Talk About Travel

Kuala Lumpur, Orlando dining, spiritual destinations...

The Flight Crew, from left: John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs. (Melissa Cannarozzi - for The Post)

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

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The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Gary Lee: Gary Lee here at the helm on this chilly wet Easter Monday. We have a small but eager crew here to field your every question and otherwise entertain you. Besides yours truly, here's who's on hand: KC Summers, editor of the Post Travel section; John Deiner, the deputy editor; Carol Sottili, the staff writer extraordinaire and Anne Mcdonough, staff reseacher.

By now you're surely familiar with the drill: you've got questions; we got answers. But we don't know EVERYTHING. In case we can't answer a question or you have other thoughts, jump in there with them!

On this Easter Monday, I was wondering if any of you have spiritual travel expereiences to share. Any spiritual retreats you can recommend? Or spiritual places that moved you such as the National Tropical Botanical Gardens in Kuaui or a church or other place of worship that you can recommend to travelers. The best and most original answer gets a prize.

Gary Lee: Here we go!

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Gary Lee: I neglected to mention in my intro that today's prize is a great one: "America's Legendary Highways," a coffee table book about Route 66, etc published and provided to us by MBI Publishing Co.

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Reston, Va: Bachelorette party in Vegas and Im restricted to leaving Fri late afternoon to Sunday late night/Mon early morning due to work. Dates are July 15-17. Im having some trouble finding decent fares. Everything I see is around $300+ with a layover!; Is this the average price for the summer or should I expect fares to drop???

John Deiner: Hey, Reston. Seems a little expensive to my eyes. Have you tried Southwest or Independence yet? I'd hate to say that yes, fares will go down, but I've never paid 300+ to get to Vegas with layovers, so I'm guessing either something is better out there now or will be. Also check America West.

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Raleigh, NC: Do you have any recommendations of reputable companies for tours to India? Ideally, I'd like to find one that's kind of a "taste of India" type tour and one that isn't extremely expensive (though I realize it won't be cheap). Any guidance you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Carol Sottili: One tour operator that comes to mind is Sita Tours - www.sitatours.com. Also, take a look at India's Ministry of Tourism site, www.tourisminindia.com. Anyone out there have experience with a specific tour operator?

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Danville, Va.: Hi folks. Husband and I are headed to Paris in a few weeks and really looking forward to it! IT was a spur-of-the-moment trip and we're trying to make a hotel decision. We have booked a hotel very near Gare du Nord, but after booking it I began to get a little worried that the neighborhood might be a little seedy. I have visited Montmartre before but I haven't been to Gare Du Nord. Any advice? It will be 2 adults and a two-year-old, so we're not lookng for nightlife, just a good price.

Gary Lee: The Gare du Nord area is okay, not the most pleasant but not seedy. I like the Istria, near the metro Raspail. Any body else have good Paris hotel tips?

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Saguaro Nat'l Park report: I had occasion to be in Tucson this weekend and made some time to walk through both sides of Saguaro National Park. It's very pretty right now, with lots of flowers in bloom, but it should be spectacular in a few weeks---all of the cactus were getting ready to bloom!;

KC Summers: Isn't that a fantastic park?! The cactus are pretty spectacular any time of year, but this should be spectacular. Thanks for the update.

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Washington, DC: My most spiritual place was being at the top of the Champs Elysees when the Tour de France rolls through at 30 miles an hour with Lance in the maillot jaune

Gary Lee: I like it! Really! But can you explain a bit more about what made it spiritual?

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Providence, R.I.: How's Puerto Rico for a January honeymoon destination? Interested specifically in Vieques and some of the more secluded areas/islands, but any advice will do. Thanks.

Gary Lee: I think Vieques, with its quiet beaches and small B&Bs, would make a great honeymoon spot. Anybody else have thoughts about Puerto Rico as a post wedding destination?

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Spiritual Place: My easy nomination is Muir Woods in the San Francisco Bay area. For a much visited location, it is amazing the feeling of solitude you achieve as soon as you are even a short distance from the parking lot. The huge trees provide a sense of peace and serenity, a sense of the ages and a greater power beyond any place manmade or natural I have ever experienced.

Gary Lee: Thanks for that lovely tip. It puts you in the running for a prize!

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Clifton, Va.: We're considering a river barge in France in August, either joining a barge cruise, or self-skippered. Any advice? We have a ten-year-old girl who's taking French; no wine-specific tours tho we enjoy it.

Carol Sottili: I'd probably go the self-skippered route with a 10-year-old, or I'd hire out the entire boat. Most barge cruises that take unrelated people don't take children, or, even when they do, she'll probably be the only child. Here's a good place to start your research: www.francetourism.com/practicalinfo/barging.htm

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Princeton, NJ: For last week's Washingtonian going to Rome in late May..great advice from Gary...bus tour gives you lay of the city as well .everyone knows the highlights...Coliseum, Forum, Parthenon, Vatican(go first thing in the morning to beat the bus tours) etc...but don't miss the unexpected jewels of Rome to me..the beauty of the small Baroque churches...these incredibles chapels like Santa Maria della Vittoria with its Bernini sculpture of St. Teresa, San Luigi dei Francesi with its Caravaggios of St. Matthew and Santa Maria del Popolo with Raphaels' angels peering beck down at you from the dome of the Chigi Chapel are worth the trip to Rome all by themselves...after devoting a day to these my wife and I were so moved we held hands and exchanged our vows again...Rome will do that to you...

Gary Lee: Thanks. Sounds like you had your own spiritual experience there.

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Rockville, Md: For those who've been to yunnan, china, i'd like to hear about your most fun experience there. I know where i wanna go, but i don't know how long i should stay in kunming, dali, lijiang, and shangri-la. thanks.

Anne McDonough: I really enjoyed Kunming because after four weeks in Beijing in February it was the first green I'd seen in China. But if you spend two days there, you've seen it all (I know that's begging for a contradiction from a clickster but it wasn't a place that really grabbed my attention-though the Stone Forest is a fun day trip). Dali and Lijiang are better places to spend longer amounts of time; when I was there, Lijiang was much more developed than Dali was. If you have the time and would like a little adventure, try doing the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek; missing that was one of my biggest regrets on that trip, and from what I've read, it's rapidly changing. Any recent visitors to Yunnan want to post?

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Grown Up Orlando?: Do you have any recommendations for a 3 star and up dining experience in Orlando, near Disney? My BF and I are going to FL in May and I want to take her out for a beautiful, non-kiddie related dinner (ie no theme characters serving beans out of a kettle)...Any ideas??

John Deiner: Hey, GUO. Most of the highways leading to the park (and Universal for that matter) are so Denny's-fied you'd be hard pressed to find anything close to "fine dining" along the route. That said, you could do far worse than eat at any of Disney's chichi offerings, either in the parks themselves or the nicer resorts. Most take reservations, and the more you're willing to pay, the fewer children you'll find. Also, Univeral CityWalk has some pretty nice restaurants within, though I'm not aware of any white-table-cloth establishments. Downtown Orlando is hopping these days--lots of nice restaurants and bars there.

Anyone out there with some specifics? (I usually stick to the Denny's!!)

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Bethesda, Md: Gary, I think I've seen this mentioned in these chats before, but an interesting spiritual spot to visit when in that part of the world is the Hill of Crosses in northern Lithuania. It's a small hill with literally millions of crosses, large and small. Many are beautiful works of art, carved from wood, or made from metal. The site had crosses placed on it already at the end of the 19th century, and the number of crosses just grew over the years. When Lithuania was illegally occupied by Soviets in the 40s, the Hill took on a different meaning, particularly when the Soviets tried to destroy it. Every time they did, new crosses would immediately appear.

Gary Lee: I like this idea. I missed this on previous visits to Lithuania but will move it to the top of my list.

