In Madison, Wis., the King of Quirks

Details: Madison, Wis.

GETTING THERE: Northwest will begin daily nonstops to Madison from Reagan National on June 9, with round-trip fares from about $287. American, Northwest, Midwest, Continental, United and Delta operate connecting flights starting at about $160 round trip.

WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Ruby Marie (524 E. Wilson St., 608-327-7829, http://www.rubymarie.com/ ) is a 19th-century-style inn furnished with antiques. Weekday rates start at $72 double, $110 on weekends. For luxury, Mansion Hill Inn (424 N. Pinckney St., 800-798-9070, http://www.mansionhillinn.com/ ) is a finely restored Victorian mansion. Some rooms have whirlpool tubs and fireplaces. Weekday rates start at $155 double, $185 on weekends.

There are numerous brand-name hotels. We were pleased with the Best Western Inn on the Park (22 S. Carroll St., 800-279-8811, http://www.innonthepark.net/ ), overlooking Capitol Square in the heart of town. Doubles start at $89 per night.

WHERE TO EAT: Madison boasts two gourmet restaurants that feature organic, locally grown food prepared in French and American styles. Both offer views of the Capitol square. The more famous of the two: L'Etoile (25 N. Pinckney, 608-251-0500, http://www.letoile-restaurant.com/ ), where most entrees are about $28, and reservations are critical. At Harvest (21 N. Pinckney, 608-255-6075, http://www.harvest-restaurant.com/ ), most entrees are about $25.

It doesn't look like much from the outside, but Tornado Steak House (116 S. Hamilton St., 608-256-3570) serves prime beef, from about $20. For lunch, go on the University of Wisconsin's campus to Memorial Union (800 Langdon St., 608-265-3000, http://www.union.wisc.edu/food/index.html ). The cafeteria-style food isn't anything to write home about, but the view of the lake and campus is unsurpassed. Afterward, stroll to the campus's Babcock Hall Dairy Store (1605 Linden Dr., 608-262-3045, http://www.wisc.edu/foodsci/store ) for ice cream, cheese and yogurt. Michael Feldman's favorite hangout is the Crystal Corner Bar (1302 Williamson St., 608-256-2953, http://www.thecrystalcornerbar.com/ ), which has live bands, and serves only drinks and pizza ($8 for a 12-inch pie).

"WHAD'YA KNOW?": Michael Feldman's radio show -- which is broadcast at noon Saturdays on WAMU (88.5 FM) in D.C. and at WYPR (88.1) in Baltimore -- is performed live Saturdays at 10 a.m. at the Monona Terrace Civic Center in Madison. Tickets are $10.50. Details: 608-262-2201, http://www.notmuch.com/ .

INFORMATION: Greater Madison Convention and Visitors Bureau , 800-373-6376, http://www.visitmadison.com/ . For university information, including museums and activities: 608-263-2400, http://www.civc.wisc.edu/ .

-- Cindy Loose