Oaxaca, Where the Cooking's Hot and Cool

Two foods loom large in Oaxacan experience: corn and chocolate. Different kinds of corn are grown for different purposes and even for different kinds of tortillas. In the Mixteca area, Trilling explained, corn in its various forms is not only eaten but revered. Many of the Mixtecans' myths have to do with corn, so planting and harvesting are very respected.

Chocolate is equally revered: in moles and in all kinds of drinks, including special drinks for health and good fortune.

Each day was carefully scheduled. By the end of the course, we'd learned about both the pre- and post-Spanish culinary heritages of the area. We saw fresh cheese made, chocolate processed and were introduced to fruits and vegetables that don't make it north of the border. We were also introduced to artisans of Oaxacan pottery, carpets and painted woodwork.

We made three extensive meals in the school's kitchen and ate in some very special places: one lunch restaurant stayed open one evening to make dinner for us; another located in the backyard garden of a private home where the owner serves dinner to special customers a few times a week; another on the veranda of a family of weavers; and another all-mushroom meal high up in the hills in the home of a mushroom forager and his family.

We even found time for a few margaritas.

Most of all, we learned that you don't have to go to Europe to experience a culture that respects its culinary past and shows it off to visitors with pride. "Food plays an important part in the lifestyle here," said Trilling. "People love to talk about food. It's part of the culture. And there's great pride in their cooking: They feel like Oaxacan food is the best in Mexico, and they want to share it with you."

Details: Cooking Class

Susana Trilling's classes are offered throughout the year, and range from a single-day class to long weekends to an entire week. Prices start at $75 for a group day class (mostly for travelers already going to Oaxaca) and go up to $950 to $1,285 for a long weekend (depending on the length of the class and any fees associated with it) and $1,695 to $1,795 for a full week. Airfare is not included.

The class I attended was described as a long weekend class, which really meant six nights and five days. The cost was $1,285, which included lodging in a modest hotel in Oaxaca, transportation to and from the classes, market and field trips, a dance festival and almost all meals.

GETTING THERE: Until recently, the only way to fly to Oaxaca from the East Coast was to transfer in Mexico City. That is still an option. However, this summer Continental introduced direct service to Oaxaca from Houston. Round-trip fare from Washington is about $475.

INFORMATION: www.seasonsofmyheart.com,telephone 011-52-951-5187726.

-- Judith Weinraub