Talk About Travel

Seven days Down Under: A debate; romantic travel moments...

The Flight Crew, from left: John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs. (Melissa Cannarozzi - for The Post)

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

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You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions and a list of frequently asked questions.

The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Gary Lee: Greetings to all you fellow travelers on this Valentine's Day, 2005. Today we have a nearly fully staffed flight crew available to field your questions. Besides yours truly, we have the following travel experts on hand: Post travel editor KC Summers, deputy editor John Deiner; writers extraordinaire Cindy Loose and Steve Hendrix; writer and copy editor Andrea Sachs; staff reseacher Anne Mcdonough. While we know many parts of the world, we by no means know everything. Please feel free to offer your views on any of the questions posed.

On this special day, it seems appropriate to ask about your favorite spots for romantic interludes. Do any of you have favorite romantic escapes to share? What spots do you think are best for popping a proposal request. The most original and succinct response will receive a black leather compact disc holder.

Gary Lee: By the way, for those who have not caught it, check out the interactive map of San Francisco posted in the travel section on washingtonpost.com It's well worth a look.

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Washington DC:
Your article on the Christo banners in Central Park made me go to NY yesterday, and I much enjoyed the sunny but very cold day, along with what appeared to be a quarter-million or more New Yorkers in Central Park!;

Bonus points went to those who were wearing orange scarves, sweaters, or hats, and to the two Buddhist monks, wrapped in saffron robes, standing on a rock.

Three hints. The rooftop deck at the Metropolitan Museum closes at 3 or 3:30, so get there early. Syracuse University's Lubin House (11 East 61st street, between Fifth and Madison), is having continuous screenings, free, of films about the Christos and their projects. Finally, a good photo spot is overlooking the small ice skating rink.

Anne McDonough: Great tips--hope you got a shot of the monks on the rock!

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Washington, D.C.: Your "deals" column on Sunday had Independence Air's new west coast fares ($84/each way) -- is it safe to assume they'll be in business through at least early June?

Cindy Loose: I wouldn't assume anything. But I would buy knowing that while anything is possible, they'll probably be around through early June.

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Lusby, Md.: Hi Flight Crew -
Looking for hotel recommendations for Athens - we're going in May, would like to stay near the Plaka, would love a place w/ a view of the Acropolis and a rooftop bar/public area. Found a small place that looks intersting - Magna Grecia - but can't find any reviews of it. Also - for Santorini - do you have any feedback on either the "Ikies traditional houses" or "Oia Mare Villas" in Oia? We're planning 4 days in Santorini, 2.5 in Athens, and 1-2 in the Delphi area. Thanks much!

Gary Lee: Although we know Athens a bit and the islands, we don't know of a hotel that meets your recommendations. Does anyone out there?

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Washington, DC: My friend and I thought it would be fun to drive up to NYC to check out The Gates exhibit in Central Park and do a little shopping on Saturday. Is there a place outside of NYC that we could drive and park our car for the day and take the subway into the city?

Anne McDonough: Hey DC, coming up should be a link to a lab report we ran with last year's New York issue about parking in Jersey and then taking either the train or the ferry into Manhattan.

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Glover Park, Washington, D.C.: Hello,

I'm visiting England and Scotland in a couple weeks and was wondering about train service between London and Edinburgh? Is it reliable? I have looked at a few schedules online but thought I would try the chat to see what experiences others have had. Thanks!

Cindy Loose: I've found trains in Great Britain to be quite reliable and very pleasant. Would that we had the sense to subsidize our own.

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Bethesda, Md.: I've seen some decent fares on Sidestep.com but I'm reluctant to order tickets directly off the site out of fear of identity theft. Can I get those same fares through a travel agent or directly with the carrier?

Gary Lee: In fact, you don't order tickets from Sidestep. They refer you directly to the carrier or agency and you buy from them. We've used this process a lot and have never had any problems with identity theft, touch wood.

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Bethesda, Md.: Dear Crew, Thank you for a wonderful Travel section this weekend!; Two articles made me want to book flights ASAP.
I've been to San Francisco only once, and your great article on SF made me want to go (now!;) and explore it all over again.

The article about chocolate in Amsterdam brought back some sweet memories... My sister lived there for a couple of years, and her apartment was not far from the store Pompadour mentioned in the article. As an incurable chocoholic, I have vivid memories of enjoying the store's goodies. For any chocoholic going to Amsterdam, that place (and the wonderful neighborhood it's in) is worth hunting down. Again, thanks!;

KC Summers: You're welcome! Glad we could inspire you.

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Baltimore, Md.: What's your favorite hotel in Las Vegas?

John Deiner: Hey, Balt. I'd have to give the Venetian the nod on that one. The rooms (all suites with step-down living rooms) are huge and lavish, and the rest of the hotel is filled with restaurants and diversions to fit just about any budget. Plus the clientele is far less snooty than that of the Bellagio, which has a real attitude about it. And if you time it right, you can sometimes get rooms for under $150 a night, which are a real steal.

For mid-range lodging, I like the Hard Rock, which is off the Strip, but it's smaller, the pool is amazing, the casino is compact and cool and the rooms are nice. Also, you can't beat the view of the strip from the hotel.

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Arlington, Va.: My fiance and I are planning our honeymoon, and we are both very interested in Australia and New Zealand. We will have approximately 7 days, in October. Is this enough time to see both countries? What parts of each country would you recommend, and if we only have time for one country, which would you suggest? Thanks so much!

Cindy Loose: That's a joke, right? It takes you two days just to get there. If you really have 7 days total, I'd say either country is too far, period. Can you squeeze two or three more days out of it? If not, I'd stay closer home. If you really, really don't mind that huge plane ride for a short payoff, then you'll have to be extremely judicious about what you choose to do, and plan to return some time to actually see the country, or countries.

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Allentown, Pa.: I'll be in Santiago de Compostela, Spain, for a week in June and would like a daytrip by bus or train to a coastal city. Any suggestions?

Gary Lee: On a trip to Spain last December, we visited Gijon, which was lovely. I believe that it can be reached ina day from Santiago de Compostela. By the way, I can also strongly recommend a guide called "The Pilgrimage Road To Santiago," by David Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson published by St. Martin's Press.

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Trains in England,,,,:
I have taken the train a few times between Scotland and England. I have often taken it straight to Glasgow though (generally stay there as cheaper and there is a train leaving for Endinbourgh every 30 mins and only takes an hour). I have done the overnight train and really recommend it. Also have done the regular day train and the scenery is stunning. They defintly have public transportation nailed over there. Once took the train to Oban, then needed to take a ferry followed by a boat on Mull and everything was timed perfectly. Only waited 10 mins in between each one and they were all in walking distance.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Romantic Spot: Thanks for the San Francisco mega-article. We're going next month and will definitely pack it with us.

I think one of the most romantic Valentine's Days we have had was in New York City. Last year, we went to lunch at Rosa Mexicano, then to a planetarium show at the Museum of Natural History.

So I could tell her I gave her all the stars in the sky...That was cheesy, I didn't really say that.

Gary Lee: Thanks and happy Valentine's Day! You're in the running for the prize!

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Alexandria, Va.: Posting early today...Thanks for the article re:SF. My sister and her family lives in the East Bay so I can stay there relatively cheap. My favorite area is Berkeley. Right on the main drag downtown is a delicious gelato shop, Mundo Gelato, try the pistachio flavor. Everytime I go, the line is out the door.

In Chinatown, try to walk through the back streets on a Saturday morning(market day). It's like being in Shanghi. Last year, I bought an incredible dumpling from a small storefront restaurant where I was the only non-Chinese speaking person. Had to use gestures but it was THE BEST dumpling I've tasted. Unfortunately, the name was in Chinese and I forgot which street it was on, so I guess I'll have to wander again!

