Upper West Side Story

Nicole Cotroneo last wrote for Travel about Cuban food in South Florida.

Several bus companies travel the D.C.-NYC corridor for $20 one way/$35 round-trip, including Vamoose (877-393-2828, http://www.vamoosebus.com/) or Washington Deluxe (866-287-6932, http://www.washny.com/); information on other coaches is available at http://www.ivymedia.com/. Greyhound has a matching Internet-only fare (800-231-2222, http://www.greyhound.com/.). If you want to drive, it's about 4 1/2 hours from the Beltway.

WHERE TO STAY: The Hotel Beacon (2130 Broadway, 212-787-1100, http://www.beaconhotel.com/), comfortable and modest, is a bargain by New York standards. Perks include a fully equipped kitchenette in every room. Special room rates until the end of January are $155 plus tax for a standard room, $205 per night for a suite. After that, standard rooms start at $180 and suites at $205.

The Excelsior (45 W. 81st St., 212-362-9200, http://www.1excelsior.com/) is a more sophisticated option near the American Museum of Natural History and the Hayden Planetarium. Rooms are decorated in floral and leafy patterns, and the hotel boasts a stately library and a well-equipped fitness room. Winter rates range between $159 and $179 for a standard room, between $229 and $249 for a suite.

The Mandarin Oriental, New York (80 Columbus Cir. at 60th Street, 212-805-8800, http://www.mandarinoriental.com/) is a tempting and extravagant splurge. The lobby and restaurant, Asiate, offer top-notch views of Central Park. Guest rooms are available with Hudson River or park vistas. Most feature Asian-accented decor, flat-screen televisions over soaking tubs, seamless glass showers and binoculars to take full advantage of the views. Swim in the 75-foot lap pool or get a treatment at the spa. Standard room rates are about $625 per night; rooms with the best views range from $700 to $12,595 for the presidential suite.

WHERE TO EAT: It is nearly impossible to pass by Popcorn, Indiana (2170 Broadway) without the aroma of air-popped kernels luring you in for a paper bag of lightly salted "Drive-In Movie Natural" popcorn or the ultra- decadent "Chocolate Chunk N' Caramel." A six-cup bag of fresh popcorn ranges from $3 (plain) to $4.50 (chocolate caramel).

Amsterdam Avenue offers a veritable menu of the world's cuisine, but Monsoon (435 Amsterdam Ave.) is a sure bet. Decorated with tasteful Indochinese accents, the Vietnamese restaurant offers an extensive, moderately priced menu with comprehensive descriptions supplemented by a helpful waitstaff. For an introduction to taste and texture, try the assorted appetizer platter with grilled lemon grass chicken, sugar cane shrimp, beef satay and more. Entrees range from $8.95 to $18.95.

For old-fashioned soda fountain fare, stop by Homer's World Famous Malt Shop (487 Amsterdam Ave.). Open late for midnight munching, Homer's offers comfort food such as sweet potato fries and deep-fried Twinkies, and video arcade games for round-the-clock amusement.

Ruby Foo's (2182 Broadway) offers imaginative Pan-Asian cuisine in a cavernous space that is -- like most things New York -- over the top, with a sweeping staircase and ostentatious Eastern decor. The dim sum is a favorite; try the Ruby Foo cocktail, the plum sake version of a Cosmopolitan. Main plates run from $10.50 to $24.95.

If you are a foodie with a fat wallet, reserve a table (or dare to try) at a restaurant in the Time Warner Center (Columbus Circle). Renowned chefs include Thomas Keller ( Per Se), Masa Takayama ( Masa and the more affordable Bar Masa) and Jean-Georges Vongerichten ( V Steakhouse).

WHAT TO DO: City lights may make Manhattan nights too bright to see stars, but the Hayden Planetarium (inside the Rose Center for Earth and Space at the American Museum of Natural History, Central Park West at 79th Street, 212-769-5100) brings the Milky Way to you. Combined passes to the American Museum of Natural History, the Rose Center and a planetarium show are $22.

Jazz, opera, ballet, film, theater -- there's always something on at Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts (Broadway between 62nd and 65th streets, 212-875-5456, http://www.lincolncenter.org/). For more information about Jazz at Lincoln Center at the Time Warner Center: http://www.jazzatlincolncenter.com/.

For some nontraditional exercise in this vertical city, find the Harmony Atrium (61 W. 62nd St.), where you can scale the city's largest climbing wall. Staff members from ExtraVertical (212-586-5718, http://www.extravertical.com/) assist novices young and old.

Jerry Seinfeld has been known to stop in at Stand-Up New York, (236 W. 78th St., 212-595-0850, http://www.standupny.com/), a comedy club that has featured talent ranging from television stars to the Next Big Thing. Tickets range from $10 to $15.

An Art Deco landmark, the ornate Beacon Theatre (2124 Broadway, 212-496-7070) hosts performers from heavy metal rockers to gospel choirs. Tickets usually range from $25 to $100, and you'll be hard-pressed to find a bad seat in the house.

INFORMATION: NYC & Company, 212-484-1200, http://www.nycvisit.com/.

-- Nicole Cotroneo