Talk About Travel

Favorite national parks, volunteer vacations, the Baltic...

The Flight Crew, from left: John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs. (Melissa Cannarozzi - for The Post)

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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The Flight Crew: Hey, everyone, welcome back to the Travel chat. We missed you last week, but hope you used the holiday to go somewhere fun. And if not, let's have some vicarious fun right now. The Flight Crew is (mostly) here to answer your questions, comments and -- yes -- even complaints about the world of travel, so let's get into it. I'm K.C. Summers, your captain of the day, and here with me are fellow travelistas John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Gary Lee, Andrea Sachs and Anne McDonough.

Did you see Steve Hendrix's wonderful piece on Yellowstone in yesterday's print edition? Anyone who's visited there in summer knows why Steve was smart to see it in winter. Which leads me to this week's question: What's your favorite national park, and why? Do you have a favorite national park lodging? We'll pick a couple of responses at random to receive this week's giveaways from our Big Box of Promotional Junk, to wit, one "romance kit" from a famous hotel chain (bubble bath, lip balm, lotion, heart-shaped picture frame), and a DVD of "Just Married" with Ashton Kutcher and Brittany Murphy. Why this was sent to the Travel section I have no clue, but we want to get it out of here.

Let's go!

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Marrakesh, Morocco: To the person a couple of weeks ago asking for ticket info to morocco: I went last september on royal air maroc and roundtrip ticket cost $750. I went from NYC to Casablanca, however the plane does go onto Marrakesh. Things to see/do in Marrakesh: visit the Djma Al-Fna (do try the famous snails & variety of kabobs) , enjoy a folkloric concert at Ayb Al-Fillah, the food is amazing(Chez Ali REstaraunt: ask your hotel concierge to setup tickets and transportation), visit the many palaces from the Islamic/Andalusian dynasty, visit Marjorelle Gardens, take a carriage ride through the city, visit the Mamounia Hotel (spendid luxury), see Al-Katoubia Mosque. And lastly, enjoy people watching and do try the local food at a neighborhood cafe. I have never experienced such wonderful hospitality as I did in Marrakesh and throughout Morocco.

The Flight Crew: Thanks very much for the feedback. We consistently hear great things about Morocco.

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Germantown , Md.: From two weeks ago about parks to go in Salt Lake City. Try Moab, it is about a 5 hour drive from the airport or you can take the Bighorn Express shuttle (1-888-655-7433 or www.bighornexpress.com).

There are about three or four parks around Moab (Arches, Canyonlands ...).

There are a lot of guide book about Moab that would tell you about hiking trails to go on or website like www.gorp.com or backpacker.com

Hope that helps

The Flight Crew: Hey, thanks. You deserve a price for remembering to post this. Send your contact info to summersk@washpost.com and I'll pick something out of the Big Box o' Junque for you.

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Krakow, Poland: Hi guys-

I'm going on a business trip to Budapest later this week and should have two evenings and most of one day free for tourist-y things. Any (reasonably priced) suggestions?

Many thanks!;!;

The Flight Crew: Hey Krakow,
The two things that I would suggest (other than eating massive amounts of falafel--yes, falafel--and fried dough) are seeing an opera at the main opera house (there are two, I believe) for super cheap (if you go for day-of tickets you can get good seats for two about two euros), and making the rounds at all of the baths. In February, the outside baths would probably be out of the question, but there are plenty of others, including the ones at the famous Hotel Gellert. They're all really reasonable and quite an experience. Any other suggestions out there for the Budapest-bound?
-Anne

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Seeking Sun & Spa: Hello Travel Crew!;
My mother and I are planning to take a long weekend getaway for some sun and relaxation in early March. I'd like advice about where to stay. We're flying into Ft. Lauderdale and considering the Sonesta Coconut Grove Hotel or the Trump Sonesta Beach Resort (Sunny Isles beach, north Miami Beach area?). Our primary objective is to indulge in the spa but we don't necessarily want to be in an isolated location without options (food, shopping) outside the hotel/resort. Also, we're not trying to break the bank!; The Trump resort has a spa onsite but we weren't sure about the resort's location. The Coconut Grove hotel allows access to the hotel's Key Biscayne property, which has a spa and is on the beach. Any thoughts on which place would be better? Also, if you have any other hotel/resort/spa suggestions, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks so much for your help and the great chats!;

The Flight Crew: The Coconut Grove hotel would be my choice, says Gary Lee. The beach is not spectacular, but it's nice enough and there is a lot around Coconut Grove to keep you bust when you're not in the spa. The Trump Sonesta is fine as a property but the other stuff outside of the spa is not as accessible.

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Deep Valley, USA: Favorite National Park:

Mount Lassen, because I climbed it on a ranger tour with my dad when I was 8 years old and he wasn't bald yet. Not only did I get him to myself for hours, we both made it to the top!;

Seriously, the place is beautiful and has fascinating geology lore.

The Flight Crew: That's a great nomination (and a sweet reason to remember it). Thanks DV.

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Herndon, Va.: Travel gang: Our family of four have to be in the Bradenton/Sarasota area of Florida (flying into Orlando) for a family event in mid-March. Would love if you guys or any of your faithful fans have suggestions for must-sees or must-dos that do NOT have anything to do with the mighty mouse.

The Flight Crew: Hey, Hern.

Sarasota is basically a Mouse-free zone, but if you like the beach, you're in like. There are some beauts in those parts, plus a bevy of museums and nice shopping. Our own Cindy Loose just reported a story about taking a Segway tour around Sarasota, touching on a lot of the area's high points. We'll see if we can get .com to rustle up a link.

-john

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Washington, D.C.: Thanks for the great article on Yellowstone in Winter. The timing was perfect for me as I am leaving Friday for one of the "cushier" lodging and learning programs. Just thought you might be able to give a few last minute pointers:

Packing-- Anything you wish you would have brought with you/ or extremely glad you did bring?

Food-- is there anywhere in the part to pick up items for sandwiches so you're not stuck always eating in the cafeteria.

Wolves-- the article mentioned seeing them on the road by the entrance. Is that within walking distance of Mammoth Hot Springs? Any other spots nearby?

thanks again.

The Flight Crew: Oh man. I'm sorry that Steve isn't here today to answer these Yellowstone questions. He may be here mid-chat, but we're not holding our breath, so I'll post this just in case other Yellowstone-in-winterers can help out with some answers. And if not, we'll save these for Steve and post them again next week.

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DVD: "Just Married" was probably sent to the travel section because it chronicles the hilarious hijinks (insert sarcasm) of two newlyweds on their honeymoon in Europe. See Ashton get stuck in a small car!; See Ashton get attacked by pigeons in Piazzo San Marco!; It saddens me to think this could be Americans making fun of how we are already seen by others.

The Flight Crew: So I'm guessing you don't want the DVD?

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washingtonpost.com: Sarasota by Segway, (Jan. 11, 2004)

The Flight Crew: thanks, .com!

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New York, N.Y.: I'm sure this question has come up before but I can't seem to find the thread - I need to book a hotel in Rome for a week in August - want a very nice, centrally located place (not near the train station). Any suggestions? Thanks so much!

The Flight Crew: Gary says: I think the Hotel Mozart in Rome fits your bill. Rooms are small but it's nice, near the Spanish Steps, and will not break your bank. The website is www.hotelmozart.com. Any other tips for Rome hotels out there?

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Washington, D.C.: You'll probably get a million people saying this, but the Old Faithful Inn in Yellowstone is my favorite. I'm usually a bare-bones traveller, but this place is worth the splurge. It's from another era ....one of my favorite memories is writing postcards at a wooden writing desk in the massive, log-cabin like lobby, watching people relax in rocking chairs in front of the fire in the stone fireplace....other than the hordes of people, the inn can transport you back about 100 years.

The Flight Crew: You're right, Wash, it's not exactly unknown but places like this are true national treasures. Thanks for posting.

