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Sunday, September 5, 2004; Page P02

Worth a Trip: "In Peru, the spectacular is quotidian," Joe Kane says in Conde Nast Traveler. You'll find "the world's biggest river, deepest gorge, driest desert, and richest rain forest." Improved lodging and transportation have "opened up the cloud forest and the Amazon basin." Kane hops a mountain bike, dropping "nearly three vertical miles" through terrain that is "calisthenics for the imagination."

Worth a Flip: Brit mag the Sunday Times Travel is packed with goodies, from a spa with glass-walled underwater treatment rooms at Huvafen Fushi (www.huvafenfushi.com) in the Maldives, to the real places that inspired kids' tales like Harry Potter . . . It's like porn for leaf-peepers: Yankee Magazine Seasons has stunning photos and insider tips for finding fall foliage, plus updates at www.yankeefoliage.com . . . Fireplace butlers (Ritz-Carlton, Boston) and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on silver platters (Le Pavilion, New Orleans) help define "hotels we love" in National Geographic Traveler . . . Real Simple touts www.fuelcostcalculator.com as a way to figure gas costs for your next road trip . . . You thought they'd rate beds? Modern Bride picks the "Most Luxurious Bathrooms" (Four Seasons Resort in Hualalai, Hawaii, takes the prize).

Worth a Gawk: How do you top a cover story about a guy who sawed off his own arm to survive? Outside does it with a batch of survival tales including avalanches, poisoning, grizzlies and an ice-spewing, tree-hurling volcano.

-- Gayle Keck

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