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Washington, D.C.: A SPECIAL PLACE
A bit over 35 years ago, my Dad sent my sister and I to his hometown in Jabing (Burgenland) Austria - we were 11 and 21 - as his mother's 80th birthday present. On that Easter Sunday in the tiny village church I tried to hold back the tears as his mother, brother and wife, cousins and friends celebrated the occasion at mass. They were so proud of the former black sheep of the family (he once broke a buddy's sled that the boy's dad had made because he wouldn't let Daddy ride it)who had gone to America at 16, enlisted in the Navy and wound up owning a bakery. The memory of the simplicity of the church, congregation singing and the Latin/German mass while we privately thanked Daddy for his gift is unforgettable to me.

Gary Lee: Thanks for sharing this moment. It may win you this week's prize.

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Annandale, Va.: I think I'm running into something that the Travel Crew has mentioned numerous times. Specifically, I'm am have trouble using United miles to obtain a Saver award flight. United has 2 levels of awards, Saver and Standard. Saver requires fewer miles but has more restrictions than the Standard awards. I have been looking down the road to using my 100,000 plus miles to get a Saver business class flight to Australia in September with no luck. Now I know that's quite a bit in the future, so I tried to get a saver award flight to Minneapolis for June with the same result. Needless to say, I can get Standard awards in both cases, but the flight to Australia will cost me 40,000 additional miles. Is this the result of the financial difficulties the airlines are facing, is this unique to United and is this the pretty much what's to be expected from now on?

Thanx

Carol Sottili: Frequent flier tickets on all the airlines are usually snapped up as soon as the flight schedule becomes available, which is about 330 days before the flight. The airlines don't tell us exactly how many seats they make available on each flight for frequent fliers, but it's only a handful at the saver level. So flights that cost a lot of money, or flights to cities that are served by only a few flights daily will go really fast. Your situation is not unique to United.

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Gites?: Hi there,

Is anyone familiar with renting gites in France? Would you suggest it? What are the benefits? I'd love to hear your thoughts on that. We're thinking of renting a home in Provence either in early or late summer.

Thanks!;

Anne McDonough: Coming up is a link to last year's article about renting gites, hopefully that will give you some ideas.

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washingtonpost.com: At Home in France, (Feb. 22, 2004)

Anne McDonough: Thanks, Kim!

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Washington, DC: Re: spiritual Champs...

Ever since 1986 when Lemond rode a bike to to the Tour victory, I've been wanting to see and be a part of that cycling history. This is one of the meccas for any cycling fan. It's breath taking seeing the cyclists in mlti color jerseys flying by you at over 30 miles per hours. Over 1 million people from different countries line the streets of Paris to gaze at these spectacular athletes. Makes you feel like a part of the world.

It's like people seeing Wrigley Field, or Lambeau Stadium and saying it's spiritual.

Oh, and the Dutch can REALLY party!;

Gary Lee: Okay, I get it. Thanks.

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A different kind of spiritual: Okay, might be a bit unusual (and I'm a bit impartial being a grad), but a sunny, warm football game under the Golden Dome of Notre Dame is an experience not to be missed!;!;!; The sense of history and traditions, watching a wide mix of generations interact with one another...it really is something to be seen. I have been all over, but the sense of family and belonging makes this a spiritual trip of a different sort.

Gary Lee: That's a nice thought and an original one. It puts you in the running for the prize...

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Capitol Hill, Washington, DC: Hi there!; Loved the non-Euro Europe piece last week as headed to Budapest in mid-April!; Here's my question--looking for a decently nice, well-located hotel/hostel (private room for 2) in Budapest... for less than $50-$60/night. Am i totally out of my mind? Would love some feedback. Thanks!;

Gary Lee: It seems to me from my earlier trips to Budapest that the price is possible. I haven't been recently enough to have specific suggesions, though. Can anyone recommend budget lodging in Budapest?

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Washington, DC: Any must-do's when visiting the South Rim of the Grand Canyon?

John Deiner: Yes. Do EVERYTHING. It's wonderful. You could spend hours just staring down, it's so wonderful.

Seriously, though, we're not all hikers, and we all don't have the wherewithal for the donkey ride, but make sure you at least hike a little of the way down into the canyon. There's a sign telling us lightweights when it's a good time to turn around. It just gives you a real good sense of the size of the thing. Also, try to take in a meal at the El Tovar--if you don't want to spring for dinner, breakfast there is great. Don't bypass the visitors center, either--it's fascinating and really puts everything into perspective. Finally, don't just stick around the main tourist zone. Hop on one of the buses that head along the rim and stop at the other overlooks, particularly at sunset.

Other ideas?

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Arlington, Va.: For the spiritual, try White Sands national park outside Las Cruces, NM. The blinding whiteness of gypsum up to the mountainscape puts you at an immediate peace. And if you do it during the week, the solitude is all too real.

Gary Lee: Thanks, nice suggestion!

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Re: hotel in Paris: I'm not really familiar with the Gard du Nord area, but the couple with the small child may want to consider renting an apt with a kitchen. You can store snacks for the little one that way, and some have washer/dryers, which are always useful. If you're staying a week or more, it's worth looking into.

Gary Lee: That's a good idea. Check out Parisnet.net for suggestions.

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Bethesda, Md: I think that a very spiritual experience is visiting the place where your ancestors are from. My parents left their country in 1944. My mom had lived on a farm with her family; when I visited it for the first time as an 18 yr old, I felt an immediate and rather spiritual connection with the land that my grandparents, great-grandparents and great-great-grandparents had lived and worked on.

Gary Lee: Thanks...where was this?

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Washington, D.C.: A few weeks ago i asked your opinion about using www.tripadvisor.com as a reliable source of info for selecting a bed and breakfast for a weekend getaway. You reassured me that i could rely on the veracity of the comments especially if there were a wide range of comments over a period of time.Well your advice was right on. We decided to spend this past weekend at the inn at sugar hollow farm just outside Charlottesville and despite the soggy weather, we had a great time. The tripadvisor comments reaffirmed what the innkeepers say on their website in addition to giving further insight as to the"atmosphere"of the inn.My bottom line is that after reviewing 10-15 of the tripadvisor comments on the inn at sugar hollow and you feel this place will work for you then you won't be disappointed. Now for a new observation. While enjoying our breakfast sunday morning at the family style table at the inn the conversation turned to how each of us had learned about sugar hollow.As you might predict it was almost all from the net and from tourism directories or Google searches.No one in this group had heard about tripadvisor except us.But the comment was made as to how little is ever said about the bed and breakfast industry in the Post Travel Section for the mid-atlantic area. Except, of course, a recent article about an obscure b and b near Charlottesville that caters to folks on a vegan diet. All of us around the table agreed that not only would we never go to a place that focused on such a limited concept but also we don't know anyone who would. So all of this brings me to this point. A brilliant topic for an article in the Travel Section would be about inns that focus on what the vast majority of travelers want, say for a country setting or a small town setting or an urban setting linked to feedback on tripadvisor .com. Research for such an article would be a breeze.Just go onto tripadvisor to see who is getting comments and interview the innkeepers as to why they think travellers react the way they do. I will predict that the diversity of info would result in an article that will capture the true nature of the industry and not just about one inn that is out in left field with a snow shovel. Looking fordward to your response

KC Summers: Well! I don't know where to start. We do like Tripadvisor and use it ourselves, and have recommended it often -- with the caveat that since you don't know who the reviewers are and what their biases are, you have to take everything with a lot of grains of salt, look for patterns, etc.

I think there's also a place for signed travel articles that do a more thorough, professional job of reviewing a place. In other words, by all means use Tripadvisor, but check out other sources as well, such as your friendly neighborhood travel section.

We do, actually, write frequently about B&Bs, the vegan-friendly place being the most recent example (and there are a lot of folks out there who were glad to see that article!). We've written about farm-stay B&Bs, winery B&Bs, romantic B&Bs, city B&Bs, and B&Bs that are an hour from the Beltway -- sorry that you missed all these. Many of our inn pieces run on the Wednesday Escapes page (which we produce) in Style, since that focuses on regional destinations. But we feature a lot of theme in Sunday Travel as well. You can search our (free) archives by going to Travel's home page and clicking on "Activities," then "More activities," then "Lodging." Or look under Maryland and Virginia in our states listings.

