And then there's the fishing. Sunday morning, a sunnier day, I was on Spruce Creek with guide Eric Stroup, who owns the Spruce Creek Fly Company and also guides for Spring Ridge Club -- membership in which entitles you to guides, lodging and fishing in some of the club-owned or -leased waterways.
One stretch of Spruce Creek is open to the public. To fish privately held areas, you need to either join the fishing club or go with one of the guides who have negotiated access with landowners. The Little Juniata, on the other hand, is open to the public, however the issue of access is currently part of a long-running court battle.
I needed a guide in any event. The sum total of my previous fishing experience was dropping a hook and a worm into a pond and getting freaked when a tiny fish got stuck on the hook. Neither I nor the fish knew how to get it loose.
Fishing had always seemed boring to me. But I discovered that fly-fishing is to regular fishing what surfing a wave is to taking a bath.
I loved the challenge of casting and recasting a line so that the hook dropped at the precise spot where I just saw a big trout leap to catch an insect. I hooked more trees than fish, but finally caught a shiny brown trout.
I'd always assumed that casting was the big-deal skill in fly-fishing. But I soon learned that's just the fun and easy part. I struggled with hitting the current just right. You have to have your line drift at the exact same speed as the current; otherwise, the fish won't be fooled. Even more challenging: It takes years of practice to even get a clue about what fly to put on your hook.
Stroup said there are about 100 insects that the fish feed on in this area. But on a given day, they'll be going for just one kind. Further, they'll be going for one insect in a given stage. Stroup has 1,000 different flies to mimic the various versions of insects a trout might find tasty.
The day before, he had taken out an experienced fisherman who netted about 30 fish. But I was happy with my sole trout. My four hours flew by. After one morning on a crisp spring day, I was the one who was hooked.
Now, I have yet one more reason to dream of Spruce Creek. And one more reason to return.
Escape Keys
GETTING THERE: Spruce Creek, in Huntingdon County, Pa., is a 3 1/2 -hour drive from Washington. Take I-270 north to I-70 west, exit at Tyrone and pick up Route 453/45 east to Spruce Creek.
WHERE TO STAY: Spruce Creek B&B (4892 Spruce Creek Rd., 866-632-3777, http://www.sprucecreekbnb.com/ ) includes two 19th-century houses. Prices for a double range from $80 to $200 a night. Cedar Hill (4514 Spruce Creek Rd., 888-764-9790, http://www.cedarhill-sprucecreek.com/ ) is a bed-and-breakfast on a 42-acre farm. Doubles range from $85 to $165.
WHERE TO EAT: The Spruce Creek Tavern (4930 Spruce Creek Rd.), the only eatery in town, serves up fantastic hand-cut french fries and good sandwiches. Try the cheese steak for $3.95. For fine dining, about 12 miles from Spruce Creek, Burley's (954 Pennsylvania Ave., Tyrone) serves a variety of fish and meat entrees beginning at about $15.
HIKING AND BIKING: You need a keen eye to spot Rothrock State Forest from Spruce Creek Road, also known as Route 45, the main drag through town. Set your odometer at Spruce Creek Tavern and travel 1.8 miles east. Turn right and you'll see the sign. FISHING: A three-day out-of-state fishing permit costs $35. Outfitters providing guides and equipment for fishing either private or public waterways include Spruce Creek Fly Company (3880 Spruce Creek Rd., 814-632-0053, http://www.sprucecreekflyco.com/ ) and Spruce Creek Outfitters (4910 Spruce Creek Rd., 814-632-3071, http://www.sprucecreekoutfitters.org/ ). If you're very serious about fishing, the Spring Ridge Club (5531 Riverside Drive, 877-788-9797, http://www.springridgeclub.com/ ) currently has three memberships open -- $89,000 to join, which gets you access to private fishing spots, accommodations and guides. Two Spruce Creek properties rent accommodations with private stream access: Spruce Creek Lodge (814-632-8550, http://www.sprucecreeklodge.com/ ) offers a two-bedroom, two-bath lodge for two nights, access to a half-mile of private stream, and two days of fishing with a guide for two for $1,800. At Evergreen Farms (814-632-5925) two cottages cost $600 a night for four people, each with a mile of private stream.
INFO: Huntingdon County Visitors Bureau, 814-658- 0060, http://www.raystown.org/ .