KC Summers: Lucky you.... when you check it out again, tell us the name!

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Re: Athens: Divani Palace Acropolis is very good for the price. Many family run hotels in Athens are in bad shape - be careful before you book.

Gary Lee: Thanks much.

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Owings, Md.: Any suggestions on family-friendly hotels or restaurants in the Lewes, DE area? Our elementary school just received a Silent Auciton donation for a ferry trip between Lewes and Cape May- and we thought we'd ask around for other donations in the area - to bundle with the ferry trip donation. Thanks

John Deiner: Hey, Owings. We're going to throw this one out to the e-crowd. Anyone out there know of good hotels in the Lewes area?

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Fairfax, Va.: Most romantic proposal spot: I proposed to my fiancee at night along the Tidal Basin. It's perfect: It's usually quite private, and yet you can hear the water flowing from the FDR memorial, see the Washington and Jefferson lit up and reflecting on the Tidal Basin. It's beautiful.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the loacl tip!

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Christo's Gates: I wouldn't bother with the roof at the Met, the real experience is to be walking through them, not looking on top of them

Anne McDonough: I can't imagine that an aerial view wouldn't be pretty cool. Not to take the place of walking through them, of course, but seeing everyone ELSE walking through them could be neat.

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dilbert city: Hi folks, headed to Paris in a month. We plan on visiting Normandy, is it easy to drive to Normandy or would the train be easier? The train schedule does not appear to be very convenient.

Thank you

Gary Lee: You can do either. The problem with taking the train, however, is that there is a lot to see throughout the region. If you want to see Omaha Beach, etc, and the main sights, you could also take a daylong bus trip from Paris. We did one with a company called Paris Visions, which we can highly recommend.

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Washington, D.C.: I think anyplace tropical is romantic but of all the spots around the world, Anguilla beats them all. Crystal clear, aquamarine water, powdery soft beaches, no crowds yet outstanding accomodations and restaurants. The most romantic spot for a beach proposal would be secluded Limestone Bay. Alternatively, on the terrace at intimate Hibernia Restaurant with the full moon shining and a bottle of champagne on ice!

Gary Lee: Thanks for tha tip...

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Washington DC: Which is more interesting in late August/early September: Oslo, Helsinki, or Gotland?

Cindy Loose: We don't know Gotland, maybe someone else can help. As to Oslo and Helsinki, answer might depend on how much time you have, and whether you're also interested in areas outside the city. Oslo is much bigger than Helsinki, so might offer an extra day or so of interest if you have quite a bit of time. Helsinki is very nice, and going to the islands that are part of the city but just offshore would be fun. Personally, I could do Helsinki quite well in just three days; a week would be too much.

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Detroit, Mich.: Hello! Flight Crew advice to others has come in handy for me for a few years now, so I thought I'd through my own problem out to you guys. Here's the deal: a group of friends are renting a house on the island of Hawaii in June (11-18th) for a week, and I can't find any flight for less than 800-900 bucks to get there from here. Is it likely that the fares will go down before then, or should I just suck it up and buy the plane ticket at the current rates? I've never been to Hawaii, so I don't know if the rates are always high to go at that time of year. Any advice would be most appreciated.

Thanks!!

Andrea Sachs: That's definitely in the range, though it is off-season, so you might be able to find a flight for less. You did not say which island you were going to, but I found flights to Honolulu for $600 on Orbitz for June. If you are going to one of the smaller islands, then that fare makes more sense. Hawaii sometimes goes on sale, but no too often. If you can wait, then wait. But since you have to get there for specific dates, grab the best fare you can find.

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Parking Outside of NYC: We tried this during the Christmas holidays and would add an alternative that I do not think was mentioned. Park at Newark Airport and take the PATH train to the city. The problem that we found, and it may exist all the time, is that once you get off the NJ Turnpike it is only a couple of miles to the ferry terminal, but traffic can be a nightmare. It tooks us nearly 90 minutes to travel this short distance.

Getting off at Newark would have a lot of time and heartache. Also, if you do decide to take the ferry, make sure that you pay for parking at the terminal upon your return since the building in the parking lot is not open all day.

Anne McDonough: Good alternative, but parking at the airport's more expensive than the regular lot, no?

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washingtonpost.com: Getting to New York, (April 11, 2004)

Anne McDonough: Here's the lab report for NYC transportation options. Thanks, Kim!

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Washington, DC : My beau and I are heading to Paris this weekend. We're staying in the Latin quarter, and I was hoping you could give me the inside scoop on where to go for dinner. I'm looking for a place that offers the authentic french culinary experience, with prices ranging from less expensive to moderate. Thanks!;

Gary Lee: One of my favorite places in Paris fits your wishes. It's called La Mare Agitee on Rue Campagne Premeiere just down from the metro Raspail. If you go, tell Valery, the chef owner, that I said Bon Jour.

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Bethesda, Md.: In my opinion one of the most beautiful and romantic spots in Europe is little Hallstatt in Austria. It's squeezed in between the mountains and a beautiful lake. Really could not be any cuter. And apparently it's one of THE places for romantic getaways for Italians.

Gary Lee: Much thanks for sharing with us.

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Washington, DC: Does USAirways participate in any parter programs (like sky team) with other airlines where you can earn frequent flier credit on say, American Airlines, if you fly US Airways? Thanks!;

Cindy Loose: US Airways is part of the Star Alliance, which includes United and the following: Air Canada
Air New Zealand
ANA
Asiana Airlines
Austrian Airlines
bmi
LOT Polish Airlines
Lufthansa
Scandinavian Airlines
Singapore Airlines
Spanair
THAI
VARIG

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Washington DC: I missed last week's chat live, and when I read it I realized that I have a great "What's the best that bad fortune has ever done for one of your trips" story. I was traveling alone in Africa for work and had a midnight flight scheduled out of Ghana. After arriving at the airport at 10 pm and schlepping through all the lines, the flight was cancelled. They decided to put us in hotels and fly us out the next day. The people who made it to the counter first got to choose from a couple of hotels, always important in Africa because the hotels can be pretty awful. I had been traveling for a month and was exhausted and lonely. I chatted up some some other Americans, and we all decided to ask if we could just spend the night in the airport. They looked at us like we were crazy, and sent us off to a hotel no one had ever heard of. Turns out it was brand new resort, not yet open to the public. They had our names and room assignments waiting for us when we got there about 1:00 am, had starting cooking and set up a beautiful buffet, and we started ordering South African wine to go with it. We sat in the lobby til 3 or 4 in the morning, talking and eating and drinking and sharing travel stories. I had been on the road for a month, and this was the best thing that happened to me. I also had company for another day or so because some of us had them same flights when we rescheduled.

Gary Lee: Thanks!

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Is my house bugged?: I swear every time we are taking a trip, the week before there is a great article on exactly the place we are going. This weekend? You guessed it - we are going to San Fran. Creepy.

The chocolate factory, unfortunately, has age limitations on the tours. Any suggestions for parents traveling with three well-traveled kids ages ranging from 9 to 4?

KC Summers: Yes, as part of the Post's new circulation-building campaign, we've installed closed-circuit cameras in all our subscribers' homes so we can learn exactly what you want to read about. You've heard of Big Brother? Just think of us as Big Traveler.

Okay, family suggestions for the SF-bound. The San Francisco Zoo gets good reviews... Hike in Muir Woods or Presidio Park... Take a boat ride to Sausalito or Alcatraz... Visit the wonderful Academy of Sciences museums in Golden Gate Park, and the hands-on Exploratorium in the Palace of Fine Arts.