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Favorite National Park, Utah: Arches National Park in Utah is my absolute favorite national park! Miles of hiking and gorgeous scenery, including "Delicate Arch" which is featured on Utah's license plates. It's located just outside of Moab, UT where you can find cheap hotel rates and colorful places to dine like The Jailhouse Cafe (excellent pancakes!) and Eddie McStiffs (awesome microbrews!). Plus, the park is far enough off the beaten path that it's never crowded. My favorite moment was hiking up to see Delicate Arch without any other human beings in sight, and just the sound of the wind in my ears....

The Flight Crew: Excellent suggestion. Thanks FNP!

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Seattle, Wash.: Hi - my husband and I have 2 months (!) that we can use for a vacation this fall. We'd like to spend the time in S. America, but rather than laze away our days, we'd like volunteer in some capacity for some period of time. Can you provide us with any resources? We will most likely be traveling in Brazil, Argentina, Chile and Peru. Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Some good online databases for volunteering in South America include: Globalvolunteers.org, Backpackers.com and South American Explorers (www.saexplores.org). Goabroad.com also has a great listing of volunteer, study and work opportunities. You can also contact some nonprofits with international outposts to see what kind of projects they might have, such as Sierra Club and Operation Smile. Or contact an American-based or affilated university in your chosen country, to see if they work with any local groups.--andrea

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Charlottesville, Va.: My husband and Ihave thousands of frequent flyer miles on the now-defunct TWA. Can anything be done with them? Do they have any value?

The Flight Crew: Sottilil here: American accepted TWA's frequent flier miles, but I don't know if there was a time deadline for that. Check with American at www.aa.com.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: In August, my wife and I will be headed up to the Lake George/Lake Placid area with a 10 year old boy and 13 year old girl. Any ideas on the best area in which to stay (hotel, not camping) and fun things for us to do?

Love the chats!

The Flight Crew: Hey, Gaithersburg. I loved Lake Placid when I was there, but that was in the winter, and everything was covered with two feet of snow. My inlaws, on the other hand, spend a week at Lake George every summer and swear by it.

In other words, I'm stalling here. We can't quite answer your query, but maybe someone else out there can give you a little help.

-john

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Maryland: having grown up in sarasota, all I can say is . . . don't miss the beach. just don't. any of them are pretty good, but the main beach on siesta key is fab. we won a "white sand" contest years ago, with entires from beaches around the world. it's like the color and texture of powdered sugar.

The Ringling Museum is wonderful, also.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, Md. Those beaches are outstanding, and, at least while I was there, not too too packed.
-john

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national parks: The two best "lodgings" I've seen in a national park are the campgrounds in arches NP and Colorado national monument. There's no better way to stay in a national park than sleeping outside, and unlike the more populated parks, these two give prime real estate to the campgrounds. In one you're overlooking a city, in the other you're hidden between giant "fins." Can't beat it.

The Flight Crew: Interesting... you make it sound good, even for a non-camper.

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Favorite National Park: Definitely the Petrified Forest in Arizona!; It's amazing and surreal to be in a dusty desolate forest amid the petrified remains of what must have been huge trees, plus the traces of more recent (relatively speaking!;)Native American inhabitants. I went there as a teenager with my family, and although Yellowstone, Yosemite and the Grand Canyon are more spectacular, Petrifed Forest scores big on cool.

The Flight Crew: Can't beat the cool factor. Thanks!

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Dungarvan, Co. Waterford, Ireland: I have never been to the USA. Can you suggest some alternatives to the usual travel plans. By that i mean not the obvious destinations like New York or California.

Eoin Hurley

The Flight Crew: Hey Dungarvan, good for you for thinking outside the box! There's so much more to the States than NY and Cali (though I'm partial to them both), and I think in fact that travelers get a very skewed view of what America is like when those are the only places they see. It depends on what time of year you'd be heading over here, for while the National Parks in the southwest, for example, are stunning and well worth a trip, you'll fry in summertime, and while Vermont has great skiing in winter and incredible foliage in the fall, there's really no spring there, just a mud season. How about Oregon and Washington state for amazing hiking and wineries; Virginia and the rest of the mid-Atlantic region for a look at American history; Texas for rodeos, music and that great American pasttime, high school football... it goes on and on. John reccommends Yellowstone, KC says the South Dakota Badlands are incredible, Gary plugs the Pacific Northwest, Andrea pines for the islands of Maine, and Carol loves the beaches on Long Island. Okay--we've give you lots of suggestions, how would you respond to the same question about Ireland??
-Anne

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Bowie, Md: Hey crew....I guess that my favorite national park is at Kitty Hawk, NC. There's something absolutely amazing just touring the place and realizing just what those two brothers were trying to do. Just a wonderful example of perseverance mixed in with a little blood, sweat and tears. On a windy day there, you can close your eyes and just imagine.....

The Flight Crew: Now that's different. And nice. Thanks Bowie.

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Deep Valley USA: Albuquerque or Santa Fe?

We want to see a bit of the Southwest for our next vacation. Santa Fe sounds like it might be too precious/New Age and expensive for us.

Is there another southwestern spot we should consider?

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: I would concur with your assessment of Santa Fe. It's pricey and even though there are some very interesting arts venues there, they're almost overwhelmed by the chi chi culture. Alburquerque is more down to earth though not as pretty. Taos is a nice alternative. Whatever you do, include a trip to Bandalier National Park, about an hour's drive from Santa Fe.
Any other thoughts on this among clicksters?

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White Plains, Md. RE: Rome Hotels: Westin
You want nice? You get it, though you pay for it.

The Flight Crew: Gary says: the Westin is nice but pricey indeed.

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New England: Hi all,
My sister would like to send her two daughters on a trip to Japan this spring to visit family. Do you know of any websites that could provide her with economical fares to Japan? We know of Expedia, Orbitz, Travelocity etc. but are curious to know if there are others. She is also willing to call wholesalers, if that is an option. Thanks a million.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Try www.japantravelinfo.com. That's the national tourist office, but they usually have a list of cheap airfares.

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Oakland, Calif.: Yosemite is definitely my favorite. My parents honeymooned there, and I was taken there on many a family vacation in childhood. A few years ago I went there with two good friends, and had a great time hiking up to the top of one of the mountains and I'm not really a hiking kind of girl -- it's Yosemite that makes it fun.

The Flight Crew: YEs, it's awesome. Thanks for voting.

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Falls Church, Va.: The Cape Cod National Seashore is high on my list of NPS properties. My wife and I visited one late December a few years ago, fleeing from too much family togetherness while spending Christmas with my parents, who live close to the Cape. The beach was nearly deserted, hiking paths wound through the dunes and scrubby woods, and it truly felt like the edge of the world.

The Flight Crew: Ooh, nice. Thanks for weighing in.

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Arlington, Va.: Flight Crew - I need your opinions on whether or not I should wait or buy airfare tickets now:
(1) Dulles to Paris (CDG)= around $270 for travel by April; and,
(2) Dulles to LAX = $460 (need to travel in July).

The Dulles to Paris is flexible, but the trip to LA, CA needs to take place in the first week of July.
Thanks in advance!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Buy the Paris trip ASAP. Wait on the LA trip - that's too expensive. Look into JetBlue to Long Beach.

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DVD once more: Hey I'll never pass up winning a prize, but it's not one of Hollywood's more stunning cinemagraphic moments...

The Flight Crew: Yeah no kidding. You want something else? I'm feeling magnanimous.

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McLean, Va.: To my travel experts-- you all are great and I value
your opinion. So my question: found a R/T flight on Aer
Lingus from BWI to Dublin end of May for $545 per
person.

My husband says to wait and see if we can get a better
deal-- I say not to wait since we're getting close to the
spring/summer peak months.

Who wins? For Ireland, I think that's a good price--
your thoughts??
thanks!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: $545 RT to Ireland at the end of May is about right. There could be a sale, but I wouldn't count on it.

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Seattle, Wash.: My favorite national park is Mount Rainier National Park, just a two-hour drive from Seattle. Of course the peak is one of the most dramatic in the lower 48, but hikes at the two visitor centers of Sunrise and Paradise are just splendid. Great waterfalls, excellent camping facilites, hikes galore. My favorite time in the year to go is at the peak of summer, when the wildflowers are finally in bloom all over the mountain. But the best part is that it's so easy to get to from Seattle...

