What's Cooking

Dicing tomatoes, white truffle oil, making collards...

Kim O'Donnel (Craig Cola - washingtonpost.com)

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Get sucked in by Kim's narrated slide show on making lollipops.

The transcript follows.

Get a taste of the season with What's Cooking This Fall, Kim's latest video series.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Kim O'Donnel: Happy spring indeed, ladies and gents. Hope you're enjoying the flowery weather as much as I am. Such great sunsets, too! Nice with a glass of wine.
I was at Arlington Courthouse farm market this weekend and came across a new arrival there -- hydroponic (no soil) greens, herbs and lettuces from Endless Summer Harvest, based in Loudoun County, Va. Sold with roots intact, they are gorgeous, almost like works of art. I've not yet prepared the bok choy, but the salad mix was fantastic. It was crisp, alive with flavor. I found myself wanting to eat more -- it was that good. Comes with a caveat -- it's expensive, at least a dollar more than other mixed green bags at farm markets. But if I'm going to eat the entire bag and not waste, then I say it's money well spent.

Other news: Fava beans (aka broadbeans) are coming 'round the corner, so keep your eyes peeled. I plan to do some kind of puree thing as soon as I can get my hands on them. Favas, I'm told, are a good source of folate (good if you're trying to or are already pregnant), a hefty dose of protein, plus lots of minerals.

Next Thursday, April 28, will be this month's vegetarian hour...I'll share some new meat-free titles I've come across, plus recent experiments in the kitchen. Anyway, let's get going...

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Budd Lake, NJ: Kim,
What is the best way to dice a tomato? I always end up with small, large and mushed pieces. Look forward to your chats every week!;

Kim O'Donnel: Budd Lake (where is Budd Lake? do tell), I like to dice a tomato with a serrated knife. I also will remove seeds and then cut from inside, rather than skin side. They are buggers to dice, I agree.

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Wanted - Ramps in DC!;!;!;!;: Hi Kim,

Any idea who has ramps in DC? I've been begging the Dupont Farmer's market farms for ages and no luck. Any idea where I could find them?

Thanks!;!;!;

Kim O'Donnel: In its weekly e-mail about 2 weeks ago, Dupont Farm market announced ramps, so I went over to check them out. Unfortunately, a no-show. As I mentioned last week, there was a big bash in West Virginia last weekend celebrating the wild leek, but alas, I've not seen them locally, either. Anyone?

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Rockville, MD : Hi, Kim--Thanks for the great chats!;

This is a follow-up to the discussion of pizza making last week. I have had a number of pizzas stick to my peel as I tried to load them into the oven (no matter how well I floured and cornmealed the peel), so I've started assembling them on parchment paper. No sticking, and you still get the benefit of the HOT baking stone. (I always preheat to 500 for at least a half-hour.)

I'd like to recommend my pizza bible: American Pie by Peter Reinhart. The first half of the book is kind of a travelogue as he searches for the perfect pie, while the second half contains very detailed directions and tips for making good pizza at home. The crust recipes are great, as are the topping ideas. Great book!;

Finally, I always make more pizza dough than I need and "half-bake" some shells to go in the freezer. Makes it very easy to quickly pull together a pizza on a weeknight. My kids love this!;

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your tidbits, Rockville. I love Peter Reinhart; his bread book is terrific.

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Rockville, MD: Hi Kim!; Love the chats!; I am trying to cut down on cheese but can't seem to do it...I just love the taste, texture, you name it!; Do you know of any substitute that would give the same consistency, or, potentially, flavor of cheese? (Not including low fat cheese themselves). I'm at a loss!; Thanks!;!;

Kim O'Donnel: Rockville, there are lower-fat cheeses, and I don't mean reduced-fat varieties. For example, brie is one of the tops in fat...you could explore varieties such as parmigiano, Edam, feta and I think, even some goat cheeses are lower. This is something I need to take up with Sally Squires this week. Let me check with her.