Clicksters? Other ideas?

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Normandy 3-timer: It depends on how interested they are in WWII and also 1066. Also how long their trip to Paris is, and if it is their first, third, etc.

I wouldn't go to Normandy for less than 3 days but that is me. I'd drive it, staying in Giverny either on the way up, or back. (actually a good first day trip - drive to Giverny, stay overnight, visit the gardens the next day. Make sure the next day is not a Monday).

Stay in Bayeux, visit all you can including the fine museum there... on your way back visit Arromanches (another cool museum, also mulberries) and then Caen. Another don't miss is past Caen, past the Pegasus Bridge even - Merville Battery. amazing. a wonderful little museum, I enjoyed it very much. it's in a German bunker.

that is what I would do.

Gary Lee: Thanks for your advice.

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Washington, DC: Hey there. Headed to Maui this weekend for a week, and I've got a terrible habit of trying to pack too much into vacations. There are so many great things to do there - what are the two activities besides beaching you (or folks out there) would recommend as can't miss? The volcano? Hana? Snorkeling? Thanks.

John Deiner: Hey D.C. You lucky lucky dog. Here are the two things I'd do if I was in Maui next week: Go whalewatching, and go whalewatching. Now is the peak time to see the humpbacks in the harbor, and it's just amazing--they're absolutely everywhere. I was there last January and we whalewatched four times, and were never disappointed. Lots of ways to do it, too, including catamaran, schooner, research vessel.

But given my druthers on another activity, I'd have to opt for a big ol' wonderful cliche: bicycle Haleakala, which is really fun. (No. 3 would be snorkel--particularly Molokini--and No. 4 would be to drive to Hana.)

Anyone else want to share?

Actually you can do all of this in a week!

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Bethesda, Md.: My most romantic Valentine's trip was to NYC years ago with my then-fiancee (now wife) during a massive snow storm. Everything was shut down except Amtrak and we said what the hell. We had champagne and sushi on the train, got one of those weekend packages at the Hilton that included an amazing brunch. We had to share a cab to Chinatown for the Chinese New Year's celebration: the snow was crimson red from the firecrackers going off; very surreal. The whole trip was a bit crazy, but completely romantic.

Gary Lee: Much thanks for that story...

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Another SF tip: Check out the fortune cookie "factory," I don't remember where it is, but a good guidebook may have it (try Lonely Planet or Rough Guide). It's off a little alley somewhere ... I say "factory" in quotes because it is little more than two older women making fortune cookies by hand. They give free samples, but one should buy a bag (or two) while you're there -- it's only polite!;

KC Summers: They make those things by hand?!

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Homesick: OK, as long as we're talking about local haunts in the San Francisco area, you can't miss King Yen on College Street in Berkeley for impeccably fresh Chinese food. The vegetables, in particular, are first-rate.

KC Summers: Excellent. Thanks.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi! I just found out I am heading to Bavaria on March 20. I am thrilled, of course! However, my passport is set to expire on June 20th! I bet you need a passport that is not going to expire in three months when you enter a European country! Should I go to the Washington Passport Agency and just get my passport renewed in person? If I do register in person with my about-to-expire passport can I still keep my old passport? (I have stamps in there that I would like to keep!) Thanks for all your help!

Andrea Sachs: You have tons of time to get a new passport, so you don't need to go to the passport agency (they accept travelers who have only a two-week window). You can do it by mail and still get your new passport within six weeks. And yes, as you get to keep your old one. See http://travel.state.gov for info.

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Re. Lewes,DE: We recently stayed at the wonderful B&B:"The Lazy L". We stayed there vecause they allow you to bring your dog so if you don't like being around other people's dogs, this may not be to your liking, but we loved the place and the people.
http://www.lazyl.net/index.html

John Deiner: The Lazy L, eh? Heck, I like the name alone. Thanks for sharing!

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Re: my Australia/NZ Honeymoon: OUCH. No Cindy, it wasn't a joke. I'm sorry we aren't all as well-traveled as you seem to be. If I had known it was an impossible task, I wouldn't have bothered to write in. I wrongly assumed this chat was for travel advice; now I know it's for making novice travelers look like idiots.

Cindy Loose: I apologize. I really didn't mean to come off sounding officious or nasty. Truly. Once you've sat on the plane for the number of hours it takes to get to Australia or New Zealand, you are simply hyperaware of how grueling it can be. The payoff on the other end has to be really high to make up for it. And it is, but even the greatest 5 days of your life might not be worth two really miserable ones.

I am so sorry to have come off like a jerk that I invite you to not only join the chat, but if you need more advice when you start thinking about other honeymoon ideas, I will personally help you research anything I don't know. Please forgive me.

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Washington, DC: Is St. Petersburg a good place to visit in the Summer? Is it expensive? Looking for an off the beaten place for our honeymoon. I know there's a huge Versaille like palace there (Petergoff ??)

Gary Lee: St. Petersburg, where I studied Russian some years ago, is an excellent place for an off the beaten trek honeymoon. The architecture and musueums in the city are world class and there are several palaces around it that are grand and make for great day trips. Summer is also the best season to go.

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Arlington, Va.: After catching the good deal on Cathay flights to Thailand we've decided to do 12 hour layover in Hong Kong on the way back to the States.
Any suggestions on what to do from around 12 midnight to sometime between 6-8 when we head back to the airport. Would like to stay out all night but I get the impression that most nightlife closes around 3am. I understand that Hong Kong is safe, but any suggestions on how to spend the wee hours?

Steve Hendrix: I just did that route a couple of weeks ago, Arl, on my way back from reporting a tsunami story in Phuket. I don't recommend my 12-hour itenirary (staying up all night in the airport hotel writing the story), but I can tell you the Hong Kong Airport Regal is very peaceful around 4:30 in the morning. I remember from a previous trip to Hong Kong how easy it is to zip from airport into town. The Airport Express (think Heathrow Express, only more Asian) takes about 20 minutes to get downtown (or you can stop in Kowloon). I remember it costing about 15 dollars, each way. Not sure if it runs 24 hours, but I'm sure it runs late and early (it serves an airport, after all).

You'll miss the most appealing thing about a flash visit to Hong Kong (the views), but the train dumps you at Central Station, not far from the famous nightlife district of Wan Chai.

And I applaud your all-nighter idea as sound jet lag management. Stay up all night, the go right to sleep on plane in the morning. It's a head start on your return to East Coast time.

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Washington, DC: I recall that a while ago you did a story on Vienna and The Third Man. Could you please link to that story?

Thanks.

washingtonpost.com: Vienna, With a Twist of Lime, (Dec. 12, 2004)

John Deiner: Here ya go, D.C. And thanks .com.

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St. Louis, Mo.: I know this doesn't exactly answer your question, but I can't think of a more romantic travel-related location than right outside security at an airport. There's nothing like walking out of the terminal to find a loved one waiting for you...

Gary Lee: We like that answer and it puts you in the running for the prize!

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Arlington, Va.: For the person honeymooning in New Zealand/Australia, I actually did the North Island of New Zealand in 5 days (total--after the flights were counted). I did not, however, do the South Island or any of Australia. Just driving around New Zealand's North Island took a chunk of time. Granted it was all SUPER beautiful and totally WORTH it, but very draining. So with only 7 days, give or take, choose one portion of either country and stick with it. (Of course, I would recommend the north island...very romantic--sticking with today's contest idea, from stunning vistas, great wine in the wine country, the extremely walkable cities of Wellington and Auckland, cool Art-Deco in Napier, and very nice spas in Roturua.)