The Flight Crew: Another great NP. Thanks.

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Budapest: 1. Second the Hotel Gellert spa - it was amazing. Just warning - very little english spoken and the signs were only in Hungarian (i know enough spainish and german to fudge my way through most european cities but the hungarian langauge is a mystery on to itself).

2. buy wine - good wine. very good wine. cheap wine.

3. the communist statuary garden - very cool

4. the hungarian national museum - its pretty amazing.

5. finally - be careful if you use the subways. I shyed away from them mostly because everyone I know who has gone there (okay - four sep people only) were almost arrested because of improper tickets.

6. The castle is simply incredible. Esp as they pretty much let you have the run of the place - up and down towers, run along the walls, etc.

Loved the city though. Truly stunning

The Flight Crew: Great ideas--I forgot to mention the Statue Park, which offers great photos opps of dismantled Communist statues. You can take a public bus there and back. As for the language issue...I remember English signs at the Gellert, but that didn't prevent there from being some confusion as to what the heck you're supposed to do, as in some baths you keep your suit on, others you don't, sometimes swimming caps are mandatory, sometimes they're not, sometimes it's obvious where you shower, other times you wander around the halls looking for the spray. It's all part of the fun! I never took the subway, but for the buses you do need to validate your ticket in the machine as soon as you board; undercover officers ride the buses and you will be fined for not having your ticket punched. I saw several travelers trying to argue their case but i don't think it's worth the aggravation. But then maybe I'm just a law-abiding scaredy cat.
-Anne

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1st National Park East of the Mississippi: Acadia National Park (http://www.nps.gov/acad/) has always been my favorite park to visit when DC empties in August. It's in Maine, so it's a great escape from the humidity around here. It's the only national park I can think of on the East Coast that includes both mountains and ocean. Hiking and swimming all in one day!; Or if you're like my family, half the group hikes while the other half sunbathes on the beach!; Bar Harbor (Bah Hahbah if you're a native) is home to lots of wildlife like seals and ospreys, and there are lots of local groups that offer seal-watching and bird-watching boat tours. And of course, there's always shopping in the little town!;

The Flight Crew: Yes, this one may be next on my list. Sounds so wonderful....

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Boston, Mass.: Hello crew! I just booked a package deal to Vegas for Memorial Day weekend, and I'm very excited. Staying at the Flamingo- what do you all know about that place? Also, have any of you been to Ghostbar, the bar at the Palms that's 33 stories up and supposedly has a glass floor? Worth the $20 cover?

Any other Vegas suggestions?

Thanks- you guys rock.

The Flight Crew: Hey, Boston.

First, Flamingo is a decent, mid-priced, amazingly located place with a rockin' pool and mini-zoo. Casino gets kind of crowded and it skews a bit toward an older crowd, but there are plenty of other places to visit nearby, including Bellagio, Mirage and Paris. KC saw Gladys Knight at the Flamingo (she has a long-term gig there--Gladys, not KC) and really enjoyed.

Andrea's been to the Ghostbar, but she didn't pay anything since she was staying at the Palms. She tells me that if you go to either of the big lounges at the Palms (the other is Rain), the Ghostbar is the better of the two.

As for other suggestions, I'm guessing Memorial Day weekend will be a real zoo, so book show tickets and such in advance, and make restaurant reservations well in advance as well. And I'd plan on walking or cabbing around the Strip, because it will likely be very crowded.

-john

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For the Irish Clickster....: Consider checking out Boston!;

The Flight Crew: I'd be inerested to see what they think of all of the Irish pubs there.
-Anne

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Former Adirondacks: I've got lots of suggestions about Lake George/Lake Placid, but probably need to know more about the family's interests and budget. The south end of Lake George is all T-shirt shops, mini golf, amusement parks and crowded beach. Much quieter on the north end, where you can also zip up towards Fort Ticonderoga and Lake Champlain.

Lake Placid is beautiful. Rent a boat on either Placid or Mirror Lake right in the village. You can even head over towards Saranac Lake and Tupper Lake for a change of pace. Accomodations that hit all budget ranges. I highly recommend the Mirror Lake Inn on the more expensive end. Hilton or Golden Arrow on Mirror Lake for something a little more affordable. Check out the ski jumping in Lake Placid, which they do even in the summertime by jumping into a pool.

The Flight Crew: Great stuff, FA. I thought the Mirror Lake Inn was beautiful..wish I'd stayed there!

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Favorite Nat'l Park:: Grand Teton in the Fall is my family's favorite Nat'l Park. We always go in late September and have had beautiful weather. There are no crowds, or traffic, at all and you can chit-chat with the rangers at a leisurely pace. The wildlife is usually starting to come down into the valleys in preparation for winter and the elk are bugling, which is something to witness. In our last trip we stayed at a cabin in Moose, WY and we're very happy with the location (right on the banks of the Snake River!;) and quality of the accomodations. We were able to rent mountain bikes and canoes from the same company that has the cabins = very convenient day-tripping into the park. The aspens are turning gold around that time of year which just adds more beauty to hiking, etc. With Yellowstone only an hour drive away, you can easily checkout the geysers and have dinner at the Old Faithul Inn. And if you need a break from nature, Jackson is a short drive to the south for shopping, art galleries, and restaurants.

The Flight Crew: Another great one. All these nominations are fantastic and giving us great ideas for our special section.

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Maryland: I enjoyed the article on Yellowstone in the winter. Is there anywhere around here I can try cross-country skiing or snowshoeing, so I know what I'm in for if I go to winter Yellowstone?

The Flight Crew: A great resource is the Cross Country Ski Areas Association, which offers a resort guide with local spots. For West Virginia, for example, it lists Timberline Ski Area and White Grass Touring Center. It also has some snowshoeing advice. For Virginia, Cross-Country Skiing Online suggests Bryce Resort, Massanutten Resort and Wintergreen.
If we have another Storm of the Century, you can also practice along Rock Creek, Mount Vernon Bike Path or W&OD, or around the Masonic Temple in Alexandria. The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club also has a Ski Touring division that offers instruction and ski trips.
You might also want to pick a Mid-Atlantic national park, like Shenandoah or Blue Ridge, and try your techniques out there, for the true park experience, wildlife and all. --andrea

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Heathsville, Va.: my favorite park is Acadia in Maine. It is just beautiful. We did a lot of biking there

The Flight Crew:
Another vote for Acadia....

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Herndon, Va.: My favorite - Crater Lake National Park in Oregon. Stay at the newly-revamped hotel dating back to the "go old days" when visitors came up by carriage. The lake is gorgeious. Then (this was in July!) hiked around in the copious snow banks still surrounding the crater. But be careful - I marched out to see what a fallen sign said, and it turned it over to see "DANGER" - warning hikers to stay off unsupported snow.

The Flight Crew: Yikes. That's nature for you.

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For the Relaxing Miami Weekenders: Hi-- Just wanted to add that the weekend of March 5-9th in Miami is the Winter Music Conference/Festival. Sort of like Spring Break for the electronic music scene. Lots of fun but, may not be the most relaxing time to go.

The Flight Crew: Thanks.

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Rome hotel & volunteering abroad: I like to stay at Hotel Smeraldo, off the Campo di Fiori. Rooms have been around the $100 range, but include private bathroom and TV. Hotel is pretty modern inside, off a quiet side street, but 2 blocks from Campo di Fiori and The Tiber River.

As for volunteering abroad, Habitat for Humanity International works in several countries (including almost all the South American ones). You can contact their international office for information of helping out abroad.

The Flight Crew: Thanks a lot on both counts.

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Montgomery County, Md: Have any of you -- or any lurkers/readers --been to Tallinn, Estonia or Riga, Latvia?

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: I have been to both several times and like them. For quaint architecture, Tallin is a bit better. For restaurants, shopping, etc, I prefer Riga.

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Belmont, Mass.: Anybody have information/experiences on the Azores? It has been on my mind as a destination, but I don't have good information and most travel guides for Portugal don't cover them.

Recommended National Park: Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area, a series of hidden gems just off the coast of downtown Boston.

The Flight Crew: Belmont, we are clueless on this so we'll appeal to the clicksters. Anyone know the Azores?

