High Falutin'

The next day we hiked off some of those calories in another section of the Pedlar District, this time in the Priest Wilderness area. It's Virginia's newest federally protected wilderness area, and most deservedly so, as we soon discovered.

In Shenandoah Park, the most popular waterfalls are in White Oak Canyon, where the biggest drops 86 feet. Compare that with the 500-foot descent of the grand cataract of Crabtree Falls. Often called the highest waterfall east of the Mississippi, Crabtree's many cascades tumble 1,080 feet over a horizontal distance of just 1,800 feet, practically forming one continuous waterfall. A hiker-friendly trail with steps, rails and viewing spots creeps along the water's edge.

The trail that climbs up alongside Crabtree Falls was our only one without the region's characteristic solitude. We shared the 1.7-mile path with families and church groups, since this fabled waterfall is a mecca for weekend outings.

At the top of the falls is a panoramic picnic rock, the turnaround point for virtually everyone, so we had the mountain laurel groves to ourselves as we continued on for another mile to the Appalachian Trail.

At the junction with the AT we turned north for about a mile and another 700 feet of elevation gain to the rocky pinnacle atop our fourth 4,000-footer -- the Priest. Again we lingered, savoring yet another uncommon view and mentally giving thanks to Congress for recently voting to protect this peak and some surrounding 6,500 acres with official wilderness-area designation. That will save not only the trees but also the peace-prohibiting "civilized" noisemakers such as ATVs and snowmobiles.

Improbably, for all but the last of these hikes, we had the gain without the pain. They were relatively easy because the trails begin from a high elevation, eliminating those long grinding hauls up the slopes that are the typical price you pay for spectacular views. And with the exception of the Crabtree Falls trail, we found a solitude to match the rugged character of these mountains. And that's another plus this area offers.

Shenandoah's national park label draws crowds from far reaches of the country. People expect less from the humbler national forests, so it never occurs to your average Winnebagite to head there. The Pedlar's trails are rougher, the signage not as tourist-friendly, and the facilities not nearly as plush as those in national parks -- just a few more reasons that this bit of Appalachia is better.

ESCAPE KEYS

GETTING THERE: The Mount Pleasant trailhead is about 3 1/2 hours from the Beltway. Take I-66 to U.S. 29 south to U.S. 60 west. From 60, turn right on Virginia Route 634, then right on Route 755, which becomes Forest Road 48. Pass the Appalachian Trail junction parking, turn right in less than half a mile on Forest Road 51, another mile to trailhead parking. For the Crabtree Falls area, take Virginia Route 56 west from U.S. 29, to Route 826 to the Crabtree Meadows parking area. The upper trailhead leads to the falls; the Appalachian Trail leads to the Priest Wilderness Area.

STAYING: National forests are less restrictive than national parks, so you can pitch your tent just off a forest road or in woods off a trail. For a Victorian roof over your head, in Nellysford there's the Meander Inn (804-361-1121, www.meanderinn.com) on a farm with horses, with rates starting at $105; and the Mark Addy (800-278-2154, www.mark-addy.com), from $100.

EATING: In Nellysford: Bistro 151 has award-winning pizzas; the Blue Ridge Pig serves barbecue.

INFO: Nelson County, 800-282-8223, www.nelsoncounty. The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club in Vienna(703-242-0315, www.patc.net) sells a guide to the Pedlar District, with hiking and driving directions, and topography maps (Map 13).