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Head Out on the Highway
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Day 1
Take I-95 south through Virginia and North Carolina. Stop in Rocky Mount to sample some North Carolina barbecue – the city, right off I-95, claims more than 60 barbecue joints, including Gardner's Barbeque Restaurant (1331 N. Wesleyan Blvd., 252-446-2983), Brown's Chicken & Barbecue (1200 E. Highland Ave., 252-442-7456) and Woody's Bar-B-Que (125 S. Winstead Ave., 252-443-3799).
MILE 368: Just 10 miles past the South Carolina border, take Exit 181 for Latta, S.C., and spend the night at Abingdon Manor Inn (307 Church St., 888-752-5090, www.abingdonmanor.com), a grand five-room country inn five miles east of I-95. Innkeepers Michael and Patty Griffey greet weary travelers with a cocktail and then offer a four-course gourmet dinner ($35 per person, guests only) that could include such house specialties as rack of lamb, coq au vin or yellowfin tuna. A gourmet breakfast is included in the rate, but the Griffeys are happy to prepare brown-bag breakfasts for travelers anxious to get back on the road. Rates start at $105.
Day 2
From Abingdon Manor, Route 501 is just a block away. Follow it to Route 17 east (take the bypass around Myrtle Beach), passing through such charming Low Country towns as Murrells Inlet, Litchfield Beach and Georgetown, and admiring the region's salt marsh inlets and coastal towns.
MILE 431: Just a few miles south of Murrells Inlet is Brookgreen Gardens (U.S. Highway 17, south of Murrells Inlet, 800-849-1931, www.brookgreen.com), America's largest sculpture garden. The preserve, which stretches from the South Carolina rice fields to the Atlantic coast, is centered on a 300-acre sculpture garden with more than 500 works from some of the country's best-known artists, including Frederic Remington, Carl Milles and Anna Hyatt Huntington. The sculptures are set in a variety of gardens that feature dogwoods, magnolias and palmetto trees along with seasonal blooms (in winter, poinsettias and spruce). At Keepsakes, the on-site shop, you can find everything from sculptures to handmade jewelry. And the cafe there is a great lunch stop. admission is $8.50.
Then, head to Huntington Beach State Park (16148 Ocean Highway Murrells Inlet, 843-237-4440), just across Highway 17 from the gardens. Huntington offers a pristine 3-mile stretch of Atlantic Ocean beach, plus a boardwalk that leads you through its salt marshes. There are nature trails (easy half-mile and two-mile loops for the time-impaired) and a freshwater lagoon; Huntington is considered one of the best bird-watching spots on the East Coast. Admission: $4.
Follow Route 17 into Charleston, S.C., and explore.
Looking for holiday-centric activities? Charleston gets in the mood with its 11th annual Holiday Festival of Lights (James Island, Nov. 10-Jan. 1). The event, a three-mile driving tour about 10 minutes from the city center, features more than 100 light displays (using some 600,000 lights) that include shapes like an octopus and toyland. Info: 843-762-2172, www.ccprc.com.
At the elegant Charleston Place Hotel (205 Meeting St., 843-722-4900), a Christmas tree festival includes 25 spruces, decorated by local artists, whose themes will vary from aromatherapy to origami. More traditionally, the hotel also trims a 20-foot tree, and an Orient Express model train will run on tracks circling the tree.
For unique holiday gifts, check out Charleston's boutiques. King Street is the main retail drag, with a combination of upscale chain stores and specialized shops; interesting boutiques are also located on nearby streets in this very walkable city. Highlights include Christian Michi (220 King St., 843-723-0575), which sells everything from Harari floral silk ensembles to Mariposa pastel china; Gates of Charleston (73 Broad St., 843-958-0040), for garden and household items; Homage (287 E. Bay St., 843-723-3535), for feng shui accouterments; and the City Market (40 N. Market St.) for sweetgrass baskets, one of the oldest art forms of African origin and made on the spot.
Overnight in Charleston and indulge – it's Christmas Eve, why not? – with a night at the John Rutledge House Inn (116 Broad St., 800-476-9741). Named after John Rutledge, a signer of the U.S. Constitution, the antebellum home is in the heart of the historic district. Amenities include afternoon tea and sherry, continental breakfast, evening turn-down service and that most precious of Charleston amenities, on-site parking. A 24-hour concierge can point you to restaurants that are open during the holiday season. Rates start at $185 per night.
Day 3
After a leisurely breakfast at the inn, take Route 17 south to I-95, through Georgia – and eventually into Florida. Stop for lunch in St. Marys, on the border, about 4 hours south of Charleston. Best known as the launching point for Cumberland Island National Seashore, it's a charming coastal village in its own right. To get there, take Exit 3, GA-40, to St. Marys. Follow signs to the waterfront. Lunch at the Riverside Cafe (106 W. St. Marys St., 912-882-3466), then wander around the historic district.
Pass around Jacksonville, about 85 miles north of Ormond Beach, and take Exit 95, which leads to SR-16, at St. Augustine Beach; follow SR-16 east for five miles until it connects with A1A, which leads right to Ormond Beach.
