Why was our French wedding so much fun? We believe it is because it embodied all the things the French in Saignon value – romance, flirtation, a spirit of daring. The rhythm of life there is different. There is a time for work, but equally important is the time set aside for enjoyment. As Jean-Claude, Marcia's co-proprietor, put it, "Everything can be accomplished with a smile and a pastis."
My view of marriage has not changed. The traditional concept is one I still cannot grasp. But of one thing I am now completely certain. It is a concept that is open to interpretation. We had the unforgettable good fortune of involving another culture in ours.
And whatever marriage may mean, to us it means the best time we ever had.
Kathy Legg is the art director of the Travel section.
DETAILS: Provence
GETTING THERE: We flew Delta from Reagan National to Nice/Cote D'Azur via New York for about $813 round trip for travel in May (we booked on Expedia in January). British Airways, United and Air France also fly there, with connections in London or Paris, for about the same rate. Saignon is about 2½ hours from Nice by car, on the west face of the Luberon Mountains.
WHERE TO STAY: We stayed with our friend, Marcia Mitchell, who runs Maison des Ramparts (Place de L'Horloge), a handful of beautifully rustic studio apartments and rooms in a renovated 14th-century building that was once part of the ramparts of the village. Rates run from $80 to $100 per night, including breakfast. The maison also offers week-long packages May to October (except August), with customized itineraries and guided excursions focusing on art, painting, cuisine, antiquity and outdoor activity; rates from $1,800 double. Info: telephone 011-33-4-90-74-08-55, www.personalprovence.com.
Other lodging options in and around Saignon include:
• La Bastide du Jas (telephone 011-33-4-90-74-67-99) is a gracious chambre d'hotes with nine rooms with baths, lap-size swimming pool, small restaurant and lovely grounds. Rates: $60 to $75 per night, plus about $5 for breakfast. You can also book a room through Seattle-based VillaNet (800-964-1891, www.rentavilla.com).
• La Pyramide (telephone 011-33-4-90-04-70-00; rates from $50) is an intimate chambre d'hotes with five rooms with private bath and breakfast. A small swimming pool is available for guests. La Pyramide also offers one gite (self-catering accommodation) that sleeps four for about $500 a week.
• Auberge du Presbytere (Place de la Fontaine, telephone 011-33-4-90-74-11-50; rates $50-$95) is a venerable village inn that features 10 rooms with private baths and a rustic restaurant and bar. Breakfast costs $7 per person.
• Le Demon du Midi (telephone 011-33-6-84-75-01-46; about $710 a week) rents its charmingly decorated town house, complete with two bedrooms, bath, living room, kitchen and private garden. The property is in La Roque d'Antheron, which hosts a popular international music festival each summer.
WHERE TO EAT: The Auberge du Presbytere, by the fountain in the heart of Saignon, offers savory regional cuisine in a comfortable rustic setting. Four-course meals average $30. Bread, beverages, snacks and wonderfully fresh sandwiches and salads are available at Chez Christine Salon de The, just down the street from the fountain. In Apt, enjoy the chef's mother's recipes at Bistro de France; consistently good entrees run from $13. The beautiful La Bastide de Lilou, just outside of Apt, serves sumptuous six-course meals with wine (about $90) in a mansion with gorgeous interiors and vineyards.