Cindy Loose: And besides--here's someone who thinks I am wrong--they think you can do a piece of New Zealand with just five days on the ground.

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Helsinki in August/September: One big draw is the Helsinki Festival which goes on every year at about that time. The "Night of the Arts" is the best thing - galleries, restaurants, etc. are open until at least mignight with concerts and artistic "happenings" going on; there are concerts outside, people take to the streets and it becomes pretty much a highbrow street festival. I'm not sure when it is, but this link should tell you: http://www.helsinkifestival.fi/english/index.html

Cindy Loose: Thanks--I was there in winter but even then sensed there were lots of special events.

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Shepherd Park, Washington, D.C.: This is for Gary Lee (the rest of you are welcome to chime in if he isn't there today):

I loved your artilce a couple of years back on the Cyclades. We're planning a honeymoon for late May that will take us to Crete for a week and then, based on your great descriptions, want to take in a couple of the Cyclades the following week.

-Are there two that you would especially recommend these days?
-What's the best way to get from Crete to there?

Thanks for your always-helpful advice!

Gary Lee: Thanks for the kudos. If you're looking for off the beaten trek places with very nice people, good food and lots of history, I recommend Tinos and Andros. (I am not a beach person so can't speak for that.) You will be able to get to either of them by ferry. There's no need to make advanced ferry reservations as long as you check the schedules beforehand.

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For the person travelling to Guanacaste Costa Rica...: (from travel question published in yesterday's paper)

If I can follow-up on your response to a reader who asked about things to do in Guancaste, Costa Rica I would like to add some insights from our trip in August 2003.

First, great choice of location, but unless you have some need or desire to be in San Jose, pay the extra few bucks and fly directly into Liberia. It will save you at least a half day each way in travel time, allowing you to spend as much time as possible in paradise. Do rent a car with 4WD. We spent $225 on a weekly rental of a Toyota RAV4 including insurance. While the buses may get you where you want to go, it may not be on your schedule. Also, Interbus will not take you directly to Rincon, Manuel Antonio or other tourist destinations.

Speaking of Rincon and other major tourist sites, do not believe ANY posted distances. Rincon was listed as 10km off the main road, but it was more like 20km over roads that seemed more like the surface of the moon (which is why I would never drive in CR without a 4WD).

The beach area from Playa Coco to Playa Hermosa (about 20km south of Liberia) is outstanding with dozens of quaint and affordable places to each and relax. Our favorite was Pescado Loco in Playa Hermosa. If you choose to dive, get together with Diving Safaris.

We were fortunate to meet a number of ex-pats from the US and Canada and found universal accolades for Rancho Armadillo (http://www.ranchoarmadillo.com/index.php). The hotel and related amenities were not there in 2003, but the canopy tour is top-notch and one of the safestin Costa Rica. Our teenage daughters loved the rainforest/beach trail ride on horseback. Hundreds of monkeys, birds and other wildlife made this one of the best mornings of our trip.

Arenal is a must-see, but keep in mind that getting there can be a challenge. We met several families at our resort who did this as a day trip and regretted it since you are so rushed. If you have the time, take and extra 2-3 days and really get to know the volcano and surrounding area. Once the tour buses leave in late afternoon you have almost the entire facility to yourself. The coolest part of our trip was hearing the volcano rumble and seeing it ooze lava around 10pm while sitting at one of the swim-up bars. No guarantees, but worth a trip for the potential (near death) experience.

Gary Lee: Much thanks for your thoughtful input.

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Greek hotels: In Athens... The Plaka Hotel (or Hotel Plaka--they seem to
call it both) was fabulous, if a little small. Make sure to
request a view of the Acropolis when you reserve.

http://www.plakahotel.gr/

In Santorini, Blue Dolphin apts. is one of the best places
I've ever stayed. Kind of a cross between a hotel and a
condo. The owner makes some tapas type snacks some
nights, depending on her whim. If you go, and she's
making something, skip any plans you have and stay in
and eat until you burst. It's about a 5-10 min walk from
Fira.

http://www.bluedolphins.gr/

Gary Lee: Thank you for these recommendations.

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Colesville, Md.: Hi. My wife and I and our 2 sons (15 & 11) will be going to the Grand Xcaret resort this summer. It's the first family trip out of the country ... any tips? Thanks.

Cindy Loose: Don't know the specific resort, but it's Mexico, right? I'd say most important thing is to keep healthy, and that means avoiding not only water but ice, once you leave the confines of the resort. Also avoid fruits and vegetables you can't peel, again outside the resort, which I assume keeps Western standards. But do leave the resort--seeing a bit of the countryside is essential in my view. If the Grand Xcaret is in the Riviera Maya, which I'm thinking it is, check the piece I did on that area, and consider heading down the coast to check out a couple of the restaurants mentioned. Have a terrific time.

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Forest Hill, Md.: What can you guys tell me about Yuma, AZ?? I may be moving there soon and need some information about it. I do know there's only 2 airlines that serve the airport!

Steve Hendrix: It's in the Sonoran Desert and it's very hot in the summer. That exhausts our collective Yuma-ana.

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Washington D.C.: Dear Gang:

I love to go to off-the-beaten track destinations every several years and this is the year. What are your collective thoughts on El Salvador?? Anything good to explore or is it a good sit back and watch the world go by place?

The Q-man

Gary Lee: We don't know El Salvador, alas. Do any of the clicksters out there?

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St. Paul, Minn.: For Washington DC, who is going to Paris, try La Marlotte on the rue du Cherche-Midi...delicious food, nice atmosphere. The lentil salad is superb and easily feeds two!

Gary Lee: Thanks! Paris restaurant tips are always great...

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Washington, DC: Hi Flight Crew,

My wife and I are planning on going to Monterrey, CA in May and want to take advantage of Independence Air's low fares to San Jose. Will they still be around in May or should we suck up the costs and book elsewhere?

Cindy Loose: This question is too hard--I don't want to jinx Independence or harm their chances of survival, but then again, I can't guarantee anything. I'd be surprised if the weren't around in May, but there are no guarantees in this incredibly volitable industry right now. If it were me personally, I'd buy the ticket if it were alot cheaper, and maybe not if only a few bucks were involved.

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Washington, DC: One more NY question. Any recommendations for a clean, safe and not too expensive place to stay that isn't in the hinterlands? Need not be plush, but pleasant would be good. You're great!;

KC Summers: Depends what part of the city you want to be in. I tend to stay on the Upper West Side these days because that's where my son lives, and I'm always looking for those elusive cheap-but-stylish digs. I've had good luck at the Belleclaire (W. 77th St., doubles about $170), stylish in kind of a spare Scandinavian way, and with a great exterior. The Beacon at 75th and Broadway is also nice, but not exactly charming. More depressing in terms of style, but at least it's cheap, is the Quality Hotel on Broadway, up on 94th Street. Its great virtue is that it's near Columbia Univ, Central Park and the Murder Ink bookstore!

There's a variety of relatively affordable places around Times Square -- tourist places like the Milford Plaza (probably about $160). This week I'm checking out a new place called the QT -- I'll report back.

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for Lewes, DE: The Buttery, Striper Bites are good for eats...

John Deiner: Cool, thanks. And yer right...the Buttery rocks.

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To Bugged House: They could tour the Jelly Belly factory with their kids in Fairfield, California. It's about an hour northeast of SF. Lovely drive though. www.jellybelly.com.

KC Summers: A bit far afield, but good suggestion. Thanks!

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London to Paris? : Hi Crew!; I may have the opportunity to take a trip to London and want to know the cheapest and/or most convenient way to get from there to Paris on a Saturday. I feel like rail would be easiest (Eurostar) but how much is a one way ticket going to cost??
Thanks!;

Gary Lee: The cheapest way would probably be by air on one of the low cost carriers like ryanair. But you have to be careful because they may end up landing in an out of the way airport which is costly or difficult to reach from central Paris.

