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Details: Bulgaria
GETTING THERE: Numerous airlines operate connecting flights from Washington Dulles and BWI to Sofia, the capital. Round-trip fares begin at about $650 most of the year, but for summer months are averaging more than $1,000.
With its sand cliffs and white-and-brown homes, Melnik is one of Bulgaria's "museum towns," noted for their historical and cultural significance.
(Embassy Of Bulgaria)
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GETTING AROUND: Car rentals are available in major cities. Once off main highways, finding your way around can be daunting, but it's possible with patience. (Bulgarians tend to take rules of the road as suggestions, so defensive driving is essential.)
The country has a network of buses and trains. For train schedules and prices: www.bdz.bg/eng/index_eng.htm. Several private bus lines operate out of Sofia's Central Bus Station, next to the Central Railway Station, among them MATPU (matpu.com) and Eurolines (www.eurolines.bg). As with the roads, navigating the Web sites is an exercise in patience.
Inexperienced travelers or those in a hurry should consider packaged or guided tours. For example, you can arrange "sea and sand" packages, a tour of Bulgaria's best-preserved historic villages, hunting or outdoor adventure tours or a tour of World Heritage sites. Find tour operators and travel agents at www.batabg.org.
WHERE TO STAY:
• Sofia: The Sheraton Sofia Hotel Balkan (5 Sveta Nedelya Sq., 011-359- 2-981-6541, www.starwoodhotels.com), a luxury property in a landmark building, has a prime location and genteel Old World atmosphere. Although published rates are much higher, Web rates begin at about $155 -- a bargain.
For pleasant, clean rooms in the city center, try the Niky Hotel (16 Neofit Rilski St., 011-359-2-952-3058, www.sofiahotels.net/niky.shtml); doubles run about $55 a night.
• Plovdiv: The charming Seven Hills Hotel (6 Zhiten Pazar St., Shahbazyan Square, 011-359-0746-33200) has a perfect location at the base of the old town. Doubles begin at about $50.
• Sandanski: Although the Sandanski Resort has larger and better spa facilities, I preferred the smaller Medite Resort Spa Hotel (011-746-33200, www.hotelmedite.com), a new boutique hotel just across the road. Doubles begin at $68.
• Melnik: In the center of the village, the small, historic Despot Slav (2820 Melnik, 011-359-7437-248) has pleasant rooms and apartments. Doubles begin at $35.
• Bansko: A 200-year-old bed-and-breakfast, Dedo Pene (1 Bujnov St., 011-359-88-879-5970, www.dedopene.com) offers rustic charm. Doubles begin at $40.
You can also find houses to rent in the countryside at www.ruralbulgaria.com.
WHERE TO EAT: As a heavily rural and agricultural country, Bulgaria offers good, fresh, inexpensive food and wine, with outstanding cheeses. National dishes show Greek, Turkish and Slavic influences. I was pleased with the attentive service and well-prepared food at the Bulgarska Zavera (87 Tsar Samuil St.), a small, brick-walled restaurant in Sofia. Offering typical Bulgarian food -- including beef, chicken, lamb and fish entrees and great potato side dishes -- the restaurant has entrees ranging from $5 to $11.
In Bansko, hear live local music and sample regional and national dishes at Dedo Pene (1 Bujnov St.). Entrees range from about $8 to $18.
You'll find several small, rustic restaurants along the windy country road leading to the Rila Monastery. No addresses are available; signs simply say "Pectopaht," which means "Restaurant." Look for my favorite: Follow signs off the main north/south highway (E79) for the monastery. About 11 miles from the highway, watch on your right for a small mountaintop restaurant just over a bridge, with a sign showing a leaping trout. Entrees begin at a few dollars; deep-fried fish, the house specialty, begins at $3.50.
WINERY TOURS: Reservations are required for a tour of the DamianitzaWinery (011-359-746-300-90), just south of Sandanski and about 135 miles from Sofia. For tour information, e-mail Tzvetelina Shutova at tours@melnikwine.bg. For info on more wineries, go to www.visitbulgaria.com and click on "Wine Tourism" at left.
INFORMATION: National Tourism Promotion and Information Agency, www.bulgariatravel.org. You can request information and brochures by e-mailing the Embassy of Bulgaria at trade@bulgaria-embassy.org. The embassy's Web site, www.Bulgaria-embassy.org/Links.htm, has links to privately run tourism sites.