And thanks for the Bahston Hahbor nomination.

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Formerly from Albuquerque: Unless you're interested in buying very expensive "art" and "Indian" jewelry avoid Santa Fe shopping - they do however have a wonderful Georgia O'Keefe gallery and the plaza is nice to people watch. That being said I only go to Santa Fe about once every 5 years and prefer to explore in and around Albuquerque. In fact if ABQ is your home base take the high road to Taos from there - you'll get some breathtaking scenery and it's a nice drive. Also try El Malpais National Park in Western NM - the main attraction is a monolith with an abandoned pueblo and signatures from people making the trek across the west from Spain, Baltimore, etc...it's wonderful.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, says Gary.

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New Mexico: SANTA FE ALL THE WAY!

Had a business trip take me to Albuquerque a few years ago. There's not much to see there unless its during the hot air balloon festival.

The Flight Crew: Thanks for your input, says Gary.

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Orem, Ut-Favorite Park: Before last spring, I would have said Yellowstone (especially in winter) and Yosemite (in April). But after visiting the North Rim on the weekend it opened last May, I'd have to put the Grand Canyon at the top of my list. The views down into the Gorge are just incredible(being on the uncrowded side of the canyon helped add to the experience, I'm sure). I'm headed to Death Valley in early April so I may change my mind. (I do love Zion and Bryce Canyon and always get a kick out of hiking in Shenendoah(sp?))

The Flight Crew: I'm with you, OUFP. The Grand Canyon's got to be at the top of the list.

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The Flight Crew: Here are some follow-ups to the last chat we had about Califoria airports (a few clicksters chimed in after hours):

Hi,
This is a belated response to the clickster who asked about an economical way to get from Stanford to Oakland Airport:
Caltrain runs from downtown Palo Alto (Stanford) only as far as downtown San Francisco. From there, the clickster can take a MUNI bus or light-rail vehicle (or cab; it's about a mile) to a BART station. BART runs to Oakland. From the Oakland Airport BART station, one rides a shuttle ($2.00 each way) to the airport. I'd leave a minimum of two hours for this trek, and pack a maximum of patience. Something to note is that Caltrain can run as infrequently as once an hour during parts of the day, so travelers must check the Caltrain schedule.
If possible, I'd fly from SFO instead. There's an SFO Caltrain station (Millbrae, I think) between Palo Alto and San Francisco, from which Caltrain offers a free shuttle to SFO.
Rebecca Reis
San Francisco

Dear Travel Section:

I am responding belatedly to a question in the Feb. 9 online chat on how to get from Oakland Airport to Stanford University. (original question below:)
Potomac, Md.: Is there a shuttle between Oakland Airport and the CALTRAN? Is there another economical way to get to Stanford from Oakland Airport?

I live in San Mateo, Calif. (a few miles north of Stanford) and can say this:
It's doable by public transit, but a hell of a long haul, probably about 45-50 miles.
First, there is a shuttle bus from OAK to the West Oakland stop on the BART system (the commuter train that handles San Francisco and points east, including Oakland); it leaves every 15 minutes up through midnight, when BART shuts down for the night. http://www.bart.gov/guide/airport/airport.asp
Take BART past San Francisco to the Millbrae stop (newly added at the far end of the line to connect with San Francisco Airport). There, you can cross over to CalTrain (not "CALTRAN," which people are likely to confuse with CalTrans, the state agency responsible for building freeways). This is a long-haul commuter train for the West Bay, from San Francisco to San Jose.
http://www.caltrain.com/
The BART ride takes about 45 minutes. The CalTrain ride takes about 30 to 40 minutes from Millbrae to Stanford, depending on whether you take an express train.
The transfer to CalTrain is easy, but you may have to wait up to 30 minutes for the next Caltrain during the day, or up to an hour after the evening commute. Moreover, there currently is no weekend service while the track is being upgraded; there is a substitute bus, but it takes hours.

My main suggestion to Potomac would be: FLY INTO SFO, NOT OAKLAND! Just last fall, a BART station was built at San Francisco International Airport; you travel one stop to the Millbrae station, then transfer to Caltrain. However, if Potomac is flying on the weekend, s/he is out of luck and would probably do better just to take a commercial shuttle bus.
http://www.oaklandairport.com/shuttles.shtml

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Washington, D.C.: Re: National Parks: Mesa Verde in Colorado is incredible and unusual. You can climb up and down ladders into the well-preserved ruins of native american cliff dwellings. It's good for people who like history and people who like hiking.

The Flight Crew: Yes, it's wonderful. Thanks for posting.

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Washington, D.C.: Hello All!

I am booking a family trip and need airfare for 65 people. From a DC area airport to Miami or Ft Lauderdale... Any ideas? The rates that I have been getting are well into the $400's

The Flight Crew: You did not say what month you are going, so it is hard to say what rates to expect. But $400 is WAY to high; you should be paying $200 or less. However, with 65 (!!!) passengers, you would be wise to talk to an airline supervisor or someone of authority, who might be able to cut a deal. Or even try a travel agent, who might be able to get a group rate. Otherwise, look into the low-fare airlines, who fly that route often.--andrea

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For Ireland: This DC native who spent 6 yrs living in Chicago says that Ireland should think about a few days in Chicago, if interested in a big US city outside NYC. Chicago is the #3 city in the US (still called the Second City, but LA took that title decades ago). It has fabulous restaurants, great architecture (especially downtown skyscrapers and Frank Lloyd Wright bldgs in Oak Park) and is a nice walking-around city. The setting is gorgeous - completely flat, and right on the lake (Lake Michigan). The weather is warm enough to go to the beach, either downtown or in a neighborhood, in the summer. The water is, er, refreshing (i.e. cold!;) but clean. And, unlike a lot of places in the US, you don't need to rent a car!; The buses and subway (called the el, for 'elevated') are reliable.

Just my 2 cents.

The Flight Crew: I was in Chicago last weekend and I have to second this recommendation--with the caveat that perhaps fall and spring are the best times to go. And Ireland, if you do go, make sure to catch some blues.
-Anne

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Arlington, Va.: My fave National Park spot has to be the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite. When I was a teenager, I went on a ten-day backpack in the high country and my group lost a bear bag (we think it was actually raccoons). Needless to say, there wasn't QUITE enough to eat for the remaining seven days. When we got to the Ahwahnee (after a LOOONG shower), they had the biggest brunch spread and most comfortable rooms ever where I could nap away the afternoon after overindulging in prime rib. Definitely worth the expense, and a lot more comfortable- although less scenic- than a tent.

The Flight Crew: Thanks Arl!

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Amazed no one else has mentioned...: John Pennekamp in Key Largo...America's only underwater national park!; The snorkeling and diving is the closest you can get to the Carribean by car...what else could be better?

The Flight Crew: Yep, you're the first. And it deserves a mention. Thanks!

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Favorite National park?: When I was 10 years old, my parents took me to the Grand
Canyon (and other places along the way). As we stood at a
lookout point, they said "Look at that hiker way down
there!;" I said "What hiker?" Thus they discovered that I
needed glasses. I haven't been back but I would love to
see it sometime when it wasn't blurry!;

The Flight Crew: Hoot! You definitely owe it to yourself to go again!

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Orem, Utah: I'm traveling to Vienna in mid-July. My question involves tourist sites off the beaten path. Are there any not-to-be-missed towns or sites that aren't in the typical places (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck, etc.) or that are on the way to these places (include Bavaria/Munich, too). Travel's not a problem; my friends in Vienna are taking their vacation while I'm visiting and have purchased a very nice auto. Also, I don't plan on purchasing my tix until May, what should i expect to pay (right now $930 seems to be the low end).
Thanks.

The Flight Crew: Hey Orem,
We have some Vienna experience here but not much in the way of outside the city--I'm sure your friends will have all the ins and outs of the city handled! So we're throwing this out to the clicksters for help. In the next few weeks keep your eye out for a piece on the ball season in Vienna to get yourself into the mood for the trip.
-Anne

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Prince William, Va. Re: Favorite Park: My favorite park? The Badlands in South Dakota. The views are spectatcular. Can it get any better? Of course it can, I am moving to the park in six weeks.