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Fortune cookie factory: They take them off the machine and fold them by hand, if I'm remembering correctly. It's rather amazing to watch, they are VERY fast, because they have to fold them while still warm.

KC Summers: Fascinating. Thanks!

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Down under in 7 days: Do NOT go that far for 7 days, even if that excludes travel time. The time and expense warrants a longer trip. Believe me, I've travelled to Asia for short trips, for family events, and it can be a hellish experience, with the long flights and the time change, in such a short period.

If you are looking for nice scenery and good weather, I'd recommend California. 7 days would be great to drive the coast, maybe go inland a bit into wine country (can I come??).

Cindy Loose: Good idea. The Big Sur coast is one of my favorite places on earth.

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Re: Family SF: We - two adults - greatly enjoyed a fire eingine tour of San Francisco, and I would think that kids would even more so.

http://www.fireenginetours.com/

KC Summers: Another good idea for the SF-bound family.

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Romantic Spots: Sure, the area outside the security check can be "romantic" but it can also be ridiculously depressing for those not getting picked up/dropped off by someone!;

Gary Lee: Yeah, I've been there and you're right. It's kinda like spending Valentine's Day alone...

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Recent reader:: Submitting early as I have a meeting. The advice is usually good, but you forgot key travel info for the person who wanted to take the 15 pound dog to Vietnam.

From USDA's website: If you are taking a pet to another country (permanently or for a visit), contact that country's consulate or embassy for information about any requirements that you must meet. The likelihood is that a health certificate will be needed.

Also, depending on the length of the trip, there may be restrictions upon return. See-
http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/ncie/pet-info.html

I took a cat to Japan many years ago, but I living there for a few years, so the hassle was worth it. I wouldn't go thru that for a 1-3 week trip.

Safe travels....

Gary Lee: Thanks...

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Arlington, Va.: I really enjoyed Gayle Keck's "Second Time Around: San Francisco" piece. A suggestion for 1st/2nd/anytime visitor to SF: San Francisco City Guides (www.sfcityguides.org). Affiliated with the SF Public Library, they conduct around 70 different walking tours in neighborhoods all over the city. And they're all FREE. I've done a few and they're fun and informative even for Bay Area natives like myself.

KC Summers: Great tip -- thanks a lot.

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Indianapolis, Ind.: Just read your article about Amsterdam chocolate. I was in Amsterdam twice this year, and could have really used some of this info. Boo-hoo it may be several years before I can get back.

On a more practical note, I will going to Boston this weekend. I have done the freedom trail, USS Constitution, the Isabella Stewart Gardiner, and (MFA?). Any other must sees for a person relying on public transport. Any restaurants not to miss? I expect I will hit Legal Seafood and somewhere in the North End. Suggestions?

Andrea Sachs: The T goes right to Cambridge, so definitely hit Harvard Square and the university's musuems (Fogg, Sackler, etc.). When there, catch an arty flick at the Brattle Theater and have brunch at Henrietta's Table in the Charles Hotel. There are also lots of good bookstores and cafes along Massachusetts Avenue. For music and an indie scene, my favorite place is the Middle East, in Central Square.
Back in Boston, stroll along Newbury Street (take the Copley Square stop) to see the chichi street fashions. Nearby is the avant-garde Institute of Contemporary Art. If the weather's not too frigid, then hop a cruise to the Boston Harbor islands.
I would skip Legal Seafood (it's now more of a chain; you can even get its New England clam chowder in D.C.) and instead opt for the Union Oyster House (it's been around since 1826, a good sign) near Faneuil Hall or the Elephant Walk for French-Cambodian cuisine (www.elephantwalk.com).

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Baltimore, Md.: I'm having trouble finding the answer to this question - what's the cheapest way to get into town (or more specifically, to a tramline) from the Prague airport?

Gary Lee: Anybody know the answer to this?

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Anonymous: we will be traveling to china in may of this year. We will start in Bejing, cruise the
Yangtze and end in hong kong. Anything
special we should know or be certian to see.
Thanks for your help.

Anne McDonough: If it's the first week of May, be prepared that most of the country has off so trains, flights, hotels and sights will be more crowded than usual. You don't say how much time you have, but going on the assumption that you are flying directly from Beijing to, say, Chongqing for the cruise and then from the end of the cruise flying directly to Hong Kong, I'd say make sure you have at least 4 days in Beijing (preferably longer, especially with jetlag) and in addition to wandering around the city see the Ming Tombs and the Wall (I always suggest Huanghua instead of Mutianyu or Badaling). If your cruise makes a stop anywhere Dazu, make sure you go see the rock carvings; they're absolutely incredible, and I'm not usually a cave art kinda girl. As for Hong Kong, I've been hearing good things about hiking the Dragons Back trail; no personal experience with them, but www.walkhongkong.com offers guided hikes there.

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Washington, DC: For SF bound, go down to San Jose and see the Winchester Mystery House...

Also, downtown Palo Alto is really nice. Stanford is there too.

For the geeks, go up and take a glimpse of Lucas Studios.

So many other things to do there....

KC Summers: You guys are great! Hey, if all you S.F. clicksters would just take a second and email us these very same posts at travel@washpost.com, we could publish all these great suggestions in next week's Message Center feature, for the non-wired crowd to peruse. Just include your name and town is all we ask.

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New York, NY: Italy-bound for the first time, and I have a few questions. To save money, I want to go off-season -- how's the fall, say November?

Also, not sure where to go... I would like to take ten days and was thinking of Florence, Venice and Rome. Is that practical? Is there a better itinerary for a first-timer? Thanks!;

Gary Lee: November is a good time to go as crowds are usually thinner then. You itinerary sounds just right for a first timer.

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Re: my Australia/NZ Honeymoon: Cindy, I forgive you. I appreciate your advice and will take it as advice from someone who HAS done it before. This is our HONEYMOON, and we want to go somewhere amazing. I realize we may be trying to do too much, and that's why I wrote in. I also appreciate the other poster's advice!;

Cindy Loose: If I can be of further help in brainstorming, let me know. Two thoughts: nothing says that the honeymoon trip has to be immediately after the wedding. I spent the day after my wedding driving from Pa. to Michigan, meaning we honeymooned smack in the middle of Ohio, but later had a great time in Hawaii--or was it California? It was a very long time ago. Could you get more than 7 days if you delayed departure?
SEcond thought: if you're hellbent on taking the honeymoon trip directly after the wedding, then go for a direct flight somewhere. A wedding is stressful--good stress, but stress--and you want to get where you're going asap, and with no chance of getting stuck in the middle of the trip in some airport.

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Frederick, Md.: Concerning the Autotrain, what stories have you heard about the service? Good or bad. How many vehicles are damaged during transport? I want to take the train to Florida and drive up the coast this summers. Thanks!

Steve Hendrix: I took the autotrain to Orlando last spring, Fred. I'm sure there are dings (they very carefully videotaped our car before loading it up) but our came out fine and we didn't see anyone else complaining. Overall, the service was delightful. We sipped wine and eat dinner, slept well and had breakfast, all while speeding along parallel to the schmoes on 95 south. Drove off in Florida the next morning uniquely ready to face Orlando.

We only took it one way, opting to drive back and visit kinfolk on the return. (And to resume our natural places as schmoes on 95 north.)

We'll link to the write up I did on it.

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Munich, Germany: While not exactly in keeping with the Valentine's Day atmosphere, lately, I've been thinking a bit about Husky Dog Sledding Trips. I cut out an article about a Canadian Outfit on the north coast of the Yukon, but I can't find it anymore.

