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Ask Tom

Grand Forks, Restaurant Week Reports

Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, January 14, 2004; 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.


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The transcript follows.

Editor's Note: Washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions.

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Washington, D.C.: I have been on several dates with my girlfriend where the people next to us have a desire to talk to us; even during a romantic dinner (last weekend at Ten Penh). I guess we have a sign on our foreheads that say "Talk to us!". How do I politely tell them to leave us alone?

Tom Sietsema: I thought I was the only one who had that happen to me!

Try this:

When there's a break in the four-way conversation, smile, nod your head and say: "I hope you enjoy the rest of your meal! I really should pay attention to my girlfriend here. It's been a long week for both of us." Or some such.

Then, turn away from The Talkers, lean in to the woman across from you and carry on quietly.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom! With restaurant week in full swing here in DC, could you recommend several favorites from the list of participators? Thanks so much!
Ryan

Tom Sietsema: There are plenty of good choices. But if you haven't reserved a table yet ... well ... you might be too late to get in on the action. Just have to be honest!

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Arlington, Va.: PLEASE HELP! A few friends and I are going out to eat tonight to celebrate restaurant week. I had made reservations at Taberna del Alabardero while another had reserved a table at Fahrenheit but we are now all joining so we have to cancel one (don't worry, we will call whichever restaurant we don't choose). Which would be the better choice??

Tom Sietsema: My vote goes to the romantic Spanish restaurant.

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Georgetown, Washington, D.C.: I recently started a new job in Georgetown. What are your recommendations for good "carry-out" places for lunch?

Tom Sietsema: For openers, there's the very good Pizzeria Paradiso on M St.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom! I remember reading in the Post rave reviews about a DC restaurant that has a chocolate dessert buffet, but I can't find the article on the WP website. Can you remind me which restaurant that was or direct me to the archived article? I'm looking to take a chocoholic there on Friday to celebrate his birthday. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: That would be the Capitol View Restaurant & Lounge atop the Hyatt Regency Hotel at 400 New Jersey Ave. NW. The buffet costs $12 if you order it with dinner, two dollars more by itself.

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A Gang of Aging Guys: Tom -- about once a month, six or seven of us convene at a lunch to shoot the breeze and listen to the retired guys rub it in at us working stiffs. We usually have some raucous laughter, as the tales -- some of them whoppers -- are spun. We've moved the lunch to a new site next week -- Gordon Biersch, 9th & F Sts. I read the restaurant review in the Post's Rest. Section, but I wanted YOUR brief review, including any recommendations, and your thoughts on whether an appropriate venue was selected. Thanks; I love your writings and your online chats...

Tom Sietsema: Go for the beer and the garlic fries.

I'm not a huge GB fan, frankly. And in that neighborhood, there are many, many good places to eat. Where is your usual gathering spot?

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Silver Spring, Md.: One month to Valentine's Day. (I know it's not your favorite day to go to a restaurant.) I am looking for a nice place with entrees in the $20-25 range. Type of food is not as important as taste and atmosphere. How far in advance should I make a reservation? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: It depends on how far in advance the restaurant you want to visit accepts reservations, but -- the sooner the better on that crazy day! Cashion's Eat Place could be fun. So could Kuna, or Palena or Layalina.

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Report from Restaurant Week: Hi Tom, just wanted to tell you about our dinner at TenPenh. The best surprise was that all of the entrees on the regular menu were available as part of the Restaurant Week special with the exception of the crispy lobster. However, it was available for an additional $7. We also had our choice of three appetizers and three deserts. Places we have visited during prior Restaurant Weeks have had more limited choices, which is what we normally expect. Service was great for our large party of eight and the food was wonderful. It was nice to get first class treatment even though we were paying coach prices. We will definitely be back.

Tom Sietsema: Terrific. I'm pleased to hear that.

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Rockville, Md: I'm submitting a complaint from my Dad. I am a faithful reader of your column, and constantly say Ton loves this, or, Tom hates this place. My father will not give any credit to your review b/c you don't love Kinkead's. He had dinner there New Years Eve and eats there regularly and said it was the best meal of his life and you don't know what your talking about and therefore he won't read you. I still love Tom!;

Tom Sietsema: Ha!

