Adults at Play at Hedonism

Nothing defines Hedonism so much as its reputation for open, casual sex. Officially, the resort prohibits public sexual activity. But the rules against it are more like speed limits than flat restrictions. "We're not going to let them have sex in the dining room," says General Manager Joseph Smith, a youthful Jamaican with an MBA who seems more entertained than offended by the frolics of his guests. "But at 2 a.m. in some isolated corner, living out their tropical fantasy, we're more lenient."

Two a.m.? It was more like tea time when I first got an eyeful. And the scene I saw at midnight around the hot tub would have made Caligula blush: three separate couples cavorting on lounge chairs with an audience attending.

But both Smith and Hedo regulars say the level of free sex is nothing close to the excesses implied by the resort's reputation. Further, they insist that most sexual contact -- at least in public -- is between spouses and partners. Authentic, partner-swapping swingers do frequent Hedo (and if someone sidles up to you in the pool and asks "Do you play?" they're not talking about cribbage). But they come mainly in organized groups during specific weeks in January, July and October. Otherwise, in spite of the nudity and the sexually charged tropical atmosphere, the normal rules of dating and mating apply, which means most of the single men who arrive in the hope of easy conquests leave disappointed.

"Look, women are princesses here and they can get whatever they want," says Santilli. "And I have seen men, even homely men, have incredible adventures. But that's not the rule. It's really not about sex. You make lifelong friends here. Being naked on the beach at Hedonism makes you a nicer person."

For the resort's part, owners are happy to continue capitalizing on Hedo's wicked, lucrative reputation. In fact, they're planning a $5 million upgrade that will include a rock-climbing wall, an artificial ice-skating rink and -- here's the Hedo touch -- a water slidethrough the new disco, which will have a roof made up of four glass-bottom hot tubs.

Officially, bathing suits will be required in those tubs, but Smith knows what to expect. "I'm quite sure our guests will bend that rule," he says with a delighted grin. He would have made a rotten junior high school principal.

"We're not the Holiday Inn here, you know."

Hedonism II is in Negril, Jamaica, about a two-hour bumpy drive from the Montego Bay airport (a small-plane shuttle that makes the one-way trip in 15 minutes is available for about $60 a person). Rates for the summer begin at $245 a night per person, which includes all food and drinks, including unlimited alcohol. Fall rates drop to $215 a night in early September. Info: 877-467-8737, www.superclubs.com/brand_hedonism.

Update: Jamaica

If you’re planning to visit Hedonism II or any other part of Jamaica in coming weeks, be aware that political street violence has taken an upswing as the country braces for general elections. Around Kingston, opposition party supporters have set up illegal roadblocks and battled with police and army forces, according to a U.S. State Department announcement last week. The State Department advises U.S. citizens in Jamaica to exercise caution in Kingston and avoid large gatherings. Some roadblocks were reported around the tourist centers of Montego Bay and Ocho Rios.

Joseph Smith, Hedonism II’s general manager, said in a phone call that no incidents have occurred near the resort. “It’s had no effect whatsoever around Negril,” Smith said. “It’s very much business as usual here.”