DETAILS Puglia, Italy

GETTING THERE: Fly to Rome or another European capital, then into the Bari or Brindisi airport on a European budget airline. Round- trip flights from Dulles to Rome start at $1,096, with one stop. Alitalia flies from Rome to Bari for $457 round trip. Britain's low-cost Ryanair ( http://www.ryanair.com ) has round-trip fares starting at about $85 from London's Stansted Airport.

GETTING AROUND: A car is necessary to explore Puglia. Check rates of international companies and reserve in advance.

WHEN TO GO: Best times are May, June and September. Avoid August, when Italians flock to the area's beaches.

WHERE TO STAY: Prices below include one night's stay in a double room with breakfast. To explore the Murge hills, including the Val d'Itria and the trulli, stay in the central area between Bari, the provincial capital, and Brindisi. The Masseria San Domenico (Savelletri di Fasano, 011-39-0804-827769, http://www.masseriasandomenico.com ) is built from an ancient watchtower on a 140-acre farm with a pool that resembles a natural lake, a spa, golf and tennis. From about $335.

Martina Franca is a good base for excursions, and the Villa Ducale (Piazzetta Sant'Antonio, 011-39-0804-805055; about $105) is a serviceable modern hotel. In Alberobello, Trullidea (Via Monte Nero, 011-39-0804-323860, http://www.trullidea.it ) rents renovated trulli as bed-and-breakfast studios with kitchens, starting at about $120.

In Lecce's historic center is the five-star Patria Palace Hotel (Piazzetta Riccardi, 011-39-0832-245111, http://www.patriapalacelecce.com ; about $280). A five-minute walk outside the center is the Hotel delle Palme (Via Dileuca, 90, 011-39-0832- 347171, http://www.paginegialle.it/dellepalme-03 ), offering nice big rooms for about $135.

On the Promontorio Del Gargano in Vieste, the small and friendly Hotel Svevo (Via Fratelli Bandiera, 011-39-0884-708830, http://www.viesteonline.it/hotelsvevo ) offers a good location between the sea and the town, and good value at about $100 to $120.

For an overnight stay in Matera's sassi cave areas, consider the four-star Hotel Sant'Angelo (011-39-0835-314010, http://www.hotelsantangelosassi.it ), about $155.

WHERE TO EAT: Eating well is not difficult in Puglia. For outstanding home-cooking in Lecce, don't miss Cucina Casareccia (Via Costadura 19, 011-39-0832-245178); dinner runs about $50 for two, plus wine. In Vieste, try the down-home Taverna Al Cantinone (Via Mafrolla 26, 011-39- 0884-707753), also about $50 for two.

In the Murge hills, those inclined may want to splurge (about $110 for two, plus wine) in Alberobello at Il Poeta Contadino (Via Indipendenza 21, 011-39-0804-321917), or while away an afternoon or evening outside of Ostuni in rural paradise on the family farm, Il Frantoio (SS16 km 874, Ostuni, 011-39- 0831-330276, http://www.trecolline.it ), which is also a bed-and-breakfast. Meals are about $64 per person, including wine.

In Matera, at the Sanrocco brothers' Antica Trattoria Lucana, 1900 (Via Lucana 48, 011-39-0835-336117, http://www.trattorialucana.it ), visiting film stars rub shoulders with locals. Try the inventive pasta specialties. About $50 for two, plus wine.

GROTTE DI CASTELLANA: Families with children will want to tour the Grotte di Castellana ( http://www.grottedicastellana.it ), the immense natural underground caves in the hills outside of Bari. Admission is about $10.50 or $17, depending on whether you take the 45- or 90-minute tour.

INFORMATION: Puglia Turismo , http://www.pugliaturismo.com . For information on Matera and the Basilicata region: Matera Turismo , http://www.materaturismo.it/english .

-- Robert V. Camuto