What's Cooking

What to do with that ricer, how to dump old, rancid oil...

Kim O'Donnel (Craig Cola - washingtonpost.com)

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Get sucked in by Kim's narrated slide show on making lollipops.

The transcript follows.

Get a taste of the season with What's Cooking This Fall, Kim's latest video series.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Kim O'Donnel: Hi ho, all, and say whatcha got on the burner today? It would be boring to say that I'm looking forward to spring, but baby I sure am. Tomorrow's Food section has an updated list of CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture) programs, so be sure to check that and get subscribed! This is one sure way to get into the groove of spring. A programming note: I will be offline for the next two weeks, out and about in the wild blue yonder. Back with you on Tuesday, March 22. For now, let's hear from you...

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim I have a recipe for ginger sweet potato muffins that I'd like to make for a brunch I'm attending on Sunday. The original recipe uses a standard-sized muffin tin, but I want to use my new mini muffin tin. The original recipe calls for a baking time of 15-20 minutes in a 375 degree oven. Should I alter the baking time or temp for the smaller muffins? Also, the original recipe calls for using muffin cups sprayed with cooking spray. Are they really necessary? Can't I just spray the muffin tins themselves? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: You shouldn't adjust temp but may have to adjust cooking time. I'd check on things after 7 minutes, then after 3 minutes. I know, all that opening of the oven isn't good for things that are rising, but this may be the only way to test out such an adjustment. Spraying the muffin liners doesn't seem to be necessary, but I would spray the muffin pan.

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Rockville, MD: Hi Kim,
Any tips for fried chicken? I've never made it
before, but I'm going to give it a try next week.
Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: A while back, I did a video on fried chicken that you may find of use. I am partial to soaking the chicken in buttermilk. A cast-iron skillet is great, but a heavy-bottom deepish pan also works.

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Washington DC: Kim, please help!; I followed your tofu recipe (from the video ) last week -- drained tofy for an hour, marinaded another hour, stir-fried in canola oil for about 10 minutes... but the result was the same as ever: spongy, chewy tofu. What did I do wrong? I'm despairing of ever getting that golden crispy outside like you find in good Chinese restaraunts...

Kim O'Donnel: Well, the really crispy stuff is usually deep fried, dear. But...sauteeing it in a hot pan, as I describe in the video will yield a fairly crispy result on the outside -- but saute crispy, not deep-fry crispy. Also, dry tofu before it hits the pan.

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Washington, D.C.: All the talk of tofu in last week's chat made me wonder how long fresh tofu lasts in the fridge? What is the best way to store it? I've seen in in the little box packages, but once you open that box and have just the block of tofu, how fast do you need to use it up?

Kim O'Donnel: It doesn't last long once you open it up. Keep in a container, in fresh water. You've got to change the water every day, or every other day. It will keep for about five days after opening.

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Nashville, TN: Hi Kim, Thanks to you, I am loving making lollipops. I tried to use water infused with lavender the other day to make lavender lollipops, but alas the beautiful color and flavor faded as the temperature rose. So I was thinking of adding lavender oil at the end; is all lavender oil food grade? And does anyone know of any good sources? Thanks so very much

Kim O'Donnel: Lavender oil is colorless, so that won't be the answer. And I don't think it's food grade. Plus, it's not the oils that will give it color, but food coloring or things that have strong natural pigments like pomegranate syrup. But you also mention that the flavor faded too. One thing you can try is mixing the lavender with something like earl gray tea, which definitely keeps its flavor...mint oil is great with lavender, as is lemon...

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Alexandria, Va.: Hey Kim, I just bought an immersion blender, hopefully for making soups, sauces etc. I'd be interested in knowing any tricks or techniques for proper usage ?

Kim O'Donnel: The beauty of the immersion/stick blender is that it's practically moron proof. Stick that baby in the pot or bowl of stuff you want to puree and you're golden. One thing to keep in mind, tho: Careful when pureeing hot liquids, so stick blender in liquid, then turn it on, and go slowly so you can minimize spattering and getting burned.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi, Kim- My husband has been wanting to make homemade gnocchi for a couple of weeks. All the recipes seem to require a potato ricer, which we don't have. Is there any way to make them without the ricer, or should we just suck it up and go get another gadget for our (already crowded) kitchen? Thanks to you and all the rest of the posters for the great chats!

Kim O'Donnel: Earlier this year, there was a fun piece in NYT Food section about shortcuts for things like gnocchi. I don't have story handy, but the dough, which was a variation of traditional gnocchi dough, allowed you to tear off bits and throw into pot. A ricer is handy, tho; in fact, that or a food mill is at top of my list.

