The Pueblos Mancomunados (United Villages) are about 40 miles from Oaxaca City. While not absolutely necessary, having some knowledge of Spanish will make the trip more enjoyable.
GETTING THERE: There are no direct flights from the Washington area to Oaxaca. Continental and United provide connecting service from D.C. to Oaxaca; round-trip fare starts at about $500, with restrictions. United and US Airways fly nonstop to Mexico City, from $322 round trip.
From Mexico City, you can take a bus to the United Villages from the city's eastern bus terminal, known as the TAPO. ADO (www.adogl.com.mx/home.asp) runs bus service, leaving every hour, for the 6 1/2-hour trip. A first-class ticket costs $28; a luxury bus, $33.
From Oaxaca, public buses travel to the United Villages for $2 each way, or you can take a cab for about $45.
TOURING THE VILLAGES: Expediciones Sierra Norte (011-52-951-5-14-82-71, www.sierranorte.org.mx), the tourist organization formed by the United Villages, can suggest an itinerary that best suits you and will reserve a private cabin or a bunk in the tourist lodge. It has an office (120-I M. Bravo St.) in the historic center of Oaxaca.
The organization, which charges a $4.50 general-access fee into the communities, will also notify each town that you're coming and if you'll need a guide or a mountain bike. Guides will lead you to another village or on day trips for $11 for up to five people. Guides are not mandatory but strongly recommended, particularly since some of the trails connecting the villages aren't well marked.
Tierraventura (011-52-951- 5011-363, www.tierraventura.com), in Oaxaca, organizes trips into the region complete with meals, lodging, transportation and an English-speaking guide for $68 per person per day; reserve at least a day in advance.
Oaxaca-based Bicicletas Pedro Martinez (011-52-951-514-5935, bicicletaspedromartinez.com) organizes bike tours of the region for about $100 per person per day. The tours include a one-day tour and a four-day tour offering hotel and camping accommodations, meals, snacks and an SUV escort.
WHERE TO STAY: Each of the seven towns has different lodgings -- on arriving in each place, a local guide will show you where they are -- but in general visitors choose between staying in a room with several bunk beds in the tourist lodge ($12 per person) or renting a private cabin that sleeps up to four people ($36 for the cabin). Rates are identical throughout the region. Both the private cabins and the lodges have bathrooms with hot water.
You can also arrange to have a guide show you to the designated camping areas outside of each town ($3.50 if you have your own tent, $3 to rent a tent).
WHERE TO EAT: Each town has one or two simple restaurants, either a storefront
establishment or a resident's kitchen. On arrival, guides will let you know what your options are. Most meals, costing about $4 per person, consist of local staples, such as quesadillas; tortillas with beans, cheese and avocado; or a chicken or beef dish. Restaurants sell cold soda and beer ($1). Each town will also have a simple local store where you can buy bottled water, sodas, beer and snacks.
INFORMATION: For info on the United Villages, contact Expediciones Sierra Norte (see above). For Oaxaca tourism: Sedetur, the state's official tourism agency in Oaxaca City, 011-52-951-516- 0123, oaxaca.gob.mx/sedetur (in Spanish). General info: Mexico Tourism Board, 800-44-MEXICO, www.visitmexico.com.
-- Bart Beeson
