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What's Cooking Vegetarian

Veggie chili galore, getting tofu crisp...

Kim O'Donnel
washingtonpost.com Staff Writer
Thursday, February 24, 2005; 12:00 PM

Calling all foodies! Join us for a vegetarian edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, O'Donnel spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Kim O'Donnel (Craig Cola - washingtonpost.com)

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The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Kim O'Donnel: A snowy hello from Washington! We won't let that stop us from huddling over our warm, toasty computers to talk all things meat-free. Right now I'm on a baba ghanouj kick. I made a bunch of (mostly) meatless stuff this week for a friend's pre-birth gathering, and so I whipped up some of that tasty roasted eggplant puree. It turned out so nice that the next night I made another batch to snack on at my leisure. I forgot how easy it is. Here's how I put it together: Slice eggplants lengthwise in half and put on baking sheet into a 400 oven. No oil or salt is necessary. Let them cook, at least an hour, until super soft and goopy. Scrape out the flesh, removing anything that seems too fibrous, and place in a food processor bowl. Add a smashed clove of garlic, a teaspoon of salt, 2 tablespoons tahini paste and juice of at least 1/2 lemon. Pulse, and then add at least an ounce of water. Blend, taste for salt and lemon, and serve pronto. It's very satisfying. Now it's your turn to share what's on the burner at the moment...

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Washington, D.C.: Kim and chatters,

Any ideas on making a delicious-tasting vegetarian base for Mexican pozole (chicken and hominy stew)? A basic vegetable stock doesn't seem rich enough and boxed "no chicken" stock doesn't seem good enough to stand on its own.

Kim O'Donnel: So does this mean you making 'mock chicken' pozole? Do tell.

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Arlington, Va.: Do you know of any vegetarian Filipino dishes? My Filipino sweetie has given up meat and I'd like to surprise him with some familiar, but vegetarian food. I have recipes for pan de sal, but all the other dishes I know of contain meat.

Kim O'Donnel: I saw your question before the show and scanned a few cookbooks, as I don't have an exclusively Filipino book at my disposal. That said, I found details for Potatoes Adobo, and I think you could do this with lots of veggies, including cauliflower, squash and green beans. Essentially, you cook a thinly sliced oinoin, some crushed garlic in oil (with a few bay leaves), til soft. Add your veggie and cook for a few minutes, for browning. Then soy sauce, white vinegar, pinch of sugar and a few ounces of vinegar. Does this appeal? And do any of you have tried-and-true Filipino recipes that can be adapted for veggies?

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Washington, D.C.: In what types of recipes is it not okay to substitute soy or rice milk for regular milk? Are there any special considerations when substituting soy/rice milk for regular milk?

Kim O'Donnel: I was hoping my book on dairy-free cooking would indicate rules for subbing soy or rice milk for cow's milk. Alas, no go. The few times I've used soy milk in baking I've followed the rules, and I must say I haven't experimented with it enough to give you a first-hand report. Let's hear from others who may have more experience cooking with soy or rice milk.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Kim-- Thanks for the Veg chats!! My brother-in-law is hosting a chili cookoff party at his house in March. I've promised to bring a vegetarian chili that will kick the carnivores' behinds! Alas, I'm usually lazy and just jazz up Fantastic Foods chili mix when I've got a chili craving.

So I'm in search of a kick a** veggie chili recipe. Any ideas? I'm on a mission to prove that excellent chili does NOT have to include meat!

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: A kick butt vegetarian chili. Sounds like an invitation to brainstorm...I love chilies made with black beans or white beans. With black beans, you could seasonal sorta Cuban style, starting with a bunch of onions, garlic if you like, diced chile, plus dried oregano and ample amounts of cumin. I might even add a smidge of cinnamon...and cocoa powder. With white beans, I'd also do onions, garlic and chili, but I'd add lots of chopped fresh rosemary and sage, plus dried cayenne. Red bell pepper would be beautiful here as well. Make your own stock, to give it even a richer flavor. Who else has ideas?

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Alexandria, Va.: How do I make tofu edible? I am a very texture centered person and tofu always seems too squishy to me.

Kim O'Donnel: Check the video I did on sauteed tofu, plus some basics on using it for the first time. I remember making a few converts with snubby noses after serving them this little number. YOu'll get a nice crisp outside...Also, you may be a candidate for roasted and/or grilled tofu. You can marinate it, then put under high heat, which gives it a crunchier exterior. Other frequent tofu cooks like to freeze tofu so that it gives a chewier texture.

