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In London, Dinner and Drama

A pre-theater menu (6-7 p.m.) offers two courses for $26. Choices sometimes include lobster and vegetable consomme or green lentil salad with scallop puree to start, followed by pan-fried red mullet with sauteed potatoes or creamy white mushroom risotto.

21 Piccadilly W1, telephone 011-44-20-7465-1642. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Tube stop: Piccadilly Circus.

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Christopher's

Nearest theaters: Lyceum, Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Duchess, Strand, Aldwych, Fortune.

American-style fare is the star at this handsome restaurant in a converted 19th-century casino that was once a Covent Garden bordello. Big steaks ($30-$40) and lobsters ($45) are its specialty, along with American classics such as Maryland crab cakes with red pepper mayo ($14), New England "Clam Bake" ($27) and pecan pie with maple bourbon ice cream ($11).

A prix fixe is available all evening; two courses are $21, three courses $26 (choices include Caesar salad, pasta or risotto of the day, grilled trout with brown butter, braised beef with a Parmesan popover, and pecan pie).

18 Wellington St. WC, telephone 011-44-20-7240-4222. Open daily for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. Tube stop: Covent Garden.

Joe Allen

Nearest theaters: Savoy, Lyceum, Vaudeville, Adelphi, Duchess, Strand, Aldwych, Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

Housed in the basement of a converted warehouse near the Savoy, Joe Allen is an homage to stateside sensibility. Inside, brick walls covered with posters and a piano man bashing out show tunes will make you think you're in New York.

The menu changes daily, except for perennial faves like the great eggs Benedict ($13). There are good burgers, too, although they don't show up on the menu. The black bean soup ($7), chili ($14) and barbecued spare ribs ($18) are other popular standbys. Desserts ($7) include slabs of pecan pie and New York cheesecake.

A pre-theater menu from Monday to Saturday (5-6:45 p.m.) offers two courses for $22, three for $26. Selections may include pecan-crusted goat cheese with fruit chutney, vegetable lasagna and chocolate rum cake.

13 Exeter St. WC, telephone 011-44-20-7836-0651. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Tube stop: Covent Garden.

Orso

Nearest theaters: Savoy, Lyceum, Vaudeville, Adelphi, Duchess, Strand, Aldwych, Theatre Royal Drury Lane.

In the same building as Joe Allen, but with its entrance just around the corner, is this Tuscan charmer. Tucked away in a spacious basement, the dining room is casually chic, with black-and-white photos and wooden floorboards.

While the menu changes daily, count on great pasta dishes ($13-$15) and wonderful thin-crust pizzas ($8-$14), along with specialties such as roast sea bass with spinach, onion and a potato tart ($26) and slow-roast crispy pork with sage potatoes and apple ($23). Dessert ($9) might be peach almond tart or warm rice pudding with red plums.


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