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RE Ginger Sweet Potato Muffins: Sounds really good. Would you please share the recipe?

Kim O'Donnel: Calling sweet potato muffin reader...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim - I submitted last week, asking about carmelized onions -- thanks! As follow-up, approx how much butter per onion, and does it matter if I use a regular or non-stick pan?

Kim O'Donnel: I would use something along lines of a cast-iron skillet and if not, then a heavy regular sticky pan. Butter is to taste, but I'd probably use approximately 1 tablespoon butter per onion. Yes, it's a lot of butter.

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Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C.: Thank you for your delightful chats, as always! Maybe you will know about homemade soup shelf life. I made homemade split pea soup 2 weeks ago. I quadruppled the recipe, and have kept it frozen since I made it. I was wondering how long it can be kept frozen and then eaten without the fresh herbs and vegtables lessening in flavor/freshness. I am hoping to defrost some tonight, and in the future. Thank you for any insight!

Kim O'Donnel: If it's without cream or any kind of dairy, the soup should thaw nicely. YOu may want to chop up some fresh herbs to put on top after heating for a refresher, and you may find you need to adjust salt as well.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi, Kim - I have an odd question: My boyfriend and I recently moved in together, and so there has been a merging of kitchen items. I've noticed that some of the things from his cabinets are of a certain vintage, and I'm not talking about wine here! What to do with a huge, completely full bottle of corn oil that is two years old?? I assume the date wouldn't be on there if it were still safe to use. What is the best way to dispose of this? Down the sink? At an auto repair shop?? Yuck.

Kim O'Donnel: Ah, the vintage spices, condiments and oils. The stuff is perishable, but it's not like tossing motor oil...so just put stuff in trash bag, and take outside. If it's a huge container of oil, I wouldn't put it down the sink. And good for you on cleaning out the pantry!

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Washington, DC: Hi Kim - I can't seem to get away from Ricers in food conversations lately, but the thing is I have never heard of one or know what it does!; (I know, lame not to ask - but it seems as common as a whisk to some people and feel silly for not knowing) Can you please explain?

Kim O'Donnel: It's a hand-operated tool, which is why I think a lot of people are not as familiar with it. Most of us rely on electrical kitchen gadgets. It looks like a big ole garlic press, and pushes food through holes to give it a different texture. Don't feel silly for not knowing. I didn't know about it until I started working in a restaurant.

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Sushi safety?: We took my 20 month old daugher to a Japanese restaurant the other night and she was begging to try the sushi (she's a good eater - basically if we're eating it, she's in too). We let her eat all of the cooked stuff (like eel) and all of the veggies, but do you know when it would be safe for her to eat the raw fish?

Kim O'Donnel: Gosh, this sounds like a question for Sally Squires, who's online at 1. She's got all the goods on nutrition and such...

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Washington, DC: Hi Kim!; I need to prepare some kind of vegetarian pasta dish for tonight's book club at my house. It can be hot but has to be relatively fast because I'm not getting home until about an hour before everyone gets there!; Help!;

Kim O'Donnel: Can you get to the store before heading home? I'm thinking sauteed onions, mushroooms, goat cheese and parsley over short pasta....is this of interest? This can be whipped up in about 40 minutes.

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Re: Arlington's Aged Oil: She could always dump the oil down the sink (or in the car engine) and recycle the glass or plastic bottle, too!;

Kim O'Donnel: Recycling is good...

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Fried Chicken: Being from GA, I LOVE traditional fried chicken, but a new favorite at my house is to crush bbq potato chips up as the breading (instead of cornmeal).

Pound chicken breast
dip in egg/milk mixture
dip in crushed potato chips (finely crushed)

fry in pan as normal.

this is SO good, if VERY unhealthy!

Kim O'Donnel: Interesting...I'd like some mustard with this, too...

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Washington, DC: Hi Kim, I have some leftover, cooked pork tenderloin at home, which I am getting pretty sick of. Do you have any suggestions for an intersting dish that i could throw it in to use up the rest of the leftovers? It was pretty simply prepared, so I think that it could go into just about anything. Thanks! I can go out and get just about any item at the supermarket.

Kim O'Donnel: I'd make a Asian noodle-y thing, methinks...Slice thinly your meat, set aside. Cook some ginger, garlic, chilies, and saute some Asian greens, maybe bok choy or Chinese broccoli...add soy sauce or black bean garlic sauce or hoisin, your choice....a little water, too...add your meat at end to coat. In meantime, cook up some Asian noodles. When done, rinse under cold water, drain, then add to your mix. Add some chopped fresh cilantro, squeeze of lime. Mix well and have a lovely moment.

