Where the Boys Are, Part 2

Bonnet House, a five-minute walk from the beach, is a rambling plantation mansion where 20th-century American portrait and landscape painter Frederic Clay Bartlett and his wife spent their winters. About a dozen rooms are opulently decorated with his and others' paintings, lifesized carved animals, sculptures and other artwork. Bartlett, a lesser-known artist of the early to mid-20th century, had painted exotic landscape murals on some of the walls and ceilings. A small cottage on the grounds has three alluring rooms, including one covered in seashells, another filled with orchids and a third decorated in bamboo. It is surrounded by a lush 35-acre garden of palms and other tropical plants.

Sunday afternoon is a time when most gay clubs feature "tea dances," usually events in which the younger set lets loose to celebrate the end of the weekend. At the Voodoo Lounge, a SW Second Avenue warehouse downtown, the party was well underway.

Muscular male dancers wearing only tight swimsuits and boots strutted along one bar. At another, gay men and women in their twenties and thirties lined up for Long Island iced tea and other cocktails. Techno music blared from oversize speakers, keeping the expansive dance floor throbbing. In the next room, an emcee entertained patrons with jokes, a kissing contest, an impromptu version of "American Idol" and a drag show. Although probably as hot as Fort Lauderdale clubs get, the scene was still a couple of degrees more low-key than at South Beach counterparts.

"It's a tame kind of event, but what can I say?" said Tad Baker, a 27-year-old in jeans and a white T-shirt. "We're tame kind of folks."

At some point it's great for visitors of every persuasion to get out of the clubs and onto the water. A cruise on the Jungle Queen, a paddleboat, offers a chance to see the vast network of canals and waterways laced in and around the city. Pushing off from its port near the Beach Area, the mid-size covered boat steers along the inland passage that runs along Florida's inner coastline. Along the way, you can see the multimillion-dollar mansions of entrepreneurs and celebrities, including Tiger Woods and Jimmy Dean of sausage fame.

At a small private island, caged macaws, chimpanzees and other exotic creatures were on display. Jim, a wildlife trainer, jumped in a cage with three alligators and proceeded to wow the crowd by propping open the mouth of one and sticking his hand inside. On the way back, the guide pointed out the fleet of yachts that use the waters off Lauderdale's coast as their parking lot.

Back at the Royal Palms guesthouse that night, three men played in the pool as a gardener watered the orchids and Heather, a transgendered staff member serving chablis at the outdoor bar, chatted about her new boyfriend, her garden and her social life. "It was tough here at first," she said, "but now I wouldn't want to be anywhere else."

As she spoke, I thought of Aguilera, the author of the ode to finding inner beauty whose music had rocked the dance floor at Boom two nights before. I wondered if she had any plans to give a concert in Lauderdale. I have no doubt that she would bring the house down.

Details: Fort Lauderdale

GETTING THERE: JetBlue flies nonstop from Dulles to Fort Lauderdale, Fla., for $153 round trip. United, Spirit and other carriers offer rates for less than $175 from Dulles and Reagan National (prices tend to run higher in the peak winter season). Taxis into the city run about $18, but since the attractions are spread out, you're best off renting a car.

WHERE TO STAY: There are more than two dozen gay hotels and guesthouses scattered around the city. Most cater largely to men, but women are welcome as well.

The Royal Palms (2901 Terramar St., 800-237-7256, http://www.royalpalms.com/ ) is a deluxe 12-room property two blocks from the beach with large, nicely furnished rooms with kitchenettes. Rates for doubles, including buffet breakfast and cocktails, start at $179 a night. Around the corner is the Grand Resort and Spa (539 N. Birch Rd., 800-818-1211, http://www.grandresort.net/ ), an attractive 34-room property with a full-service spa, pool, hot tub and complimentary buffet breakfast. The rooms are spacious and the garden lovely. From May 1 to Dec. 22, standard doubles start at $95 a night.

For budget travelers, the 10-room Alhambra Resort (3021 Alhambra St., 877-309-4014, http://www.alhambrabeachresort.com/ ) has basic but clean rooms. The gay beach is a couple of blocks away. Doubles go for $69 a night between May 16 and Dec. 15.

Prefer larger properties? The Sheraton Yankee Trader Hotel (312 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., 888-627-7109, http://www.sheratontrader.com/ ) is gay-friendly and right across from the beach. Doubles start at $89 a night.

WHERE TO EAT: Galanga Thai Kitchen & Sushi Bar (2389 Wilton Dr., Wilton Manors, 954-202-0000) serves superb Thai specialties and seafood in a romantic setting. The curries and sushi are particularly tasty. Dinner for two, with a couple of beers, will run around $65.

Hamburger Mary's (2449 Wilton Dr., Wilton Manors, 954-567-1320, http://www.hamburgermarysftl.com/ ) has a lively, campy atmosphere and way-above-average burgers and fries. Lunch for two runs around $20. The Floridian (1410 E. Las Olas, 954-463-4041), with solid diner fare, is the place to be on Sunday mornings. A platter of eggs, toast and coffee runs around $20 for two.

For a splurge, you won't go wrong at Trina (601 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., 954-567-8070, http://www.theatlantichotelfortlauderdale.com/trina ), in the new oceanfront Atlantic Hotel. The grilled fish and chicken dishes are best. If the prices (around $110 for a dinner for two, with dessert and a couple of glasses of wine) are too steep, pop in for a tropical cocktail.

CLUBS: Georgie's Alibi (2266 Wilton Dr., Wilton Manors, 954-565-2526, http://www.georgiesalibi.com/ ), a casual sports and video bar, is an excellent place to start the night. Beers run for around $4. If you're up for dancing, slide over to Boom (2232 Wilton Dr., Wilton Manors, 954-630-3556), a few doors down, where the music is good and the crowd eclectic.

On Sundays from around 5 p.m. on, the Babylon T Dance (111 SW Second Ave., 954-522-0733, http://www.garysantis.com/ ) is the party to catch, with hot dancers on the bar and cool music. Admission $5 before 7 p.m., $7 afterward. Drinks run around $4.50.

MUSEUMS:

· Fort Lauderdale Museum of Art (1 E. Las Olas Blvd., 954- 525-5500, http://www.moafl.org/ ), at the city's Riverwalk, is two floors of modern and contemporary art, mostly American and European with a Cuban collection as well. The Tutankhamen show is slated to run Dec. 15 to April 23. Admission is $6.

· Bonnet House (900 N. Birch Rd., 954-563-5393, http://www.bonnethouse.org/ ), the former home of artist Frederic Clay Bartlett and his wife, is well worth a tour. The well-preserved mansion and gardens offer a delightful window into how this eccentric couple lived. House admission $12, grounds only $8.

INFORMATION: The Fort Lauderdale Convention & Visitors Bureau (800-22-SUNNY, http://www.sunny.org/rainbow ) has packets specially designed for gay visitors, including gay-oriented lodging and entertainment tips, as well as general tourism information.

-- Gary Lee