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Washington, D.C.: Kim,
My husband and I were in New York last weekend and we went to Chinatown, where we discovered a terrific little veggie food store. We bought mock duck and mock chicken. Do you know if there are such resources down here, for vegetarian Chinese foods to cook with?

On a similar topic, we tried a restaurant last night that I want to recommend to other veggies: Joe's Noodle House in Rockville. They have an entire veggie menu and my husband's Chinese colleague says their Szechuan-style dishes are very authentic! We thought it was delicious. Cheap, too!

Kim O'Donnel: For those who don't know, "mock" meat is also known as wheat gluten or seitan. You may want to call My Organic Market (MOM's) and Whole Foods. You certainly can hit the Asian markets but are not guaranteed labels in English, if this is a concern. However, asking someone in the shop is always a possibility and perhaps you could even get some recommendations. There's an Asian grocery in Chinatown, a big one on H Street. But I think selection tends to be better for Asian groceries out in suburban Maryland or out near Fairfax...

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Arlington, Va.: Nothing like a snowstorm to make me want to make some soup! I'm thinking that a butternut squash soup sounds good -- how would I go about making that? Any other ideas?

Kim O'Donnel: You can boil peeled quarters, with a quartered onion or leek, a bay leaf, thyme, garlic if you like. Water is fine. A stick blender is handy here because you puree right in your pot. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne, cinnamon, honey, whatever rocks your world. The soup will come together beautifully and very quickly. It can also be pureed in food processor. Return to heat, no cream necesary. Croutons, perhaps?

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Re: stock for pozole: I can't recall the specifics, but I know that Deborah Madison's book "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" has a couple of stocks specifically for Mexican-style soups. I think the book is a worthwhile investment for every vegetarian, but you might be able to find it at the library as well.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for that tip; I've finally ordered the book after learning of so many of your suggestions coming directly from Madison.

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Boston, Mass.: Hey Kim -- I get my organic produce delivered. And this week I can't figure out what to do... What's left from this week's bounty is purple topped turnips, swiss chard, zucchini, broccoli, onion, garlic. Any good combos you can think of, not just a side o' zucc, side o' greens, side o' broc, etc.? Happy to add beans, tofu, whatever.

Kim O'Donnel: The zucchini could be boiled with onion and garlic, an apple and that turnip (or some parsnips). Puree, add some dill, taste for seasoning. This comes from my pal Anne, who says it's a standard in her kitchen. Swiss chard can roasted with garlic and white beans, some rosemary, lemon zest, salt.

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Silver Spring, Md.: I have never encountered a problem subbing soy/rice milk for regular milk, and I've done it a LOT.

Kim O'Donnel: Glad to get your first-hand report. Do you use it for baking as well as savory stuff?

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Chicago, Ill.: How do you know if an eggplant is any good before you buy it? I would love to make your baba ghanouj recipe, but the past few times I have bought eggplant it's been very seedy and mealy and not very good. Does eggplant have a season when it's better, or does it not matter?

Also, for the person who wanted to make a good veggie chili, I do mine with a mix of black beans, lima beans, and chick peas. It adds color and texture to have a variety of beans, and I'm not a big fan of kidney beans. Also, Ro-Tel canned tomatoes with green chilis add a nice kick.

Kim O'Donnel: Well, truth be told, eggplants are not in season in this part (or your part) of the country at the moment, so we have to rely on them coming from warmer places like Mexico. Smooth, shiny skin is a good indicator. Don't buy shriveled guys, with bruising. I find that if they feel heavy they are good to go. Don't buy anything that feels too soft, either.

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Arlington, Va.: Re: Veggie chili:
A friend has a great chicken chili recipe that she makes with tofu when the family wants a change of pace. I've made it several times and think substituting beans would be great, too. It calls for a pound of tomatillos, a large onion, four cloves of garlic, a 15-oz. can of hominy, 1.5 lbs. of chicken breast meat (here's where you could sub tofu or beans), 1 lb. of greens (spinach is good, but you can use whatever you like or what's freshest at the market), two cans of broth (or boxed or homemade equivalent), salt, cayenne and cumin to taste, plus fresh cilantro for garnish.

Kim O'Donnel: Terrific idea. I love the idea of chili with tomatillos. Many thanks.