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Ginger Sweet Potato Muffins: Here's the recipe:

Ingredients
1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 cup mashed baked sweet potato, cooled
1/2 cup fat-free milk, at room temperature
2 large eggs, at room temperature, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons canola oil
1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup to 1/3 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger

Instructions
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Lightly coat twelve 2-5/8 by 1-1/8-inch (about 3-ounce) muffin cups with nonstick vegetable cooking spray.

In a large bowl, stir together flour, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and ground ginger. In another bowl, stir together sweet potato, milk, eggs, oil and vanilla, until blended. Make a well in center of dry ingredients; add milk mixture and stir just to combine. Stir in crystallized ginger.

Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in center of one muffin comes out clean. Remove muffin pans to wire rack. Cool for 5 minutes before removing muffins from cups; finish cooling on rack. Serve warm, or cool completely and store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Nutrition information per muffin: 168 calories, 28 grams carbohydrate, 3 grams protein, 4 grams fat, 35 milligrams cholesterol, 173 milligrams sodium.

Yield: about 12 muffins

Kim O'Donnel: Very nice. Thanks much.

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Potato Ricers: I lamely use mine for one exclusive purpose -ricing potatoes to make a south american filled potato "dumpling." What else can ricers be used for?

Kim O'Donnel: Making gnocchi...which is a potato-ey, floury wonderful little pasta...you can also make spaetzle...what do others use the ricer for?

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Tucson, AZ: Hi Kim! DC transplant here! I must say, although we have great finds at the farmer's market even in winter, I am actually envious of your snowy weather, it just makes big pots of soups and stews that much more enjoyable! Be greatful for what you have now, you'll wish for cooler weather come August for sure! Question: I stumbled upon a new vendor at the farmer's market that specializes in dried heirloom beans, many of which are native to this area and Mexico. I bought three kind, Aztec black, Christmas or "chestnut" lima, and scarlet runner beans. The black beans I think I can figure out, but what to do with the latter two? Any experience with these, or suggestions for seasoning and what to serve with? Thanks so much for taking my question, I finally remembered at the right time this week! Signed, Missing the snow!

Kim O'Donnel: Wow, how lucky are you. I don't know these varieties by sight; I'll have to consult a book and get back to you. In meatime, if anyone has insight, bring it on...

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Alexandria, Va.: Kim, you are a spot of sunshine on a gray (environmentally and emotionally) day. I'm thinking of making a big batch of iced tea as a cheerer-upper, do you or any chatters have any suggestions for making it really special and tasty? I was thinking of throwing in a bunch of fruit (sangria of the American south?), but don't want to lose the "tea-ness" of it...thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: Aren't you a little angel pie...Hmmm, ice tea to razzle dazzle you out of the winter blues...I love ginger in my iced tea...I'd make a sugar syrup with the ginger and do it that way...as for fruit, you could certainly add oranges as well as lemons to the mix, sure. Why not? Who's got ideas?

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Petworth: That leftover cooked pork tenderloin would also be great in Mexican food.

Enchiladas:
Mix it with some crumbled queso fresco and drained rinsed black beans. Roll it in corn tortilla, top with enchilada sauce and backe.

Tacquitos:
Shred it, roll it in corn tortillas and fry until crispy little tubes of meat. Serve with guacamole.

Burritos:
Shread it and mix it with a nice taco sauce or salsa. Serve with flour or corn tortillas, refried beans, shredded cheese, chopped onions, and other such things for a roll your own burrito night.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, indeed. Buena idea!

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Upstate NY: for the person questioning sushi safety for their child, you should really ask your pediatrician about this, but in the meantime, here's what the chowhound.com website has to say:

Parasites from Sushi

A recent study of sushi in restaurants in Oregon found that an appreciable amount of salmon sushi contains parasitic worms. Salmon was by far the worst, tuna the safest (no worms found at all).

As chowhound technical attache Pierre Jelenc (a biochemist) points out, even LIVING fish often contain wormy parasites, so it's not just a question of freshness. Sushi is risky food, and you might consider enjoying it sparingly and carefully.

On the other hand, you're never alone with a parasite...

Kim O'Donnel: Yeah, consulting a doc or a nutritionist is a sure-fire way to get insight. Thanks for sharing, Upstate.

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Arlington's Aged Oil: 'She could always dump the oil down the sink' -- the Today Show actually addressed this issue this morning. Dumping oil down the sink will eventually result in that oil getting into the environment. This means ducks and birds and all sorts of other wild life will suffer. I'd forgo the recycling of the bottle in this case so that the poor ducks don't need a good scrubbing!;

Kim O'Donnel: I don't like the idea of the oil going down the sink, either. But our reader seems to be concerned about how to dispose. But...at least it's not motor oil getting into the water stream...however, I'm not proposing dumping oil donw the sink.

