Details: Hungary
GETTING THERE: There are no nonstop flights from Washington to Budapest, but most major airlines offer connecting service. United and Lufthansa, for example, offer round-trip service via Munich for about $690.
GETTING AROUND: Taxis from Budapest's Ferihegy Airport to the center of town cost about $25. Don't expect your driver to speak much English; write down the name and address of your hotel to show the driver.
In Budapest, on the Pest side of the Danube, chefs cook up an outdoor feast of such Hungarian classics as goulash.
(Jackie Spinner -- The Washington Post)
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Car rental is expensive, so we explored by train and bus. Train timetables can be found at www.elvira.hu. Our three-hour trip from Budapest to Pecs cost about $12.50 one way. Travel by bus is often just as fast or even faster. The buses are similar to Greyhound's, but be warned: There are no restrooms and bathroom stops can be several hours apart. The two-hour bus trip between Budapest and Sopron cost $13.50 one way. For bus info: www.volanbusz.hu.
WHEN TO GO: Spring and early summer are the ideal times to visit Hungary, before the July-August heat kicks in. Winters are cold, but you can avoid the crowds and take advantage of off-season prices.
WHERE TO STAY: In Budapest, we stayed at the Art O'tel (Bem Rakpart 16-19, 011-36-1-487-9487, www.parkplaza.com) on the Buda side of the river, where the funky rooms serve as miniature art galleries for Donald Sultan, an artist from Asheville, N.C. Rooms cost $170 a night double. On the livelier Pest side, the touristy and eclectic Hotel Taverna (H-1052 Budapest, Vaci u. 20, 011-36-20- 460-2134, www.taverna.hu/?levelid=26&cikkid=169) goes for $225 a night during the busy season; the charm is in the central location and private bowling alley for guests.
In Pecs, we were delighted by the Hotel Palatinus (H-7621 Pecs, Kiraly u. 5, 011-36-72-889-400, www.danubiushotels.com/hotels/hotel.php?id=34). The rooms are small and overpriced at $84 a night for a double, but you can't beat the location in the historic district. In Sopron, the innkeepers at the Hotel Wollner (Templon u. 20, 011-36-99-524-400, www.wollner.hu) charmed us with their hospitality and beautifully decorated rooms. Rates were about $100 a night double.
WHERE TO EAT: Our best meals were those we simply stumbled upon. Our favorites in Budapest were Baraka (1053 Budapest, Magyar utca 12-14), with Hungarian fusion food, with California, French and Asian influences. Entrees from $15. At the Amstel River Cafe (V Parizsi u. 6), the food is eclectic Hungarian with vegetarian entrees and sandwiches. Prices average around $8 to $10, with ample portions.
INFORMATION: Tourism Office of Budapest, www.budapestinfo.hu/en/index.html. Hungarian National Tourist Office, 212-355-0240, www.hungary.com. For online reservations and information about Budapest restaurants: Budapest Week Online, www.budapestweek.com/restaurants/index.html.
