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Hardware That Cooks

3. Small sections of PVC pipe.

USES: Stacking layers of ice cream and sorbets, molding chocolate desserts, making salad towers and hanging pasta to dry.

_____HARDWARE RECIPES_____
Recipes That Use Tools

Tuna Tartare With Fresh Horseradish and Radishes

4 servings

Chef Cathal Armstrong uses a three-inch length of two-inch-diamter PVC pipe to mold this appetizer.

8 ounces diced, sushi-grade ahi tuna

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons grated fresh horseradish

1 minced shallot clove

1 tablespoon minced chives

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sliced French breakfast radishes or red radishes, baby arugula and toasted baguette slices, for garnish

In a bowl, combine the tuna, oil, horseradish, shallot and chives. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Press one-quarter of the tuna mixture into the PVC pipe. Using the bottom of a narrow bottle, press down on the tuna and pull the PVC pipe up. Because the tuna is oily, it will not stick to the mold and will stay intact. Repeat until you have 4 tuna towers. Garnish with radishes, arugula and baguette slices.

Recipe tested by Lisa Cherkasky; e-mail questions to food@washpost.comPer serving: 95 calories, 13 gm protein, 1 gm carbohydrates, 4 gm fat, 26 mg cholesterol, 0 gm saturated fat, 91 mg sodium, 0 gm dietary fiber

Poundcake Cookies

Makes 4 to 5 dozen small cookies

Pastry chef Ann Amernick brushes these tender cookies with a sweet-tart glaze using a soft-bristled paintbrush. Just one swipe imparts the perfect amount. These are best served the day they are baked.

The cookies are based on the old-fashioned approach to poundcake that calls for a pound of each ingredient. Weighing the ingredients is encouraged but not necessary.

8 ounces (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature

8 ounces (scant 1 1/4 cups) granulated sugar

8 ounces eggs (about 4 large eggs)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract or 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

8 ounces (scant 1 1/4 cups) flour

1 cup confectioners' sugar

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (between 1 and 2 large lemons)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place a wire rack over newspapers, a brown paper bag, paper towels or wax paper to catch any drips.

In a large bowl using an electric mixer on low speed, beat the butter and sugar for about 4 minutes. The mixture should be light in color and texture but not fluffy.

Add the eggs, 1 at a time, mixing after each addition just until combined. Add the vanilla or lemon zest and mix for about 2 minutes.

Add the flour in 3 additions, scraping the bottom of the bowl with a spatula to ensure the ingredients are completely incorporated the dense dough. Drop teaspoons of the dough onto the baking sheet or fit a pastry bag with a No. 6 or 7 Ateco tip and pipe the dough onto the baking sheet. Bake the cookies for 5 minutes, then rotate the sheet front to back.

Bake for about 5 more minutes, until cookies are lightly golden and just firm to the touch. The cookies will spread out; they should be a little soft, not crisp.

In a bowl, whisk together the confectioners' sugar and lemon juice. The mixture should be smooth and somewhat runny.

Remove the cookies from the oven; immediately transfer them to a wire rack and, using a soft-bristled paintbrush about 1 1/2 inches wide, lightly brush the cookies with the glaze.

Recipe tested by Bonnie S. Benwick; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com

Per cookie (based on 60): 64 calories, 1 gm protein, 8 gm carbohydrates, 3 gm fat, 24 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 5 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

WHY CHEFS LIKE THEM: Armstrong said PVC piping is "a great tool, because the pipes come in every size you ever need." Gillian Clark of Colorado Kitchen in Washington hangs pasta on suspended horizontal lengths of PVC pipe because they are easy to clean and inexpensive. (A 20-foot length of two-inch diameter PVC costs less than $5 at Home Depot.)

CARE AND CLEANING: Clark said she washes PVC in the dishwasher because the pipe can handle all water temperatures. If washing by hand, use mild soap and a bottle brush for the inside. Do not boil PVC pipes or put them in an oven or over a direct source of heat.

4. Spray-paint tools.

USES: Applying even coats of cocoa powder, powdered sugar or clarified butter; glazing desserts.

WHY CHEFS LIKE THEM: Armstrong said they give a more even coating than a sieve, the usual tool for such a task. Ouattara said glaze-loaded spray-paint guns "give a velvety look to the dessert."

CARE AND CLEANING: Be diligent, Armstrong said, in washing out a spray paint gun. "You have to keep it meticulously clean [to prevent clogging]. It gets cleaned with soapy water every time we use it."

5. Propane torch.

USES: Making creme brulee, loosening gelatin from molds, scorching bell peppers.

WHY CHEFS LIKE IT: Armstrong likes it because the torch runs at a higher temperature than the glue-gun-size "kitchen torches" sold in kitchen equipment stores, and doesn't get clogged as often. Kitchen torches, he said, "are useless in a week." Tunks suggests putting brulee ramekins on a sheet pan or aluminum foil before running them under a flame, to avoid burning countertops. (The smaller torch, shown in the photo above, is quite similar to the kitchen-store model, except it costs much less.)

6. Wooden dowels and baseboard trim.

USES: Molding puff pastry, tortillas, spring roll wrappers or nori sheets (food wraps made of dried seaweed) around dowels to hold a curved shape; supporting the layers of a wedding cake.

WHY CHEFS LIKE IT: "I'm always trying to experiment with something," said Ouattara. For those at home, Ouattara suggested dipping tortillas or spring roll wrappers (carefully!) in hot oil until flexible, then carefully wrapping the food around a piece of wood that has been covered in foil and setting aside to cool.


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