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Aruba Rocks: Desert Island

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We chose the 800-room La Cabana (1-800-835-7193, www.lacabana.com) on Eagle Beach because it was full of family-friendly amenities (three pools, big beach, in-suite kitchens, ATM) and was quite reasonable at $165 per night in early high season (the week before Christmas). The food was expensive and unremarkable but easily available. Our biggest complaint was the constant hassling by time-share shills.

Based on my brief inspections of other properties, I'd say if money is no object, go for the Radisson (1-800-333-3333), which had just been reopened and upgraded; the Marriott (1-800-223-6388); or the Hyatt (1-800-233-1234). All have big pools with fancy landscaping, casinos and nice spots on Palm Beach. At the value end, consider Bucuti Beach (Eagle Beach, 1-800-223-1108, www.bucuti.com; local feeling, small pool) or the Holiday Inn (Palm Beach, 1-800-HOLIDAY; recently refurbished but still dowdy).

WHAT TO DO:

Rent a jeep. You can save money and rent a car, but you won't be able to ply many roads in the interior and on the north coast. On the island, jeeps will cost $55 to $70 per day or $290 to $375 per week; many have three-day specials for around $150. If you can do better by arranging your rental beforehand, do it.

Go horseback riding. You can tour the countryside and ride along the beach. Check out Rancho Del Campo (telephone 011-2978-50290) or Rancho El Paso (telephone 011-2978-73310).

Windsurf or snorkel. The island's persistent winds make for great windsurfing; visit the Fisherman's Huts area on Palm Beach, where shallow water and a roped-off zone create ideal conditions for beginners (you'll pay $40 to $60 for equipment and/or a lesson). Calm, shallow Baby Beach, at the east end of the island, is a nice spot to learn to snorkel, but there's not much to see. Most water-sports operators run boats to offshore reefs.

WHERE TO EAT: Everything's expensive. Even at snack stands, hot dogs go for $3.50. You can stretch your meal money with trips to grocery stores (along the strip connecting Oranjestad and the resorts) or to Pizza Hut and Wendy's (expensive by U.S. standards but cheap by Aruba rates). Also, in the island's interior you can find local restaurants--particularly Chinese and Italian--that cater to locals for less than what the tourists pay near the resorts.

A few distinctive restaurants:

* Driftwood (telephone 011-2978-32515). Talk about catch of the day: The owner goes out every day and serves his special catch in the evening.

* Boonoonoonoos (telephone 011-2978-31888). Small, cheerful French Caribbean-themed place with a superb chef. We had wonderful curried goat and a chicken casserole served in a hollowed Gouda cheese.

* Cuba's Cookin' (telephone 011-2978-80627). New, tony Cuban-style restaurant with tasty chicken soup, pork and chicken specialties.

* El Gaucho (telephone 011-2978-23677). A genuine Argentine beef house with extraordinary, shipped-in-daily-from-South-America steaks.

* Pirate's Nest (telephone 011-2978-31100). Middling food but romantic, campy beached-pirate-ship environment facing Eagle Beach. You have to go once.

* Fisherman's Hut. On Palm Beach, it's a little shack with a few tables serving fresh catch, usually around $6. Grab a beer and it's one of the island's great dining values.

INFORMATION: Aruba Tourism Authority, 1-800-862-7822, www.aruba.com.

--Craig Stoltz


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