The Flight Crew: Wow. In what capacity? I love the Badlands too. Such an amazing place, like being on another planet.

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Leaving Tomorrow: The annual winter cheap flight Europe trip begins tomorrow with England and Spain, mostly the countryside in both countries, which leads to my question. I have 18 hours in London. Couldn't care about changing of the guard, seeing an art museum or anything like that. Architecture, food, drink and conversation with locals is usually what I look for in travel. Am mostly interested in walking a neighborhood, or even a congested spot in the center of the city, but anything that might give me a bit of the pulse of London, where I've never been before. Knowing that, where would you send me? BTW, I'm staying one night at a hotel near Victoria Station.

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says that if I were you I would try: the Portobello Road Market (don't buy anything, just mingle); Speaker's Corner in Hyde Park and the neighborhood of Brixton for gadding about, having a pint and meeting a local or three..

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Boston, Mass.: Advice for Sarasota traveller - hit the beach on Siesta Key. Park the public beach and you will not be dissapointed. One of the best beaches in all of Florida. After the beach, eat in the Village or there are some good restaurants on the Water in Siesta Key

The Flight Crew: Thanks, Boston.

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Washington., D.C.: Re: Azores

My in-laws from Dublin go all the time. They love it, but the one time we went with them, it was swarming with sun-burned Brits wearing speedos. I'm still in recovery!

The Flight Crew: Hoot again. Thanks for posting (I guess).

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Derwood, Md.: Lake Placid trip with kids -- take a bobsled ride! I think these are offered year round, even in August.

Also, remember to bring some warm clothes -- even in August, the Adirondacks can get quite cool, especially in the evenings or up on the high peaks.

The Flight Crew: Hey, Derwood. You can take those things in August? Wow. I did it in the winter and LOVED it. Just a hoot.

-john

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Silver Spring, Md.: Re Sunday's Travel Section article on Hawaii's Last Refuge, can you please tell me how I can get a copy of that photo on the cover, the sea cliffs as seen through a building at Kalaupapa National Historical Park? Credit reads Wayne Levin/Taxi/Getty. I would love to have an 8 x 10 color print and would be most grateful if you could tell me how I could obtain one. Many thanks.
Laura Raney

The Flight Crew: Hey there,
For reprints, you'd have to contact Getty Images at 800 IMAGERY (800-462-4379). Glad you liked the pic!
-Anne

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National Park: Nothing beats the Olympics, in my home state of Washington. Rain forest meets the jagged cliffs of the Pacific. I'd gone a lot when I was a kid, but hadn't been back in years. Last year I brought a friend out for a 5 day backpacking trip along the coast, and nearly rethought my east coast life. We saw hundreds of marine mammals (including Orcas!;), herds of Elk, and even a bear. The tidepools though, are my favorite part. It's a spiritual experience, knowing that thousands of crustaceans live their entire lives in these little universes.

The Flight Crew: Neat. Thanks.

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It's not exactly a national park: but I like the Roger Williams National Memorial in Rhode Island. I think it's the only National anything in RI. I went to college in Providence, so it has sentimental value for me.

The Flight Crew: Awww. And what is this, exactly?

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Baltimore, Md.: My favorite Park is close - Assateague! Its -amazing- - the trails, the sights, the ponies, you can go crabbing and clamming, and the beach! Ok, the mosquitos make camping there less than stellar, but its an amazing park, and more amazing to me since I got to see it at 8 with a pony (and of course Misty) obesession, take friends from college there, take my fiance there, and take my perfectly brilliant and adorable nephew - whose an expert crabber! Its truly an amazing local experience.

The Flight Crew: Ooh, you're right. Assateague is great. Thanks for posting.

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Tucson, Ariz.: Yellowstone in the fall just before the campsites close always draws me back. Climbing out of a sleeping bag to 17 degree air, cold hands wrapped around a warm mug of coffee with the prospect of a day of hiking through the relatively deserted park is as close to pure hedonism as I've found. It seems like the wildlife know that most people have gone and it's time to reclaim the park.

The Flight Crew: You make it sound so nice... even better than winter. Thanks.

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Rockville, Md.: Hi, My husband and I booked a trip to Bermuda this weekend thru's Travelocity's lasy minute Internet deal. We're staying at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess. I have read some comments on Trip Advisor cautioning people about the types of rooms offered as part of these package deals at the Fairmont. Have you had any such experience or do you any advice for me? Thanks so much!;!;

The Flight Crew: Hey, Rock. I think most of the staff has booked a room or two at the last minute, and I can understand your fears. Generally, we've been pretty lucky getting a decent room, but, as Gary says, it depends on the time of season and location. New Year's Eve in New York? You may have a problem finding a decent last-minute room.

Only advice would be to, once you get there, check out the room before you commit to it and ask for a better one if you don't like it. It never hurts at check in to ask for a room with a good view, or one on the upper floor, or away from the elevator/ice machine. Also, if you requested a king room when you reserved and can live with two doubles or two queens, that sometimes opens up a whole batch of rooms to you.

Anyone else out there with some suggestions for Rockville?
-john

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Arlington, Va.: Favorite National Park: I visited Mammoth Caves National Park in September on my way to a family wedding in Louisville, Kentucky, and loved it! I thought I should a perfunctory stop because it was on the way, but it was much more interesting than I had expected - the caves are amazing, the rangers were very friendly and informative, and I stayed in one of the rustic cabins on the park premises that had been built by the CCC, which was clean, comfortable, and very affordable!

The Flight Crew: Another one to add to the list. Thanks, Arl.

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Vienna: I wish for the life of me I could remember the name of the town - but I am pretty sure it is outside of Salzburg. Anyway - there is a tour of the salt mines that you MUST go on. Yes it is a bit dorky that you dress up in miners clothes, but train rides a mile into the mountain, sliding down miner's slides, a boat ride across an underground lake, etc etc. Went there often as a kid and I still remember it with a huge grin. And of course the dorky pictures of my whole family dressed up.

The Flight Crew: Could you be thinking of the Berchtesgaden salt mines? Sounds like quite an experience!
-Anne

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Favorite National Park: This is a hard one but I have to say that Volcano National Park on the Big Island in Hawaii is my favorite one. Where else can you see hot lava flowing into an ocean. Plus, at the top with all the steam coming out it looks like it's from another world. But the best part of it is you have to go to Hawaii to see it...

The Flight Crew: I LOVE this park. A real lifetime experience. Thanks!

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Washington, D.C.: Travel-hungry boyfriend and self are trying to select a destination and season for our next trip. Spots under discussion include Bulgaria, Paris, Costa Rica, Morocco, Vancouver, Peru, Malta, many others. Upside of Paris would be cheap accommodations, downside is the dollar and the been-there-done-thatness. Have friend in Bulgaria as tour guide. What would you suggest? As for timing, does your answer change if we schedule for.... May? July? October? Help!

The Flight Crew: Your list is a bit too diverse and long to give much thoughtful advice without knowing what you want, says gary. But if youwant ancient culture and good food and you want to do it on the cheap, move Peru to the top of your list. You can go anytime and fine pretty nice weather. I like Vancouver also, but mostly in May-August.

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Favorite park: I don't have a favorite park (your making me choose?!;). But my favorite lodging is the hotel at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. After a very long hike down (or bumpy donkey ride) it is a very welcome rest, good food, great place to talk to other travlers (hostel and private room accomodations) and no scorpions or snakes. And it's nice to be able to really appreciate the canyon and its beauty, instead of shoving for picture taking spaces up top.

The Flight Crew: Or falling off the rim. Thanks.

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The Flight Crew: Here's some more chat follow-up, this time about Salt Lake City.:

Hi!
I was reading the archive of your chat on 2/9/04, and was sorry that I missed it! I've been to Salt Lake City recently, and I had a few comments about this question:

Mt. Pleasant, Washington, D.C.: Hello Flight Crew,
Some colleagues and I are heading to Salt Lake City for a conference in March. We'll have a bit of time in the evenings to see the city, and then want to take a little side trip over the last weekend. There are so many National Parks and attractions. We don't want to spend the whole time in the car, and we love the outdoors, but not necessarily skiing. Any suggestions? Also, anything in SLC that shouldn't be missed?
Thanks!
The Flight Crew: Aside from hearing the choir and filling out cards at the Temple asking for home visits (I fill them out with the names of people who have dissed me) we don't know Salt Lake as well as we should, aside from skiing.