Restaurants are very personal things, so I understand why your pop might think I'm wrong.

But ...

Dad should know that I've eaten at Kinkead's at least 10 times in the past two years and that I get more complaints about inferior service at the seafood restaurant than just about any other major restaurant.

Plus, if Dad reads carefully, he will see that I admire a number of dishes at Kinkead's.

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Restaurant Weak?: Have you seen the City Paper's op-ed on Restaurant Week? I couldn't agree more -- it is not any one thing that makes me less than excited, it is more the accumulation of lots of uninspired food and indifferent service. Shouldn't restaurants be trying to win over fans here? I have reservations at Tosca -- will my faith be restored? Thanks so much.

Tom Sietsema: That was a clever column. And I'm thrilled to see the CP has a new food writer.

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Fairfax, Va.: Tom, my dear: I know this is a narrow focus, but do you have any recommendations for moderately priced dining in Annandale or nearby? I don't think ethnicity is an issue, and I'll take whatever you've got if there's a selection and if you have a choice for something "less adventuresome", just in case. Some place conducive to conversation a plus. You're a jewel. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Annandale is Ground Zero for Korean cooking, and my favorite place for that is Sorak Garden. In Fairfax, try the very good Le Tire Bouchon (French bistro) or the new Bonefish Grill (seafood).

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Virginia: Tom - I'd like to take someone special out to celebrate leather weekend. Maybe someplace dark & not too filling. Any ideas?

Tom Sietsema: Folks, I do not make these questions up.

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Washington, D.C.: Are you eating at any restaurant week restaurants yourself? I'm using it as an excuse to try restaurants I might not otherwise visit (New Heights tomorrow night), but it would seem to me that as a critic, it might not be the best time to visit them.

Tom Sietsema: It's not.

I tend to order off the regular menu in places that are celebrating the promotion. (Fortunately for ME, not every business is.)

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Austin,Tx: Tom is it me or do you not like either Chef Geoff or Chef Geoff's Downtown? I think there both terrific restaurants and Geoff Tracy is a terrific guy.

Tom Sietsema: I bet he is! I've never heard a bad thing about him. And his downtown location spawned the talented Johnny Monis at the new Komi. But I have yet to have a meal at either CG location that thrills me.

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Potomac, Md.: Tom - I grabbed a last minute dinner reservation for Valentine's Day last year at Palena. It was a great meal but I was not told that the $75 tasting menu was the only option. $268 and three hours later, I resolved to not make the mistake of not asking about special menus on those special days.

Tom Sietsema: Ouch! The restaurant was remiss not to have told you about the special menu.

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Bonefish Grill?: Tom, are you aware that Bonefish Grill is a chain. I ate at the one in Jax Beach, Florida, and was not impressed. Roy's, which is also owned by the same folks and is a chain, is more upscale and definitely better than Bonefish Grill.

Tom Sietsema: Yep. Bonefish Grill comes to us by way of the good folks at (drum roll here) Outback Steakhouse.

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McLean, Va.: Desperate for your help! We were supposed to have dinner on a Saturday at 1789 for my grandfather's 80th birthday. Due to relatives flying in and out from all over, dinner needs to be changed to lunch. It seems like every restaurant fit for a special occasion is closed for lunch on Saturdays! Any ideas? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Oh dear! Let's see. Bistro Lepic is open for lunch, as are Zaytinya, Bistro Francais, Andale and Cafe Milano. That's a start (and a mixed bag of options, I'll admit).

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Fortaleza, Brazil (visiting from Silver Spring): Such a cynic, Tom. My posting of last week wasn't a prank. I really did see a dispenser for dental floss ("fio dental" in Portuguese) in a nice restaurant here (I've since seen one in one other establishment). "Fio dental" really is the slang term for the small bikinis worn by some Brazilian women. Any Brazilian restaurant, the Brazilian Embassy,or Brazil-America Cultural Institute could verify this. And I really did get a slice of ham on a sandwich advertised simply as "hamburger." If you come on down here (very warm at the moment), I'll take you to both places (the Post can pick up the tab, right?). I'll be back in the cold of DC in several weeks.

