No Questions? Good. Now Enjoy Your Stay

Lest the mountains, lakes and tourist attractions lull you into a false sense of security, officials constantly remind guests that they are surrounded by a military installation that includes a naval base across the port from where a small cruise ship docks each week. Visitors are instructed not to talk to the locals about politics or economics. Two years ago, one South Korean woman merely suggested that her nation, which is 13 times as wealthy as the communist North, had a higher standard of living. She was arrested and held for seven days until Hyundai negotiated her release. Photos here are limited to shots of the tourist installations and specified views of Mount Kumgang itself.

There are no exceptions.

One Dutch visitor captivated by the serenity of the scene snapped a digital photo of the mountain setting with a happy sign in the background declaring "Welcome to Mount Kumgang." But she inadvertently clicked just as two North Korean soldiers with sidearms were walking by.

"Hey, you!" they barked in Korean. "Come here!"

"The soldiers were not amused," said Eunmi Postma, a Dutch journalist based in Seoul.

They demanded the tourist's camera and asked to see her passport.

"But, I mean, all I did was try to take a picture of the welcome sign," she said. "The soldiers were so far away you couldn't even make them out in the photo. I finally deleted the picture so they wouldn't take my camera.

"I know it's North Korea, but still, this is supposed to be a tourism resort. . . . What a weird place."