Who can help? I'll send you a nice calendar if you can give me Salt Lake tips. Cindy
Certainly, Temple Square is a must-see, but I really enjoyed the 2 short trips I took outside the city. The first was an overnight to Arches National Park (http://www.nps.gov/arch/). It's about a 4 and a half hour drive from Salt Lake City, through the middle of nowhere with beautifuls views at every turn. Arches NP is home to Delicate Arch, which can be seen on Utah state license plates (which is what prompted my trip). The park is great for hiking. Arches NP is also close to Moab, which is where we stayed. $50/night for a double at the Econolodge, we just drove in on a whim. Other hotels had similar rates. We dined at Eddie McStiff's, and their microbrews alone would have been worth the trip. Canyonlands NP is also close by, but I didn't have time to visit on my tight schedule. Arches is definitely worth the drive! It's gorgeous!!!
The other trip outside SLC was to Promontory Point on the Great Salt Lake. We drove out to Golden Spike National Historic Site (http://www.nps.gov/gosp/), which is about an hour from SLC. It's the place where the golden spike was laid, completing the transcontinental railroad and bridging the continental divide. It's a great place to visit if you're into railroad history. I only went there because it's the starting point for the trip to Spiral Jetty, an artwork by the late Robert Smithson (http://www.robertsmithson.com/earthworks/spiral_jetty.htm). Spiral Jetty is one of the coolest things I have ever seen. Smithson built it in 1970 using a bulldozer and tons of rocks. It has been submerged beneath the Great Salt Lake in the past, but when I went, it was barely above the lake surface and completely covered in! salt crystals. It looked like a polar landscape. It's only 15 miles from Golden Spike, but the roads are extremely rough. It took us an hour to get out there in our economy rental car. SUVs had a much easier time. At the end of the road, there's a quarter-mile hike to the best spot for viewing the jetty. Directions to the jetty (which are an absolute must!!!) can be obtained at the Golden Spike visitors' center

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Re: Tallinn/Riga: Gary, do you have any specific recommendations of restaurants in Riga, or things to see in Tallinn? Has the Post ever done a story on either city?
Thanks!;

The Flight Crew: Gary says: I don't remember that we have done a story on either place and I'm afraid that I'm not so up-to-date that I could suggest Riga restaurants. Why not try the embassies here.

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Chicago, again: Skip the blues clubs - they are cheesy tourist traps (esp. the ones on Halstead and Clark Sts.). Go to the Green Mill 4802 Broadway for great jazz. Neighborhood is sketchy, but it's one block from the Lawrence stop on the red line. Great music every night except Sundays. Mon-thurs local acts (high quality) Fri Sat national names in jazz. Low cover too! And the place is gorgeous. Think grand piano behind bar, and original furnishings from the 20s when Al capone owned it. All that, and still not a cheesy tourist place.

Spring and Fall are great (After March, before November). Summer can be pleasant or hot - you'll never know until you get there. But go!

The Flight Crew: Are you saying that blues is no longer worth listening to in Chicago??? Somehow I find that hard to believe--some clubs may be cheesy but I'm sure a genuine blues experience is still to be had. Great suggestions on the jazz front.
Also, meant to mention this before: if you're up for an evening of female impersonators, head to the Baton Club on N. Hyde St., which is celebrating it's 35th anniversary this year. It made for quite an evening, let me tell you.
-Anne

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Mt. Pleasant, Washington, D.C.: Hi Flight Crew - My boyfriend and I are joining my family for a big family trip to Poland in May. After a week in Poland, the two of us are heading to Romania for a week. We're using frequent flyer miles to fly into Poland and out of Bucharest.

I've checked the cheap inter-Europe airfare sites, but none of them offer cheap, 1-way flights from Poland to Romania. What is the best way to do this? A quick check on Tarom or Lot showed exorbitant rates for a 1-way ticket from Warsaw to Bucharest. And I'm afraid the train may be a really long ride. Can you help?

The Flight Crew: Did you try europebyair.com or ryanair.com?

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Daytrip from Vienna: I recommend Baden. It's about a half hour by train and is a cute little town with natural hot springs, spas, an opera house, casino, and nice little shops and cafes. Not very touristy, but very quaint with friendly locals.

The Flight Crew: Excellent idea, thanks.
-Anne

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Battle Creek, Mich.: I understand there's a new luxury oceanfront hotel opening up near Charleston, SC. What can you tell me about it?

The Flight Crew: Do you mean the Sanctuary at Kiawah Island? It will open in June, and is related to Richmond's Jefferson Hotel and Nashville's Hermitage--so you can expect fine-china style and blue-blood good taste. The resort is on a barrier reef, less than 20 miles from downtown Charleston. It will have world-class golf (5 courses) and tennis (28 courts), and a garden-themed spa. Rates will run from $275-$625 a night, but they might have just-opened promotions. Looking at the rooms on www.sanctuary.com, the place looks divine. We can dream, can't we??--andrea

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More on National Parks: Do National Lakeshores count? If so, I heartily nominate Sleeping Bear Dunes in Michigan. The sand dunes are graceful and larger than you can believe. They are wonderful for a vigorous hike or a playful run down their sides... and the sunsets over adjacent Lake Michigan are breathtaking. And, the small towns nearby are wonderful too.

The Flight Crew: Yes, we'll take it. Thanks!

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Bethesda, Md: Hey crew,
I'm planning a trip to Europe this summer, and
need a little advice. First, hoow far in advance
should I try and buy them? Second, We'll be flying
into London. For the fly out, we're trying to decide
whether to fly out of Lisbon ( and pay more for
different arrival and departure cities), or fly from
Lisbon to London, and then fly out of London to
the States. Any advice?

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: London is usually the cheapest city to fly into - you will pay more to fly out of Lisbon. You may save money by taking a cheap flight from Lisbon to London - try www.openjet.com and www.ryanair.com to look at fares. London is not going to be cheap in summer. Expect to pay $700 or so. Sometimes there are short-lived sales as the summer grows closer if seats need to be filled, so if you're flexible on dates/times you may wait a bit. But you have to keep up on the sales because they come and go so quickly.

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Roger Williams National Memorial: Ok, technically, it's a park, but it's tiny (as is Rhode Island) and it's in the middle of Providence, so it's not what you think of when you think National Park. It's more like the Mall in DC, but without all the museums. Just a nice place to hang out near the river.

The Flight Crew: Okay, well I'm not sure it quite compares with John Pennekamp or the Grand Canyon but it sounds very nice!

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Washington, D.C.: I've been reading transcripts of past chats and I love it!;

My mother is visiting DC from Hawaii the first weekend in April. She'd like to visit Philadelphia to check out all the touristy sites (Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, etc).
Since we can only be there for a day, should we rent a car or catch a train? We wouldn't mind walking around the city (we're both fast walkers :), but is it possible to see the sights in one day by this method? If we'd need to use the subway system, is it fairly simple to use? Or how driver-friendly is the city? Anyone out there have any suggestions about must-visit places/some place to eat lunch, etc?

Thanks so much!;

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: I would suggest taking the train and then using a combination of subway and feet to get around. With some careful planning, you'll be able to cover the high points in that way.

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Follow up on TSA and locks: In previous chats you've had discussions about the so-called TSA approved locks. I've always been too late to post my comment about my experience at Christmas, so here it is.

I've got cheap little padlocks on my bags that could probably be picked with a bobby pin, but I figure they're a deterrent to someone trying to quickly grab something out of the bag. And even though they warn you when you check your bags that TSA may open them and break the lock, I'd still rather have them locked and the locks are so cheap that it's no big loss if TSA feels the need to break them.

Well, when I arrived in LA at Christmas, I was opening one bag that looked untouched and found the TSA notice that they had opened it inside. They had unlocked my $1.50 padlock and had then reattached it.