Tom Sietsema: I may very well take you up on that invitation!

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Washington DC: Good carryout in Georgetown... the Indian restaurant Aditi.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for reminding us.

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College Park, Md.: Hi, If you (or the chatters) are in need of a good laugh, check out the restaurant reviews in the Grand Forks Herald:
www.grandforks.com/mld/grandforks/entertainment/dining

My father-in-law lives in Grand Forks, and we were exposed to these reviews over Christmas. They are absolutely hilarious! The "food critic" is the widow of the late publisher of the paper, which is presumably how she manages to get so much ink. Anyway, should make all of us appreciate what we have in you, Tom. Not that I didn't already (does sucking up make this more likely to get posted?) For you Alert Readers out there: yes, this is the town with the sewage processing building named after Dave Barry.

Tom Sietsema: In her defense, I imagine the dining options in Grand Forks are, well, limited.

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Washington, D.C.: Do you have any recommendations for restaurants in Anchorage? Thank you.

Tom Sietsema: There's a place called Marx Brothers that has a good reputation for both food and wine. I have yet to get that far north to verify the praise myself.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Tom - Happy New Year! I enjoyed your review of Komi, but it started a Sunday afternoon conversation between friends about how restaurants like Komi have such eclectic menus that diners would only go there once or twice to "experiment" with new cuisine... but it's not a place you'd go to once a week for a comforting meal out. Similarly, I went to Ceiba for Restaurant Week and was incredibly impressed with their service and phenomenal dishes (decadent Pork Shank and the most amazing smashed avocado/onion side that came with the sugarcane shrimp.) Yet, Ceiba's innovative menu (in my opinion) makes it a once-in-awhile destination...not a place to go for a deliciously warm meal every week. I eat out more often than not and I'm still in search of that menu with exquisite food, but with enough "comfort food" that I can return weekly without waging war on my stomach. Dish falls in that category, I suppose, for me. Cashion's, too. For Washington diners looking for a happy medium between unique (trendy?) menus and weekly comfort food, what do you suggest??

Tom Sietsema: I'll probably take a hit for this, but Buck's Fishing & Camping * falls into that category. So does the bar menu at Palena, and some of those great nightly specials (and vegetable sides) at 15 ria in Logan Circle. I adore the straightforward cooking at Artie's, Ray's the Steaks and Little Fountain Cafe, too.

* Getting lots of complaints after my rave review, mostly regarding the service and no reservations policy. Grrr.

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Denver, Colo.: Has the Post reviewed David and Gregory's?

washingtonpost.com: Tom's review of David Greggory.

Tom Sietsema: There you go, mate.

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Suitland, Md.: Say Tom, could you tell us something about Marian Burrosm, the new New York Times reviewer? And did you consider or apply or audition or whatever for the job?

Tom Sietsema: Marian Burros is a long-time food writer for the NYT (previously with the WP) and is filling in, after the recent departure of William Grimes, until his successor is named. I can't imagine a better job than the one I now have.

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Alexandria, Va.: Tom, last week you mentioned that you heard a bar tender at Way Hot talking about you, and that he pronounced your name correctly. So that I don't offend you if you happen to overhear me at a restaurant, help me out: see-ET-si-ma? (Sorry if you've answered this before). Tom Sietsema: It is SEET-sah-ma.

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Washington, D.C.: Where is the best place in DC to take a vegetarian who has just gotten a much-needed massage?

Tom Sietsema: Heritage India in Glover Park? Zaytinya in Penn Quarter? Bacchus in Dupont Circle?

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Washington, DC: Actually, there are a few perfectly fine restaurants in Grand Forks. (I went to college there) Kim Holmes, of Sanders 1907, although I think it is called something else now. Lola's (Northern Italian) is also a good restaurant. In Marilyn Hagerty's defense, good restaurants are rare in North Dakota, and let's look at the audience. The Grand Forks region is home to just about 90,000 people - 10,000 of them are poor college students, and another several thousand live on an Air Force base. She's doing a fine job for her audience.

Let's not apply our "big city" snobbishness to a relatively small town on the Great Plains.

