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Talk About Travel

Multigenerational trips, Costa Rica honeymoon, Canada and your passport...

The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, May 10, 2004; 2:00 PM

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

The Flight Crew, from left: John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs. (Melissa Cannarozzi - for The Post)

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The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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The Flight Crew: Gary Lee here acting as your flight captain today. With the onset of lovely spring weather, we have several staff members out on the road. Thus, the crew is smaller than usual today. Besides yours truly, we have KC Summers, editor of the travel section, Steve Hendrix, staff writer and editor of Escapes, Carol Sotilli, staff writer and q and a maven and Andrea Sachs, copy editor and writer. As usual, please feel free to add your thoughts to questions asked in addition to asking your own.

With school vacations upcoming, some of you are probably contemplating multi-generational trips. So the question for the day is: based on your own experiences, can you suggest any destinations that are best for trips involving different generations or tips that would make them more successful. The person with the best, most succinct answer wins a wonderful set of scented candles.

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Alexandria, Va.: Great piece in Sunday's Post on visiting Normandy, France. My wife and I visited Normandy for the 59th anniversary of D-Day last year the first few days of our honeymoon, before we drove down to Paris. Normandy is an island of sanity in postmodern France. We ran into many World War II veterans from throughout Europe and the U.S. We stayed in Bayeux, and our D-Day guide was named Stefan, same as the guide quoted in your story. Anyway: We are going back. I recommend the trip. Truly inspiring to all Americans, and to Europeans, many of whom could stand to be reminded of the huge sacrifice America made to save it from disaster 60 years ago. Great piece.

The Flight Crew: Alex, thanks for that ground-level report, and glad you liked the piece. Normandy is indeed an island of sanity. We got a wonderful letter this morning from a reader who was on a Normandy tour a couple of years ago, along with an aged veteran who had a hard time getting around. Everyone treated him like royalty and helped him see and do all that he was able to. Then one night, in the middle of the trip, he died in his hotel room. His wife continued on, feeling grateful that he'd been able do as much as he did. Incredible story. -- KC

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Alexandria, Va.: Want to take wife who will be in late-second trimester out of the mid-July heat of Washington DC. Have enough AA frequent flier miles to go anywhere in the continental US and Canada. Prefer a non-stop destination with a more temperate mid-summer climate. Thinking of a resort like the Greenbriar or the Broadmoor, but not those specific locations. Got no clue. Any ideas?

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Go to San Diego. I was pregnant with both my children while living there, and I was never uncomfortable. Climate is lovely (72 average in summer) and you can take long walks on the easy-to-maneuver walkways along the beaches, eat nice meals, and just relax. I like staying in Coronado - the Marriott there is quite nice and you can get good deals (try www.sidestephotels.com and www.hotwire.com). La Jolla is also great. Go to www.sandiego.org for more info.

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Charlotte, NC: I'd really appreciate an answer to this question.

I'm flying from Charlotte to St Lucia for 2 weeks over Xmas this year. Right now American Airlines shows the fare as $847. Is this good? Is it likely to drop substantially in the next few months, or should I buy now?

Thanks!; This is a great resource, and an entertaining one too!;

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Ow. That sounds very high. But if you're going right around the Christmas holidays, that may be as good as it gets - that's the most expensive time to visit the Caribbean. Also, from Charlotte, you're not going to get that much competition, so the prices are not likely to go down. If you need to travel certains days, times, I'd buy now. But if you are flexible at all, wait and keep checking fares.

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Los Angeles, Calif.: Hi, I am planning a honeymoon in August from the
1st to the 15th, and the two finalist places are
Honduras and Costa Rica. Am I crazy for
considering Honduras? The plan would be 7
nights of relaxation at the Lodge at Pico Bonito,
then 3 nights at Roatan for snorkelling, and 3
nights in Copan checking out the ruins, then
home. In my mind, it seems easier and quieter
and more relaxed than Costa Rica, where we
would have to rent a car and encounter more
tourists. Thoughts? Oh, and the Costa Rica
itinerary would be: Flor Blanca 2 nights, 3 nights
around springs and Arenal volcano, 4 nights in
Monteverde, 4 nights in Tamarindo, home.
Thanks very much.

The Flight Crew: You're not crazy, you're cutting edge! Honduras was one of our picks last January for the hot destinations of 2004. It's the perfect spot for those who think Costa Rica is too discovered and overrun, and who feel that even Belize is getting to be too touristy. Like Belize, Honduras has fabulous rainforests, ruins, mountains, and 400 miles of Caribbean coastline, with great scuba diving and snorkeling. And Copan is one of the top archeological sites in Central America. Go for it! -- KC

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Help me, Obi Wan Kenobis, you're my only hope: Going to Spain this summer. Starting in Barcelona and want to travel the coast to Lisbon. What's the best way to get around? Go euro rail, or is there a better national system? Bus? Hitchhike?
Also, any recommendations on where to stop besides Sevilla?

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee, who has traveled a bit in that part of the world, says: the bus system is a bit erratic, so I wouldn't count on it. Eurail is probably your best bet. Trains are fine although they tend to be a bit slow and may bypass some of the wonderful villages along the way.