Now I don't feel bad about being cheap!;

The Flight Crew: Those guys can pick anything. Thanks for posting.

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Arlington, Va.: Don't forget Glacier National Park, a little more work getting to but worth the effort. The Going to the Sun Road is breathtaking and more chance of seeing a bear than in Yellowstone.

The Flight Crew: Yes, and better go soon before the glaciers all melt.

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Portland, Ore.: Any tips for finding the best fares to Europe this summer? Husband & I are taking his parents to Switzerland to celebrate their 50th anniversary in August (only time we can go). Do you see any airfare deals for summer coming up? Fares hover at $1100 right now from West Coast. Do you think we can find anything cheaper down the road? Thanks for the help!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: If you're leaving from Portland, it's going to be expensive. You may get some better sale fares out of San Francisco or Los Angeles, but you'd have to get there first. $1,100 sounds steep, but it's not out of the ballpark. Have you tried a consolidator or discounter? Give a call to 1800flyeurope.com or try www.flights.com.

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Washington, D.C.: Re airfare for the 65 people... We are leaving November 20th returning on November 27th

The Flight Crew: Well, since you are traveling on a holday, yes, it will be more than usual. Again, I say contact a travel agent, they might be able to get your large population a good rate.
Also, when I did a quick search on Orbitz, I found $240 fares.

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rentals: I am planning a bike trip (just a couple of nights) and don't really want to use paniers. So I am interested in possible renting a "bob" or the trailer that attaches to the back wheel. Anyone know where/if one can be rented?

The Flight Crew: We don't. Try your local bike shop or an organization like League of American Bicyclists (www.bikeleague.org). Anyone out there know?

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Kensington, Md.:
Hi! Keep up the good work -- I enjoy the Travel section every Sunday, followed by this forum.

However, I don't understand why you think determining directions in Antarctica is somehow "difficult" (Travel Trivia). It's really quite simple. First you look for the South Pole. Then, to determine the direction from one point to another, simply determine where they lie in relation to the South Pole. The same principle applies to determining directions in the Arctic.

If they are roughly on the same latitude, then the two points are in an east-west relationship; if they are roughly on the same longitude (as are Vinson Massif and Patriot Hills), then they are in a north-south relationship.

Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Hey, Ken. Thanks much for the note. The only reason we said it was difficult was because it's not the standard east-west-south-north configuration when you look at it in the atlas--you really have to think a bit before sending people in a particular direction. Which, of course, is what I wish we'd done!Thanks much for reading along, Ken, and for the lesson.

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Clarksville, Md.: Hello Flight Crew,
We are planning a getaway this Spring and noticed that United now has non-stop flights from Dulles to Costa Rica. Any comments if it is a great place to go, what to see and where to stay would be most appreciated. I was a little put off by the "official" Costa Rica website that list several travel warnings.

By the way, we took a trip to Malta last Fall and your comments on the Post website were very helpful. I would go back to Malta in a second!

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: For a first timer, I would recommend skipping the capital of San Jose and instead concentrating on the Miguel Antonio and Monte Verde Cloud forest areas. Ignore the warnings and barrel ahead.

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Re: Hamilton Princess: I would be pleasant but a little firm with the front desk there. This past summer, my wife and I were stuck with a room in one of the un-renovated auxilliary wings; our room resembled a small-town Hilton in the '70s even though we really had paid top dollar. They ended up giving us a credit toward a future stay.

But even in a not-so-nice room you have access to all of the same hotel amenities. The afternoon tea there is excellent, with tropical touches like kumquat jam on the scones!;

The Flight Crew: Nice going--and just the thought of someplace "tropical" sounds mighty nice right now. Thanks for the assistance.

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RE: International Volunteering: Just an FYI, you should consider the international volunteer programs at Cross Cultural Solutions, which have been touted as a mini-stint in the Peace Corps. They have programs in some of the countries that you mentioned: Brazil and Peru, with timeframes ranging from 2 to 12 weeks.

The Flight Crew: Yes, they are mentioned often when talking about volunteer "vacations." Thanks!

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Fairfax, Va.: For more on volunteering/classes in South America:

www.amerispan.com -- they have great Spanish language programs in almost every Latin American country and also do volunteer placements

www.cross-culturalsolutions.com -- good site for short-term volunteering

www.i-to-i.com -- more short-term volunteer projects, many of which are located in central/south america

The Flight Crew: Great suggestions, thanks!

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Travel Gurus!

Wanting to fly down to the Fort Meyers, FL area to see some baseball spring training games in late March.

Any ideas of how to fly down there cheaply from the Washington, DC area (any airports) or where to stay and other things to see? Thanks.

A Baseball Nut

The Flight Crew: Hey Arl,
I don't have any info off the top of my head for this year's training, but check out last year's article about spring training in the (free) Travel archives under Travel by topic/spectator sports, or just use this link: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A42599-2003Feb21.html. Also, have you thought of looking into fares to Tampa, and then driving?
Hope that helps!
-Anne

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Rockville, Md: Hello,
I'm trying to plan a trip to Europe this summer with some friends, and we're wondering if we'd do better thropugh a travel agent, or just doing it ourselves. Any links to a travel website and such? Thanks

The Flight Crew: Rockville, just the fact that you asked this makes me think you should go the travel agent route. Planning a European itinerary, especially if you're visiting multiple countries, can be complicated and time-consuming, and if you aren't familiar with the basic discount sites you're in for a whole lot of headaches. I'd recommend finding a good (key word: good) travel agent -- ask friends for a recommendation -- and let them do the work for you. It's worth the small fee you'll pay. Plus, if anything goes wrong you'll have someone to go to bat for you. -- KC

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Volunteer vacations: Don't they usually cost the volunteer? The idea is to provide service to the organization, not room and board to the vols, so people should be on the alert for that. The poster didn't mention cost, so maybe s/he already knows.

The Flight Crew: True, most of these organizations charge the volunteer a fee. That is why, if you are short on funds, you might want to contact a local source (again, like an American-related unversity or hospital) to see if they have suggestions of where you can donate your time and sweat, not your money.

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Re: Philadelphia: I commute to Philadelphia one day a week, and I have to agree that taking the train is the way to go!;
Also, I think you should have mentioned that most of the tourist sites that people want to see in Philadelphia (Liberty Bell, Independence Hall) are within a few blocks of each other, so it's entirely possible to do a walking tour without having to use the subway.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, says Gary. I would recommend taking the subway from the train station and sticking to your feet after that...

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Ashburn, Va.: We will be traveling to Melbourne and Sydney, Australia in December during the holidays (had to book early as we're using frequent flyers). I am wondering if it would be best to use a travel agent to book my hotels, either one based locally or in Australia, or to try to book the hotels and the Penguin Parade myself. I'm not sure if I'll pay a lot more to use a travel agent, but also not sure if I'll know where the best locations are to stay if I do it myself. Also, because it is the summer combined with holiday season there, I'm wondering how far in advance I should book hotels and the parade. Any guesses or educated answers? Thanks verrryy much!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Go to the Austrialian Tourist Commission (www.australia.com), which keeps a list of certified travel agents. It's a good idea to work with an agent on this. It should not cost you any more than doing it yourself.

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Re: Tallinn: I visited Tallinn for a few days in 2002 and found it a very pleasant place, but not chock-ful of stuff to do. Just walking around the town was nice -- there is the "wall of sweaters" along one part of the wall that surrounds the city, where you can get nifty handknit stuff for cheap. In the center of town across from the town hall there was a Christmas market (obviously they only have that around the holidays, but they might have other markets the rest of the year). There are a few churches to see, and you can climb up in some big tower they've restored into a museum, but really it's just a pleasant, low-key place to spend a couple of days. Might be fun to take in all the Baltic countries in one trip.

The Flight Crew: Gary says: now that's an idea! You can get between the three Baltic capitals very easily by bus. I definitely think that Vilnuius is worth including.

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Washington, DC: Hi, Crew!; I would love to go to Peru this summer, but I don't have any friends who are able to go with me. I have a great deal of international travel experience, and I also speak Spanish, but, even with taking all the necessary precautions, would it be safe for me (a 22-yr. old female) to travel to Peru alone?