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Dulse, Seaweed: Hi Kim,
I found a tasty looking recipe for a salad, which lists one of its ingredients as dulse (A red seaweed hailing from the British Isles. It is coarse-textured, with a pungent, briny flavor.) I was wondering for you or any of the chow hounds might know where I might find this in the DC area. Metro accessible is especially appreciated!;

Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: My first thought for seaweed is Asian groceries, but most that I'm familiar with are in Virginia, often not Metro-accessible. Not sure if Whole Foods carries it...Also might give a call to My Organic Market (MOMs).

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Alexandria, VA: I've had problems with getting pizza off the peel and onto the hot baking stone too. I tried the parchment paper route but I noticed that some brands only allow you to go up to 400 degrees. So I use aluminum foil instead (since I don't trust my old oven to be quite accurate with temperatures and don't want to burn the place down because of a piece of parchment paper).

Kim O'Donnel: Ah, good point. Thanks for raising. Corn meal sprinkled on work surface helps me in transporting, fyi.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim, spring makes me want to try all that's fresh for the season... I wanted to share the idea of Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)--it's like having the farmer's market come to you! Many small farms sell "shares" of the season's harvest directly to families and individuals. For an annual fee, you get a weekly share of whatever's in season, and some farms even sell half-shares for singles or couples who don't need quite as much.

I subscribe to a CSA for the first time last year and it was so much fun to discover what I get to cook with each week. Last year we had some combination of squash, lettuce, spinach, chard, eggplant, onions, garlic, broccoli, tomatoes, herbs, melons and more exotic stuff from June well into October. Delivery and/or pick-up options vary for each grower, but the Post recently listed a number of local CSA farms--your readers can read the article at http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A62488-2005Mar1.html !

Kim O'Donnel: You're preaching to the choir here, Arlington. If you're home enough to cook all the stuff, a CSA arrangement is a great option for fresh fruit and veg.

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Fairfax, VA: A wonderful friend gave me the gift of white truffle oil. Does anyone out there have good ideas of how I can use it to best advantage?

Kim O'Donnel: White truffle oil should not be heated like other oils; it's best used just before serving. It works nicely on mixed greens, or on top of risotto, spritzed on top of sauteed mushrooms...with hunks of hard cheese...

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Reston, VA: Kim, I am distraught. Please help!; What has happened to Fuji apples. The quality of them lately has been down right terrible. What's a girl to do?

Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Reston, you can hit your local farm market for return of last fall's crop of apples, but usually it's late-season apples that keep until spring for a return appearance at market. I wouldn't trust consistency of apples in supermarkets at this time of year, as it's not apple season. You may have to wait until late summer/early fall for your beloved.

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About CSAs....: Any recommends from Kim or the chatters? I had bad experience last year.

Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: A reader just posted her praise for CSAs. Perhaps she'll share the name of the farm she worked with???

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New York, NY : Cheese find!; I never understood how my roommate could go through so much cheese and not gain an ounce, but I discovered Laughing Cow. They're wrapped wedges of creamy cheese that come in a light variety, too -- no loss of flavor. They have garlic and herb, if you're craving a boursin-like flavor, and others. It's SO delicious, and I think it's only 50 calories a wedge, which fills up about 7 crackers for me.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice find indeed, New York! I hope it's available in these parts...

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Washington, D.C.: Any ideas for collards? I have two bunches that need to be used up tonight. I've previously tried your roasting methods, but since collards are pretty strong, it didn't come out that great (worked great on kale and mizuna thought!). Any ideas? Thanks - Marty

Kim O'Donnel: Marty: I think collards need braising. I like to cook some onions in a pot with some oil, even some chopped fresh chili. If you eat bacon, this would be the time to add it so it can crisp up. If not, no biggie. Once veg is soft, add chopped collards and coat with oil, etc. Add some white wine, add stock, just enough to barely cover the greens. Now, I like chicken stock in this case, but add whatever works for you. It all comes out great. Bring up to a boil, then turn down heat, let simmer, covered, until desired tenderness. Now you can salt and pepper the collards.