Besides Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada are must stops in Andulicia.

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Reston, Va. : Mutigenerational trip? No where else but family week at Omega, a retreat center in Rhinebeck, NY. Everyone has their own workshop-but meals and free time together. Perfect. Togetherness but independence and NO ONE has to cook or clean. That is imperative. Elizabeth V.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, Reston, good answer, says Gary.

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The Wild Blue Yonder: Hi guys (submitting early):

Let's say, hypothetically speaking, that I bought a round-trip ticket but only intend to use one leg of the ticket (in order to save money--the logic of charging so much for one-way tickets escapes me). I suppose the airline will be cross if I don't show up for the second half of the trip, but they can't, uh, DO anything to me, can they? That is, blacklist me from flying with them again? Or is this the risk one takes in order to save money?

Many thanks!;

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: The airlines prohibit this type of thing in the contract of carriage, a legal document that you agree to by buying a ticket. But everyone does it and I've not heard of the airline police going after anyone. Does that make it right? Probably not, but rebels argue that it shouldn't be so much more expensive to go one way instead of round trip. Some airlines, such as Southwest, offer cheaper one-way fares.

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Multi Generational Tip: Great question today, my family did something made the trip fun for everyone, and that I now realize made for dynamic family vacations. When we would go on vacation (New Orleans, London, you name it) each person would get a day. During that day they got to decide what the group would do. Everyone had to go along with it and the one condition was that you couldn't complain. Not only did this give us days of activities without one person planning the whole thing - but it also stretched the breadth of the activities. The kids had to be more grown-up when doing what the adults wanted and the grown-ups got to let loose while at the zoo, the wax museum, ice skating. And because none of us were allowed to complain everyone got along so well. I just can't believe that when I was eight my parents let me decide what the whole family would do - it was really empowering!;

The Flight Crew: That's a nice answer, said Gary. Thanks!

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Brooklyn, N.Y.: We are seriously considering going to South Africa early 2005. We would like some recommendations of good tour companies to contact. We would like to go on a few game drives and visit Capetown, Victoria Falls, perhaps take the Rovos or Blue train for a bit, but mostly the wildlife portion is top priority. We would prefer either very small groups or individual designed trip. Thanks.

The Flight Crew: We have worked with 2Afrika (www.2afrika.com) on past safari deals, and the owner Ken is from South Africa and knows his country well. He also has some great bargains and can work with you to cobble together an itinerary.
However, if anyone has a favorite safari company they want to add . . .--andrea

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Big Travel Troubles!;!;!;!;: Please weigh in with some insightful travel information. I am a novice traveler who has to attend a family wedding in Italy, this August.

I have heard from several people that August is the worst time of year to go to Italy, and that everything will be crowded and expensive. That, however, isn't the problem.

We have a one year old (well, she'll be one when we go), and traveling with her and the expense is becoming a big family hassle.

One side of the family thinks we should go for two weeks, as we won't really have time to "enjoy" the trip if we have wedding duties for three days.

I think that traveling that many time zones with a one year old is going to be problematic, at least for the first week, and then another week when we get home.

Do you have any advice for traveling with a one year old? Is a short (four day) weekend trip going to be less or more taxing on the baby (essentially keeping her on EST time). Is it insane to try and hold a one year old for a flight of this duration, as it'll be $1000 for her seat?

Not going is not an option. Two weeks is the longest we can stay, but there are big concerns about the babies crankiness when we get back. Oh, how I am troubled by this!;

Any professional advice would be much appreciated.

The Flight Crew: This is trouble? You've got a chance to take a what sounds like a wonderful family vacation! One or two weeks in Italy can be the trip of a lifetime, if you don't let yourself obsess over the inevitable hard parts. Sure, taking a one-year-old abroad isn't all rum drinks and hammocks, but there needn't be anything ruinous about it.

Go for as long as you can afford--you won't be able to "keep her on EST time" even over four days, so why rush it? Her sleep will be screwed up for a days, and so will yours; big deal. Whose isn't? She'll get over it.

I wouldn't buy her a ticket. Be ready to have her nap on your lap, but don't surprised if you get access to an empty seat. Take your car seat (makes for nice sleeping) to the gate in case that happens. If there isn't an empty, they can gate check the seat.

And relax!

--Steve

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Washington, D.C. : Hi Flight Crew --
I need some advice on how to get a ticket refund a nightmare trip back from Italy.

Flying from Dulles to Milan, airline officials from, let's call the airline Mal-Italia, took the wrong ticket when I checked in, meaning they took the Milan-to-Milan ticket, rather than the Dulles-to-Milan ticket, like they should have.

A Mal-Italia official caught the mistake and boarded the plane to get the right ticket, leaving me with nothing but my receipt. He assured me that it would be noted in the computer and that I would have no problems in Milan.

You probably know where this is going.

A week later, I go to the Milan airport to catch my flight back and am told there is no record of what happened on the computer. And because of the time difference, there's no way to call Washington, D.C. and verify my claim. Long story short, I have to buy a second ticket to get on the plane, running me a cool $1,200 on my credit card.

