Peru: The Ruin of Me

Ben Brazil last wrote for Travel on Bolivia's "Road of Death."

Details: Chachapoyas, Peru

GETTING THERE: To reach Chachapoyas, fly into Lima, Peru, and proceed from there. Connecting round-trip flights from Washington to Lima start at about $650. Aero Continente offers Saturday-only service between Lima and Chachapoyas; flights begin at $148 round trip and should be confirmed before traveling.

Buses are more frequent and reliable, but much longer. Service from Lima generally passes through the coastal city of Chiclayo and takes around 24 hours. Bus companies plying the route include Movil Tours (Av. Paseo de la Republica 749, Lima, 011-51-1-332-0024) and CIVA (corner of Paseo de la Republica and Avenida 28 de Julio, Lima, 011-51-1423- 2755, www.civa.com.pe). Prices vary by bus quality but run about $14 to $20 each way. From Chiclayo, where the mountain road to Chachapoyas begins, the ride takes up to 12 hours.

WHEN TO GO: The best time is mid-May to September, which Chachapoyas expert Keith Muscutt refers to as the "drier" season -- "since it often rains like hell for days on end." Of that period, July and August are the ideal months.

VISITING RUINS: The area around Chachapoyas is crawling with ruins, many accessible by car. The most convenient way to see them is via a local travel agency like Amazon Tours (Ortiz Arrieta 520, Chachapoyas, 011-51-41-778-294). Several other agencies also provide transportation to the sites; taking a taxi is also an option. More remote ruins are accessible only by foot, horse or mule. Rob Dover's Vilaya Tours (Grau 624, Chachapoyas, 011-51-41-777-506, www.vilayatours.com) can get you to those ruins, as well as to more accessible ones, on either hotel-based or trekking tours lasting five to 15 days. Prices start at $760.

Independent travelers can save substantially by making arrangements with guides, though you may need to speak Spanish. Sinecio Garro Gutierrez, a local farmer and my hard-working guide, can be contacted at his home, San Agustin 315 in Leymebamba. Although Sinecio is trying to learn English, you should plan to speak Spanish if you travel with him.

WHERE TO STAY: My favorite place in the city of Chachapoyas is Casa Vieja (Chincha Alta 569, 011-51-41-777-353, www.casaviejaperu.com), which has a pleasant courtyard and a comfortable, rustic sitting area with a fireplace. Doubles are about $17 a night. Another excellent option is Casona Monsante (Amazonas 746, 011-51-41-777-702), a historic home converted into a charming hotel with a nice patio. Doubles begin at $21.

Options are more limited and more basic in Leymebamba. I stayed at La Casona (Amazonas 221, 011-51-41-770-261), a new place with nice rooms and wonderfully creaky wooden walkways. Doubles begin at $11.50 per night. Inquire at local tour agencies for more luxurious choices.

INFORMATION: PromPeru, 011-51- 1224-3279, www.peru.org.pe. Consulate of Peru, 202-833-9860. EnjoyPeru, a consortium of travel agencies, maintains a helpful Web site (www.enjoyperu.com) and a call center for tourist information (888-223- 6772).

-- Ben Brazil