I found an operation in Norway on the web at http://www.huskyfarm.de/winter/winter_en.html . I'm not sure how it rates with an American or Canadian destination, but the pictures on the website of the Northern Lights sure do look spectacular. Im just wondering if the huskies in Norway speak the same language as the North American ones.

Have you guys ever done an article on this type of foolishness?

Gary Lee: No.

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washingtonpost.com: Taking a Ride on the Autotrain, (June 13, 2004)

Steve Hendrix: Here ya go...

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Washington, DC: As a former resident of San Francisco, I thank you for not including the REAL finds of San Francisco. I know of even better finds that you neglected to mention. And I'm not giving them out!;

Ok, just one. For the BEST view of San Francisco, go over the Bay Bridge Halfway to Treasure Island.

KC Summers: Well, thanks for sharing, sort of.

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SF for kids: Right on the other side of the Golden Gate bridge is a Children's Museum. I think it's officially in Sausalito. Anyway, it has great hands on activities for kids and the last time I was there, they had an Arthur world, with rooms recreated from the Arthur animated series. My kids were so excited to be in Arthur's bedroom and classroom. Plus, the location of the museum is fantastic, just under the bridge--a view you don't often see.

KC Summers: Wonderful. Many thanks!

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Washington, DC: sfgate.com has a big area for tourists... http://www.sfgate.com/traveler/guide/

(sorry to quote another newspaper)

KC Summers: No problem, we're very open-minded around here.

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Switzerland: If you had only 9 days to visit Switzerland, what would be the must see places? Some have told us to skip Zurich and focus on other regions and cities. Any itinerary advice would be much appreciated!;

Gary Lee: It all depends on what you want to do. We like Zurich for its opera and shopping but if you're heavy into food I'd recommend Geneva. For mountain hiking or skiing, I love the Gstaad/Saanen region. Any other thoughts on a Swiss trip?

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Limited travel time: This chat brings up a frustration I always have with my more traveled friends. I've always wanted to go to any part of India but never have more than one week for travel. I always get dismissed, and hear that it can only be done if you have 3 weeks. Some of us aren't as lucky with our scheduling options, but still want to check out these places, so count this as another plea to cut us some slack. It's a reason I still haven't traveled to my dream destination, South Afrtica, but something inside me tells me I'm wrong

Cindy Loose: I disagree that you have to have three weeks to do anything on this planet. I would go anywhere in the world with less than two weeks, but sorry, more than one. If it takes me a whole day to get somewhere, then I need a day to just recover from the overnight flight from hell, then there's the day coming back. That leaves four days in a week. Six I'd do, four, not.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi there. Thanks in advance for considering my question. I am thinking about traveling to Germany in the summer of 2006 for the soccer world cup (assuming I get tickets). The general concept is to see 3 games in 3 different cities over a week or so. There are 12 host cities and I currently am in the process of doing my homework on a route. I was wondering if you could provide any feedback for the host cities that I know less about -- Hannover, Dortmund, Cologne, Leipzig, Nurnberg, and Frankfurt. Any of these cities favorties? Any that are worth skipping this trip? Any specific recommendations (lodging, sightseeing, travel, information resources) for the trip or for these particular cities?

Thanks.

Gary Lee: We know all those cities well. The ones that are the most scenic and have the most attractions for first time visitors are (in this order) Cologne, Leipzig and Nurnberg.

Hannover would come next. The only one on that list that is a must-see is Cologne.

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Rockville, Md.: Have any of you been to Bulgaria?

Cindy Loose: Funy you should ask--I've been 0researching that very country this morning for a trip. If you can wait until reading the paper on March 20--or join the chat after March 8, I'd have first hand experience.

As it is, I'm getting very excited---it seems fantastic, with the monestaries and ruins and lakes and black sea and mountains and hot springs. And cheap--three star hotels seem to be going for about $50 bucks.

Anyone have direct experience rightthis minute?

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Re: Greece: If you all are hikers: in Delphi there's a path up the hillside from the town that will take you to the top of Parnassus. It also affords great views into the ancient site and of the valley as a whole. If you just keeping walking up, you should stumble upon it as I did.

Gary Lee: Thanks...

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Honeymoon idea: What about Bermuda or the Caribbean? It's possible to go to some of the smaller islands that aren't so touristy and that would definitely work for a 7-day time frame.

Gary Lee: Thanks, good tip!

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Prague Airport: http://www.csl.cz/en/frames.htm

click on airport guide, public transit is available for CZK 12.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the link...

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Switzerland: Does anyone know what is left of the Swiss Expo sites and pavilions from 2002? I was there in June 2002 in the towns of Neuchatel and Yverdon, and the Expo events were a lot of fun. If nothing else, take the train from Zurich through the countryside and see the quaint villages.

Gary Lee: Thanks...

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Arlington, Va.: For NY going to Italy: One caution about
November--it does get rainy. Check the stats for
your destinations. Also in smaller towns, a lot of
restaurants and hotels close for the season that time
of year. But your three cities should present few
problems in that regard.

Jerry Haines
(who goes to Italy only in the off season because he's
cheap)

Gary Lee: Thanks Jerry for the insider info...

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Mt. Pleasant, Washington, D.C.: Hi Travel Gurus,

My valentine is in Honduras! In January, my fiance started a job in La Ceiba, Honduras that will last for a few years, so we'll be traveling back and forth between DC and La Ceiba a lot. I know you have recommended consolidators for travel to Eastern Europe, but do you (or chatters) know of one that specializes in Central America? I always check the ads in the Sunday travel section, but Honduras is never included in the listed specials.

Thanks for your help!

Steve Hendrix: If you find out, let me know MPW. I constantly patrol for the steady source of cheapseats to Guatemala, but haven't found one yet. Still, keep your eye on the obvious places--those consolidator ads DO come up with good fares sometimes, American and Taca put Central America on sale regularly. Sign for Travelocity's "fare watcher" feature, which monitors the action between two (or more) cities of your choice. (that paid off for us big time last week--saved $200 bucks on Guatemala fares that--zip!--were gone the next day). And if La Cieba is a hard bargain to find, look at neighboring cities, Tegucigalpa of course, but even Guatemala City (if you have a lot of time, there's a cheap but comfy bus between there and La Cieba-I've ridden it as far as Copan.

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Owings Mills, Md.: I proposed to my wife at sunset on a secluded beach near Punta Cana, and then got to hear the joy in her voice as she got to call all of her friends back in 20-degree Baltimore and share the good news. The best part? I did it at the beginning of the trip, so we got to enjoy the moment for ourselves for 4 nights before heading home to begin wedding-planning.

Gary Lee: Nice story. It could win you a prize...

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AUS/NZ Honeymoon: Unfortunately, I had the same reaction as you, Cindy. Not only is the travel grueling, I have always still been exhausted for a 1-2 days after getting off the plane in Oz. Is there something that particular ly interests the honeymooner about those two areas -- then you can pick that idea, just closer to home. For example, beaches -- California, Florida, Caribbean. The great green scenary -- British Columbia, etc, etc.

Cindy Loose: Great insight. If the honeymooner would like to talk it over with her fiance and let us know what it is they are looking for that make them think N.Z. and Australia, write in to the next chat and we'll all chime in with alternatives to fit that bill.

If those appealed mostly cause they seem exotic and you want the wow factor from friends and family, then some of the more obscure countries of Eastern Europe will serve.