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Washington, D.C.: I like to use a ricer for smooth, child-friendly applesauce and cranberry sauce.

Kim O'Donnel: Fantastic...

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Washington, DC: Re: Ricer. I've made gnocchi without the ricer - I recall roasting the potatoes, then basically mashing them up in the big ol'kitchen aid, adding flour, etc to come up with a dough. Am I missing a step here? What's the advantage? And is there anything else that will take the place of a ricer? (ie avoiding adding more stuff to the kitchen!;) Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: I think that's exactly what the gist of the article was...you're not missing a step...glad to get your first-hand report. Making gnocchi is lots of fun, too.

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Iced tea: I love mango -- get some frozen chunks of mango, or freeze your own, and use it for ice cubes.

Kim O'Donnel: Ah, mango. Yes. What a glorious idea for tea, especially on a day like today.

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Washington, D.C.: Simple syrup brewed with tons of mint and then strained might taste nice with the iced tea - like a mint julep sans bourbon.

Kim O'Donnel: Another excellent idea for the iced tea maven...

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Petworth: I use my ricer with roasted garlic. When you roast a whole head of garlic and want to put it into a bowl of potatos or bread dough or something like that, rather than picking out the close you can put the head in the ricer, cut side down, and squeeze. You get all the garlic with minimal work.

Kim O'Donnel: Fab. This is a great application...

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Washington, D.C.: I have another question about shelf life. I often use my Sundays to cook up chilis, soups, bathches of brown rice ready to use, etc. Always vegetarian and almost always dairy-free. How long will these things keep in the fridge? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: You're good until Friday, doll. No worries. In warmer months, it's more like three days, but right now, you're golden through the work week.

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NYC- cooking oil: Actually, I don't think that it is a good idea to dump oil down the drain. On the Today show this morning, there was a zoo director who said that 90% (or some high figure) of 'oil spills' that harm wildlife come from household sources, like pouring cooking oil down the drain. Food for thought...

Kim O'Donnel: Another reader who saw the Today segment...thanks for sharing.

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Alexandria, Va: I love making rice noodles with a peanut sauce (I think I got the recipe from the post, actually), and I add in veggies and what not. I've made it with chicken before, but the chicken was rather bland -- is there something I should do to season it before or during cooking besides the obvious? Something to go nicely with the peanut sauce? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Salt and pepper, for starters. Garlic, chilies, ginger, perhaps...Lime....

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Potato Ricer redux: Rice your cold butter/lard/shortening right into your flour for pastry making. It's terrific.

Kim O'Donnel: Another awesome use for the ricer...Bravo!

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Falls Church, Va.: Hi Kim, I lived in Europe from 2002-2003 and really miss the cuisine both in the Provence region of France and the Catalan region of Spain. Can you recommend any good Catalan, Provencal, or Nicoise cookbooks for experienced cooks & chefs? Or if not, perhaps a good French and a good Spanish cookbook? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: For France, check any titles by Patricia Wells. For Catalan cuisine, hands down, the book by Colman Andrews.

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Book Club Pasta Dish Again: That sounds great!; I actually have a lot of potential ingredients at home - pasta, onions, garlic, canned tomatoes, parm, gorogonzola, fresh mozz, and for some reason loads of fresh shitakes. I just want to make sure it has flavor!;

Kim O'Donnel: Saute the onions separately from the shrooms, and let both cook so they get real soft. Thyme is nice in the shrooms, by the way. Both get salt and pepper. Mix when both are cooked, and add fresh parsley. If you don't like goat cheese, that gorgo would be nice, too...When pasta is cooked, add cheese, a little bit of the pasta water and start stirring. it will get creamy. Add veggies and check for consistency. More liquid needed? Parm is good here, too.

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Pittsburgh, PA: Idont know if the person was joking when saying dump the cooking oil in a car engine, but I would'nt do that. Cookin oil is not the same as engine oil, which provides proper lubrication to an engine.

Kim O'Donnel: Agreed...

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Washington, D.C. - Gnocchi: My French grandmother used to make gnocchi in Nice, in the south of France. She did use something that is very similar to a ricer. I've never tried to replicate the recipe. It's very time consuming, messy, and requires a great deal of dexterity (imprinting the fork on the gnocchi) but boy, is it good!

Kim O'Donnel: Sometimes it's just wonderful to stop everything and invest in a project like making gnocchi...it puts everything in perspective.

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Alexandria VA: Any tips on making a killer yellow chicken curry?