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Arlington, Va.: We need to travel to NYC for a wedding over Memorial Day weekend (Fri - Mon). We have made this trip dozens of times by car (when necessary), by train and by plane. Usually, we can find some reasonable fares ($150 pp RT, or thereabouts) by traveling at off-peak hours. But, this time I am finding only fares of $200-$250 pp RT on both the Delta and USAirways shuttles and Amtrak. Have fares increased that much? Am I missing something?

I have seen discussions about RT bus service on Greyhound/Peter Pan for about $50 pp RT. My own recollections from my college days of intercity bus travel includes some "iffy" service and meeting some pretty funky people in the backs of some of those buses. Has that changed? Are these buses worth a shot?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

Anne McDonough: I go back to NY frequently and unless I'll be there for less than 24 hours, I pretty much am wedded to taking the bus cause it's just so darn cheap. Check out www.ivymedia.com for schedules for almost all of the cheap ($20 one way/$35 roundtrip) bus companies running between Washington and New York (several have stops outside of the District as well). Greyhound matches their prices as well, though I've stuck with the independent companies and in doing so have run into folks of all kinds though so far no funky ones. On a holiday weekend, however...the roads will be packed and the trip will be loonnnng. While Amtrak raises its fares on holidays and generally goes all-reserved as well, for a wedding weekend it may be well worth it.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi Travel Experts! Heading to San Diego this Thursday and am staying until Wed. The trip is for business, but I'm bringing a friend to stay for weekend. What are the main things we and I (when she leaves)should hit while there? I'm staying in the Gaslamp quarter and want to head to the zoo and Mexico if possbile? What do you think?

Carol Sottili: I'm going there on the following Friday, staying in the Gaslamp Quarter, and I'm hoping that it won't be raining! I'm going to take in a Padre game (you can walk to the stadium from the Gaslamp Quarter); shop at Seaport Village; rent bikes at Mission Bay and cruise the boardwalk; take a drive up to La Jolla to eat, shop and watch the seals; maybe go into Mexico to my favorite seaside town of Puerto Nuevo for lobster dinner; and say hi to the quite adorable panda at the zoo. Readers will shortly email us with many more suggestions, which I will post. If you're going into Mexico past Tijuana, make sure you rent a car that allows that.

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Ballston, Va: We'll be visiting northern Europe this summer and were planning to spend 3 nights/2 full days in each of Berlin, Copenhagen, and Oslo. It now appears that we'll have to shorten our stay in one of these cities to 2 nights. Which city could be most easily covered in one full day?

As for the religious question, the Grotto in northeast Portland, Oregon, has beautiful grounds for strolling and is very close to the airport. The visitor center, reached via a 10-story elevator, has a glass wall with a view of the Columbia River gorge.

Gary Lee: Thanks for your idea about the grotto. All the cities where you're headed are great but Olso is the one I think could be most easily covered in a day.

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spiritual place: Russian Orthodox church across Red Square from the Kremlin (Not Basil) - I am awful with names. Beautiful, small and pretty quaint for a city church, but it was such a wonderful reminder that throughout the oppression of communism, there stood a symbol of religion across from the place that sought to destroy it, but never did. Very moving.

Gary Lee: Having lived in Moscow in the communist period and visited the church frequently, I know what you mean...Thanks for the suggestion.

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Long Beach, Calif.: Hi--I'm new to the chat so this may be answered every other week, but I hope you can help anyway. My parents recently moved from close-in Bethesda to far-out (at least by Bethesda standards) Silver Spring (vicinity of 29 and the Beltway). I am taking Jet Blue when I visit them (goes from Long Beach so no LAX, a VERY good thing), which of course only flied to Dulles. What are my options for ground transport from Dulles, at, say 4:30? If necessary I could do a two-part deal--say a shuttle to a hotel and then a cab--but I'm not sure how many S.S. area hotels would be on the route for a shuttle. Any ideas would be most welcome.

John Deiner: Hey, Long Beach.

Silver Spring is actually smack dab on the Red Line of the D.C. subway system, so all you need to do is get to the Metro from Dulles.

Buses depart from the airport to the West Falls Church (Va.) Metro station every 30 minutes. From there you can take a connecting train out to Silver Spring, where there will be ample cabs to take you to Mom and Dad's or your hotel. Cabbing it straight from the airport will set you back at least 50 bucks, I think, and at 4:30 you'll be in the middle of nasty traffic (and, yes, crowded Metro trains). Check www.metwashairports.com/Dulles/ground.htm for more.

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Also heading to France!;: Flying into Paris, but will have a week before our apartment is available there. The plan is to fly into CDG, take the train to somewhere south (Avignon, maybe), then rent a car to go to a few places before going to Paris. Would it be too much to get off the plane and then onto a train to? Is there something near the airport to do the first day we get there so we aren't jumping right off the plane onto the train?

Gary Lee: I don't think there's too much to see out by DeGaulle except for IKEA, but that's not what you had in mind. Either take an RER into the city and go to Notre Dame, then head south by train or just get right on the train at the airport. By the way, my French friends tell me that Marseilles is the new hot French city. It also now easily reachable by train from Paris...

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Charlottesville, Va.: I need to buy flight tickets to LA or Ontario, CA for sometime mid-May. Any tips on how to get the best deals, when to travel, etc.? I'm also a student - does that qualify for special savings? I'm a bit of a dunce at this.

Carol Sottili: If your'e willing to leave from Washington, try Independence Air (www.flyi.com) - it offers 20 percent discounts to college students. Also, try Airtran (www.airtran.com) - it offers X-Fares to college students, which are basically cheaper standby seats.

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Washington, DC: To your reader heading to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon - definately don't miss a sunset meal at the El Tovar Restaurant. It was one of my best meals ever!; But you need to make reservations WAY in advance - so book now!;

On a separate note, any suggestions for a tour company to see Australia in late fall. I'm looking for a relatively small group tour (no more than 20 people). Thanks!;

John Deiner: Thanks for the South Rim tip, D.C.

As far as the Aussie tour, we're going to throw that out to the e-gang for assistance.

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Disney Dining: Victoria and Albert's in the Grand Floridian does a
nice multi-course prix fixe meal. Elegant dining, a
relaxed atmosphere, and excellent service. (And
even though it's in The World, not a crying baby in
the place...)

John Deiner: I've heard GREAT things about that restaurant . . . thanks for the report.

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Re: visiting ancestors's country: My parents are from Latvia.
Another spiritual experience I just thought of - celebrating summer solstice in Northern Europe (for example, in Latvia or Sweden). There is something to be said for staying up all night partying in front of a huge bonfire on the shortest night of the year and seeing the sun rise. Nowadays that most of us are not connected with the land in the way many of our ancestors were (such as my farming grandparents), it's a nice way to reconnect with the natural world.

Gary Lee: I like this idea a lot. I loved rafting near Kiruna, Sweden during the period of the midnight sun...

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Spritual place: I agree with the post about Muir Woods that the huge-ness of nature can make us humble. For me, though, I get that feeling under water. There is no feeling like floating weightless 90 feet under the surface and seeing the sun so far above and a sheer wall of coral drop hundreds of feet below you until it is out of view. The life that teems there ranges from the microscopic and delicate to the giant and graceful. For me, I don't have to be religious to be spritual there.

Gary Lee: Nice thought. As an amateur diver, I can relate well to this idea...

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Arlington, Va.: Spiritual Experience:

Porthmeor Beach in St. Ives, Cornwall, England at midnite the summer I was 18. The tide was out, the beach was seemed to stretch forever, the sky was completely blanketed with stars, there was a warm breeze, I was with newfound friends, and I was 18 living on my own in Cornwall for the summer! It doesn't get much more spiritual than that.

Sigh...

Gary Lee: Oh, how wonderful. Thanks for sharing that...

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Rockville, Md: Anne, thanks for the suggestion. I plan to backpack yunnan on my own, is it safe there at night, any reputable and reasonable hotels that you recommend? thanks.

Anne McDonough: I stayed in guesthouses that cost about a dollar a night and never once felt unsafe or like my stuff was at risk (taking all the normal backpacking precautions like not actually having anything of value other than my camera, etc); every place I stayed was found in the Lonely Planet book-I think in Dali it was Guesthouse #4, which had a great 6-bunk dorm room, a cute little courtyard and 24-hour hot water. In Lijiang it was even nicer--can't, though, remember the name of it now. But it was the second-cheapest place in the LP (first was full, tough luck).