Now, a month later, after filing a claim with Mal-Italia and having Mal-Italia officials at Dulles assure me upon my return that I would receive my money back promptly, a charge appeared on my credit card statement out of the blue yesterday, for, you guessed it, $1,200.

The airline rides themselves were awful, but that's a story for another day. Any advice on how to get my $1,200 back?

Please help!;

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Dispute the charge with your credit card company TODAY.

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Washington, DC: My (french) husband and I would love to visit Corsica this fall. We are frequent travelers to France but have never been to this island. Is it safe to go? Is there anything specific we should know/bring?

The Flight Crew: Wash, check out our recent story on Corsica, which we'll post a link to. It's very popular with the French, but very few Americans go, perhaps unnerved by the prospect of terrorism (though as our writer points out, Corsican separatists have been meticulous about not endangering tourists in their campaign for independence.) In fact, polls show that the majority of Corsicans don't favor independence from France. Our writer found it a gorgeous place, comparing it to the Cote d'Azure a hundred years ago. -- KC

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Cubeland, Washington, D.C.: Hello,

I'm hoping you or a reader can help me. My husband and I are heading to High Point, NC this weekend. Do you know of a nice restaurant in the area? Any cuisine is fine, but nothing too dressy. We are looking to spend about $20 per entree or $80 for a meal for two including wine. Thanks for your help!

The Flight Crew: Hmmmmm. This may be our first querie for eating tips in High Point, N.C. Clearly, we need to post this and scare up a good BBQ tip.

Readers?

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washingtonpost.com: Corsica: Where the French Go, (June 22, 2003)

The Flight Crew: Here you go, for the Corsica person.

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Alexandria, Va.: Here's a kind of odd question. How do I calculate how many miles it is from one place to another? I've been all over the United website and can't for the life of me figure that out. Thank you.

The Flight Crew: Check out www.webflyer.com/travel/milemarker, which lets you calculate air miles between airports. Pretty nifty. --andrea

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Greenbelt, Md.: When is the best time of the year to see the northern lights in Canada?

The Flight Crew: The best time to go is March or September. -Sottili

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Chevy Chase, Md.: Flights to France at the end of August - what price would you say buy at? Can better than $400 be done for Paris?... $500 for Lyon? or wait till later in the summer?

(Possibly flying into Lyon, too, or Paris & renting a car - friend of the family's wedding could be our yearly trip...)

Thanks!

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: If you can find $400 to Paris or $500 to Lyon for late August, book it.

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Washington, DC: What is the best source of information to plan a car trip throughout Scandinavia, especially June-July, to the arctic Circle to witness the midnight sun and related attractions.

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: I don't know if it's the best source, but I find the Lonely Planet and Rough guides guidebooks to Scandanavia quite good on this point.
By the way, a few years back, a friend and I flew from Stockholm to Kiruna, rented a car there and toured the region in late June. It seemed like a great way to go.

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Vineland, N.J.: Hi Crew,
I will be travelling for 13 days in Ireland. Plan on spending 3 night in Galoway, 2 nights on Dingle Peninsula, then on to Dublin via Killarney, Kinsdale, Waterford. My question, will I be missing anything if I pass on the Ring of Kerry? Thanks...Diane

The Flight Crew: Absolutely not, Vine. From everything I've read, it's wall-to-wall tour buses. I thought Dingle had the most spectacular scenery I've ever seen, with absolutely incredible views and wonderful historical sites too (beehive huts, etc). My only hesitation with your itinerary is that you'll be missing out on the wild mountainous scenery of the northwest, in Connemara and beyond. But as you're going as far north as Galway, you'll pass through the Burren, another must-see. Have fun! -- KC

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Deep Valley, USA: My experience traveling in Portugal a few years ago by train and bus was superb. There are a few ultraquaint narrow gauge railroads still in operation.

So don't restrict yourself to big rail lines, and enjoy. And learn the Portuguese word for window so you can get a window seat.

The buses were less reliable but even more interesting, given some of the things being carried on them.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, says Gary. Good tips!

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Harrisburg, Pa.: Good afternoon, Flight Crew!

I have a question that I was hoping you and the chatters could address: I am taking a trip to Toronto and Montreal, and I heard that Victoria College/U of Toronto rents dorm rooms. My question is: has anyone tried this, and what was their experience like? Also, does anyone know if McGill University offers a similiar service for travelers, or know of a good hostel in Montreal? Thank you!

The Flight Crew: we have no experience with this ourselves, says Gary. Do any clicksters know about this?

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Cleveland Park, Washington, D.C.: Oh Great Gurus,

People keep telling me how much I'll love Rhode Island. I've even had friends promise to visit often if I move there, they think I'll like it that much. Interestingly, no one ever has any specifics for me - no reasons WHY I'll love Rhode Island. But enough people from different parts of life have suggested this to make a visit intriguing.

So, if we go exploring in Rhode Island, and Southern New England in general this summer, what should we expect, when should we go, and what should we be sure to do? We're more interested in historical/cultural things and checking out the area. And we aren't wealthy, though I have started buying lottery tickets for birthdays and holidays. We're up for a long weekend or a week or two, depending on what we find.

