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Hardware That Cooks

WHY CHEFS LIKE IT: Amernick said thread and floss don't crumble cake the way a knife can.

11. Handyman's toolbox, with hammers, seamstress shears and saws.

_____HARDWARE RECIPES_____
Recipes That Use Tools

Tuna Tartare With Fresh Horseradish and Radishes

4 servings

Chef Cathal Armstrong uses a three-inch length of two-inch-diamter PVC pipe to mold this appetizer.

8 ounces diced, sushi-grade ahi tuna

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons grated fresh horseradish

1 minced shallot clove

1 tablespoon minced chives

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sliced French breakfast radishes or red radishes, baby arugula and toasted baguette slices, for garnish

In a bowl, combine the tuna, oil, horseradish, shallot and chives. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Press one-quarter of the tuna mixture into the PVC pipe. Using the bottom of a narrow bottle, press down on the tuna and pull the PVC pipe up. Because the tuna is oily, it will not stick to the mold and will stay intact. Repeat until you have 4 tuna towers. Garnish with radishes, arugula and baguette slices.

Recipe tested by Lisa Cherkasky; e-mail questions to food@washpost.comPer serving: 95 calories, 13 gm protein, 1 gm carbohydrates, 4 gm fat, 26 mg cholesterol, 0 gm saturated fat, 91 mg sodium, 0 gm dietary fiber

Poundcake Cookies

Makes 4 to 5 dozen small cookies

Pastry chef Ann Amernick brushes these tender cookies with a sweet-tart glaze using a soft-bristled paintbrush. Just one swipe imparts the perfect amount. These are best served the day they are baked.

The cookies are based on the old-fashioned approach to poundcake that calls for a pound of each ingredient. Weighing the ingredients is encouraged but not necessary.

8 ounces (2 sticks) butter, at room temperature

8 ounces (scant 1 1/4 cups) granulated sugar

8 ounces eggs (about 4 large eggs)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract or 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

8 ounces (scant 1 1/4 cups) flour

1 cup confectioners' sugar

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice (between 1 and 2 large lemons)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place a wire rack over newspapers, a brown paper bag, paper towels or wax paper to catch any drips.

In a large bowl using an electric mixer on low speed, beat the butter and sugar for about 4 minutes. The mixture should be light in color and texture but not fluffy.

Add the eggs, 1 at a time, mixing after each addition just until combined. Add the vanilla or lemon zest and mix for about 2 minutes.

Add the flour in 3 additions, scraping the bottom of the bowl with a spatula to ensure the ingredients are completely incorporated the dense dough. Drop teaspoons of the dough onto the baking sheet or fit a pastry bag with a No. 6 or 7 Ateco tip and pipe the dough onto the baking sheet. Bake the cookies for 5 minutes, then rotate the sheet front to back.

Bake for about 5 more minutes, until cookies are lightly golden and just firm to the touch. The cookies will spread out; they should be a little soft, not crisp.

In a bowl, whisk together the confectioners' sugar and lemon juice. The mixture should be smooth and somewhat runny.

Remove the cookies from the oven; immediately transfer them to a wire rack and, using a soft-bristled paintbrush about 1 1/2 inches wide, lightly brush the cookies with the glaze.

Recipe tested by Bonnie S. Benwick; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com

Per cookie (based on 60): 64 calories, 1 gm protein, 8 gm carbohydrates, 3 gm fat, 24 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 5 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

USES: Crack coconuts or tenderize meat with the hammer; remove bone marrow with the saw; extract lungs from soft-shell crabs with the shears.

WHY CHEFS LIKE IT: Clark said these tools work "better and faster" than their kitchen counterparts.

12. Compressed air.

USE: Cooling chocolate or candy.

WHY CHEFS LIKE IT: Tunks said it cools off chocolate quickly so it's ready to work with.

13. Empty cans.

USES: Molding and baking cakes and puddings.

WHY CHEFS LIKE THEM: Mark Furstenberg of Washington's Bread Line likes the variety of sizes. "I actually have gone to stores to shop for cans and then disposed of the contents," he said.

CARE AND CLEANING: Don't use cans from strongly scented foods. Furstenberg said he tried to use an empty can of Maxwell House but abandoned it after several washes didn't get the coffee smell out. The cans should be washed and dried by hand for reuse.

Susan Breitkopf is associate editor of Museum News. She eagerly awaits the opportunity to spray-paint her next dessert.


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