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Most Spiritual Trip: Delphi, Greece. In an astonishingly beautiful setting one may contemplate a place considered by the ancients to be the center of the world. Pilgrims came from all over the known world to pose questions to the oracles at their sanctuary at the foot of Mount Parnassus. There is an other-worldly feeling to this day. No one should miss it.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the idea...

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Dallas, Tex.: I'm taking my boyfriend to Chicago to visit some friends of his for his 40th birthday at the end of May. I'd like to take him (and his friends) to a special dinner to celebrate -- any ideas? I know this might be better suited to Sietsema's chat but I though you or the clicksters might have some good recommendations. Thanks!

Gary Lee: If you like Mexican food, one idea is Frontera Grille. It's fun and festive, has great food and won't break your bank..

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Burke, Va.: One of the most spiritual places that I've visited was the basilica in Vatican City. Although I loved the inside with the sculptures and reverence, it wasn't until we climbed the 400+ steps to the top and stood on top of that beautiful building and looked out onto all of Rome. It was a cloudless warm day in Spring with the wind blowing, the Vatican Gardens were blooming, and the silence was more overwhelming than in the church itself. It's one of those memories that brings calm and relaxation even years later.

Gary Lee: Thanks for that thought...

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Athiests/Spiritualists: As an avowed Athiest, I thought, did I ever have a spiritual moment? Of course, it involved Guinness. I sat in a folding chair with a cooler of Guinness on the top of some cliffs at Schoodic Point, ME. The sun was setting, it was early September, no one else drove by & I realized that I felt happiness in every pore. I also think I'll be feeling spiritual in Paris this July watching Le Tour.

Gary Lee: Okay, I'm with you. Out of interest, how many Guinesses did it take to get you there?

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Clinton, Md: PLEASE HELP FLIGHT CREW

Can you please, please give me your top five family beaches that are within driving distance from the D.C. area? Your advice is always helpful and in this case would resolve a family dilemma about summer vacation. THANKS A MILLION.

KC Summers: HI CLINTON. We're lucky to have such a wide variety of beaches within driving distance. Here's a family-friendly Top 5:

1. North Carolina's Outer Banks -- from Nag's Head to Duck to the little towns down by Hatteras, you can't go wrong. It's laid-back and gorgeous. About 5.5 hours from the Beltway.

2. Bethany Beach, Del., with lots of single-family houses and condos. It's quieter than nearby Ocean City and Rehoboth -- although even those can work great for families who like a little action. (Even those who stay in Bethany make the trek to the O.C. boardwalk.) Three hours.

3. Virginia Beach. Nice wide beach, lively boardwalk, beautiful state parks, bike trails and great shopping. And dolphins! Four hours.

4. Chincoteague, Va. -- if you like rustic, this is for you -- fabulous wild beaches, and there's that great Misty of C. connection. Four hours.

5. Ocean City, N.J. -- it's a dry beach and very kid-oriented, with charming old houses, old-fashioned ice cream shops and a nice boardwalk. Their fourth of July parade is legendary. Four hours.

AND YOU'RE WELCOME!

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RE: Bus to NY: I go back and forth between NY and DC all the time, and I used to take the Chinatown buses. Now that Greyhound/Peter Pan matches their prices, though, I usually go with that. I think that the service is more reliable (it always leaves on time, unlike the Chinatown buses), and they leave a lot more frequently. I would recommend, though, that the wedding-going folks try to get a Peter Pan bus--I think they tend to be nicer and newer than greyhound.

Anne McDonough: I'm not a fan of coming into or leaving from the DC's Greyhound station, and Peter Pan and Greyhound codeshare so as far as I know there's no guarantee that you'd get one company over the other. But I agree with you on the fact that the buses do leave more often, so if the timing of the Chinatown or any other other cheap bus companies like Vamoose or Washington Deluxe don't work, it's certainly an option.

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3-star Orlando: Try Victoria and Albert's at the Grand Floridian Resort at Walt Disney World. Absolutely amazing service in a small adults only, jacket required place. 7 courses runs about $300 without drinks. Reservations (with deposit) are required.

Also Emeril's in Universal City Walk and Wolfgang Puck's in Downtown Disney. These two are a little 'common' but definately upscale.

John Deiner: Another round of applause for Victoria and Albert's, and "common" is okay, as long as the food is good, right?

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Fairfax, Va.: I am interested in Cruising Advice. I have a 12-year-old son and my wife and I would like to take a family cruise this year. I was concerned that the theme and activities on the Disney boat would be too little for him. Do you have any recommended family cruise lines and what would be the best time to go this year to keep expenses down?

Carol Sottili: I think Disney makes a concerted effort to provide activities for 'tweens, although the age group is 10-12, so if your son is an older 12, he may feel like it's too babyish. It's a good family line. With a 12-year-old, however, I'd probably go on one of Royal Caribbean's Voyager class ships - they divide age groups into 12-14. The ships offer rock-climbing walls, ice-skating, full-court basketball, etc. Here are the activities the line offers for that age group: Battle of the Sexes
Dancing Under the Stars
Learn to be a DJ
Toga Party
Talent Show
The 411
Karaoke
Pool Party
The Quest
Sports Tournaments
Scavenger Hunts
Karake
College Night
Video Game Challenge

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Tysons Corner, Va.: My most spiritual travel experience came at a spot close to home: the old church in Jamestown where the House of Burgesses first met. Knowing it was the birthplace of democracy in our country gave it a special kind of vibe and I felt so awed to be there.

Gary Lee: I love this idea and it definitely puts you on the prize list...

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Falls Church, Va.: Hey Crew,

Hope you're staying dry! I was looking for some info on Malta. I have a business trip there and want to make it into a vacation with my husband, but to do so, we need to cash in our babysitting chips with the grandparents. I have heard that while not on the Euro, Malta is pricey, and I'm not sure what there is to see and do or for how many days. So I am having trouble getting a sense of whether it is worth it. Your thoughts?

John Deiner: Hey, Falls. I went to Malta a couple of years ago and think it's definitely worth a visit--I loved the place, though it's a little earthier than the rest of Europe. I spent a week there and would love to go back, and I was never bored. In my experience, you can go first class and spend a fortune, or stay at the non-mega-resorts and eat at the smaller local restaurants, ride the buses and explore on your own (instead of booking unnecessary, expensive guided day tours)and have a great time for a reasonable cost. Remember that the beaches aren't so hot, so it won't be a big surf vacation, and if you want to reallllly get away from it all, hop on a ferry to Gozo, Malta's sleepy sister island.

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washingtonpost.com: Malta Is Easy, (June 15, 2003)

John Deiner: and here's that piece . . .

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budapest rooms: When I was there, I rented a private room from a woman I met at the train station. Very nice, cheap, located in Pest--walking distance to major sites. You have to use your instinct with this, but I have never had a bad experience. An alternative is to contact a tourist office who arrange private accomodations.

Gary Lee: Thanks... Good idea.

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Washington, DC: One of the most spiritual places I've been is the Scavi underneath St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. Our tour guide led us through the excavation, telling the story of the necropolis and early Christians in such a way that it was impossible not to be pulled in. She gave the debate over where St. Peter is buried a sense of mystery and excitement -- and when she pointed to the place most scholars believe him to be buried, the entire group was in awe. It was a feeling of connectedness to the past, to our spiritual forefathers and mothers, and a sense of the power of faith continuing through the ages. I had a similar feeling at the catacombs outside the city!;

Gary Lee: That's a nice thought. Thanks!

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Tysons Corner, Va.: Three years ago, two of my girlfriends and I stayed at a hotel very close to Gare Du Nord while we traveling around Europe after studying abroad. We had no problems.

Gary Lee: Thanks for that insight...

