A somber mood engulfed the camp that night. Still, most of us were eager to rise at 5:30 a.m. to see the sunrise strike the impressive peaks staring at us from Nepal. The surreal view looking west from our camp, into Nepal and the mountains in the distance, shook us from our weary states.
Later that day, temperaments at camp changed dramatically. The second stage, a 20-miler along a rolling path on the border between India and Nepal, ended for most runners by noon, under a warming sun (60 degrees) and clear skies. By mid-afternoon we were downright giddy, wrapped in blankets and sleeping bags, swapping humorous tales of misadventure and inspiration. No matter the challenges, we were going to have fun.
Racers arrive at the Indian village of Maneybhanyjang for the start of the grueling 2003 Himalayan ultramarathon.
(Petersen/Barder/Walker)
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Conditions for the third stage, the Mount Everest Challenge Marathon, were ideal the next morning: crisp temperatures in the 40s, a clear sky and bright sun. I had planned to run the entire marathon, but sanity prevailed; I caught a ride in the media jeep and hopped out eight miles later. A fresh frost covered the ground, creating a magical setting as I began my journey at 12,000 feet.
I ended the adventure 4 1/2 hours later, 5,400 feet lower and seemingly in a different world. Along the way, I enjoyed the most invigorating run of my life.
The quiet vastness of the environment pushed me to a calming rhythm. The tame terrain of the first few miles was a mixture of mild inclines and declines on a trail twisting through short bushes and trees in wide open spaces.
I spotted a lone yak and stopped to take its picture; it stared indifferently ahead, oblivious to me. About a mile later I came across three weathered, native trekkers heading in the opposite direction. They had just hiked the portion of the trail that awaited me, and eagerly told me -- one spoke English quite well -- of the great adventure that was to come.
Four miles later, the path changed dramatically. The rolling terrain became a sharp decline and would remain so for most of the remaining 10 miles. The trail turned treacherous as I navigated rocks and boulders and shimmied through thin ruts.
About a third of the way down, at the hill village of Siri Khola, I passed a school and interrupted my run to pay a visit. The teacher welcomed me inside the wooden three-room building, where 20 or so children greeted me with bewildered expressions and smiles.
The last stretch was the most surreal three miles I have ever run. The mostly dirt trail wound through a forest on ledges that overlooked the Rammam River hundreds of feet below, then passed through several villages. About a mile from the finish, I slowed to a walk to better savor my surroundings, then sat for a few minutes to further soak it all in. It was as spiritual a run as I have ever experienced.
A half-hour later, I basked shirtless in the warm sun in a hotel courtyard near the finish line with a dozen other runners. Our most intense challenges were over.
Later that night, we enjoyed our first evening of drunken revelry at our hotel in the Sherpa village of Rimbik. The camaraderie continued the next night after the 13-mile fourth stage, during an outdoor cultural presentation that featured villagers performing traditional Nepalese and Tibetan folk dances for the racers.
Moods were upbeat moments before the start of the final stage, a hilly 17-miler that ended back in Maneybhanyjang. "There's nothing to prove today," said Andrew Dart, 27, of Great Britain. "We just want to enjoy it and see the finish line, see the smiles on everyone's faces as we come through."
The 15th annual Himalayan 100 Mile Stage Race is scheduled for Oct. 21-28 in Maneybhanyjang, India. The cost of $1,650 includes shared accommodations at Mirik Lake Resort, mountain huts at Sandakphu and lodges at Rimbik, plus meals, transportation, aid stations, guides, porters, full race support and Bagdogra Airport transfers. Airfare from the United States to India is not included. Details: Himalayan Run & Trek, www.himalayan.com.
Dave Ungrady, a freelance writer based in Arlington, is the author of "Legends of Maryland Basketball" (Sports Publishing).