Kim O'Donnel: Last night, I made my standby chicken curry, which I've talked about here in past...it's a lemony/coriander number, so it's more green than it is yellow...sounds like you are looking for yellow Thai curry, right? Holler.

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Another Pantry question: In rearranging my kitchen, I happened upon an unopened bottle of red wine vinegar that has to be four years old. My sense is that vinegar never goes bad. Am I wrong ?

Kim O'Donnel: Crack that baby open and give it a taste on a piece of lettuce. How does it taste? Better to know now than after you've used it in a salad. Vinegar is a living thing and does break down...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim, love the chats. I'm fiddling around with a mac and cheese recipe I have that calls for mostly sharp cheddar and a little gruyere. How would monterey jack affect the flavor - would the flavors all mesh well together and give the overall taste a slightly creamier mild outcome?

Kim O'Donnel: Jack will add some richness without getting in the way of the flaovor, so yes, I think that's fine, fine, fine. Are you using some dry mustard and nutmeg, too?

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Food life: If food's being kept in the fridge, why would its life be shorter in the summer than in the winter?

Kim O'Donnel: I'm not an engineer, but during the summer, the fridge is gonna work against the external temperature of the room in which it's located. If the kitchen is not air conditioned, then its temp is higher, and fridge works harder to keep cold...but as I said, I don't have a completely intelligent answer, I share based on personal experience.

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Gas or Electric?: If you had a choice, would you go with an electric or a gas stove/oven? Why/why not? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Gas is my first choice. There's more control for the cook, more variation of temps. I've used electric in past apartments, and I was never thrilled by its arbitrary settings.

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Bethesda, MD (re. ricer again): Many thanks for all the great responses. I think we'll just have to go out and get a ricer, and spend this Saturday (when it's supposed to snow...again) making gnocchi!;

Kim O'Donnel: You're kidding...snow again?

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Washington, DC: Re: Cooking oil in engine. The poster may have been referring to the (newer) diesel cars that, once properly modified, can take used cooking oil as their fuel - in lieu of diesel fuel. Some owners regularly "raid" their local restaurants for used oil - so their car exhaust smells more like the food fried in it than nasty fumes!; For more info I'd suggest googling vegetable oil & diesel engines. Thanks!;

Kim O'Donnel: Hmm...good point.

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Reston, Va: I bought a carton of Knorr Chipotle Sauce at Big Lots. Do you have a vegetarian suggestion for what I could do w/it? The box says use on meat/fish.

Kim O'Donnel: Mushrooms love chipotles...as do black beans, rice...you might like it with polenta...scrambled eggs...

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Baltimore, Md.: How long will a cooked oven-stuffer roaster chicken last in the fridge before I should toss it? We usually eat the breast and drumsticks the first night, but usually wind up using the remainder for chicken soup, etc... a couple days later.

Kim O'Donnel: That sounds fine, Balto. Don't sweat it. Properly wrapped and stored, the meat will keep at least three days.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, DC: Hi Kim: I have been making large batches of soups this winter and freezing them. I have about 20 so far. Do you know how long can they be kept in the freezer before going bad? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: I'd say stop making soup and start eating it! Although freezing stuff is handy, I would use it up by spring and enjoy all your hard work.

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Washington, D.C.: Kim, Recently made a cauliflower pie that required grated potatoes for the crust (mixed with grated onion and an egg white), but grating the potatoes took so long that it almost wasn't worth it! My food processor doesn't grate, so I was doing it all by hand. Any suggestions for how to move more quickly (or avoid grating altogether) next time?

Kim O'Donnel: You can get one of those handy plastic mandolines that have a grating attachment. Costs about 20 bucks. They're faster than a box grater....

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Columbus, OH: Pot Roast - why can I never get the amount of veggies right? Seems like no matter how many onions, parsnips, carrots, celery, baby potatoes I throw in the pot, there are never enough leftover veggies compared to the hunks I meat I toss in the tupperware. Any rules of thumb? Are my eyes just deceiving me?

Kim O'Donnel: Think how much you'd like on your serving plate. So maybe four baby potatoes per person, for example or 2 carrots per serving, 1/2 parsnip per, etc...think along those lines and you'll be in good shape...

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Reston, Va: How can I use the Chipotle sauce w/scrambled eggs? Just drizzle on top?

Kim O'Donnel: Sure...although I'm not sure if you're talking about chipotle chiles in adobo sauce or some other product...

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Kim O'Donnel: Hey, it's time to run. Thanks for all the great ideas and inspiration to get a ricer. Again, I'll be back online Tuesday, March 22, with tales of my travels. Stay well...

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