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Frederick, Md.: My most spiritual moment was during a safari drive in Kenya one evening. The sun was setting and at one point the sunlight reflected off of a lake and cast shadows against the baboon and impala that were together at the water's edge. The trees and vegetation at the spot was lush and the whole scene was one to never be forgotten. While we were watching the setting sun, our driver reminded us how great God was.

Gary Lee: Neat. We like that one!

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Arlington, Va.: Going out on a diving boat on the Great Barrier Reef (not one of those huge monstrosities) and a pod of humpbacks surfaces near us (too near us -- boats have to maintain a certain distance from whales, captain had to try to get us away from the whales as they kept moving nearer and nearer to us). Anyway, we watch this show of the whales breeching the water, slapping the water with their fins for ages -- classic stuff; one of the crew members is hanging on to me so I can hang off the side of the boat to try to get better pictures. I am not religious and this amazing display was probably the closest thing to a spiritual experience I'll ever have. The grace and majesty of these creatures was truly awe-inspiring.

Gary Lee: Nice original take on this subject. Thanks.

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Leesburg, Va: Hi - would you expect airfare from the DC area to Cancun to get cheaper over the summer? Right now it's in the $500 per range and I wonder if that's the best it will ever be.
Thanks!;

John Deiner: Hey, Lees. Have you tried USA 3000 out of Baltimore yet? One-way fares start at $99, and I just checked the site (www.usa3000.com), and that fare is available on some flights. Don't know if that fare extends through the summer, but I'd definitely check there. I've flown the airline twice and am a big fan.

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Charlotte, NC: A spiritual travel experience: Early Sunday morning trip to the USS Arizonia memorial at Pearl Harbor. The Park Service does such a good job explaining the background to the attack, and then the US Navy runs the shuttle launches to the memorial. We got on the second trip of the day, at 7:45 a.m. The launch was full, but everyone was quiet the whole time. It is truly a hallowed place.

Gary Lee: Thanks. I would concur..

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Often in Chicago: Other Windy City eat spots. Harry Carey's, the House of Blues, Giodano's Chicago Deep Dish Pizza, Billy Goat Tavern, Cubby Bear, Gibbon's Steakhouse, the original Morton's and the resturant on top of the Hancock Building...great views.

Gary Lee: Okay, nice ideas.

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Honeymoon in PR: I grew up in PR, and I can tell you the secluded islands, such as Vieques or Culebra, would be perfect honeymoon destinations. Have yet to see prettier beaches in my travels around the world. But getting to them can get tricky, especially if you're traveling all the way from the mainland. I would stay in San Juan the night you get into the island, just to make it less harried (and maybe the last night there). And I recommend the Convento hotel, a four star boutique hotel in the middle of Old San Juan, for a romatic stay just steps away from all the historic sites and many lovely restaurants.

Gary Lee: I totally agree. I love Vieques and the Convento, too.

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Milwaukee, Wis.: Hi, I am strongly considering taking a couple of days to see Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia this summer as a "side trip" from Bangkok. But I am concerned because KL is in a Muslim country. Has anyone been there? Is it generally safe for an American to visit? I have been "warned" by a friend that Malaysia has an Islamic police force similar to that of Iran. Is that true? Thanks!

Anne McDonough: If you're looking for a sidetrip from Bangkok and are set on Malaysia, I'd suggest the Tamen Negara rain forest--you'd need a few days, and you'd get there probably from KL, but it's truly spectacular and quite a change from Bangkok. I traveled solo in Malaysia and didn't have any problems whatsoever; yes it was pre-9/11 but Gary says he didn't encounter any problems either. Anyone else want to weigh in?

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Bowie, Md: Hi crew....came in a little late so hope you can get to this about a religious spot.....
When my daughter was about 8 months old, I had a business trip to Paris and I convinced the wife to come and she brought my daughter. What I remember was the one weekend I didn't have to work and we climbed the Tower in Notre Dame cathedral with my daughter attached to my back. Near the top, it's so small, the only way to continue is to crawl on my hands and keees. When we got to the top and looked out over Paris...I will never forget my daughter's saying her first..."Daddy"......(sniff)

Gary Lee: having made that climb, I'm with you on this one. Thanks for sharing.

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Washington, DC: Let's say you're going to NYC for work, and staying an extra day for your own pleasure. Fri-Sat. You're 26, into the arts and relaxing, wanting to have fun but not break the bank. Also only been to NYC a few times for class trips or quick jaunts. Thoughts?

KC Summers: That's easy, Wash: theater and music by night, and museums by day. (If it were me, I would throw shopping into this mix, but you said you didn't want to break the bank.) Start by checking Time Out and the New Yorker for what's playing the weekend you're there. And if you haven't been to the new Museum of Modern Art, definitely check that out. Aside from the art, it's just an amazingly beautiful building, and the new Modern restaurant is a fun scene.

But also, save time just for walking. That's my favorite thing to do in NY -- pick a neighborhood and just get lost in it. Also, don't forget Central Park!

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Silver Spring, Md.: Here's another suggestions for a dinner in Chicago: Tweet on N. Sheridan. Also, check out metromix.com for more suggestions on what to do. Have fun!

Gary Lee: Great, thanks.

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Dulles, VA - Fly I?: How is Independence these days? Any reason not to book them for a July trip? Also, do they have assigned seating or is it like Southwest?

Carol Sottili: It has financial problems, but what airline doesn't? Depending on how much you spend on airline tickets, you may want to buy insurance if you're worried - I just insured a $600 airline ticket (on another airline) for $34, so I would think a $200 airline ticket would be even cheaper to insure. Caveats - make sure the insurance covers bankruptcy (many don't cover specific airlines, and some don't cover bankruptcy at all)and make sure you purchase insurance soon after buying the flight (most will cover bankruptcy only if you purchase within a week or two of buying the ticket). Web site www.insuremytrip.com is a place to look. Independence has assigned seating.

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Susquehanna Twp, , PA: Most Spiritual place in my travels is actually near where I grew up. It's the Wilderness Church in Silver Dollar City Amusement Park near Branson, Missouri. Why, you may ask. It's a small log cabin church that only holds about 50 people, where the pews are logs split in half atop of logs on end. The pulpit is made from logs also. But the most inspiring thing is that the behind the pulpit is filled by a plate glass window and seated there you look out over the hills and valleys of the Ozarks. To be in a church that looks out over all that God made is most inspiring than any of the ormate churches in Europe that I've seen.

Gary Lee: Thanks. That's a lovely thought...

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Falls Church, Va.: A thought on a self-guided barge trip in France: my husband and I and another couple rented our own barge on the Lateral Canal of the Loire about 15 years ago. The trip would have been IMPOSSIBLE had I not spoken fluent French. Everything from receiving instructions to the barge, the logistics of getting fresh water on board every day, communicating with the lockkeepers and a plethora of other things was conducted in French and we encountered no one in the rural towns we visitd along the way who spoke English. It was a fabulous experience but could have been a nightmare.

Carol Sottili: Good point.

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Queens, NYC: A very spiritual place I went to as few weeks ago was the Little Mermaid Statue in Copenhagen. I was there alone, right at sunrise, and looked at her on her rock, which was coated with ice as it was freezing, looking out to sea waiting for a ship. It made me think everyone will endure loneliness, frigid temperatures, etc if they believe in what they are waiting for.

Gary Lee: That's a nice memory. Thanks.

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Washington, DC: Re: Sunday Travel letters. I'm not sure if the letter writer got it wrong or if the editor changed it, but one of the biggest coffee chains in San Francisco is PEET'S, not Pete's. And it IS delicious.

KC Summers: Hey, Wash. We feel dumb -- of course we know about Peet's, but we thought the letter-writer was talking about a different chain. Hey, it could've existed. Well, I'm glad you're reading the letters column!

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Paris Hotel: The two times I went to Paris (1994 and 2004) I stayed at a Tim Hotel www.timhotel.com The staff is great, they are invariably within walking distance of one major attraction, and they can be very affordable. Last year, we got their winter deal and ended up only paying $70 for the night.

Gary Lee: I have been there and I like it, too, especially the location...

