Look Out Below!

BIKING: Calle Sagarnaga, La Paz's main tourist drag, is lined with agencies offering rides down the "Road of Death," but beware that many use poor-quality bikes and unqualified guides.

One reputable agency is Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking (Avenida 16 de Julio 1490, 011-591-2-231-3849, www.gravitybolivia.com), whose tours begin at $49. They fill up fast, so book at least a week in advance. Gravity was closed the day I visited, so I went with Downhill Madness (Sagarnaga 339, 011-591-2-239-1810, www.andesamazon.com), which charges $45 and up for the ride, depending on the caliber of the bike.

Tour prices generally include transport up the mountain, a ride back to La Paz, guides, food and bike/equipment. As of my visit, both agencies had English-speaking guides (other La Paz agencies may not). Rides last about five or six hours (all day, if you count time on the bus), and sunscreen, sunglasses, warm clothing and courage are obligatory.

Both agencies offer excellent mountain bike routes in addition to the Road of Death, but these are less popular, so trips leave less frequently; inquire in advance.

WHEN TO GO: The April to October dry season is the best time to go. In the height of rainy season (late December to mid-February), the road may be so muddy that some agencies will refuse to ride it.

WHERE TO STAY: La Paz's accommodations range from budget hostels charging a few dollars a night to five-star hotels with saunas. I stayed at the Hostal Austria (Yanacocha 531, 011-591-2-240-8540), a somewhat dank -- but friendly -- budget spot with singles with shared bath beginning at $4.50 per night.

A better budget value is the Hostal Copacabana (Calle Illampu 734, 011-591-2-245-1138), which has similar prices, nicer rooms and a better location. The best value in town may be the Hotel Rosario (Avenida Illampu 704, 011-591-2-245-1658, www.hotelrosario.com), which has a small museum, a warm atmosphere and free Internet access. Doubles begin at $41 in the July-August high season and start at $37 the rest of the year.

If you prefer something more luxurious, consider the Hotel Plaza (Paseo El Prado, 011-591-2-237-8311, www.plazabolivia.com.bo). Well-located on La Paz's principal avenue, the hotel has a sauna, heated pool, two restaurants and 165 recently refurbished rooms. Rates from $99 single, $130 double.

INFORMATION: The Web sites for Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking and Downhill Madness (above) are both good sources of info on mountain biking. For general information on Bolivia, contact the Bolivian Consulate at 202-232-4827. Other good Web sites include www.explorebolivia.com and www.boliviaweb.com.

-- Ben Brazil