WASHINGTON TO ATLANTA, VIA ASHEVILLE, N.C.
Caroline Eicke is driving solo from the Washington area to Atlanta to spend the holidays with her daughter and grandchild. She's budgeted four days for the trip and wants to make several stops along the way, including Asheville, N.C., to visit the historic Biltmore Estate. Coming back, she says she'll do a one-day marathon drive.PERSONAL PREFERENCES: Eicke favors inexpensive B&Bs (up to $70 a night; private bathrooms a must) and local restaurants with anything but chain food. Other preferences: "gorgeous scenery" and local handicrafts.
COMPLICATIONS: Eicke's under-$70-a-night B&B parameters were tough, particularly in scenic destinations. We suggested a $100 ceiling, and she agreed. Her requirement for beautiful scenery was difficult, too, since winter is not peak nature time. We directed her to scenic roads where possible, but primarily concentrated on indoor diversions.
THE DRIVE: 750 miles, 12-plus hours, spread over four days. Day 1, Washington to Charlottesville, will take about 2¼ hours (120 miles) On Day 2, Eicke heads to Asheville, a 6½-hour journey that covers about 370 miles. She spends two nights in Asheville. Day 4, she heads south to Atlanta for a relatively short, 3½-hour ride – about 210 miles – via interstate highways. Her return, a straight shot from Atlanta to D.C., is a 10½-hour drive covering 650 miles.
THE ITINERARY
Day 1
Take the Beltway to Route I-66 west; exit at Route 29 south to Charlottesville.
MILE 170: In Charlottesville, start by visiting Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's palatial home (804-984-9822, www.monticello.org). Take Route 29 to I-64, then Exit 121 (if traveling westbound) or 121-A (eastbound) to Route 20 south. Follow signs to the Monticello Visitors Center. The winter tour, "The Revolution of 1800: Jefferson, Politics and Presidency" begins Dec. 1. Admission is $11.
Eicke expressed an interest in quality crafts, and downtown Charlottesville has lots of nifty antiques stores, craft shops and boutiques. Check out Quilts Unlimited for handicrafts (118 W. Main St., 804-979-0025); Sun Bow Trading Company for nomadic textiles (108 Fourth St. NE, Downtown Mall, 804-293-8821); and Jordan, a shop with elegant accessories (506 E. Main St., 804-295-0030).
Overnight in downtown Charlottesville at the 1817 Historic Bed and Breakfast (1211 W. Main St., 800-730-7443), which has an on-site antiques store. The B&B was built by James Dinsmore, Thomas Jefferson's master craftsman. Rates from $89 per night.
Day 2
Take Route 29 south from Charlottesville to Greensboro, N.C., where it intersects with I-40. Follow I-40 south into Asheville.
MILE 520: The famed 255-room Biltmore Estate (1 Lodge St., 800-543-2961, www.biltmore.com), with its original collection of 50,000 furnishings, artwork and antiques, and gardens designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, is Eicke's main reason for visiting Asheville. And what great timing she has! The Biltmore Estate embraces the holidays with fervor. The daytime holiday celebration (Nov. 7-Jan. 2) includes decorated trees, fresh wreaths and evergreen valances as well as musical performances. On Candlelight Christmas Evenings (Nov. 7-Jan. 1), the mansion glows and music from the Banquet Hall's 1916 Skinner pipe organ alternates with performances by choirs and ensembles. Tickets for the daytime celebrations are $34; there are no advance reservations. For the Candlelight Christmas Evenings, tickets are $36 (Sunday-Thursday) and $39 (Friday-Saturday); reservations are essential. At other times of the year, daytime entrance fees are $32; hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Dinner? That's an easy one: Several Biltmore Estate restaurants are offering special holiday menus; the Stable Cafe and Deerpark Restaurant are open to ticket-holders only. The cost for dining is additional and reservations are required.
Spend the night at the eight-room Flint Street Inns (116 Flint St., 800-234-8172, www.flintstreetinns.com), which not only fit Eicke's moderate budget but are located in Asheville's historic Montford neighborhood. Rates are $75 for singles, $110 for doubles.
Day 3
Continue exploring Asheville. The town is an epicenter for fine arts and crafts. Among the musts are Biltmore Village, just outside the estate entrance, and downtown Asheville, where craft, clothing and antiques shops abound within easy walking distance. A little bit out of the way – but worth the 15-minute drive – is the Grovewood Gallery (111 Grovewood Rd., 828-253-7651), which showcases fine American arts and crafts.
Dine this evening at one of Asheville's casual downtown cafes.
Day 4
From Asheville, take I-40 west to I-26 southeast; at Spartanburg, S.C., pick up I-85 to Atlanta, where Eicke will arrive in time for lunch with her family.