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Reston, Va.: Does anyone have any experience with the Great Country Farms CSA?

Also, are there any local CSA's that offer a lot of orchard-type fruit?

Kim O'Donnel: I don't. Let's ask around. I have on my to-do list to dig up last year's article about CSAs, which typically gets updated every spring. Please don't forget to bug me about that.

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Herndon, Va.: Do you know of a good source for Vegetarian Cajun recipes? I'm tired of making the same old vegetarian jambalaya.

Kim O'Donnel: Vegetarian cajun. Hmmm. That's an interesting challenge, given all the meat eaters down in those parts. First place I just looked in index of Cresent Dragonwagon's "Passionate Vegetarian" and she's got 2 numbers that you might like: jazzman's pie, which is a riff off shepherd's pie, and baked fries. Not enough time to jot down the details now, but happy to send you notes if you e-mail me.

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Mmm... veggie chili: Hmmm... sounds like the perfect thing to brighten this snowy day! I make a very traditional Tex-Mex style chili with veggie crumbles. I start with a base of onion (1 or 2), diced chipotle pepper (1 or 2), garlic (2 or 3 cloves) and green pepper (1), cook until translucent, and then add some sliced button mushrooms (about 8 oz.) and tomato paste (a tablespoon or so). After the mixture cooks down for a bit, I add a package of veggie crumbles (Boca or Morningstar Farms) Mexican oregano, and plenty of cumin and chile powder. When the veggie crumbles are warmed through, I add about a half bottle of good beer, some tomato sauce, a couple of cans of pinto beans (I don't drain them, because I find that the liquid in the can helps the chili thicken up), and simmer until it reaches a good consistency. I also usually make it a day in advance, because it gets a lot thicker overnight.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. A lot of folks love the crumbles for this reason alone.

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Washington, D.C.: How many eggplants for the baba ghanouj recipe?

Kim O'Donnel: 2 large or 3 medium...

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Vienna, Va.: Hi Kim! Is there any way to use overripe bananas besides banana bread/cake?

Kim O'Donnel: I love them in pancakes. You can puree it with yogurt and other fruit for a smoothie...you can mix with black beans and mango...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim -- Can you explain (again, I'm sure) the best way to make yummy carmelized onions? Also, if I make a big batch, do you think they'll freeze well for later use? If not, how long will they keep in the fridge? Thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: First thing's first: I wouldn't count on a nice result after freezing a bunch of those yummy, jammy onions. In the fridge, they'd last about a week in airtight container.
Thinly sliced onions are key here. The only way I've ever done them is with butter. If some of you have use veg oil, please holler. Low heat is key. So is patience. A batch of onions will take at least an hour, maybe longer. Check on them every 10 minutes or so and good idea to stir. If they need a little jumpstart you can use a little sugar, but I'd hold off. If they start to brown, take off heat and take a breather.

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Columbia, Md.: Parm Rind -- what can I do with this other than using it like a ham bone to flavor my soups?

Chili poster -- does it matter what kind? My better half has a kick-butt Cincy style veggie (vegan) chili

Kim O'Donnel: I've always used it to flavor -- whaddya know -- chili. You can also throw it into a dish with broth, when you are braising...leeks, for example. I might use it for cauliflower gratin, braising in milk, and a rind would be great here...please share the recipe.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Kim-

This chat is perfect timing! I just got a rice cooker and used it for the first time last night to book the basmati rice for my black beans and rice and it's great! Do you have any suggestions for any other quick and easy rice-based meals I can make with my new cooker? I don't care for brown rice, but love all other types.

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I have a friend who makes the best garbanzos and brown rice in her rice cooker, with lots of lemon and garlic. Barley would be great here if you don't like brown rice. So would quinoa. Who's got thoughts?

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Vienna, Va.: Hi Kim, in your baba ghanouj recipe, you mention "tahini paste and juice." What is this and where can I get it? Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: Oh sorry about that. What I meant to say is tahini paste and juice of 1/2 lemon. Tahini paste is made from ground sesame seeds. You can buy at Middle East groceries, and you might also find at Indian stores. I think Whole Foods carry it as well. Keep in fridge after you open jar.

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Arlington, Va.: (Dan at work) Would you mind pointing us to your page about making hummous again? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Of course! Video for hummus and tabbouleh, two terrific meatless Middle East treats.

