"Come with me," she said, "I'll show you the way."
Bart Beeson is a researcher in The Washington Post's Mexico City bureau.
Hop a bus in Oaxaca and head 40 miles to the United Villages, seven Mexican villages that are linked by hiking trails.
(Bart Beeson)
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Details: Oaxaca's United Villages
The Pueblos Mancomunados (United Villages) are about 40 miles from Oaxaca City. While not absolutely necessary, having some knowledge of Spanish will make the trip more enjoyable.
GETTING THERE: There are no direct flights from the Washington area to Oaxaca. Continental and United provide connecting service from D.C. to Oaxaca; round-trip fare starts at about $500, with restrictions. United and US Airways fly nonstop to Mexico City, from $322 round trip.
From Mexico City, you can take a bus to the United Villages from the city's eastern bus terminal, known as the TAPO. ADO (www.adogl.com.mx/home.asp) runs bus service, leaving every hour, for the 6 1/2-hour trip. A first-class ticket costs $28; a luxury bus, $33.
From Oaxaca, public buses travel to the United Villages for $2 each way, or you can take a cab for about $45.
TOURING THE VILLAGES: Expediciones Sierra Norte (011-52-951-5-14-82-71, www.sierranorte.org.mx), the tourist organization formed by the United Villages, can suggest an itinerary that best suits you and will reserve a private cabin or a bunk in the tourist lodge. It has an office (120-I M. Bravo St.) in the historic center of Oaxaca.
The organization, which charges a $4.50 general-access fee into the communities, will also notify each town that you're coming and if you'll need a guide or a mountain bike. Guides will lead you to another village or on day trips for $11 for up to five people. Guides are not mandatory but strongly recommended, particularly since some of the trails connecting the villages aren't well marked.
Tierraventura (011-52-951- 5011-363, www.tierraventura.com), in Oaxaca, organizes trips into the region complete with meals, lodging, transportation and an English-speaking guide for $68 per person per day; reserve at least a day in advance.
Oaxaca-based Bicicletas Pedro Martinez (011-52-951-514-5935, bicicletaspedromartinez.com) organizes bike tours of the region for about $100 per person per day. The tours include a one-day tour and a four-day tour offering hotel and camping accommodations, meals, snacks and an SUV escort.
WHERE TO STAY: Each of the seven towns has different lodgings -- on arriving in each place, a local guide will show you where they are -- but in general visitors choose between staying in a room with several bunk beds in the tourist lodge ($12 per person) or renting a private cabin that sleeps up to four people ($36 for the cabin). Rates are identical throughout the region. Both the private cabins and the lodges have bathrooms with hot water.
You can also arrange to have a guide show you to the designated camping areas outside of each town ($3.50 if you have your own tent, $3 to rent a tent).
WHERE TO EAT: Each town has one or two simple restaurants, either a storefront
establishment or a resident's kitchen. On arrival, guides will let you know what your options are. Most meals, costing about $4 per person, consist of local staples, such as quesadillas; tortillas with beans, cheese and avocado; or a chicken or beef dish. Restaurants sell cold soda and beer ($1). Each town will also have a simple local store where you can buy bottled water, sodas, beer and snacks.
INFORMATION: For info on the United Villages, contact Expediciones Sierra Norte (see above). For Oaxaca tourism: Sedetur, the state's official tourism agency in Oaxaca City, 011-52-951-516- 0123, oaxaca.gob.mx/sedetur (in Spanish). General info: Mexico Tourism Board, 800-44-MEXICO, www.visitmexico.com.
-- Bart Beeson