WASHINGTON TO BOSTON
Cindy and Pat Palmisani, along with daughter Alisha, 13, and son Clay, 12, are heading from the Washington area to Pat's home town of Boston for the holidays.THE DRIVE: The Palmisanis' route to Boston will cover about 460 miles, a 7½-hour drive if they went straight through. We divided the trip into two days. They spend more time on the road on Day 1, when they cover 311 miles in approximately six hours. Day 2 is an easy 150 miles in about 2½ hours, depending on Boston traffic.
PERSONAL PREFERENCES: "While we prefer bed-and-breakfast inns," Cindy Palmisani says, "when traveling as a family we prefer suite-like places that have activities for the kids." They like "awesome breakfasts," anything seafood and are big fans of putt-putt golf. Mom likes to shop.
THE ITINERARY
Day 1
Take I-95 through Baltimore. Just before the Delaware Memorial Bridge, take Exit 1A and follow the signs to Mike's Famous Roadside (2160 New Castle Ave., Route 9, New Castle, Del., 800-FAMOUS-HD, www.mikesfamous.com). Mike's, somewhat of a Harley-Davidson theme park, raises the level of roadside cuisine from rest-stop burgers to Caesar salads, nachos, buffalo wings and chili. After lunch, go next door to the Harley dealership and Museum of the American Road, where you can ogle bikes, watch work in progress and drop some cash on motorcycle clothing and accessories.
Get back on I-95 and follow signs to the New Jersey Turnpike. At the end of the turnpike, merge onto I-95. Exit 72 leads you to 9W, which turns into the Palisades Parkway; follow that north to the New York State Thruway (I-87/287). Cross the Tappan Zee Bridge to 684 northeast, then to I-84. Pass through Danbury, Conn., to your overnight stop in Southbury, Conn. – about a 20-minute distance.
MILE 312: Overnight at the Heritage (522 Heritage Rd., Southbury, Conn., 800-932-3466), a family-friendly resort that offers a $129 "bed-and-breakfast" package; kids stay free (breakfast is free for the parents but kids have to pay; $6.95 apiece for a full breakfast buffet). There's an indoor pool, racquetball, fitness center, basketball court, game room, restaurant and pub.
Day 2
From Southbury, Boston is just a 2½-hour drive – which gives the Palmisanis time for sightseeing. We routed them through historic Hartford (40 minutes north of Southbury), which has numerous attractions, such as the Science Center of Connecticut (Trout Brook Drive, 860-231-2824, www.sciencecenterct.org) in West Hartford. The hot attraction is Kid Power, a laser show where the music of 98 Degrees, 'N Sync and the Backstreet Boys is synchronized with laser light. Other exhibits include Lego Invention Adventure, with Lego robots, and an animal sanctuary with more than 35 species, ranging from blue-tongued skinks to mountain lions. The center, off I-84's Exit 43, charges $6 for adults (laser show another $3) and $5 for kids (laser show is $2).
An alternative attraction is the Mark Twain House (351 Farmington Ave., 860-247-0998), which from Nov. 24 to Dec. 23 is festooned with holiday decorations in the style of the Twain (Samuel Clemens) family. You can tour the 19-room mansion, where Twain lived and wrote (he penned "The Adventures of Tom Sawyer" and "Adventures of Huckleberry Finn" here) for 17 years in the late 19th century. Take Exit 46 off of I-84 and follow signs to the museum. Admission: $9 for adults, $7 for ages 13 to 18, $5 for 6 to 12.
For lunch, walk three blocks to the Hog River Grill (267 Farmington Ave., 860-524-8626), which serves Cajun fare as well as all-American burgers and sandwiches in an old-timey diner setting.
MILE 350: Since Cindy likes to shop, head for West Hartford (take Exit 43, Park Road/West Hartford, and follow the signs), home to some unusual stores. Check out Japanalia (990 Farmington Ave., 860-523-7722), where Dan and Eiko Blow design fashions that blend Japanese influences with contemporary style, and Agneta's Books & Things (998 Farmington Ave., 860-233-0768), with everything from self-help books and incense to aromatherapy oils and artwork.
Get back on I-84 north. At I-90, just beyond Sturbridge, Mass., head east toward Boston. I-90 goes directly into Boston.
INFORMATION
Delaware: Delaware Tourism Office, 800-441-8846, www.visitdelaware.net.Connecticut: Connecticut Office of Tourism, 800-282-6863, www.ctbound.org.
Florida: Florida Division of Tourism, 888-735-2872, www.flausa.com
Georgia: Georgia Tourism, 800-847-4842, www.georgia.org
Maryland: Maryland Office of Tourism Development, 800-634-7386,www.mdisfun.org.
Massachusetts: Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism, 800-447-6277,www.massvacation.com
New Jersey: New Jersey Travel and Tourism, 800-847-4865, www.visitnj.com.
New York: New York State Division of Tourism, 800-225-5697, www.iloveny.state.ny.us.
Rhode Island: Rhode Island Office of Travel, Tourism and Film Production,800-556-2484, www.visitrhodeisland.com
South Carolina: South Carolina Department of Tourism, 800-346-3634, www.travelsc.com


