Santa Duc Cairanne 2001 ($15, Kacher): Wonderful notes of grilled meat and red cherries, accented by nice traces of tobacco leaf and spices.
Domaine Montmartel Cotes du Rhone Villages 2003 ($11, Wines Ltd.): Dark and deeply flavored, but still fresh and lively.
Domaine de Montagnette Cotes du Rhone 2003 ($11.50, Hand Picked Selections): Ripe and juicy, this has a lovely rounded texture but also sufficient structure to remain balanced.
Domaine La Bouvaude Cotes du Rhone 2003 ($9, Kysela): Light in color but deceptively so, as this shows impressive depth of flavor.
Domaine Andre Brunel Cotes du Rhone "Cuvee Sommelongue" 2003 ($15, Kacher): Rounded and ripe, yet seriously endowed with intense black and red fruit notes.
VERY GOOD
La Font du Vent Cotes du Rhone "Les Promesses" 2003 ($11, Kacher): This packs a lot of power, but the dark fruit is lifted by bright, pure notes in the finish.
Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2001 ($12, Ex Cellars): Extraordinary aromas of fresh meat, tobacco leaf and wild mushrooms are backed up by solid, balanced fruit.
Reserve Grand Veneur (Alain Jaume) Cotes du Rhone 2003 ($9, Kysela): Bright, fresh, balanced and pure, this is a superior bargain.
Les Vignerons des Coteaux d'Avignon Cotes du Rhone "Cuvee Selectionnee par Kermit Lynch" 2003 ($14, Kermit Lynch): Complex and complete, deep and gutsy.
J. Vidal Fleury Cotes du Rhone 2001 ($12, W. J. Deutsch): Sweet and soft, with mature aromas and flavors that show no sign of cracking up anytime soon.
ALSO RECOMMENDED
Santa Duc Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes 2001 ($12, Kacher); Domaine Bosquet des Papes Cotes du Rhone 2001 ($10, Touton); Domaine Montmartel Cotes du Rhone 2003 ($9, Wines Ltd.); Andre Brunel Cotes du Rhone Domaine de l'Enclos 2003 ($9, Kacher); Domaine Grand Veneur Cotes du Rhone Villages "Les Champauvins" 2002 ($13, Kysela).