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White truffle oil: Also drizzle a little bit on your scrambled eggs, or mashed potatoes...mmm mmmmm!;!;!;!;

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, great ideas. Thanks for adding on...

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RE: Budd Lake, NJ: Thanks for the tomato tip!; Never tried slicing from the inside out. We are located in northwest NJ, Morris County.

Kim O'Donnel: And thanks for letting us know where you dice your tomatoes...

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Washington, D.C. : Kim,

Submitting early due to meeting - I would prefer to tune in real-time!;

I purchased on an impulse a London Broil roast (according to the label). I am now questioning how to prepare it. I was going to sear it, then put it in a 300 degree oven with some red wine, onions, (leeks?), and mushrooms for 90 minutes or so. Do I also need stock? And should I wait for the mushrooms until the last 30 minutes or so?

Thanks so much!;

Kim O'Donnel: London broil is flank steak, which comes from lower hindside of the cow; it's long, thin and has a long grain. You can marinate and cook either slowly or quickly. If doing the latter, make sure you slice very thin against the grain. Skirt and hangar steak are good subs, fyi.
Your thoughts for braising are on target -- you can mix stock with that red wine, or you can add water too. Tomatoes would be good here as well. Yes, I agree about the timing of the shrooms. Good call.

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Laughing Cow cheese: Being raised in France, I grew up on that stuff and am pleasantly amused that it has become a main topic of discussion on Sally Squires' Lean Plate chat. It is available in about all stores in the area: Giant, Harris Teeter, Costco. By the way, I grew up eating cheese, just like all of my French compatriots, and we don't have a weight problem. I'm convinced it's the snacking and lack of exercise that are to blame.

Kim O'Donnel: As you know, this is the most weight-obsessed country and also the most obese. Thanks for your thoughts -- stuff worth thinking about...

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Laurel, MD: Hi Kim. I recently took a cake decorating class. The recipe for icing calls for vanilla extract which contains alcohol. Alcohol is prohibited in my religion. Do you know if alcohol-free vanilla extract is available? Or if there is a substitute? Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, there is vanilla flavoring without the alcohol...it tastes less vanilla-y, but it's available. Depending on your recipes, one thing to do is to steep vanilla bean in milk, so that you have a wonderful vanilla infusion, but of course, depends on your recipe...

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Lo Fat Cheese: You can make great yogurt cheese by draining yogurt in a cheese cloth in the fridge over night. Mix up with herbs and enjoy.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, you can. Excellent idea. And silken tofu, pureed and mixed with herbs, is a pretty cool way to eat "cheese."

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Washington, DC: Hi Kim & Chatters,

I'm having a dinner party and looking for hors d'ouevres suggestions. The meal is cucumber/yogurt salad, roghan josh, and coconut biscotti for dessert. I was thinking of having cut up pitas with some dips for munching beforehand. Probably hummus, any other ideas?

Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: I'm a big fan of bean purees -- as I mentioned earlier, I'm thinking of doing one this week with fava beans, which you can season with lemon, olive oil, dill, garlic, onion...would be lovely. You can also do a white bean puree, which I've talked about in past, with rosemary, cayenne, garlic, olive oil, and then throw in a roasted red pepper for splash of color and flavor dimension.

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Washington, DC: Hi Kim - I know you've covered this before, but I've forgotten: What's the best way to make the mashed potatoes when they have to be done ahead of time? Boil & mash then just refrigerate & nuke before serving? Thank you!;

Kim O'Donnel: Boil and mash, and season, as if you were serving immediately. Cool, refrigeate, and reheat...yes. Taste for seasoning, to make sure.

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Laughing Cow: Just wanted to share that Laughing Cow was the only pasturized cheese that I could find while travelling in West Africa. While I don't know that I would ever buy it again (having eaten enough there...), the all-time best meal of my life was Laughing Cow, sandy flat bread and canned tuna -- it was a welcome break from my last fifteen meals of rice with dried fish and mustard sauce. Don't even talk to me about West African mustard...it's black and the consistency of clay and made from fermented soybean and ashes, among other things. But then fifteen meals of anything will make you tired.