We await your wisdom,
Cleveland Park

The Flight Crew: I am one of those Rhode Island lovers, having spent many summers out on Block Island. So, of course, I say hop on the ferry from Point Judith and take the hour ride to B.I. It looks like a little slice of Ireland, and there's some interesting island lore and lots of nature stuffed into such a small slab of land. R.I. doesn't have the crowds and chaos of Cape Cod, but has just as nice beaches and summer cultural events. Providence is a buzzing town with loads of arts and smarts (thanks to Brown); Newport is wonderful for its mansion walk and nautical sights; Pawtucket is rich with Industrial Revolution history. I could go on and on; best to look at www.visitrhodeisland.com and go from there. (And don't forget BI! See ya on the beach.)--andrea

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Bethesda, Md.: We had three generations at the Homestead last summer. Everyone had such a good time (my then three year old said he wanted to live there forever) that we've got reservations for this summer too. Wonderful kids' programming, dinner and dancing, and an amazing breakfast buffet. I'm with the Reston poster -- no cooking or cleaning.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, says Gary. Good tip!

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One Last Try, Va.: Hello!

My husband and I depart tomorrow for our vacation in Sedona, AZ. Please, is there anything we should be sure not to miss out there? This is a special trip, and we'd like to make the most of it. Thank you!

The Flight Crew: OLT, definitely take a jeep tour of Red Rock country. I used Pink Jeep tours (www.pinkjeep.com) and it was great -- though some of the elevations and hairpin turns can be a bit harrowing for those with a fear of heights. But there's nothing like getting right out in the middle of the Red Rocks, seeing Native American ruins, etc. The other thing that looked like fun -- though I didn't try it, too rushed -- is to take a dunk in a sensory deprivation tank. You know, when in Sedona... KC

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Potomac, Md: I took advantage of a $498 LA to Auckland roundtrip that Qantus was offering for June travel to New Zealand. Since it will be winter down there in June, can you recommend some of the best year-round destinations in New Zealand? I'd like to do some hiking on both islands, though I know the big routes in the south won't be possible during winter. My trip will be almost a month, and I'm planning on renting a car (27 NZ/day!;) and exploring both islands. Thanks.

The Flight Crew: Now I'm sick. THIS sounds like a great trip. Sigh.

There's plenty to do, especially if you're not a cold weenie (although some of the mountain roads, particularly on the South Island, will be closed). Queenstown, in the south, is a recreational center both summer and winter, lots of ski options and related fun around there. Christchurc, likewis, has lots of yearround appeal. Don't miss either of those.

Rotarua is an overly touristy town that I would normally not put high on my list during the summer. But during the winter its geyers and thermal baths have added appeal and the crowds are gone. It's worth a look then, for sure.

Lucky dog! Steve

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi -
The last time I used Super Shuttle to get from my home in Silver Spring to BWI, the driver was 35 minutes late and I had to SCRAMBLE to get through security and then to the gate in time to make my flight. The time before that, the driver drove from Silver Spring to BWI with his gas tank on "E" and the "out of gas" light on. We (the passengers & I) were terrified that we'd end up stranded by the side of 95N. The time before that, the driver said that Super Shuttle didn't take credit cards (they do) and I had to pay with cash (it turns out that he forgot his credit card slips). Obviously, I'm a little more than done with Super Shuttle and was wondering if you guys had a list of some other more reliable transportation alternatives for going to and from a home in the DC Metro area to National, BWI, and Dulles airports?

Thanks for your help.

The Flight Crew: Well, for National: the Metro. For Dulles, the 5A bus from L'Enfant Plaza; and for BWI, the MARC train (or Amtrak for weekends).
All of the different transportation options are listed on the airport's Web sites.--andrea

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Washington, D.C.: I am spending the last week in May in Lake Tahoe (renting a cabin with another couple). My husband and I have never been to Lake Tahoe. Is there anything that we shouldn't miss (great restaurants, casinos, day spas, drives to the wine country)? We want this to be a fun & relaxing week. Thanks very much for your help.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: If you're into the outdoors, the hiking in Lake Tahoe is incredible. There are several beautiful state parks (D.L. Bliss is my favorite) and the ski resorts are even fun in summer (gondola rides, restaurants, even a pool complex at the top of the mountain at Squaw). South Lake Tahoe is casino city - not my favorite area, but a good change of pace for a day or two. Truckee is a quaint city not far from Tahoe that offers neat restaurants, shopping and bakeries.

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Washington, D.C.: Are there any hotels or rental homes in Panama which have a view of the Canal? Someplace where you could sit on a balcony and see dozens of ships go by hour after hour?

The Flight Crew: We don't know of any off hand, answered Gary. Does anyone out there have a suggestion?

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Confusion, Anxiety: Help!; I am so confused!; I am traveling with my family to Canada later this month and I have not been able to get a definitive answer to the US/Canada entry requirements.

My husband and I both have recently expired passports and my understanding had been that would be sufficient. However a call to the state department garnered the answer that no, the passport must be current, other sources say it is. So I scheduled an appointment at the local in-person agency to do the renewal. Then one of my co-workers said, no, they traveled to Canada in January on an expired passport with no problems.

