Romania

Peter Finn is The Post's Berlin bureau chief, covering Central and Eastern Europe.

Details: Romania

GETTING THERE: There are no direct flights from Washington to Bucharest. Most major carriers, including Air France, KLM and United, offer connecting flights through European cities,such as London and Vienna, with round-trip fares starting atthe sale price of $888. Tarom Romanian Airlines flies nonstop twice a week from New York to Bucharest for $865 round trip. There is also international train service that connects to Clug, Brasov and Bucharest from the Hungarian capital, Budapest. The trip from Budapest to Bucharest takes about 14 hours, however.

GETTING AROUND: All of the major car rental companies are represented in Romania. A mid-size car costs between $450 and $500 for a week in summer, with local companies such as Euro Service Amerom tending to be a little cheaper. But driving in Romania can be a little hairy for those used to major highways. If you want the freedom of your own transportation, one alternative is to contact a local travel agency and hire a car and driver who can chauffeur for a fixed rate. If he drives too fast, as he will, just tell him to slow down. Alternatively, there is somewhat decrepit train and bus network for those willing to rough it. For vacation packages, the tour operator will provide all transportation on coaches.

WHERE TO STAY: The big cities have a selection of hotels, and outside of Bucharest most places are priced from as low as $20 a night.

In Brasov, I stayed at the Hotel Capitol (Blvd. Eroilor 19 or Blvd. Gheorghe Gheorghiu Dej 19), one of the city's more expensive hotels, where a single room costs $60 a night and a double costs about $80. Dracula's Castle is an easy commute from Brasov, but there are also guest houses in the village of Bran. In Sighisoara, I stayed at the Hotel Rex (18 Dumbravei St.) for $25 a night -- or $40 for a double -- which offers basic accommodations with private bath and breakfast.

In Bucharest, the international chains are represented, and they are pricey ($200-plus). Locally managed hotels in the capital include the Hotel Bucuresti (63-81 Calea Victoriei St.), where I stayed, which costs $180 a night for a single, $196 for a double.

There is also a national network of guest houses, some of which cater to agrotourism, for those who want a completely rural experience. The Romanian National Tourist Board (see below) can provide details. And if you ever get really stuck, just stop and ask anyone if they know of somewhere you can stay, and invariably you'll be offered a bed for the night. I've done it for $10 a night.

WHERE TO EAT: Ask your hotel to recommend a restaurant serving traditional fare -- it's generally better to get out of the hotels. The Romanian menu is meat-centric, with heavy goulashes and multiple pork dishes, often in thick sauces. Local dishes include cabbage or vine leaves stuffed with rice and meat, called sarmale, or polenta served with sour cream. The country's wines are good, particularly the reds. Vintners are bottling some merlots as Vampire wine.

INFORMATION: Romanian National Tourist Office, 212-545-8484, www.romaniatourism.com.