Burma in the Balance

It's a fair question. Ask an activist why Burma deserves a tourism boycott when other oppressive states don't -- China, Tibet and Cuba come to mind as popular destinations with dodgy human rights records -- and they cite the dynamic role of Suu Kyi.

"There are three key factors that make Burma unique," says Jackson of Burma Campaign. "You have an elected party that's never been allowed to take power that is asking people not to come. You have a government that tries to promote tourism specifically to raise desperately needed hard currency. And you have systemic, pervasive human rights abuses used to build the very infrastructure tourists use when they go there."

How firmly committed Suu Kyi is to the boycott is a matter of debate, according to Western diplomatic sources in Rangoon. Clearly, her party is not about to give up any bargaining points before the regime begins long-promised, long-delayed negotiations. But Suu Kyi has softened her opposition to certain kinds of humanitarian aid to Burma. And on tourism, her spokesman seemed to allow a little wiggle room in a recent phone interview, suggesting that some kinds of targeted tourism are more acceptable than others.

"My party's official position is that unless we have a dialogue [with the government] we will not change our stance," said U Lwin. "My personal view is that it is up to the individual tourist. Does their money go to the local people? Sometimes, yes. But most of them are not serious. They are looking at the countryside on a bus."

"In Burma," he says, unnecessarily, "things are a little bit different."

Details: Burma

The call to boycott tourism to Burma is voluntary, not official. The U.S. government maintains strict trade sanctions against the country but doesn't prohibit travel there. And Burma is not on the State Department's current list of countries travelers should avoid. However, the department does warn about political tensions: "Popular unrest and violence continue to be possible. U.S. citizens traveling in Burma should exercise caution and check with the U.S. Embassy for an update on the current situation." Details: www.travel.state.gov/burma.html.

For more information on the boycott, contact the Free Burma Coalition in Washington (202-547-5985, www.freeburmacoalition.org) or Britain's Burma Campaign (www.burmacampaign.org.uk).

If you decide to visit Burma, here are some things to know.

GETTING THERE: Several major Asian airlines fly into Rangoon, including Thai Airlines via Bangkok and Singapore Air's Silk Air through Singapore. Round-trip fares from Washington are all over the map, but seem to range within $2,000 to $5,000. One way to save money is to shop for bargains to Asia, then add on the relatively cheap hop to Rangoon (about $200 from Bangkok right now).

VISAS: Burma grants 28-day tourist visas for $20; contact the Myanmar Embassy in Washington (2300 S St. NW, 202-332-9044).

CURRENCY: At the airport in Rangoon, all arriving foreigners are required to exchange $200 in cash for dollar-pegged Foreign Exchange Credits, which are accepted by hotels, larger restaurants and shops. For the kyat, the official exchange rate of six to a dollar is universally ignored in favor of street rates closer to 1,000 to 1,200 kyats to the dollar.

WHERE TO STAY: Whether Burmese hotels are controlled, directly or indirectly, by the military regime is a matter of mystery and debate. Here are some that purport to be as independent as possible: the