Even the more casual markets offer delectable treats. We became addicted to the chicken and avocado sandwiches at Boonville's Boont Berry Farm, a store that featured quality chocolate bars and a good selection of local wines. A weekly farmer's market in Boonville offers fresh berries, gourmet olive oils and local produce. Residents also frequent Gowan's market, which is known for its apples.
Luckily, Anderson Valley offers opportunities to work off some of these meals. Walking through towering redwoods at Hendy Woods State Park, just a few minutes north of Philo, gives you the feeling of traversing an ancient cathedral. Drive another half-hour or so and you can wander through several state parks around the coastal town of Mendocino. When we visited during the Fourth of July weekend Mendocino was packed with tourists, crowding out the stunning views of the Pacific, but off-season it might be a nice place to visit. We opted for the Russian Gulch and Van Damme state parks, with redwoods and coastal views, respectively.
You can easily hike all three state parks in one day, if you're in the mood, or choose the bicycle loop through Hendy instead. When the weather's warm enough, innkeeper Fuchs and her friends also take dips in the Navarro River.
I wish I could report that by the end of our stay, Vic had warmed to California wines. This was not the case, and he spent an inordinate amount of time muttering that the zinfandels and the pinot noirs we sipped were "too jammy" or "too tasty." Still, he did fall for Handley Cellars' Gewurztraminer, and we took a couple of bottles back to D.C. Their elegant long necks and African-patterned labels serve as a reminder of a rare find, one we hope to immerse ourselves in again.
Details: Anderson Valley
GETTING THERE: Anderson Valley is 2 1/2 hours north of San Francisco. Take Highway 101 north to Highway 128 west; the towns and wineries dot the winding road for about 30 miles.
WHERE TO STAY: The Philo Pottery Inn (8550 Hwy. 128, Philo, 707-895-3069, www.philopotteryinn.com), a Victorian-style farmhouse, has five rooms ranging from $110 to $165 per night double. The Boonville Hotel (Highway 128 at Lambert Lane, Boonville, 707-895-2210, www.boonvillehotel.com), an 1862 landmark, has 10 rooms with rates starting at $85 per night, double. The Apple Farm (18501 Greenwood Rd., Philo, 707-895-2461) offers cooking classes by the former owners of Napa's French Laundry restaurant as well as three individual cottages and a room over the main dining room on an organic apple orchard. Rates $175 a night.
WHERE TO EAT: The venerable Boonville Hotel (see above) restaurant has entrees ranging from crusted local salmon with tomato salsa and mashed potatoes to grilled rib-eye steak with fresh horseradish cream and ratatouille; prices from $16 to $25. Libby's (8651 Hwy. 128; dinner entrees from $6) is a Mexican restaurant popular with locals; entrees include sauteed prawns in a sauce of chilies, tomatoes, onions and lime, and any-kind-of-meat enchiladas. Boont Berry Farm (13981 Hwy. 128, Boonville ) serves addictive chicken and avocado sandwiches for $4.75, as well as locally grown organic produce, home-baked bread, salads and hot entrees. Lauren's Cafe (14211 Hwy. 128, Boonville), another local fave, is known for its inexpensive home-cooked meals of pot pies, meatloaf and other comfort foods.
WINERIES: Following is a list of Anderson Valley wineries offering free tastings, as well as two that serve champagne for a tasting fee of $3 per person. Call ahead for hours and directions.
• Brutocao Cellars, 7000 Hwy. 128, Philo, 707-895-2152
• Christine Woods Winery, 3155 Hwy. 128, Philo, 707-895-2115