Thanks. rant over.

Tom Sietsema: For the record, I was passing along a link -- not endorsing it. Far be it for a boy from the soy bean fields of Minnesota to point fun of a neighbor!

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Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom: Do you ever include a vegetarian companion, or request a veggy option, while reviewing a restaurant? It seems to me that the way a chef deals with a vegetarian customer can be a good, shorthand way to distinguish good kitchens from truly great ones. Many very expensive places can muster only some variation of pasta primavera or a mix of their side dishes for the evening. Truly great places (I'm remembering specific meals at The Inn, Elysium, La Grenouille in NYC) see it as a challenge and often devise something so wonderful that other diners leave wishing they had ordered a veggy option. Should a kitchen get the coveted 4th star if they lack the flexibility and imagination to cook something amazing without meat or fish?

Tom Sietsema: I eat from the full range of a restaurant's menu, so if there are vegetarian options available, chances are, I'll try them. All the restaurants that I consider to be worthy of four stars can do amazing things without meat or fish.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom: In last week's chat, someone asked if you'd been to DeCarlo's in Spring Valley yet, to which you responded yes, and "time stood still." Can you elaborate? I'm not sure what you meant by that. I would like to try DeCarlo's but have never seen it reviewed, so I would appreciate your opinion. Thank you, and keep up the good work. I look forward to these chats every week.

Tom Sietsema: DeCarlo's (on Yuma St. NW) is an old-fashioned Italian place. It attracts an older clientele and serves some nice cooking -- cream sauced spinach pasta comes to mind, along with mussels in tomato sauce and veal.

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re: Grand Forks reviews: If I lived in Grand Forks, I'd shoot myself.

Tom Sietsema: Or at least dine at home.

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Anchorage recommendations!;: I lived in Anchorage for a year. I'd highly recommend the Moose's Tooth for great pizza, good beer, delicious spinach salad, and a terrific Anchorage vibe. Also, stop by New Sagaya -- a gourmet grocery store (Anchorage's Dean and Deluca) for sandwiches to take on a hike. Snow City Cafe on 4th Avenue has good breakfast, and Side Street Espresso is a great place for a cup of coffee and a bowl of soup (and George, the proprietor, is terrific.). Glacier Brewhouse, also downtown, is good for dinner - and get the bread pudding with whiskey sauce for dessert. Have an amazing trip!;

Tom Sietsema: You chatters are an amazing resource. I love the name: Moose's Tooth!

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Da's response: He's eaten there 10 times in the past 10 years and has never had bad service. Kinkead's getting the same number os tars as Il Pizzico is "insanity"

Tom Sietsema: I bet your dad is a Famous Face then. Or maybe Dad and I should simply agree to disagree.

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Washington, DC: Please answer my question about DeCarlo's!; Thanks in advance.

Tom Sietsema: I did! I did!

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Rockville, Md.: Hi Tom. I am in a little bind. Last week after your chat I asked another couple to go to dinner tonight at a nice place since it is restaurant week. Since they could not decide where to go, I gave them the opentable.com link you gave out last week and told them to choose a place and make the reservation, my wife and I would be open to anything. Well, my friend did not make the reservation, so we have no plans for the evening. I was hoping that you may suggest a place on the restaurant week list where I still may be able to get reservations this week. Location and cuisine are open, but I would like a place on the quiet side. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Call Corduroy -- and hope the contemporary American retreat has a table for the four of you. Of course, there's no guarantee that it will be hushed this week, but it typically is one of the less noisy dining rooms around.

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Rosslyn, Va.: I just want you to know that after reading your review of Tutto Bene we decided to try it for dinner last week. We loved it! Some of the best marinara sauce I've ever had in DC. Thanks for the good work Tom!

Tom Sietsema: Just promise me you'll give the saltenas a chance some weekend lunch.

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Washington, DC: What is up with the Grand Forks bashing today? Come on people, get over it. Fine, consider yourself lucky you don't live there. But cut the melodrama - shooting yourself? A whole lot of people CHOOSE to live there and have very happy and fulfilled lives. It's a perfectly charming little town, and don't forget, it's coming back from a devastating flood in 1997.

