GETTING THERE: Numerous U.S. carriers, including United, American and Continental, offer service from Washington to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, connecting at various hubs. Round-trip airfare begins at about $524.
GETTING AROUND: Santa Cruz is about 85 miles north of Puerto Vallarta. Allow at least two or more hours to drive, preferably during daylight. Roads are well signed. Reserve a car before leaving home, since rates rise dramatically if you book in Mexico. Last week, for example, Hertz was offering standard economy cars for $25 a day, National for $16. For the budget traveler with patience, cheap public buses operate along the coast.
WHERE TO STAY: Find peace and luxury at Playa Las Tortugas (Las Palmeras 13, Playa Las Tortugas, Otates, 800-320-7769, www.playalastortugas.com). Spacious two-bedroom villas with tiled floors and brightly colored stucco walls overlook a stellar ocean beach, and begin at $195 a night. Budget travelers will find clean, pleasant rooms overlooking the ocean and a somewhat rocky beach at Hotel Casa Manana (011-52-323- 254-9080, Playa Los Cocos, Santa Cruz, www.casa-manana.com). Doubles with an ocean view begin at about $40, which I recommend over the $29 rooms with no view. A lovely old-style Mexican hotel in San Blas, the Hotel Garza Carnela (Paredes 106 Sur, 011-52-323- 2850-112, www.garzacanela.com) has nice grounds and a first-rate restaurant, but is a short walk to a rather ordinary beach. Doubles begin at about $107.
WHEN TO GO: The area is blessed with year-round good weather. Turtles nest March through December, at which point the whales begin their migration past the coast.
WHERE TO EAT: I recommend the charming restaurant at the Hotel Garza Carnela (see above). Seafood, chicken and steak entrees begin at about $12. Hotel Casa Manana (see above) has an attractive outdoor restaurant overlooking the water; entrees begin at about $10. Or have lunch and spend the day at the upscale Club De Playa Etc. (along the main road between San Blas and Santa Cruz) on Matanchen Beach. Dine outdoors on seafood entrees (from under $10), which entitles you to use the pool and beach chairs along a wide, empty beach.
Locals operate numerous open-air restaurants along the beaches lining the main road, and you can get a sense of their varied standards with a glance. Try Ruiz, in the tiny village of Platanitos, along the beach road just south of Santa Cruz. Fresh fish cooked over a wood fire begins at under $10.
INFO: Mexico Tourism Board, 800-44-MEXICO, www.visitmexico.com.
-- Cindy Loose
