Lake Titicaca: That's the Spirit!

For me, the spectacle of handmade islands aloft on water was a rare, worthwhile stop. Others in the group were less impressed. Charles Koontz, an Ohio engineer who was touring the Andes with his wife, Julie, grimaced when I asked his impression. "This was a Disney version of indigenous culture," he said.

When we reached Taquile three hours later, all was forgiven. Three miles long and a half-mile wide, this is one of the largest and most intriguing of the enclaves scattered across the lake. First populated 10,000 years ago by the Tiahuanaco tribe, it was overtaken by Incas in the 15th century and later by Spanish colonists. Most of its 3,000 residents trace their roots to the original tribe.

As I climbed the 533 stone steps to a plateau and continued along a stone path, I noticed earmarks of different cultures. Along a hillside were the familiar terraces Incas used for growing crops. Atop a stone gate was a cross, the unmistakable sign of the missionaries' influence.

Inside the spacious central plaza, the scene seemed strangely untouched by the passage of centuries. A few men in wool stocking caps wandered about, knitting as they walked. Women dressed in layered skirts and black shawls squatted in the corners, spinning yarn. Workmen wearing sandals mended the facade of a stone building.

After our lunch of trout and rice, Angel explained that the locals go to great lengths to maintain the customs of the past. A few years ago, after visiting mainland Peru, a group of local youths asked permission to wear jeans and T-shirts. The island council rejected their request, by Angel's account. Through the centuries, married men have been required to wear stocking caps of red, while bachelors wear red and white.

Yanaparqui, a form of labor barter in which couples alternately work on one another's farms, has also continued since the pre-Christian era. The communal market, in which the profits of goods sold are divided among workers, is another longtime tradition. "Life here is about the same as it always was," Angel explained.

As the Villa del Lago made its way back to the mainland, I took a long look across the lake to the dazzling Cordillera Real range of Bolivia in the distance. Off in the horizon, the sun was beginning to disappear. My trip was coming to an end, and that was fine, too. I knew that the glory the Incas found in this region would continue forever.

Details: Lake Titicaca

GETTING THERE: The best entry point is La Paz, Bolivia. It's also the priciest, however, with the least expensive flights from Reagan National on American Airlines this summer running $892 round trip and up. D.C.-Lima flights are a more reasonable $510 round trip on American Airlines. From Lima, you can take a one-hour flight to Puno, on the northern shore of the lake, for around $75 each way on LanChile. Adventure travelers should take the Ormeno Lima-Puno bus ride; it costs around $35 each way and goes through sublime terrain -- but takes about 18 hours. You can pick it up at the central bus depot, Avenida Carlos Zavala 177, Lima.

WHERE TO STAY: For a complete perspective, spend a couple of nights at the northern end of the lake in Puno, Peru, and a couple at the southern end in Copacabana, Bolivia. In Puno, the best place is the elegant Colon Inn (290 Calle Tacna, 011-51-51- 357-090, www.coloninn.com), where double rooms, including a full breakfast, go for about $100 a night. In Copacapana, I liked the friendly hostel La Cupula (1-3 Calle Michel Perez, 011-591-2862-2029, www.hotelcupula.com), which has breathtaking views and excellent service. It's also a good base for travel anywhere in Bolivia. The finest double -- a wonderfully decorated room with a lake view -- goes for around $35 a night.

GETTING AROUND: You can make reservations at short notice for excursions on the lake. In Puno, try All Ways Travels (www.titicacaperu.com), a reputable eco-friendly firm with English-speaking guides. A trip to the floating islands and Taquile will take a whole day and cost around $25 a person. The company can also arrange overnight stays with families in Taquile for around $15 more.

In Copacabana, Grace Tours (011-51-51-0862-2160) is a safe, reliable operator offering outings to Isla del Sol and other islands across the lake. The boats are not always the best, but they get you there. A day trip without a guide is about $20 a person. Tours with an English-speaking guide cost twice that.

A reliable travel agency offering package trips to the Lake Titicaca basin is Washington's Solar Tours (800-388-7652, www.solartours.com). Excursions including flights from D.C. to La Paz and three nights in the Titicaca basin start at $1,217 per person.

INFORMATION: For general information on the lake from the Bolivian side, try the Embassy of Bolivia, 202-483-4410, www.bolivia-usa.org. The Rough Guide to Bolivia also provides a thorough overview. For the Peruvian side, start with Prom Peru, the country's main tourism office, 011-51-1-224-3121, www.peru.org.pe.

-- Gary Lee