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A Shore Town Reborn
Sunrise near 37th St. at Virginia Beach with a sand castle street sculpture in foreground and walkers along the boardwalk.
(Karen Tam)
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2109 W. Great Neck Rd., 757-496-4350. Fried calamari/ onion rings appetizer $7, entrees $18-$30.
· BEST HIKE
Take the 191 steps up the cast-iron spiral stairway to the top of the historic 1792 Old Cape Henry Lighthouse for a marvelous view of the bay and oceanfront community.
On Fort Story at the north end of the beach. Photo ID required for those 18 and older. Lighthouse fee is $3. 757-422-9421, http:/
· BEST KID ACTIVITY
Get 'em on a boat at the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center , with 700,000 gallons of aquariums, 300 hands-on exhibits, a nature trail and aviary. Several educational water activities are offered, including the popular dolphin watch aboard a 65-foot catamaran and the pontoon float in Owls Creek Salt Marsh.
717 General Booth Blvd., 757-425-FISH, http:/
· BEST SURPRISE
Is that a bong being passed around? Yep. It's hookah night every Friday at Croc's. A dozen different-flavored tobaccos -- strawberry, mint, licorice . . . bubblegum! -- are available. Thursday is live band dance night, and the place is packed. Food's good, too.
620 19th St. (at Cypress Avenue), 757-428-5444, http:/
· BEST CAMPSITE
One of the 218 campsites (tent, camper or motor home) and 20 cabins at First Landing State Park. Campsites, less than $30 a night with electrical and water hookup, are squeezed between the sculpted branches of live oaks, behind a dune line bordering the Chesapeake Bay. Cabins, which rent for $646 (for in-state residents) to $717 (out-of-state) per week in prime season, are in the state park across Shore Drive. Prices drop to $65 a night off season (December through March).
2500 Shore Dr., 757-412-2300, reservations 800-933-7275, http:/
· BEST OVERNIGHT SPLURGE
VaBeach has 11,100 hotel rooms, but only one costs $1,000 per night. The Presidential Suite in the new Hilton at 31st Street has three balconies, two flat-screen TVs, a kitchenette, a banquet-size dining table, a sitting room with a sofa bed and a king-size bed in the bedroom. One floor up are the rooftop pool and bar.
Hilton Virginia Beach Oceanfront, 3001 Atlantic Ave., 757-213-3000,http:/
· BEST SNACK
Ice cream is passe. Fresh-fruit smoothies rule. Rose, behind the deli counter at the Heritage Health Foods Cafe, whips up healthful heavenly concoctions. Try the Hillary: bananas, honey, peanut butter, vanilla, soy milk and a dash of protein.
314 Laskin Rd., 757-428-0500. A Hillary is $4.25.
· BEST BAKERY
People have birthdays and anniversaries on vacation. Be ready with a cake from Sugar Plum Bakery. More than 40 varieties, including the Tropical Paradise, a yellow cake filled with pineapple and coconut, iced with rum-flavored butter cream and studded with fresh fruit and paper umbrellas. The bakery, which is dedicated to providing employment for the developmentally disabled, also serves lunch Monday through Saturday, and breakfast on Saturday.
1353 Laskin Rd., 757-422-3913, http:/
· BEST RAINY-DAY ACTIVITY
Awake your psychic powers at the Association for Research and Enlightenment, also known as the Edgar Cayce Center. The library and bookstore have extensive titles on the celebrated psychic and his remedies, as well as books on philosophy, astrology, health, spirituality and creativity. The Health and Rejuvenation Center offers a full range of treatments, including foot reflexology and castor oil packs. Student massages are a bargain at $27 an hour.
215 67th St., 757-428-3588,http:/
· BEST SOUVENIR
Retro plastic telescopes on a key chain with your picture inside, taken on the beach. Photographers roam the oceanfront from First to 42nd streets wearing pants with the "Scopes" logo. Pick up the finished "scope" at the studio.
Sunrays Studio, 209 25th St., 757-425-1412 . Scopes $5.99; $4.95 each for four or more.
HONORABLE MENTION: Forbes saltwater taffy in a turquoise-and-white box stamped with the slogan, "Full of sea breezes and sunshine."
Forbes Candies, three locations on Atlantic Avenue at 24th, 28th and 31st streets. Two taffy kisses in a box, 39 cents; $5.25 a pound. http:/
Susan Harb, a frequent contributor to Travel, has had a cottage at Virginia Beach for 25 years.