I know we could use birth certificates, plus ID, but then I also need the marriage certificate, etc and it gets complicated. I tend to believe that the expired passport would be sufficient, but certainly don't want to have any trouble at the border. Then again, we're talking about $120 in expedite fees...Any advice?

By the way, we'll be traveling around Nova Scotia, doing a bird tour and Cape Breton etc. Any thoughts on "must-sees"?

THANK YOU!;

The Flight Crew: I can answer the first question, but not the second. Despite what other people say, and have experienced (i.e., I got in using my dog's tags, my Blockbuster ID, etc.), the official word from the Canadian Embassy is that, yes, you do need a valid passport. With security these days, I would not risk it; you do not want to have to turn around mid-trip and head south. So, we say go update your passport and have a stress-free trip.--andrea

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Washington, DC: I am heading to Thailand in August and would like to go to Koh Chang. Do you think it's too rainy to enjoy and/or have safe transport by boat there? It was back in '99 but things have improved. Any thoughts?

The Flight Crew: Good for you, Wash, for choosing such a great island -- not many people have even heard of Ko Chang. It's one of the prettiest beaches I've ever seen, and the best part was that we were literally the only Americans there -- it was mostly Thais. Incredible bargains -- as I recall, we paid soemthing like $25/night for a nice, roomy beachfront room. But I'm not answering your question about rain, 'cause I'm not sure. The stats for August don't look that bad, but I haven't visited then -- and since it's only accessible via ferry, the difference could be critical. Anyone ever tried this in August? -- KC

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Ashburn, Va.: Gatlinburg had everything for everyone -- beautiful Smokey Mountains, mini golf and Ripleys for the kids, old-time dinner shows for grannies, amusement parks. I went last year and thought it was the wierdest mix of things I've ever seen.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, Ashburn, said Gary. So are you recommending it or not?

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Arlington, Va.: Multi-generational trip-- I took a 7 day cruise with family members ranging in age from 6 to 80, and it was great. You have total leeway in being as active or as relaxed as you want on board the ship, and at ports you can choose from a whole range of activities, from taking a tour by car, to walking, to various death defying activities. Oh yeah, and there are plenty of food choices for everyone.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, said Gary. Nice tip!

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Princeton, NJ: I've booked a spiritual trip to Burma with a group in the fall.
I'm having difficulty making up my mind about travel on my own before this: Is it easier to travel alone in Japan or VietNam?
Also- what is the best time to book flights for this multi destination sojourn? Which of the co's like Orbitz, Travelocity, etc is best? Is this a travel agent project vs internet?
Thanks
Jean

The Flight Crew: Of the two, its probably easier to travel alone in Japan than in Vietnam (although much more expensive). Still, Vietnam boast a pretty mature travel infrastructure these days, and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend any reasonably confident traveler from going solo there.

Best time to book? Depends on when you're going. Start looking now, and explore the consolidators. They often have good fares to Asia. And try all the web company. I like sidestep.com for comparisons, but I always try all the big ones, plus the major pertinent carriers. Of course, a travel agent can do all this for you, if you're not familiar with the drill.


-Steve

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re: Africa wildlife: I would like to urge the person considering going to South Africa for the wildlife to reconsider and go to Tanzania instead. My husband and I have made two trips to Tanzania with Thomson Safaris (www.thomsonsafaris.com) and had a great trip both times. Tanzania is politcally stable and has highly successful wildlife parks with huge animal populations. The IMAX video on the Serengeti and all those National Geographic videos on Ngorongoro Crater don't begin to do them justice.

While in Tanzania we met many people who had been to South Africa and had not seen the wildlife we'd seen in Tanzania. On both trips, we saw huge herds of elephants (with tiny brandnew babies), wildebeest, and zebra. We saw multiple prides of lions, with their cubs playing as kittens do. We visited many hippo pools and watched them graze in the early morning as well. We saw 6 cheetahs the first trip, and ten the second; 3 leopards the first trip and two the second. We saw a mother rhino with baby on the first trip, and a solitary male the second. We saw a serval on the first trip, and an herd of banded mongoose the second trip (which the guide had never seen before--I highly recommend gettin gup VERY early and going out before breakfast, if you can). We saw lots of giraffes, including two newborns.

Tanzania also offers Olduvai Gorge, where there is a tiny but fascinating museum of early humans. We also visited both Maasai and Meru villages, and even were offered the chance to drink cow blood at one Maasai village. (We turned it down.)

The Flight Crew: Thanks for the great tip!

