In Zurich, More Than Steeple Chasing

Spread over several rooms, it includes self-portraits and images of his family members from the 1920s through the '50s, Cubist-inspired paintings from the 1920s, and finally the long-necked bronze sculptures that are his signature works.

From the museum, I walked 15 minutes to the nearby Thomas Mann Archives. The German-born novelist, author of "The Magic Mountain," made his home in Zurich and died in nearby Kilchberg in 1955. The neighborhood around the archives, near the city's main university, reminded me of how heavy the student influence is here. Located in a small office down a back street, the archives contain shelves of Mann's books, a few letters and other manuscripts. Although the space was basic, it was strongly reminiscent of one of my favorite writers.

Later that evening, when I met some friends in the Kronenhalle, a popular local restaurant, we discussed what makes Zurich different from other mid-size European cities. As the waiter brought hearty portions of roast veal and house-made noodles and a fine bottle of Swiss red wine, I realized the answer was right in front of me. In mid-conversation, I looked up to see that the walls were covered with original paintings by Joan Miro, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso and other celebrated artists.

I was impressed with the spectacular trove of art, but not terribly surprised. After four days in Zurich, I had come to expect that treasures might pop up anywhere.

GETTING THERE: Summer airfares from Washington to Zurich are in the $1,000 range ($1,230 nonstop). In September, Swiss has New York-to-Zurich flights for $670, with restrictions. United flies nonstop from Dulles for $765, and Austrian Airlines flies from Dulles via Vienna for $755 from Sept. 10 through October.

WHERE TO STAY: My base was the Hotel Baur au Lac (Talstrasse 1, 011-41-1-220-5020, http://www.bauraulac.ch/ ), a 160-year-old family-owned property whose spacious guest rooms are have a mix of traditional furnishings and modern technology. Some offer views of the Lake Zurich. Rooms on the weekend run $440 a night, double occupancy, with breakfast included. Weekday rates are $566, without breakfast.

The Hotel du Theatre (Seilergraben 69, 011-41-1-267- 2670, http://www.hotel-du-theatre.ch/ ) has a vibrant, youthful feel, with trendy furnishings in the lobby and guest rooms. Doubles start at $153 a night. For fewer frills, the Comfort Inn Royal (Leonhardstr. 6, 011-41-44- 266-5959, http://www.comfortinn.ch/ ) is centrally located, well-managed and clean. The rooms have nifty blond furniture and comfortable beds. Doubles, including a buffet breakfast, go for $173 a night.

WHERE TO EAT: For a novel dining experience, Blindekuh (Muehlebackstr. 148, 011-41-44- 421-5050, http://www.blindekuh.ch/ ), where guests eat in the dark, can't be exceeded. Be forewarned: The eyes never adjust to lack of light. The food is an unadventurous but tasty mix of salads, soups, fish and meat dishes. Dinner for two comes to around $100. Reserve well in advance.

Kronenhalle (Raemistrasse 4, 011-41-44-251-0256, http://www.kronenhalle.com/ ) features smoked pork with lentils, calves' liver, dumplings and other traditional Swiss dishes. The original paintings by Miro and other masters make it a treat for the eyes as well as the taste buds. Dinner, with a couple glasses of wine, costs around $100 for two.

WHAT TO DO:

· The next Opera Ball is March 11, 2006. Contact the Opera House (011-41-44268-6400, http://www.opernhaus.ch/ ) later this year for ticket prices.

· The Kunsthaus (Heimplatz 1, 011-41-44-253-8484, http://www.kunsthaus.ch/ ) is the city's main modern art museum. Free admission to regular exhibits with a Zurich card; otherwise, admission is from $8. Due to renovations, the exhibition rooms -- except the Giacometti wing -- are closed until December.

· Bucherer (Bahnhofstr. 50, 011-41-44-211-2635, http://www.bucherer.com/ ) is the place for watches and jewlery. For knives and other Swiss-made crafts and clothing, try Schweitzer Heimatwerk (Rudolf Brun-Bruecke, 011-41-44-217- 8317, http://www.heimatwerk.ch/ ).

· The Fraumuenster Church (Stadhausquai), decorated with Marc Chagall and Augusto Giacometti stained-glass windows, is in the city center, a couple of blocks from Bahnhofstrasse. Free.

INFORMATION: The Zurich Card , which offers access to museums and unlimited rides on public transport, is sold at the tourism office in the main train station; prices vary. Switzerland Tourism, 877-794- 8037, http://www.myswitzerland.com/ , or see Zurich Tourism 's Web site at http://www.zuerich.com/ .

-- Gary Lee