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In London, Dinner and Drama

A pre-theater menu from Monday through Saturday (5-6:45 p.m.) offers two courses for $26, three for $29. Recent selections have included fennel and sage soup or grilled vegetable salad to start, followed by a main course of rigatoni with wild mushrooms in a Parmesan cream sauce or grilled monkfish with roasted peppers. Desserts include tiramisu.

27 Wellington St. WC, telephone 011-44-20-7240-5269. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Tube stop: Covent Garden.

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Mon Plaisir

Nearest theaters: Cambridge, Donmar Warehouse, Palace, Prince Edward, New Ambassadors, Phoenix.

This family-owned restaurant has been seducing diners for more than 60 years with its wonderful food and French atmosphere. Like its decor, the menu remains firmly old-fashioned. Old favorites fill the menu: onion soup ($10), Coquilles Saint Jacques ($24), coq au vin ($22) and thin apple tart with a caramel sauce ($9).

A pre-theater menu (5:45-7:15 p.m.) offers two courses for $22, three for $26 (including a glass of house wine). The soup du jour or Caesar salad with char-grilled chicken are the current starters, with leg of duck in a red wine sauce or roast salmon available for the main; dessert is either ice cream or chocolate mousse.

21 Monmouth St. WC2, telephone 011-44-20-7836-7243. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, Monday-Saturday for dinner. Tube stop: Covent Garden or Leicester Square.

Rules

Nearest theaters: Adelphi, Savoy, Vaudeville, Duke of York's, Garrick.

You can bask in antiquity -- and classic game cooking -- at Rules, London's oldest restaurant. Through the centuries it has been a favorite haunt of writers, actors and even royalty. Bowlers and umbrellas hang from ancient hat racks, and cozy nooks are named for historic patrons.

Waiters in long white aprons dart about bearing cheese and walnut tart with spiced pear and apple chutney ($11), scrambled eggs and smoked salmon ($13), pheasant casserole ($24), roast breast of wild duck ($31), steak and kidney pie ($24), roast beef with Yorkshire pudding ($29), pistachio crème brûlée ($10) and blackberry crumble with vanilla custard ($10).

A $32 prix-fixe menu is offered Monday through Thursday (3-5 p.m.); choose any first course and main.

35 Maiden Lane WC2, telephone 011-44-20-7836-5314. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Tube stop: Covent Garden or Charing Cross.

Luigi's of Covent Garden

Nearest theaters:Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Lyceum, Strand, Aldwych, Fortune, Duchess, Vaudeville, Adelphi.

Luigi's is a true trattoria, with a joyful simplicity in both decor and menu. It offers familiar favorites such as spaghetti Bolognese ($14), penne Arrabiata ($14) and veal Marsala ($23). Venison stew with polenta is sometimes a special. Dessert ($10) might be profiteroles or apple tart with a caramel sauce and ice cream.

A pre-theater menu (5:30-7:30 p.m.) offers two courses for $18, three for $22; choices include mozzarella, tomato and avocado salad, grilled Scotch salmon with creamed potatoes and peas, and cheesecake.


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