It Takes a Villa

The next day we're wowed by the countryside as we take a two-hour drive to Lagos, in the Algarve region. To get a mental picture, imagine someone stringing together sections of vineyards, groves and fields from Southern France, Italy, England and Wales. Then add occasional views of whitewashed towns with a slightly Arabic feel -- a reminder of the Moorish influence here.

Unfortunately, the southern coast along the beaches has been visited by developers. But the beaches, reached by long stone stairways down huge cliffs, are dramatic. We're grateful to the developer who built Restaurante Mirante high atop a cliff overlooking the beach called Praia D. Ana.

The most striking collision of cliff and beach occurs at nearby Sagres, and a mile or so down the road at Cabo Sao Vincent.

People once thought that this southwesternmost tip of Europe was the end of the world. But at this very spot, Prince Henry the Navigator set up a school to explore the world he knew existed over the horizon.

Americans are most familiar with the exploits of Columbus, for obvious reasons. But setting off from the sea beneath these giant cliffs, Portuguese navigators ventured farther and more successfully than sailors from any other nation, finding routes to India, China and Africa.

This section of coastline, it's worth noting, has not been developed at all. You'll find old forts, a lighthouse and a few peddlers selling thick wool sweaters for about $40 each. Fishermen wearing such sweaters cast their lines from clifftops that are more than 100 feet high. We watch, hoping they don't catch a fish big enough to pull them off the edge.

On the drive back to Vila Nova, I feel very grateful that we are not hunting for new lodgings and unpacking suitcases. In fact, I feel as if I am going home.

Idalia comes upstairs that evening to apologize that the snacks she left at tea time were undoubtedly cold by the time of our return. No problem, I tell her. I mention that the egg custards in a pastry shell are my favorites.

"They are so much better warm," she protests. "I'll make some fresh for breakfast." From that day forward, every morning, noon and night, I'm offered the warm little pies.

During our remaining time in Vila Nova, we explored the nooks and crannies. Antonio arranged one day for his cousin -- imagine Anthony Quinn in a fisherman's cap -- to take us out in a boat. Otherwise, we were content to catch the rhythm of the small town, where elderly women venture out each morning with string bags to buy bread just out of the bakery oven.

When I spend just a day or so in a town, I feel some pressure to make sure I've tried the best restaurants, budget and otherwise. With days and meals to spare, we tried Vila Nova's one Chinese restaurant. The food at Dragao Dourado was just okay, but the menu was terrific. We had much fun with the English translation menu, with entrees like "Some kind of shimp from pool pond" and "Grilled Happy Family."

Several times we'd exchanged polite greetings with a Portuguese couple staying at our B&B. Finally, we worked up the nerve to invite them for gelato. They helped us plan our route for the following day to the ancient walled city of Evora, about 2 1/2 hours away.