DETAILS Nicaragua

WHERE TO EAT: In Managua, we sought out traditional Nicaraguan food at the Cocina de Doña Haydee (three locations in central Managua; http://www.lacocina.com.ni/portada.html ), where entrees are under $10.

In Granada, El Zaguan (011-505-552-2522), behind the cathedral, grilled a mean filet mignon; dinner and drinks for two ran about $24. We also had our best breakfast of the trip, for about $3 each, at the expat-heavy Nica Buffet , on Calle Morazan just one block over from the park.

In San Juan del Sur, Ricardo's Bar (Paseo Maritimo, http://www.sanjuandelsur.org.ni/ricardosbar/main.html ) is the place to go to get boozy with other travelers (drinks are under $2), borrow a book or watch a movie on Mondays.

In Jinotega, La Colmena (011-505-632-2017), a block east of the main plaza, may look plain, but its green tablecloths signal the nicest restaurant in town. Lunch for two ran $16.

INFORMATION: Guides dedicated to Nicaragua can be hard to find in local bookstores, so you might want to go online. The Footprint and Moon Handbook guides are a couple of years old, but for the most part accurate.

The Nicaraguan Tourism Institute (INTUR), http://www.intur.gob.ni , has offices in several cities in Nicaragua, including Managua and Granada. Its Web site lists several tour operators. Another site worth checking out for its innovative programs is Tours Nicaragua ( http://www.toursnicaragua.com ). -- Sandy M. Fernandez