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Baltimore, Md.: Please help! Submitting this for my parents. Long story short, they were planning to fly my grandmother to Paris (air france) July 4, stay there with her until July 8, then put her on the plane home to India (also on air france), and come back to the US July 12. They have non-refundable tickets (1100 RT, I'm so ashamed, my dad's usually better than that!) She's become sick, and my mom wants to see her all the way home. With language issues (she speaks Hindi, Bengali, and Japanese, but no French and very poor english), my mom's terrified of what could happen on the plane. The flight is completely sold out. My best idea was to have my brother (21) him hop forward to India with one parent who'd throw away their AF tickets, or connect somewhere in Europe (my parents are also in their 60s, so I'm freaking out at the idea of them alone in Indian heat, especially after my dad's heart attack), and be there to meet, and the other parent take a plane to Amsterdam and fly a cheaper Luftansa flight to Delhi. Also, my grandmother's ticket is actually a round trip beginning in the US, for return to the US - so of course if she throws the first part away the whole thing is lost. I'm not sure if you have any idea about how to appeal to AF, or if the best idea is to throw away all three tickets, and book the three of them together. Sorry, this is long and an odd request, but I was hoping you wonderful people could help.

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Your story is a good reason why people who spend lots on air tickets should take out travel insurance (just make sure you read the fine print). But that's not going to help you now. I'm very confused by your story, and I don't know how sick your grandmother is, but if she is that ill, perhaps she should just stay here awhile longer. In that case, you could get a note from her doctor saying she cannot travel and then submit that to Air France. They might give you a break. Also, I can't believe that these tickets are truly nonrefundable - I think you'll be able to rebook if you pay the penalty fee. I'd go down to an Air France ticket office (I believe there is one on Connecticut Avenue) and explain the situation to a live person.

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Vacation for pregnant wife: I second San Diego!;!; Never uncomfortable, fun neighborhoods, and beautiful nature nearby. We especially loved Coronado Island and The Glorietta Bay Inn.

The Flight Crew: Great minds think alike.

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San Diego, Calif.: Hey crew, I'm a former DC resident and have to say that these weekly chats are one of the great things in the world of travel journalism. That being said, looking to go to Hawaii this summer for about a week....worth it to go for one of the bigger resorts (the Kauai Hyatt in particular was recommended to me) or try to find a place (maybe a condo) a little cheaper? Debating back and forth between the worth of saving a couple hundred bucks or going all out with the idea that we only travel there every few years (and I haven't been there in some 20 years).
Thanks!

The Flight Crew: To me, it would depend on the condo and whether you have a yen to be on the beach a lot. If you got one that really is hard abrest a beach and all the attendent activity, that sounds swell. Always nice to cook a few meals at "home" (and have breakfast there daily). But if you're going to be a drive away from the beach, tucked away from it all, I'd probably opt for the resort for a short one-week stay.

I'm going there this summer too! (but will stay with family)

--Steve

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Washington DC: To get to BWI, I find the B30 bus from the Greenbelt much easier than Amtrak or MARC. And it's even nicer than the bus to Dulles; since it's an express, there are no stops, and there are cushy seats and luggage racks!;

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: I agree fully. It's one way that I often go to BWI.

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Ashburn, Va.: Me again. I would recommend Gatlinburg. It was definitely different

The Flight Crew: Thanks, says Gary.

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Chesapeake Beach, Md.: My wife and I have a time share booked in Cairns, Australia for Dec 26 '04 to Jan 2 '05. Would like to take the train from Brisbane to Cairns or visa versa at the beg or end of that week. When is the best time to look for the most economical air fare from DC? And would I be able to save by booking my air in segments as opposed to one round trip?

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: I don't think you're going to get any really cheap fares for that time of year - it's summer in Australia, and it's also the holiday period. I'd keep an eye out and be ready to book when a sale occurs. There's no cheap season to buy - fare sales occur when not enough seats are being sold. You may be able to find a cheaper deal by flying it in separate segments - here to Los Angeles, for example, and then L.A. to Australia. But make sure you leave enough time to make your connection - you'll have to gather your luggage and recheck it. And also make sure you're flying into and out of the same airport.

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Washington, DC: Will you be writing up any Memorial Day ideas in the next week or so for all us last minute (non) planners?

The Flight Crew: We most likely won't but best to check all the big sites for last-minute deals, like Orbitz, Expedia et al. Also, try Travelzoo.com, where companies might dump last-minute trips, and e-savers for various airlines. Most likely somthing will pop up; they always do!--andrea

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am I nuts?: figuring out a trip itinerary myself, how does this look?

arrive in Paris Saturday the 29th, spend 2 days there, on May 31 pick up car and head for Brittany - Morbihan/Finisterre. (know of any really good areas for horseback riding or hiking? just a half day ride. I love the wildness of the coast though)

on the evening of June 4 be in Bayeux. Stay in Bayeux til June 7. that day, head back to Orly airport (via Giverny) and drop off car. Fly to Geneva.

next day, train to Zermatt. Spend Tuesday & Wednesday nights in Zermatt. Hiking aplenty.

Thursday - Glacier Express to Pontresina, near St. Moritze. Hiking on Friday and Saturday. Saturday evening train to Zurich, stay overnight, fly home the next morning.

16 days!;!; thanks.

The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: It seems like a lot. I hope you are making time for a vacation after you get back.

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Netherlands: Are there any sites in the Netherlands you would recommend besides Amsterdam, Haarlem, the famous tulip gardens (starts with a "K," but can't remember the name), Leiden, etc. In short, anything off the beaten track?