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Prague Bound: My brother picked me up at the Prague airport this past summer and we took a bus from the airport. We ended up getting off and onto a tram but he said you could stay on the bus to go into the city center. Unfortunately I'm not sure about the bus number, but maybe there's a website that could help. The price of ANYTHING in prague is really cheap.

Gary Lee: Okay, thanks...

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It not just "well traveled" people: I think it's just a question of math, not something about being well traveled. Add flight time + recovery time and realistically see how much time you have to cover a destination. I don't think that the people who say you need at least X days mean to be snobby; why turn something that should be pleasurable into a painful marathon?

Cindy Loose: Thanks, all.

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Bethesda, Md.: It's payback time for the many times y'all have given me
good tips. Thinking of going to southeast Asia? Do it! Just
got back from 10 days in Vietnam, north to south; 2 days
at Angkor Wat, Cambodia; and 2 days in Bangkok.
Expectations were wildly exceeded. People were
wonderful, accommodations great, adventures varied &
terrific. Ever heard of SmarTours? Neither had I, but for
many in our widely-travelled group it was the 3d or 4th
trip with this company, which doesn't advertise heavily or
print glossy brochures, is an uncommonly good value, and
apparently fills its groups quickly. Shhh, let's keep it
amongst ourselves, okay?

Gary Lee: We always like great Asia tips and promise to keep it just among us....

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RE: First trip to Italy: To the person thinking of visiting Italy in November - keep in mind that November is the peak season for the "acqua alta" (flooding!;) in Venice, so if you don't want to mess up your shoes and don't want to pay an arm and a leg for boots, I suggest bringing rubber boots. Other than that, Venice is worth visiting any time of year.

Gary Lee: Good advice....

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Norfolk, Va.: My husband and I are talking a belated honeymoon to London, leaving Feb 26 and staying for 7 nights at the Renaissance Chancery Court. While we will certaintly hit all the well-known spots, we would love some suggestions for lesser-known activities, restaurants, etc., as we should have ample time to make the rounds. We already have your article on London from January, which was very helpful, but any other ideas from the Crew or the chatsters would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

KC Summers: Definitely check out the new Churchill Museum, it sounds fabulous. Link coming up. Also, try a couple of the city's smaller, lesser-known museums like Sir John Soames' Museum -- it's the most wonderful place, a 19th-century house (his) crammed to the rafters with paintings, furniture, sculpture, stained glass, and on and on. Just incredible. Also definitely try to get to the little Geffrye Museum in Shoreditch. It's got a wonderful series of living rooms that show British domestic design from the 1600s to the present -- it's fabulous! It's also where they used to house the old-age pensioners in the 19th century and they're re-created some of their rooms -- very poignant. Plus, it's got a great restaurant, and it takes you into a part of London most tourists don't get to -- you can combine it with a Petticoat Lane/Brick Lane market visit.

Anyone else got suggestions for Norfolk?

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Washington, DC: Thinking about spending a few days at the Sundance Resort in late May. Have any of you ever been? Advise?

John Deiner: Hey, D.C. Yes, I've been there, and wow, it's really wonderful. And wow, it's really expensive. Still, I'd go back in a heartbeat. Went in June a few years ago for a long weekend and it was outstanding--stayed in one of the cabins, which had a kitchen where we prepared a few meals. Also had massages and treated ourselves to a nice meal in of its restaurants, as well as brunch one morning. It was all part of a package that we bought, which offered a considerable savings over going a la carte.

So I'd vote yes.

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North or South Island: since it is NZ day, thought I'd ask this:

if you had to pick an island to visit, couldn't do both, which would it be and why?

Steve Hendrix: Have to be South, I'd say (and I'd say it as someone who also LOVES the North Island, but you made me pick between my two darlings). But the South Island has the best of the best, the best outdoorsy ops and scenery and the best overall town, Christchurch.

Now I feel terrible. I'm sorry North Island. You know how much I care for you. North Island?! Come back!

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washingtonpost.com: London War Room Adds Churchill Museum, (Feb. 6, 2005)

KC Summers: New London museum. Thanks Kim!

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SF visitors: Wow!; Thanks for all the tips!; It makes having our house bugged worthwhile.

I will send an update on how our trip went, kids and all, when we get back.

KC Summers: Please do! Have fun, and hope you make some discoveries of your own.

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Fairfax, Va.: I'm going to Taiwan for a wedding - anyone been there or know of any good literature for pre-trip planning?

Cindy Loose: I've been, and will post the story I did. but if you look at the story, remember that I was doing this not only for pleasure but for business, and don't try to fit in everything I did in the time I did it---it turned out to be too much. I'd say save at least three days for Taipei, don't miss the national museum there. If you can afford the Grand Hotel, grab a night there, if not, visit it anyway and have their dim sum--terrific. The gorge is an easy trip from Taipai and wort more time than I gave it. I.E. I circled the country in a ridiculously short amount of time, and highlights were Taipai and the gorge---details about where to get info is with the story I'll post in a second.

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Washington, DC: Please help!; I'm trying to book a long weekend trip with a friend for mid March. We both want to go somewhere warm. She wants to leave the country and have fun things to do. I want to be able to lay on a nice beach and drink something that's served with a little umbrella. We're hoping to keep it at around $500 per person for airfare and hotel.

Now all we need is the destination. Any suggestions?

KC Summers: For that price, you'd better think package deal. Check vacation packagers like Liberty Travel or Apple Vacations for deals in places like the Dominican Republic or Cancun. Not exactly exotic, but they meet the warm, umbrella drink and out-of-the-country criteria.

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Falls Church, Va.: Regarding limited travel time: My friend and I went on a weekend trip (4 days - including flights) to Costa Rica. And we had an excellent time! But it was frustrating running into fellow Americans who were also vacationing because we always got the "You can't possibly get to know the country in a weekend!" line. OF COURSE we didn't get to know the country in a weekend! We just wanted to eat rice and beans for breakfast, see a volcano, and some live monkeys! Which we did! Now, would I be able to write a book on Costa Rican culture based on my trip - OF COURSE NOT! But we had a fantastic time!

Cindy Loose: Costa Rica for four days---no problem. Of course a month would be even better,but four days, grat time. Im going to be doing Bulgaria in four nights, which is too little, but I'll see alot by not relaxing a little. But Asia, Aust., those places with 28 hour flights--if you only have a week, and unless you love the traveling part of travel, like sitting in planes eating bad food, fagetaboutit.

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Info for Guancaste-bound (from 2/13/05 Letters): If I can follow-up on your response to a reader who asked about things to do in Guancaste, Costa Rica I would like to add some insights from our trip in August 2003.

First, great choice of location, but unless you have some need or desire to be in San Jose, pay the extra few bucks and fly directly into Liberia. It will save you at least a half day each way in travel time, allowing you to spend as much time as possible in paradise. Do rent a car with 4WD. We spent $250 on a weekly rental of a Toyota RAV4 including insurance. While the buses may get you where you want to go, it may not be on your schedule.

The beach area from Playa Coco to Playa Hermosa (about 20km south of Liberia) is outstanding with dozens of quaint and affordable places to each and relax. Our favorite was Pescado Loco in Playa Hermosa. If you choose to dive, get together with Diving Safaris.

We were fortunate to meet a number of ex-pats from the US and Canada and found universal accolades for Rancho Armadillo (http://www.ranchoarmadillo.com/index.php). The hotel and related amenities were not there in 2003, but the canopy tour is top-notch and one of the safestin Costa Rica. Our teenage daughters loved the rainforest/beach trail ride on horseback. Hundreds of monkeys, birds and other wildlife made this one of the best mornings of our trip.