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for Annandale (re: saver awards for Australia): These are really hard to get. I've never tried to get a Saver or Standard award to Australia, but we've struggled even getting upgrades to business class at the Saver rate. We got unbelievably lucky a year ago (finally got them 24 hours in advance), and to get the Saver upgrade for our August 2005 trip to Australia, we had to pay for a more expensive economy fare (but not quite full fare). So, all I can say is call 330 days in advance, or consider shelling out money for a discounted economy ticket and trying to use your points for hotels.

Carol Sottili: Everyone wants to use their miles to go to far-flung destinations, and Australia is one of the most popular.

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Spiritual travel moment: I was in London on September 11th, 2001. On the 14th all of Europe participated in three minutes of silence to honor the victims. I had just gotten off a train in York, England. At 11:00 a.m., without any announcement, the entire station fell silent. Through trains stopped on the tracks. I glanced out the window. Traffic had stopped and everyone had gotten out of their cars and bowed their heads. While in York I allowed myself the tears for New York that I had been too shocked to shed earlier in the week. For three minutes of silence, I communicated with and was embraced by everyone in that train station.

Gary Lee: Thanks, very nice.

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Re: Spiritual Experience: I am not in this for the gift but I had to share: My most spiritual experience was in New Zealand when I traveled across the country by car and came across amazing and unexpected scenery throughout the journey. I am not a particularly religious person but I thought the whole trip was very spiritual because I was able to enjoy the beauty of the land as it is, most of the time without anybody else to interrupt or distract. I felt I traveled back in time since I could have been there 100s of years ago and seen exactly the same thing. There were places where I did not see anything but nature on its own, pure and powerful. I felt a huge amount of respect and appreciation for our world and how or by whom it was created. And it was strengthened every day with the constellation in the sky, the color of a lake, the incredible clouds piled around the peaks of the mountains, and the sudden appearance of a waterfall when I turned around a corner. There were times I felt all the barriers and other stuff were removed between me and a higher existence (whatever you may call it) and I was able to feel it without any obstructions. It totally was amazing.

Gary Lee: It sounds totally amazing. Thanks.

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malta: Definitely go to Gozo--the better natural sites are there. Apartment rentals are cheaper. If you like hiking and such, you will find it inexpensive. Rent a car--the bus schedule isn't super convenient. We stayed in Valletta because it was more beautiful and we hate tourist hotel enclaves, but everything really does close there at night. Also, make reservations at the "good" restaurants in Valletta.

John Deiner: Great stuff! Thanks for chiming in. And in the absence of renting a car (I wouldn't myself), Gozo cabbies are more than happy to drive you around for hours for a (relatively) small fee.

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Fairfax, Va.: While I was studying abroad in London, my History of London professor took us on tours throughout the city. The day we did the Christopher Wren churches stands out in my mind as so memorable. In particular, the small and tucked out of the way St. Stephen's Walbrook near the City. The sanctuary is in the round and has a beautiful altar by Henry Moore. It was amazing to experience such artistry and peace.

Gary Lee: Lovely. Thanks so much.

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Advice for Orlando restaurant: Go to Seasons 52...it's not a chain...yet!; It's great, healthy food. Very adult and upscale.

John Deiner: Wunnerful, wunnerful. Thanks for the top.

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RE: Honeymoon in Puerto Rico: Trying to get this in last minute... I say "GO FOR IT!;" and not only because I love it there and have there. Vieques would be great - takes a little extra to get there - but well worth it. Or try the west/southern part of the island or near Boqueron which I love. It is quiet but has amenities that are nice.

Gary Lee: We agree. But just to clarify, you don't have to get married to enjoy Vieques.

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Alexandria, Va.: Is there an airline that specializes in cheap flights to Orlando, FL? Heading to Disney World in a few months and looking to get there without breaking the bank, since Disney tickets are already doing that. Thank you!

John Deiner: Hey, Al. I'd check with all the usual suspects--Independence, Southwest, AirTran, ect. That's a heavily traveled route from here, and prices are frequently well under $200 roundtrip if you book far enough in advance.

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Rockville, Md.: Anne, thanks. Talking about hotels, since i am going there in July, do I have to book hotel/guesthouse in advance, what about the bus/train/air tix? I'd prefer to go with the flow, but afraid if it's going to be a busy season.Also what lonely planet book did you use? Thanks.

Anne McDonough: Lonely Planet China--not sure what the most recent edition is but they've always steered me right. I'm a fan of not booking in advance, especially if you're by yourself because most places will have at least ONE bed left! Also, places you plan to stay only one or two nights may end up being the place you fall in love with, buses may not run when you're planning them to, the person next to you at the dinner table may have just come from a place you've never heard of and make you want to change your itinerary...you just never know. It will be HOT and the sun is piercing in July-bring sunscreen! If you're flying directly into Kunming and arriving at night, then book, say, the first night, and then leave the rest up to chance.

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Washington, Dc: Spiritual, a Deepak Chopra renewal weekend on the Sunset Strip in LA two weeks ago, with the most lovely yoga instructors.

Gary Lee: Oh, how nice. Thanks.

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Most spiritual:
On a cruise (Celebrity) this past fall to Newport RI and Canada -- our last "stop" on the trip was a day long excursion up the Saguanay (sp!;) fjords (we had left Quebec City at midnight) -- breathtakingly beautiful as it was foggy in the morning, and as the fog lifted, you could see the foliage. We also saw a lot of beluga whales. However, there's a statue (25 feet tall) on one of the cliffs of the Virgin Mary and it's been there for years. As we sailed by, versions of the "Ave Maria" played over the intercom system of the ship...

Gary Lee: That sounds precious. Thanks for sharing.

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Arlington, Va.: The most spiritual place for me was the wooden inner shrine in Ise Japan. The shrine (as I remember it) houses a sacred artifact that is only ever seen by Shinto priests. No pictures of the shrine are allowed. It was an amazing feeling to see this shrine. I felt a palpable sense of reverence and history there, which, to me, was made even more amazing by the fact that the actual shrine is rebuilt every 20 years. I grew up in California where the sense of history is appreciably less than in a country that still has monuments, temples, etc. that go back centuries. It was my first real experience with that kind of history and I've never forgotten it.

Gary Lee: Thanks for sharing that with us.

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Washington, DC: Spiritual place? This is going to sound totally unoriginal, but my trip to Israel back in '99 was pretty spiritual, but not for the typical reasons. I went over for a fraternity brother's wedding (he moved to Israel after graduation). He rented a tour bus for everyone who went over and we took it all over the country - from Tel Aviv north to Nahariyah and Akko, across to Tiberias, down to Jerusalem for the wedding and ended up in Eilat. Just knowing that people have been fighting each other for millenia over this small piece of Earth was pretty moving - especially driving past Megiddo, where we get the term Armegeddon, where the Egyptians and Hittites battled in 1481 BC - 4000 years ago!;

Gary Lee: It's not unoriginal at all, thanks.

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Spiritual Travel Moment: I'm not even remotely religious, but I had one of those great "All is right with my place in the world" moments in Florence. I was living there for a few months, in a gorgeous villa up in the hills that had a panoramic view of Florence. There was a lunar eclipse one night, and I sat alone on the balcony overlooking Florence while the full moon slowly disappeared. Something about that moment has always stayed with me.

Gary Lee: sounds lovely. thanks.

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Grand Cayman: Can you suggest a fun/interesting vacation spot for September? My boyfriend and I were thinking of an Alaskan cruise, but living in Grand Cayman we don't want to go to "typical" ports of call. Thanks in advance for your help.

Carol Sottili: Plenty of smaller adventure boats ply the Alaskan waters, stopping at smaller towns and emphasizing nature over glitz. A good resource is www.smallshipcruises.com - it'll provide a list of companies.

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Bethesda, Md: As to memorable and spiritual sites. Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire, England. Walking through the ruins of the destroyed abbey, set in beautiful grounds, looking through arched gothic windows with no glass,looking upwards to see only blue sky framed by abbey columns and walls, is to know what a cathedral is. Another truly sacred site is Mont Ste. Michel, Normandy France. Staying the night and watching the sun set and cast a shadow of the Abbey mount and spire over the flat water - truly magnificent!

Gary Lee: Sweet memory. Thanks.