The Flight Crew: Friesland, definitely Friedland. The 11-City Tour is lovely, as is the Friesian culture.--andrea

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New York, NY: This is so ironic that I live in NYC, but am posting a question about the city to a DC-based chat!; Do you have any recommendations for last minute reasonably-priced ($150-$200/night) hotel rooms here? I have guests coming in from out-of-town on Friday and cannot accomodate them at my tiny apartment. Thanks much!;

The Flight Crew: That's okay, we're nothing if not ironic. We're the original cheapskates here in the Travel section, and have had great luck finding NYC rooms under $150 -- so $200 sounds like the height of luxury to us. But you don't say what neighborhood you're interested in. In Chelsea/Union Square, I think the Gramercy Park Hotel is a great deal -- it's long past its glory days, but the rooms are huge and clean, and you can't beat the location. I think I paid something like $105 on Quikbook.com. I also really liked On the Ave on the Upper West Side, a clean, modern place just down the street from the Museum of Natural History and Central Park, with rooms (as I recall) about $115, also on Quikbook.

Those are just two examples -- there are tons of others. So just go to sites like Quikbook, Hotels.com, etc., and scroll around till you see something promising. Then see what others think of those hotels at sites like tripadvisor.com and hotelshark.com. Good luck! -- KC

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New York,, NY: I am a frequent flyer to Asia. I am thinking of flying Singapore Airlines nonstop from Newark to Singapore. It's a 18 hours flight on Airbus 340-500.
The longest I've ever been on a non-stop flight is approx 15 hours.
I was just wondering how our bodies can take or adjust to all changes in environment for the duration of the flight and afterwards. Also, how safe is it in terms of any unexpected change in flight path considering it is flying through the artic? Any close airport within 3-4 hours?

The Flight Crew: I've done that flight, NYNY. It's long, but it won't be much different that your 15-hour experience (it'll be about---let's see, carry the one....-three hours longer!). Some people get pretty hammered by these long flights. I don't mind them so much (in part because I have precise regimine of food, sleeping pills and timing I use to minimize jet lag). Safety? I've never heard of that route being riskier than more populated ones.

One good thing: You won't find a better airline for a long haul than Singapore. They treat you right.

--Steve

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multigenerational trip: We had a great quasi-family reunion a few years back at Niagara-on-the-Lake in Canada. The little resort town is full of green spaces and picnic areas, a main street with quaint shops, and a short drive to the Falls and all the more touristy area has to offer. There was plenty of room to spread out and do individual things and still get together for a barbecue and sightseeing. I think it was a few hours drive from Rochester NY.

The Flight Crew: Thanks, says Gary. That seems like a good easy place for a family...

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Atlanta, Ga.: Asia followups-

Vietnam is VERY easy to travel around in - especially making it to the higlights...e.g. Hanoi/Halong Bay, Hue/Hoi An, and Saigon/Mekong Delta. In fact, I would argue easier than Japan. Often in Japan, there's only signs in Japanese, while in Vietnam much English is spoken and signposted.

Buying tickets to other destinations in Asia while in Asia is often cheaper than buying tickets ahead of time in the U.S.

Thailand is great any time of year - even in the rainy season. Ko Chang should be fine that time of year and ferry systems / buses / ways to get around are simple, easy, and affordable.

The Flight Crew: Thanks for the sound advice, Atlanta.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi! Has anyone been to the Unique World Cruises before? There is this great price for $1,598 including rountrip airfare from JFK to Moscow and 11 nights exploring Russia (Moscow, St Petersburg) in September. I am real courious on the river vessel boat that they use on these cruises. Good? Bad?

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Unique World Cruises is a small cruise agency based in New York. It books various ships. Anyone out there ever book through them?

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Reston, Va. : To the man taking his pregnant wife on a trip.....try Nothern Michigan...go to Harbor Springs Michigan...incredibly beautiful town on Little Traverse Bay. You won't be disappointed. Weather fantastic...quaint little town.
elizabeth

The Flight Crew: Sounds good.

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Owings, Md.: Multi-generational outings. Two places that worked well for us was (1) Disney World and (2) Sandbridge in VA Beach. Disney worked well because Grandma was just as happy to stay with the little one when the adults and older kids went on the "scary" rides. Grandma had the stroller and people watched, and generally rested, while we did the big people thing. She was also willing to run back to the hotel for naptime - the baby's (and I expect she snoozed as well). Little one got special attention and the big ones weren't slowed down at all! At the beach, we rent a large enough house that everyone has a room and we rotate cooking/cleaning days. Sure, its not as much fun when its your day to cook & clean, but the other six days are GREAT! Having cousins and other aunts/uncles around to keep children occupied is GREAT. No-cost babysitters!

The Flight Crew: Thanks, says Gary. You're in the running for the prize!