Tom Sietsema: I see dozens of us hanging our heads in shame for being so mean to Grand Forks

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Bethesda, Md: Hi, Tom--I have a reservation at Zola tonight. You gave it 3 stars, but the online reader complaints about service and food (all very specific, not just vague dissatisfaction) have me worried. I'm taking out a high-maintenance friend for her birthday; she has complaints even when things are fine. Should I cancel?

Tom Sietsema: Look at it this way:

Like me or not, you know my taste, and my name goes on my work. Reader reviews are posted by people who don't have to share their names, affiliations or resumes. In other words, I'd go to Yanyu if I were you.

Keep in mind, Restaurant Week is a bit like Valentine's Day, Mother's Day and New Year's Eve spread across seven days. I wouldn't necessarily judge a restaurant on a meal during one of these events.

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Washington, D.C.: Ceiba or Cafe Atlantico?

Tom Sietsema: Depends on what you're looking for.

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Cubeland, Washington, D.C.: Tom, we've had an explosion of fine dining focused on the cuisine of Latin America. We have Ceiba, Andale, Cafe Atlantico and others. How do these restaurants compare with Topolobampo (sp?) and Frontera Grill in Chicago?

Tom Sietsema: Well, from what I hear from my Windy City contacts, those two ground-breaking Mexican restaurants are coasting these days. I was sorry to hear that.

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Twin Cities, MN: Displaced DC native here, now living in the currently frozen midwest. While I enjoy Minneapolis, I miss ?my' town and read your columns and discussions to keep in touch. I'm traveling back to DC with some colleagues for work and we have some spare time after our flight arrives. I was planning on taking them to my favorite museum (Natural History) and out for lunch somewhere in the mall/downtown area. Can you recommend a nice comfy place for lunch in that general vicinity? My past haunts tended toward the Georgetown/Cleveland Park/Adams Morgan areas, thus I'm not that familiar with the touristy parts of town and fear stumbling into a crappy touristy restaurant. We're open to all cuisines and reasonable prices.

Also, don't you hail from the Twin Cities? If so, I'm curious, what are some of your favorite restaurants in this area? I'm still in mourning over the closure of Aquavit, though there are many great restaurants here.

Tom Sietsema: You're in luck. Within walking distance of the Mall are all sorts of good places to eat. Consider Cafe Atlantico, Jaleo, Zaytinya, Zola or the just-opened Ginger Cove on 8th St. NW. I'm betting that a visit to any of them will make you homesick.

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Washington, D.C.: TS: I signed up for 2 at Yanyu for Restaurant Week. Reading the WP reader reviews, I get mixed reviews -- but I know you like it. Why do you think they dislike Yanyu -- should I change?

Tom Sietsema: Oops. My Yanyu response (above) was supposed to go here. Sorry!

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Getting Hitched in the District: Hi Tom, I am getting married in May. I'm the groom, and in charge with the dinner reception the day before (my parents are way out in San Diego). What do you suggest as good restaurants in DC and beyond that can accommodate 50+ people for such an event? We want it to be casual, but not so much Dave and Busters-esque. I was thinking Chadwicks. Any others? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema:
Not sure what your budget, location or food preferences are, but the following offer private dining: Colvin Run Tavern, DC Coast, Caucus Room, Firefly, 88, Local 16, Melrose, Olives, Les Halles, Old Glory BBQ and Oval Room.

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Fairfax, Va.: Tom - help me save my marriage! I have enjoyed participating in Restaurant Week, but prefer to make my choices count - going somewhere that there is plenty of selection as well as places I may not normally be able to afford. I've done some research in your book and through egullet, and would really like to try Ristorante Tosca. Of course, the only reservation I could get for this Friday was 10 pm. My husband is balking at eating that late. Would you say that it's worth eating that late to experience this restaurant? Your advice carries a lot of weight in this household!

Tom Sietsema: Like your mate, I HATE to dine late. Honestly, I think you'd have more fun dining at Tosca after Restaurant Week. It's really a zoo out there!

That wraps up today's discussion. Stay warm til next Wednesday -- and NO MORE Grand Forks bashing, you here?

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Tom Sietsema: hear?

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