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Puff Mama: Oh dearest cooking goddess,

A few weeks ago you said that you had a recipe for spinach pie that could be made with puff pastry instead of phylo but alas, I haven't received it. Where's the love?

Okay, so I'm feeling a tad theatrical today but my tastebuds are all set for spinach pie. Can you help a sista out?

Kim O'Donnel: I did promise. I still love you; I've just been remiss. I'm making a note RIGHT NOW to bring it to work tomorrow.

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Boston, Mass.: For the tofu-challenged:

You can make the texture more firm but putting fresh tofu in between two layers of paper towels or clean cloth, and gently pressing. Repeat a few times.

My favorite (but perhaps not totally healthy) way to enjoy tofu is to put a quarter inch or so of oil in a skillet, and brown the tofu blocks on all sides. Serve hot from the pan with soy sauce. This is best will freshly opened tofu.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, good point about draining the tofu. I even do it for up to an hour to release the water. I love tofu sauteed with lots of ginger, scallions and soy as you say...

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Laurel, Md.: Re: mock duck and mock chicken

These are also made of seasoned soymilk sheets. I believe that Vegetable Garden makes them and sells them at places like MOMs and Roots (in Clarksville).

I second the recommendation of Joe's Noodle House, if for nothing else than their "Hot and Spicy Mung Bean Jello". It's not jello, but mung bean noodle in a rich, hot, spicy, sauce.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice tidbits! I've not had the seasoned soymilk sheets, only heard about them.

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A different Variety of Baba Ghanouj: Bake the eggplant (large) at 400 degrees, 20 minutes on each side.
Take out pulp right away.
Mash with a fork -- you do not want it thoroughly blended.
Add Salt, Pepper, 1 Garlic clove, Tahini (about 1/3 cup).
Add homemade yogurt (or whole milk Smithfield's yogurt) about 1/3 cup or to taste.
Mix all together -- taste to see if you need to add in more of the ingredients.
Pour onto a flat plate.
Pour some olive oil around the dip, first by making a circular indentation around the dip for the olive oil to sit. (does this make sense?)
This variety is called in Arabic, In'tebell.

Kim O'Donnel: thanks. There's always room for variety here.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Yup, I've used soy milk (and egg replacer, too) with baking. I make cornbread a lot that way.

As far as fats go, I've experimented with vegan margarine & veggie shortening instead of butter. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. To wit: cookies and pies you can do with shortening, but not margarine. They're both disasters with homemade brownies.

Kim O'Donnel: Useful notes, Silver. Thanks.

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Takoma, D.C. re: Pozole: Roasting carrots, parsnips, leeks and fennel would provide a good base for a vege stock for pozole. I'd probably puree to get it nice and thick, toss in can of good tomatoes and maybe add chickpeas and corn as well as the hominy.

P.S. Does anyone know where to find yellow hominy? Safeway used to carry, but now has only white.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent tips, Takoma. Have you checked any of the Latin groceries for yellow hominy?

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Bananas: Probably not what the banana lady is looking for, but I stuff overripe bananas into my dog's Kong treat and freeze it -- banana popsicle for the dog. Better than throwing them away, right?

Kim O'Donnel: Woof woof.

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Vienna, Va.: Thanks to WP for the travelling veg article on Sunday. FWIW, I have found some of the most original veg cuisine in sub-saharan Africa. Worst place for me? Paris. Also in response -- our experience on a Royal Caribbean cruise this fall was the opposite -- we had no problems getting served veg. In fact, the veg dishes were better than the meat ones, so soon our whole table was ordering veg!

washingtonpost.com: Would You Eat This Pig?, (Post, Feb. 20)

Kim O'Donnel: As the person who works directly with the Travel section online, I'll make sure they hear your praise. Interesting you mention Africa as a good place for veg cuisine. I had some great veggie stuff in Uganda. I am headed to Zambia soon and know that the situation will not be as veg friendly.

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Snowy Dupont, Washington, D.C.: Veg chili: lots of mushrooms! Ports are an obvious choice, and buttons and criminis work well. But also go for some of the odd ones. Ferial Welsh (the mushroom lady at the Arlington Farmer's Market -- open year-round!) recommends wood ears for interesting texture, odds and ends of whatever you have around for flavor.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, mushroom chili is a fab idea. And the mushroom lady --well, she's tops in my books. Everyone should go and visit her at least once. Thanks for this add-on.