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee, who knows Peru very well, says that you should avoild Lima. Otherwise, if you follow basic safety rules in places like Cusco and Arequipa (not to be missed) you'll be okay...

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Travels with baby: On a United Express flight this past week out of Dulles, I was putting my 16 month old into a child carrier in preparation for takeoff when the flight attendent came over to inform me that infants/toddlers were not allowed to be put in any child restaint if they were travelling on a parent's lap. She explained that it is a safety issue since the child would be squeezed if the parent had to go into the "safety position" (i.e. my head between my legs kissing my rear end goodbye.)

My wife, baby and I have flown several times before using the child carrier when no seat has been available for him. Was the flight attendent in error or were other attendents remiss in not advising us of the proper way to fly?

(Note: I think it is MUCH safer for him to be in a Baby Bjorn or similar travel carrier than having me hold him since the chances of going to the "safety position" are probably much lower than of us hitting turbulance that could cause me to have difficulty holding the baby.)

The Flight Crew: Here's a related question that ran in Travel Q&A last month. I think the flight attendant has the authority to call it.

Q We are flying to Europe with our 11/2-year-old and have purchased a seat for her. We are confused about the rules regarding car seat use on planes. United's Web site says we may bring a car seat, but when we called the airline, we were told we must use a car seat. I would like to take her FAA-approved car seat, but my husband is concerned about lugging it around. Does the airline rent them?

Inger Moran

Arlington

A You don't need a child restraint seat for children under age 2 on airplanes. Alison Duquett, a spokeswoman for the Federal Aviation Administration, said, "The FAA does not require parents to use a child restraint seat. However, we strongly encourage it."

Children under 2 can either sit on an adult's lap or in a separate seat, with or without a child-restraint system. During take-off and landing, the child must be either seated in your lap, or secured in a seatbelt, but the flight attendant has the authority to decide which is safer, according to United spokesman Jason Schechter.

The issue of whether children under 2 should be permitted to sit on parents' laps while flying has been debated for years. The American Academy of Pediatrics and the government's National Transportation Safety Board are among the groups who have been lobbying the FAA to mandate child-safety restraints aboard airliners. The FAA has responded by strongly recommending that parents use child-restraint systems but has not adopted the rule, citing arguments, including the results of a recent study, that conclude such a law may cause an increase in deaths if parents switch from air to car travel to avoid paying for the extra plane ticket. Most airlines offer discounts of up to 50 percent on seats for children under 2. Children in laps travel free.

Duquett noted that child-restraint seats must be government-approved for use on aircraft -- a statement to this effect will be printed on the seat if it is. Airlines, including United, do not rent car seats, but if you're driving during your vacation, the seat will be put to good use.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to Miami this weekend, and I can't wait to sit outside and soak up the sun! I'd also like to sightsee at least a little...what spots shouldn't I miss if I only have two days? I've been to south beach once, but I haven't seen any of mainland Miami...

Also, would it be a good use of one day to go to the Everglades? Is it an easy trip from Miami?

The Flight Crew: Wash, I highly recommend seeing the beautiful Vizcaya and Deering Estate. These are two really wonderful old mansion-museums that have to be seen to be believed. Gorgeous and evocative. It's also really fun to just wander around the very cool neighborhood of Coral Gables. Have a drink at the Baltimore -- it's fabulous, even if you can't afford to stay there. You say you've done South Beach, but it's always fun to soak up the scene and ogle the gorgeous Deco architecture. And yes, it's also an easy day trip from Miami to the Everglades. -- KC

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Boulder, Colo.: My favorite is Grand Teton National Park--why--b/c of its rugged beauty and also b/c it is often overlooked by the masses headed to Yellowstone. It seems to offer much more of an adventure and allow you to explore w/restriction. Best place to stay? Signal Mtn Lodge on Jackson Lake in the park. Rustic little cabins where there were moose and elk nearby daily. We played yahtzee every night on our porch until it got too dark.

The Flight Crew: Thanks!

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Washington, D.C.: My husband and I just got back from 5 days in Jackson, WY -- we spent one full day in Yellowstone, and I have to tell you it was one of the most amazing places I've ever been too. Everyone up there says winter is the best time to see it because of the lack of crowds and the fact that the cold emphasizes all of the geothermal features of the park. I'm sure it's beautiful in the summer too, but if I had to choose, I'd definitely go back in the winter. Wish the Post's article had run before our trip though!

The Flight Crew: Well, you'll just have to go back!

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Family trip to Miami: Most airlines have a group booking desk that you can call. Southwest does, and I have used it & found them to be most helpful. They should be able to get your family to FL for way less $$.

The Flight Crew: Thanks.

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Plano, Tex.: I am considering a (first-time) business trip to Shanghai in April. However, I am a little concerned about the various diseases (SARS & Bird Flu) being reported on. Any suggestions for making this a safe trip?

The Flight Crew: A good starting place is on the CDC's Web site (see www.cdc.gov/flu/avian), for all the nuts and bolts (or rather beaks and feathers?) of this disease. They also have helpful links to WHO, as well as info about SARS.
Basically, though, you shouldn't be afriad, just smart. Stay away from chicken farms and markets. Shanghai has not had any recent outbreaks of SARS, and no human illness related to the bird virus. Just eat lots of hamburgers!--andrea

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National Par, KS: When visting Olympic National Park last summer, we stayed at the Lake Crescent Lodge (www.lakecrescentlodge.com). It combined a rustic feeling (we stayed in the orignal 1916 lodge building) with modern conveniences (including a fine-dining restaurant that killed any biases I had against "lodge" food in a government-licenced hotel.) And the park has an amazing range of scenery. In a one-day hike we began in rain forests and by midday were picking our way across 10 foot deep snow drifts along the mountain ridge (in mid-July), looking down at the herds of moose in the valley below. You certainly couldn't make such a transition on foot anywhere else in the US (actually, it's the only rain forest in the continental US).

The Flight Crew: Hey, there. I love Lake Crescent Lodge...it's just the best. And so private! Thanks for your five cents.
-john

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Flight Crew!

I haven't had a chance to read the print story yet, but I've gotta say Yellowstone in the fall is awesome! It's my favorite National Park, and seeing it in the fall meant the aspens had turned yellow, there weren't many people around, and the colors of the fields, sky, and water were glorious. I highly recommend October to anyone who's thinking of going to Yellowstone.

The Flight Crew: Another vote for Yellowstone.... Hey, I'm really sorry Steve isn't here to answer your Yellowstone q's, but pls try again next week and we'll all pick his brain then.

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Washington, DC: Fave national park would have to be Volcano National Park on the big island of Hawaii. It truly is beautiful and quite peaceful, and far, far removed from the madness that is Miami Beach Part 2 - er, I mean Waikiki.

The Flight Crew: Another vote for Volcanoes NP. Love that place.

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Shenandoah, NP: I know it's close to home, but that's part of the reason I love it!; My dad used to take me every summer to Big Meadows Campground. We would watch the deer wander through the campground at dawn and dusk and tell scary stories at night about bears while making s'mores. Dark Hollow Falls was the very first waterfall I ever saw, and I'll never forget how amazing it looked, and how much fun it was to play in!;

The Flight Crew: Close to home, and still great. Thanks!

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Silver Spring, Md.: My favorite park has to be the Indiana Sand Dunes National Seashore on Lake Michigan. The sand is soft, the water warm, and there is a great visitor center. Some of my fondest memories are of building sand castles and "bathtubs" (sand pits filled with water warmed by the sun). My parents took us nearly every summer. Remember, not all national parks are out west!

The Flight Crew: Thanks, Silver.

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The Flight Crew: Arrgh, out of time again. Really sorry if we didn't get to your question -- we were inundated. It's so hard to pick two winners from among all the great posts this week, but the prizes go to the posters who wrote about John Pennekamp and Assateague. If you'll send your contact info to summersk@washpost.com, we'll send the prizes out to you. And try not to fight about the Ashton Kutcher DVD -- I'm sure you both want it. Till next week....

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