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Naptown, MD: spritual travels - I have family (i.e. cousins) in Knock, Ireland, which is also a holy site (claims of the Virgin Mary visited kids there). So I stop by the church to get some of the holy water for my grandmother. look for the holy water, thinking it's in the church in a basin of sorts - but instead it's piped into the parking lot and you get it out of a driking fountain contraption. to this day, i still don't have the heart to tell my grandmother where the holy water really came from.

Gary Lee: Nice memory. thanks.

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NY Buses: Hi again,

Not to draw out the NY-DC bus discussion too much, but...

You can go to the Greyhound/Peter Pan Web site and look up the schedule, and it also tells you whether the bus will be a greyhound or a peter pan. It's always been accurate in my experience.

Anne McDonough: I think prior chats have shown you can never have too much of a NY-DC bus discussion. Good to know-thanks!

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Columbia, Md.: To Paris: a year and a half a go we stayed in an apartment in the suburb of du' Neilly. It was great. It had two bedrooms and a sofa bed in the dining room. We went with my in-laws, two children and my husband. We booked the apartment though a management company in New Jersey. When we arrived we were greeted with a bottle of wine and a diary of all the others (from around the world) of other visitors who stayed in the apartment. It had a host of tips like where to go for groceries, sights to see and avoid and eatery's in the neighborhood. There was a subway stop right downstairs. It was both convenient and cost effective. Much more so that a hotel. I would definitely look into this.

Gary Lee: Thanks

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Spiritual Places: There's nothing better than English Gothic
churches for a wonderfully spiritual experience.
From evensong at St. George's Chapel on a
wintry Sunday evening (only a few tourists and a
wonderful boys' choir) to the thundering majesty
of the Salisbury Cathedral organ wafting across
an empty nave early one Saturday morn, the
experiences can be both surreal and sublime.
Westminster Abbey has its busloads of tourists,
but go to the right church at the right time and you
can have a truly transcendant experience all your
own.

Gary Lee: Thanks for that thought.

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malta--one more thing!;: Also make a reservation for the underground necropolis temple--it books weeks in advance!;

John Deiner: Great tip! I didn't make reservations and regret it. Thanks again.

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Washington, DC: I always feel a sense of spirituality when I visit the Cloisters in New York. I always wonder what those artists in the late 1800s would think (or paint) if they saw the towers of industry looming in the distance.

Gary Lee: Thanks for that tip.

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Spiritual Place: Many years ago, when I was a teenager, I took a trip to Greece with my aunt. We toured the Athens region and the Pelopenessus, and just before we left, took a day trip to Delphi. The fantastic location on a mountain above the water, the (surprising) lack of tourists, and the history of the oracle somehow created a bond between the present and the Greek gods. That direct connection to mythology took our breath away, and we couldn't leave. We found a small hotel and stayed the night. We returned to Athens the next day and left the day after that. I've taken a lot of terrific trips since then, but the serenity I felt at Delphi is a memory that has not been erased.

Gary Lee: I love this memory. Thanks.

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Am I being scammed?: Please help. I recently made reservations on a trip to Europe that I found on Travelzoo. After an initial $200 non-refundable deposit, I was supposed to have until April 8th to pay the balance. But last week I got an e-mail saying they needed an additional $200 non-refundable deposit in order to hold my reservation since international fares have increased. Should I choose not to send in an additional deposit, my package will increase by $250. Have you ever heard of this? Do you think I should cut my losses and move on? I'm especially concerned because the contract requires mandatory arbitration in PA if there's a problem. Thank you so much for your response.

Carol Sottili: I haven't heard of this, but in some ways, it makes sense. If Travelzoo's supplier is pressuring it to pay up, Travelzoo in turn will pressure you. Who's the tour provider? Can you call them directly and find out why Travelzoo wants more money up front? As for being scammed, I don't think that's the case.

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Washington DC: Re: spiritual places. Along the same lines as the poster who suggested the Muir Woods, my most "spiritual" travel experiences was on a hike on the Isle of Skye, off the west coast of Scotland. We were there in the off-season, so were the only people on the trail. We climbed up to the Old Man of Storr (a very interesting rock formation that looks like a face) and as we sat absorbing the amazing view of rock, fields, and the sea beyond, the weather went from gray and hailing to the sun breaking through the clouds. To me, the beauty of the natural world as untouched by man as possible is the most spiritual thing a person can experience.

Gary Lee: That's a wonderful thought. Thanks.

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Washington DC: My most spiritual travel experience was sheer luck...I was in India, Srinagar (Kashmir) to be exact. While the rest of India was blazing hot, I had the opportunity to experience the crisp cool air of this northern region. The guide on my gondola-like boat spoke no English. He was paddling us over Dal lake, which happen to be adorn with hundreds of blooming pink lotus flowers. All of a sudden, he stopped the boat and pointed to the vegetation around us, in the middle of the lake. He got up and motioned for me to follow...and we walked on the famous floating gardens of Dal Lake. That was the moment where I forgot who I was, I just felt at one with nature...

Gary Lee: That sound great. Thanks.

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Arlington, Va.: For Milwaukee, interested in Malaysia:

KL is a nice place, but, to put it charitably, a bit dull. If
you must have something in Malaysia, I'd try Penang or
Malacca instead--particularly if you love food. Malacca
has several great cuisines, particularly good is Nonyan
(sp?), the cuisine of the descendants of Chinese settlers.
The temples and old houses are fascinating. I wouldn't
worry about the Islamic aspect, though. We were there
post-9/11 and had no problems in that respect.

Jerry Haines

Anne McDonough: If you do try Penang, BE CAREFUL WHERE YOU SWIM! If there aren't folks in the water...that may be because they know all about the man o'wars. Learned that the hard way.
Though I didn't find KL that compelling, Gary said he had lots of fun, so it really does depend I guess!

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Washington, DC: I was in San Francisco about 25 years ago on business and vowed to return with my wife. Well, I'm finally getting around to it. My problem is I need to refresh my memory about all the wonderful sights S.F. has to offer. Any ideas where to look first and how about package deals that my be worth considering. Thanks for any help.

John Deiner: Hey, D.C. We're going to follow this question with a link to a piece we just did a few weeks ago on San Fran...

Here it comes . ..

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Alexandria, Va.: My most spiritual travel moment was walking up the steps of Waverly station for the first time and seeing Edinburgh unfold before me. I'm a half-Polish and half- Irish American, and I don't believe in past lives, but something about that moment convinced me that I had come home. It was a visceral and profound feeling I still cannot explain, but I've been back four or five more times and feel it every time.

Gary Lee: Thanks, that's very nice...

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washingtonpost.com: San Francisco Two Ways, (Feb. 16, 2005)

John Deiner: And here it is...

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Clifton, Va.: Hi guys,

What do you know about onetravel.com. I just bought 3 tickets (3K total) from them without thinking because they came out the cheapest with the flight I wanted for June on Air France IAD/NCE/CDG but they don't mention anything about seat assignments and mostly I got this email from them which really concerns me. "In the unlikely event that a supplier cannot fulfill your reservation request, you will receive a second email entitled URGENT MESSAGE CONCERNING YOUR RESERVATION." Does that mean I may find myself without any reservations? Scary!

Thank God. You are here.

Carol Sottili: Have you tried calling Air France to make sure you're ticketed on the flights, and to try to get seats? That's what I would do.

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Columbia, Md.: Ok, this post is sort of lame. But my most spiritual vacation spot was yesterday morning, north Ocean City, watching the sun rise over an empty sea (it was Easter, afterall!) on an empty beach, back towards the coast development. It was absolutely magical - it was gray and misty - the sun was hidden, but all of a sudden, about 45 minutes after sunrise, all of a sudden a burst of pure, perfect light shined through the clouds - to me, it looked like it was done through the hand of God.

Now, I've been to famous churches, cathedrals, temples, synagogues, mosques - all over Europe, the US, and in India. But still, in those places I feel appreciation for -someone else's- interpretation of spirtuality and artistic skill - in nature I find spirituality itself.

Gary Lee: Not lame at all. Thanks.