Kim O'Donnel: I love this story. Funny what you find on the shelves of supermarkets on the other side of the world. I had fun last month in Zambia exploring the shelves of the local Shop-Rite, looking for vittles.

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Arlington, VA: Re: Vanilla Trader Joe's has several varieties of alcohol-free vanilla (in glycerin I believe) that are great and cheap!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for this!

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Wilmington, DE: For the pizza threads - I use a pizza stone religiously and have found that if you dust the peel (wood paddle) liberally with flour and some corn meal, the pizza/focacia will slide off easily as long as you don't go overboard and weigh it down with a lot of toppings.

And if people are worried about hurting the pizza stone - mine has been very hardy - even if toppings melt and burn on to it, it doesn't affect its performance as long as you preheat it very hot (although I doesn't look as pretty).

I'd also recommend the pre-bagged dough at Trader Joe's - under $2 will get enough for 2 pizzas and is cheap enough to practice with.

Kim O'Donnel: Hey Wilmington, this is a continuation from last week, when some readers sang the praises of the peel/stone and others did not...thanks for your report.

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Flank steak ideas: Another way to try flank steak is to marinate overnight in a mixture of soy sauce & honey, with a dose of garlic powder (to your taste), then grill, let it rest, and slice against the grain. Cold leftovers make for a tasty steak salad or steak sandwich, too!; Or in ramen noodle soup, oh the possibilities...

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, flank loves marinade. Me, I'm partial to lime, soy, garlic, a touch of sesame oil, then serving it with lots of fresh cilantro.

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Hey Kim-
Just wanted to share a recipe idea that made me realize what a difference fresh ricotta can make (and ricotta is low in fat!).

I picked up some spinach and fresh ricotta from the farmer's market last Sunday and sauteed the spinach with some garlic, olive oil, red pepper flakes and ham. I also threw in some turkey bacon since it was lying around in the fridge. I tossed the spinach with some hot pasta and the ricotta. Topped it off with a little parmesan...mmmm!

The ricotta was so good, I had to stop myself from eating it straight from the tub. I'll never buy the supermarket stuff again!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for sharing, Dupont. It's little finds like this that truly do make a difference in one's cooking. I'm glad your experience has given you new appreciation.

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Mashed potato-land: How far in advance is it okay to make the mashed pots, you think? Is a day ahead okay? 2 days? Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: I would not do it more than one day in advance...

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Silver Spring: Re: Mashed Potatoes
Depending on how long in advance they need to be made, they can also be held on the stove very successfully for 30-40 mins in a heavy pot, with the lid on, over extremely low heat. Or in the top of a double-boiler or a bowl set over a pot of hot water - this way works for a couple of hours - and I think tastes better than re-heating.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, this is a great way to reheat spuds. Thanks for sharing.

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Loney Hearts Club: Hi Kim,
Thanks for the show - I think you are great. I was wondering if you have any suggestions for a special (vegetarian) dinner that I can cook/prepare and then drive an hour to share. My darling is out of town on business and in desperate need of fresh food that doesn't require a microwave or fridge - as his hotel has neither.

Much appreciated!;

Kim O'Donnel: Lonely heart, doesn't sound like you're a truly lonely heart, just lonely for your sweetie...how nice of you to make a special delivery. I'd do a mezze kind of thing...some hummus, tabbouleh, baba ghanouj, feta and olives...all of this could be transported easily and you two lovebirds can a picnic on the hotel room floor. You can make the salads, then while picking up some pita, buy some olives and feta. A nice honeyed/olive oil cake thing would round things out beautifully. Holler if you want details.

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Laughing cow: You people do realize that Laughing Cow is no more cheese than Velveeta is, right? It's a low-fat cheese that's blended up with milk & milk solids & emulsifiers, and then extruded into those little wedges. If you need it to drop your calorie count, so be it, but don't that you're getting REAL cheese flavor.

Kim O'Donnel: You know, I was wondering about this. I kept confusing it with Cowgirl brand cheese and so was confused...thanks for chiming in.