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RE: Ring of Kerry: Depends on what time of year, did it at the end of Oct/early Nov last year & had a good time of it. Saw lots of great landscapes & beautiful rainbows (one started on our windshield & ended way across the way in a big field!;!;) However, in driving around - I'd almost double the amount of time you're expecting it to take compared to here as it just takes longer w/smaller & poorer roads, lower speed limits, etc. You'll enjoy it either way, but watch out for animals in the roads!; (we had a blast photographing cows up CLOSE!;)

The Flight Crew: Yes, cows and sheep -- gotta love those punky-faced sheep, spray painted blue and orange. Good point about doubling the time you think it'll take -- between the animals, the winding roads, the lack of shoulders and the looming tour buses, you'll go a lot slower than you planned on. -- KC

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using only one portion of ticket: A word of caution, if you are planning to use the RETURN portion and getting to your location another way, the airline CANCELS the return part. This ofetn happens to my husband when we have a trip planned and work travel unexpectadly comes up. He gets to our location and then can't get home on our original ticket. Big pain.
Northern Lights: we lived in AK and Canada, go to Alaska for the best show. You can get lots of info online thru the anchorage newspaper..reports every day of the year on location and intensity.
Family vacation? Clevelands House. Two hours north of Toronto in Muskoka region. Lots of family stuff. kids love it.

The Flight Crew: Thanks.

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Mutli-Generational Trips: My multi-generational family (usually numbering around forty) visits the Eastern Shore every year. Ocean City, Bethany Beach, etc. For us, the whole point of the trip is to spend time together, and we can do that on the beach, etc., but there are enough different attractions in the area that we can each do a bit of what we want alone as well. The big bonus is that the Ocean is within three hours for most of our family, so even those people who can't stay for the entire trip can come visit for a day or two.

The Flight Crew: Gary says: I appreciate your answer. Thanks.

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Atlanta, Ga.: NETHERLANDS FOLLOWUP -

The flower gardens with a K is Keukenhof.

The Flight Crew: Thanks. Well done!

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Passport and Canada: For the traveler to Canada, definitely update your passports!; My mother and sister learned the hard way that you need a valid passport (OR an ORIGINAL birth certificate) to be able to board a flight to Canada. One had a voter registration card and the other an expired passport with various other IDs. They missed their flight and had to drive.

The Flight Crew: Thank you a million times for backing me up on this. See it's just not worth it!

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Alexandria, Va.: Great segment on travel. I read these all the time but never have time to chime in. Well today, I have a question regarding flights to San Juan PR.
What would be a good price to fly into San Juan PR in August for two. I booked a cruise on my own and they said it would be better to secure my own airfare, however, airfares from this area seems high 450-650 range because I have to leave at least by noon since the ship returns to port at 7:00am. I didn't want to schedule a flight I may not make if it were to leave by say 9:00a. I may have to resort from leaving out of Newark, NJ where my mother lives. So my options are widespread. Thanks

The Flight Crew: Sottili here: Spirit Air is the obvious choice. Fare is something like $270 round trip out of DCA.

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Alexandria, Va.: My girlfriend is coming to town for a family reunion in Severna Park area.

She wants to be near but not "too near."

I suggested anywhere between the Inner Harbor Baltimore (or midtown Balt.) and Annapolis.

Any ideas for a combination of cozy, quirky, amenities and romance in that corridor or nearby for less than $200 a night?

The Flight Crew: Just having done an Annapolis trip myself, I can recommend two options there. The Historic Inns is three separate 18th-century houses right in old quarter. Some of the rooms are boring and many are on the tatty side, but some are charming and the location is perfect. And I was suprised at how nice and interested I found the Marriot. It's right over the water and has an excellent bar!

--Steve

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Grandmother To India - Another Lesson: Unless I misread the lengthy story of the sick grandmother to India (and I'm sorry that she is not well), I picked up another issue that may be slowing the questioner from going to Air France to discuss it -- I thought she said that Grandma's ticket was a RT ticket, but she wasn't going to use the return -- she was going on to India on another ticket.

if that's the case, and if it slows them from throwing themselves on the mercy of the airline, it's another lesson in the perils of booking a RT ticket when you only intend to fly one leg -even when the "airline police" aren't looking for you, it's pretty embarrassing to call THEM!;].

The Flight Crew: Sottili here - Can't use the second leg on a round-trip ticket. Airline will cancel your reservations.

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Charlottesville, Va.: My mother and I are going to London for the first time next Monday! What is the best non-touristy thing we should do there? We're adventurous, short of bungee jumping, and just want to try something outside of our guidebooks. Will be there a week. Thanks!

The Flight Crew: C'ville, I just like to walk around aimlessly, myself. Seriously, that's my favorite way to get to know a place -- no itinerary, no agenda, stopping in random tearooms/cafes, etc. Market are always fun, and cemeteries, and bookstore-hopping -- but all of these are in guidebooks. Pretty much anything you can think of to do in London will be in a guidebook. Oh, here's a slightly less-known site that I really liked the last time I was there, and there were no other tourists there when I visited -- the Sigmund Freud Museum in Hampstead, where he fled in 1938. A great little museum, and again, a cool neighborhood to wander around in. -- KC

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The Flight Crew: Gary Lee says: thanks for all of your great questions and tips. I appreciate all those who chimed in their thoughts on multi-generational trips. There were lots of good suggestions there. I particularly like the suggestion about having a different peson from the family plan a day for the whole group. You win the prize! If you e-mail me your address at leeg@washpost.com, I will make sure you get the prize.
All others, tune in next Monday, same time!

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