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Re: Kuala Lumpur: KL is a very safe place, I was there as a woman traveling alone 1,5 years ago and had no problems whatsoever, even when I got lost in an area and had to take backroads to walk back to the hotel. Aside from the women's dresses and mosques you don't even notice they are muslim. I wouldn't take it as a side trip from Bangkok though, I woudl either go somewhere else in Thailand (Phuket is my favorite, still) or Penang, Langkawi or somewhere like that in Malaysia. KL is just another big city in my opinion.

Anne McDonough: Thanks for the imput.

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spiritual place: next to the old Jewish cemetary in Prague (like 500 yrs old) - there is an old abandoned Jewish synagogue. As a memorial to the Holocaust victims of Prague and the surrounding areas, the caretakers painted the town (or section of town)in red and then the names of the Holocaust victims. It covered all of the walls of the synagogue, floor to ceiling. There is a specific area of the synagogue that takes you to another part of the memorial where you can look onto the main part of the chapel and in the center, they still have the place to hold the Torah (sorry I don't know the specific word for it) - but there are no pews, no chairs - and all I could think was - the spirit of these people is all that is left to fill this place. I left speechless.

Gary Lee: We know what you mean.

Thanks for sharing.

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spiritual place: southeastern coast of Wales - along the Pembrokeshire walking path - you actually go through an army tank firing zone (so sometimes it is closed to the public)!; There is a small chapel dug into the side of a cliff, literally in the cleft of the rock, where some of the first missionaries to Wales supposedly carved this church's base out of the rock to build a church. It was small and crude, but reminded me of the song/Bible verse - "He hideth my soul in the cleft of the rock and covers me there with His hand" - and the sacrifices of these men long ago to change the lives of the Welsh people.

Gary Lee: Thanks, Nice.

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washington, the state: Spiritual moment for an atheist: my daughter (also an atheist) and I went to evening mass at Notre Dame in Paris---wonderful hymns, amazing to watch how seriously everyone took communion... and as we stood up to leave, the last of the sun was streaming through the rose window, the main doors were open, and it was absolutely stunningly beautiful---and we turned to each other and said "so that's how the Catholic church persuaded everyone to build these cathedrals!;" (If I was ever going to become a believer, it would have been then.)

Gary Lee: I quite agree. Thanks.

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Alexandria, Va.: My most spiritual moment? Sitting at the top of Mt. Sinai watching the sunrise after the infamous climb. Religious significance of the site aside, there's something very empowering and spiritual about doing something so physical and so close to nature. The stars are brighter than you've ever seen, and you can count the number of shooting stars on two hands when you've never even seen one before in your life. The air is clear and fresh. You become friends with your guide and everyone else around you. Language no longer matters. You huddle with them in a little shack, sipping karkedai. Then when the horizon begins to glow, you troop up to the very top, you line up and watch one the golden sliver become larger until the mountain range around you begins to glow. Some groups are singing songs, some people cry, and you wonder if you'll ever be the same again.

Gary Lee: Thanks. What a wonderful experience.

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Chevy Chase, Md. - Spirtual Spot: For me it would be Uluru/Ayers Rock in Australia. It's such an ancient and beautiful place that has tremendous spiritual significance for the Aboriginal people. It was humbling to walk around in places where there aren't many tourists and reflect on its meaning.

Gary Lee: Thany you.

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Bethesda, Md.: I will be in NY sunday and monday for my birthday. I've been to NY many times and have done all the tourist stuff. As a well traveled person, I'd like to do something special in the way a New Yorker would do. I am not into expensive and formal restaurants but woudl love to have a great meal at a semi-casual place with some kind of atmosphere. Also, what do you recommend for Sunday evening? What woudl you do in NY on your birthday?

KC Summers: I'd splurge on a great dinner, then go to a play ("Spelling Bee"!), then a club or cool bar for drinks afterward. Oh, and I'd fit some walking-around and shopping time in there too.

I've already plugged NoMa's new Modern restaurant once in this chat but I think that would make a great birthday meal. It's such a fabulous space and the food is great. I've also heard good things about Blue Fin -- a cool new seafood place in the W Times Square hotel. Another fantastic restaurant is Gramercy Tavern, if you're near Union Square.

One cool thing to do, if you like opera, is to check out the Dicapo Opera Theatre on the Upper East Side -- it's a very intimate way to see opera, a little jewelbox of a theater, and with very professional productions, and it's relatively affordable at about $50 as I recall. This season they're doing La Traviata and Falstaff, among other things. Info: www.dicapo.com.

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Washington, DC: Having stayed at the White Pig (the vegan B&B reviewed by the Post) I can say from experience that anyone who doesn't go there just because they happen to be vegan is missing out. It's a great, romantic inn and the food is some of the best that I've had at ANY inn, vegetarian or not.

KC Summers: Thanks, Wash -- we think so too!!

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Washington DC: While this might not be what you are thinking of, I found that touring the ruins of Pompeii prompted a lot of reflection on how fleeting life is. Here was a developed town, with government offices and gardens, a marketplace and houses - all the same kinds of everyday places and items we are surrounded by. Now, thousands of years later, we come and see it at once destroyed and preserved at its moment of destruction.

Gary Lee: Thanks for that thought.

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26 in NYC: At night, I'd suggest visiting the East Village and thE Lower East Side. Much less exepnsiuve than other areas, with so many more options for fun and music!; You can either have a couple ideas from Time Out, or just peek in all the bars and places and see what fits your mood.

KC Summers: Yep, those are great neighborhoods to check out. Thanks.

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Arlington, Va.: re: Malta. Yes, staying in Valletta is definitely worth it I think. You can easily walk around the city and just wander. Also worth seeing are all of the old neolithic temples that are older than the Pyramids. You need to book in advance for the Hypogeum but it is worth doing. A little hard to find though as it's in a pretty densely packed area and is below ground. Mdina is certainly worth the trip as well.

John Deiner: Thanks, Arl. I second the Mdina recommendation too--way cool, it is.

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Washington DC: Maybe this will win for "least spiritual" travel experience: On a tour of the cathedral in Montreal, the guide instructed our group to sit down on a specific pew. He told us a special baptism has been held in the cathedral, and he had been honored to attend. He pointed to the man next to me: "In that very spot, the father of the baby sat." And he pointed to me: "You are now sitting exactly where the mother sat. And the name of the mother? Celine Dion!;"

Gary Lee: Oh how nice, thanks.

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Indianapolis, Ind.: I read Cindy's article about her Bulgarian trip after last weeks discussion. Article was fine and all but what impressed me the most was that she was driving alone in the mountains in the snow in a country she couldn't read the map or street signs. I've driven in Moldova on a flat surface in the summertime and I was scared out of my wits. So my question is, is Cindy nuts?! She's not here so feel free to answer honestly.

KC Summers: Luckily for us, Cindy is a very brave, courageous and dedicated travel writer. And gutsier than the rest of us put together! (Sorry, Steve, Gary and John!)

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Kansas City, Mo.: Flight Crew, if you answer my query, I'll love you forever and recommend you to all my friends -- how's that for a bribe? I would REALLY appreciate any ideas about hotels in Rome. I'll only have two days to see the highlights, so ideally I'd like something in a good location. Equally important, though, since I'm travelling alone, is that it's somewhere safe and affordable (i.e. the cheaper the better!!!!). Thank you!

Gary Lee: Try the hotel Mozart near the Spanish Steps.

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Santa Monica, Calif.: Does any one out there have any information on Slovenia. Would it be save to drive there with a new (expensive) car? How comfortable are the hotels, any recommendations. Thanks. Lya

Gary Lee: Santa Monica: I think your car will be pretty safe; just don't leave it too exposed on streets at night. As for the level of hotels, I remember them as being quite nice, more three star than five star though.

And on that note, much thanks to all who joined us with great questions this week. A special thanks to all of the memorable recollections of spiritual experiences on the road.

It's really an impossible task for me to choose one. So many of them touched me personally. I like the description of the Muir Woods a lot. If the clickster who wrote about that could send me his or her home address at leeg@washpost.com, I will send the prize right to you.

All others, please join us next week and between now and then, happy trails!

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