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The Collard guy in Washington, DC....: Thanks - braising with chicken stock sounds great. I have some okra as well, so I think I will add that too. I will let you know how it comes out!;

The cooking time for both should be around the same?

Kim O'Donnel: About an hour is what you need...please do let me know...

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Washington, DC: Hi Kim, I'm posting very early since a work meeting will keep me from joining you live today. But I really hope you can get to my question. I'm cooking for 18 people on Saturday night, making a prime rib roast. How many lbs. do I need (I don't want much if any leftover). Thanks so much!; Costco here I come!;

Kim O'Donnel: I would estimate about 1 pound per person -- and that includes the bones...if you get boneless, you can lower, about 1/2 pound per person...

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: I'm a bit lemon crazy these days, putting it in and on everything. But I have yet to really make a lemon pasta that has enough zing. I like to make it to toss with veggies or fish. Many recipes I see make a cream-based lemon sauce or a lemon-infused butter sauce. Any way to do this without making it heavy and fatty? Or is butter the answer to all good dishes?

Kim O'Donnel: Are you using lemon zest, aka the rind without the white pithy stuff? I find this makes all the difference in lemony dishes...I've done a pasta number with gremolata, an Italian term for chopped fresh parsley, garlic and lemon zest, with olive oil and parm. NO cream whatsover. A little lemon juice, too.

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About that honey/olive oil cake?!;?!;?!;: A recipe would be greatly appreciated

Kim O'Donnel: Send me an e-mail. I have to dig it up.

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Holding Potatoes: Just wanted to note that in my experience, mashed potatoes held on the stove with the cover completely on become watery from the trapped steam. A slightly cocked lid prevends this, but keeps them warm!;

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. More useful tips for reheating mashed...

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Washington, DC: Greetings!; I was thinking of making meringue shells for dessert this weekend, but would need to make them ahead of time. Any idea how well those things will store (& the best way to store)? In the past, they've gotten really soft & chewy after a while. Thanks for your advice!;

Kim O'Donnel: Meringue stores best in air-tight plastic containers. Will last a few days, enough time for your soiree...and I'd keep parchment in between layers as well...

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RE Dulse Seaweed: There is a Yes!; Organic Market (202-546-9850)on Pennsylvania Ave., S.E. (between 6th & 7th Sts.) that carries dulse. It is located one block from the Eastern Market subway stop.

Kim O'Donnel: Fantastic! Thanks for sharing your find.

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Last minute question if you have a sec- I've had sumac on some amazing salads in a couple of mediterranean places lately. Is it hard to find or expensive? What else can I do with it other than sprinkle on salads? I love the flavor!

Kim O'Donnel: I've seen it at Lebanese Taverna market in Arlington as well as Mediterranean Bakery in Alexandria. Don't recall it being expensive. It's used a lot on top of pita, then grilled...is also nice in rice pilaf...

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Adams-Mo: Kim, I'm busting with excitement: I just got my very first food processor. But while I'm chomping at the bit to start making my own cole slaw and mayo, I don't really know what else to make with it. Any ideas for neat ways to use my new toy? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Hummus is a great dish for a beginner. Gazpacho, when summer veg come in...green sauces for fish, meat...almost anything but boiled potates, which will turn into wallpaper paste...

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Lemon Pasta:: 1 pound spaghetti
2/3 cup olive oil
2/3 cup grated Parmesan
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (about 3 lemons)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1/3 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, stirring occasionally, about 8 - 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the oil, Parmesan, and lemon juice in a large bowl to blend. Drain the pasta, reserve about 1 cup of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with the lemon sauce. Add the reserved cooking liquid, about 1/4 cup at a time, as needed to moisten. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with lemon zest and chopped basil.

Got this recipe from the Food Network website and it's really good.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for following up...this is a real easy number that can make your life nice...

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Kim O'Donnel: Already time to go. Thanks as always for your tasty morsels. Don't forget to go outside and sniff up the flowers -- they're gone before you know it! Til next.

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