Arenal is a must-see, but keep in mind that getting there can be a challenge. We met a lot of people who did it as a day trip and regretted it since you are so rushed. If you have the time, take and extra 2-3 days and really get to know the volcano and surrounding area. Once the tour buses leave in late afternoon you have almost the entire facility to yourself. The coolest part of our trip was hearing the volcano rumble and seeing it ooze lava around 10pm while sitting at one of the swim-up bars. No guarantees, but worth a trip for the potential experience.

I would be happy to provide more info, including pictures and a trip diary/narrative. Please feel free to e-mail me at tkozikow-hotmail.com

Gary Lee: Thanks for this informative trip report.

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Arlington, Va.: For some reason, in the past couple days I've read a few things about Monte Carlo, and would be curious to know what a visit there would be like. Any thoughts on combining this with a trip through northern Italy or southern France?

Steve Hendrix:

I went there about two years and found the whole scene quite a hoot. Time is short here, so we'll post a link to that story. One bit of advice: watch where you step.

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washingtonpost.com: Oh, That's Rich, (Nov. 17, 2002)

Steve Hendrix: Kim found it? She's the fastest finder ever!

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washingtonpost.com: And Now, Taiwan, (March 14, 2004)

Cindy Loose: In brief, I really liked Taiwan.

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San Francisco, Calif.: Loved the story on my fair city this weekend! And I would definitely recommend the Exploratorium for the family with kids, I had many a great field trip there when I was in school. Also, make sure to pack warm clothes! Don't be one of the tourists packing t-shirts and shorts to SF in Feb. Another recommendation is to head over the bay to Berkeley, and wander around the campus there.

KC Summers: Boy, I know. I'm the one who gets off the plane in a down jacket, no matter what month I'm there.

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Jersey City, NJ: Hello Flight Crew,
I have a question about Morocco - how safe is it for two women traveling alone? Also do you know of any reputable tour operators for the area (short - 1-3 day tours).

Also, someone mentioned Mephisto's a chat or two back - were they recommending a specific style or the brand in general?

Thanks, I love these chats, you guys are so helpful.

Anne McDonough: Check the archives on the Travel page--we ran a story by Jackie Spinner last year on Marrakesh that may give you a sense.

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Washington, DC: I enjoy watching Rudy Maxa and Rick Steves on TV. They often enlist the assistance of local guides during their travels. How would I find a private guide to assist me during a trip to Europe next year (e.g., spots in Germany, Austria, Czech Republic, etc.)?

Gary Lee: Usually the local tourism office in the destination you're visiting has a list of local guides they recommend.

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Time for travel: I want to echo the person who says one week just isn't enough for some destinations. I agree with the Travel Team that two weeks is probably sufficient for pretty much anywhere, if you don't have more time -- 10 days may even be OK for ALMOST anywhere.

A piece of advice on India, since the poster mentioned it specifically. I would advise against going for one week, in part because of the expense. I have never been able to get a ticket for less than about $1000, and it's usually more like $1200-1400. I've known people who have had to pay two grand. Unless you're really rolling in the dough, that is just too much to pay and then have to rush from place to place and feel like there is so much more you'd like to have seen. Save the trip for later in your life when hopefully you'll have a little more leisure time!;

Even if you have two weeks for India, focus on one or two parts of the country, as travelling around the country is not always that easy or fast.

Cindy Loose: Time is popular today, but for good reason: to me, figuring out how to spread what time I have around on a trip is the hardest part of planning it.

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Washington, DC: My husband and I are going to SF next month so the weekend's article was great!; We are flying into Oakland...other than public transportation, what is the cheapest way to get into the city? We are staying in the Fisherman's Wharf area.
Thanks!;

Andrea Sachs: The BART is a great way to travel. Convenient and cheap. For other options, the airport's Web site (www.flyoakland.com/index2.cfm) offers a variety of modes of transport and the costs.

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Re: Honeymoon: While I love Australia too much to ever try to convince someone not to go, seven days is REALLY, ridiculously short. Oz is the size of the United States. Seeing it and NZ would be like trying to see the U.S. and Cuba--plus at least 27 hours of flight time one way.

I spent two months in Australia this summer and felt like I barely scratched the surface!;

Steve Hendrix: I feel like a rushed week anywhere is better than missing a place altogether (and I had a blast on a nine-day trip to New Zealand once, but it was my second visit. First one lasted almost three months).

I have to agree, though. Doing both in seven days would amount to bad planning. (If this is your one shot at the South Pacific, just go to New Zealand.)

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Italy bound: I'm thinking of going to Italy in early May and am wondering if there is any update on Alitalia? From several past chats, I get the impression that service is horrible and the airline was in trouble.

Thanks

Cindy Loose: The airline is in trouble. Probably be alright, but given choice of going Alitalia to Bulgaria or taking a less convenient flight on British Air, I took BA.

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Australian Honeymoon: My wife and I went to Australia for our honeymoon last year, and we were away for a total of 14 days. We managed 3 cities/areas, and it was still a lot of traveling. But if given the opportunity, I would definitely recommend it as a honeymoon destination.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Frank, Baltimore: Headed to San Juan & Vieques next week. Got any suggestions regarding car rental? Anything we should check out on the drive from San Juan to Fajardo?

Gary Lee: Frank, sorry we can't help you out on this. Can anybody out there

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Falls Church, Va.: My valentine and I would like to take a "Bourbon tasting
trip" to visit distilleries and maybe do some tastings in
Kentucky -- sort of like a Napa Valley thing. Any ideas on
where to start planning this kind of tour?

KC Summers: Just do a google search on Kentucky Bourbon Trail -- there's tons of info out there. A good place to start is Kentucky Tourism, http://www.kytourism.com.

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Iceland in June: I have a friend who wants us to take a trip to Iceland in mid-June. I'm thinking that it's probably the most expensive time of year to go, right? The airfares I'm finding are quite high. Am I missing something? I can think of so many places I'd rather go for the money this trip will cost me.

Cindy Loose: Here's the problem with flights: Only Iceland Air flies to Iceland, so they charge an arm and leg. Check out flying somewhere else Iceland Air goes, and take a stopover in Iceland. Since they compete on non-Iceland routes, you can often get a really cheap fare to somewhere in Europe and still get a bit of Iceland time. (Make sure you do Blue Lagoon.)

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Gary Lee: Much thanks for spending part of Valentine's Day with us. We had lots of good questions. We also had lots of good tips on romantic destinations. Although many of them touched me, I liked the story of the guy who proposed in Punta Cana. If you e-mail me at leeg@washpost.com and send me your mailing address, I will make sure you get the prize!

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here's a stumper for ya!;: I stumbled across what looks to be a beautiful, wonderful place to visit. apart from a few websites, there isn't a lot of personal opinions/forum information out there. it must be a well kept secret!;

I am thinking of visiting the -b]Chilcotin area-/b] of British Columbia this summer. My trip will only be about 8 days total and I want to spend a little time in both Victoria and Vancouver (this will be an overall challenge re: timing).

my interests include horseback riding, photography, flying (would like to do some sightseeing/photography, although getting some instruction in a seaplane would be fun too) and hiking.

any tips on the most scenic parts to visit? looking to take some fab pictures. any places to plunk for 4-5 days or so, and be able to hike a little, ride a little, and fly a little? I see the photos online and just drooooool.

any other resources (esp books) you could direct me to? there seems to be so little written, from what amazon tells me!;

Cindy Loose: Sorry, stumper, I meant to get back to you earlier. I don't have any personal insight into the area, but have you checked with the Canadian tourism office, both national and local. Don't have em at my fingertips, but you can google or yahoo for them. I find the Canadian tourism bureaus among the best in helping tourists. If that doesn't work, get back to us and we'll get your question up first thing to see what other clicksters can tell you.

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