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Chevy Chase, Md.: I have had great luck with freezing carmelized onions. I keep them around to throw into pasta or use as pizza topping. Just store in an air tight container and defrost in the fridge when needed!

Kim O'Donnel: Here's a report on freezing caramelized onions. Thanks for sharing; I am so reluctant to freeze most stuff that my answers err on the 'no' side.

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Montreal, Quebec, Canada: Re: Veggie Chili, I have a great recipe for sweet potato/black bean chili. Cube 2 medium sweet potatoes and cook them up with diced onion, garlic, tomatoes, peppers (sweet and hot), a couple cans of black beans, plus oregano, cumin, chili powder, cayenne, etc. and stock or water. It's not as heavy as super-beany chili, and sweet potatoes are the best thing ever.

Speaking of which, if I'm roasting sweet potatoes along with other vegetables, should I put the sweet potatoes in first to give them a headstart?

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: A most excellent idea. Sweet potatoes rock my world too, Montreal.

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Alexandria, Va.: Questions about your previous responses to posters. How much water for the butternut squash soup and the zuchini/turnip mixture? Can I use veggie broth instead? Also, for the Zukes, is it supposed to be soupy or more like mashed potatoes? Thank you.

Kim O'Donnel: Enough water to barely cover the squash, same with zuke/turnip. I find that if you use that as a rule with soups, you'll see a less watery result. You can always add more water but it's hard to take it away. Think silky puree for the zuke mixture.

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Tofu Texture: I have one word for getting great tofu texture: wok! Use a wok -- it's astonishing and uses very little oil.

Kim O'Donnel: Sometimes the simplest things are the best. Cheers.

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Fairfax, Va.: I'm a vegetarian (will eat dairy and eggs), and my boyfriend is a meat eater who dislikes tofu and lots of veggies (mushrooms, peppers, onions). We're having such a tough time coming up with recipes we can make together! I don't mind making the same base for a meal and having him use chicken and me use eggplant or tofu, but it's getting tough making two different meals a night. Any suggestions?

Kim O'Donnel: Everyone likes a good, flavorful veggie stirfry, even the heartiest of meat eaters. I also think portobello mushrooms, with cheese and roasted red peppers are hard to pass up for a carnivore. Sweet potatoes are hearty fare, especially if teamed up with garlic and chilies. If you eat eggs, a frittata is a good idea, and see if he'll eat some soy sausage for kicks. Burritos or quesadillas might work for you guys; do them with black beans, and he can add meat if he wants. Veggie kebabs for you, meaty kebabs for him.

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Washington, D.C.: Note on soy milk/ rice milk for baking etc. -- recipes which rely on the protein in regular milk for body or binding will not turn out so well with rice milk, which is relatively low protein. Soy milk is a better choice for many baked goods. (or use rice milk/water and substitute soy/chick pea flour for part of the flour)

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks so much. Baking is very tricky, and you raise an excellent point about the protein (or lack thereof) in rice milk.

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Takoma RE: Pozole: Oh, duh, and of course the roasted poblanos!;

Kim O'Donnel: Roasted poblanos is an excellent idea...chipotle chiles in adobo are also killer...

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Veggie Chili: Saute onion, garlic and mushrooms in some olive oil in the bottom of your pot. Add in canned whole tomatoes, black olives and a couple beans of your choosing (I like black beans, kidney beans, and pinto or romano beans.) Drop in a small amount of very dark chocolate, some chili powder and a little cinamon and let cook until nice and thick. I like to serve this over brown rice, topped with something (cashews, green onions, guacamole, depends on what I have on hand.)

Kim O'Donnel: We've gotten a wonderful variety of veggie chili options today. I love this!

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College Park, Md.: Hi Kim,
Can you suggest some easy vegetarian Thai dishes? What goes into the curry paste?

For the person trying to make chili, I would suggest boiling beans than using canned. The preservative used in the canned stuff to protect the color gives a peculiar smell that is not there if you boil beans yourself.

Thanks for your help.

Kim O'Donnel: Traditionally Thai curry paste contains dried shrimp paste as well as fish sauce. I will have to look around for some variations this week. Please get in touch.

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Kim O'Donnel: Hey, it's time to run already. Thanks for the keeper veggie chili recipes. So we'll do this again last Thursday of next month, which is March 31. By then, the bulbs will be starting to show, and we'll start to have more choices from the farms. Take care, and stay warm. Peace.

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