Pittsburgh: Hooked on Bass

"It's high-energy, exciting, constant movement," exults Iaconelli, the 2003 champ. "A new generation of anglers has come on the circuit with new styles." His own trademark is a penchant for breakdancing after big catches.

Television has created millions of couch anglers. Bass fishermen have their own line-up of ESPN shows, including "Loudmouth Bass," "Bassmaster University" and the upcoming "Bass Tech" (a sort of "Pimp My Boat" for hands-on types). There are even an online fantasy fishing leagues. The daily Classic weigh-ins, with cheering fans packing the arena, are broadcast live on ESPN Outdoors, which owns BASS. "Fishing has been a solitary sport. Now it's a spectator sport," says Chicago fishing commentator Chauncey Niziol. "Soon there will be marshals to keep crowds away so the pro anglers can fish."

Out on the river, however, the old-fashioned lure of floating, casting, reeling and relaxing doesn't change. We drift past industrial plants and city row houses, willow-strewn islands and bridges, more of the latter here than in any other county in the United States.

Eshbaugh's fishfinder displays an ultrasound of the river bottom in lurid color. A fluorescent orange blip moving up the right of the screen is a fish, climbing the underwater ridge 12 feet below the boat.

Fishfinders are essential tools on the pro circuit, and they really help. Thanks to the electronic readout, I can see how completely the fish ignores the wiggly fluorescent bait I'm dragging in front of it.

Eshbaugh methodically pulls in drum, bass and the occasional knot of frayed rope, which bends his line in the dark green water exactly like a trophy fish. His live catches stay that way, in the boat's oxygenated well. (At the tournament weigh-ins, the fish also make a live appearance. After a bath in antiseptic and salt solutions to calm them down, it's back to the river.)

It's after noon as we speed back to the center of town. As we near the 200-foot fountain at the confluence of the rivers, the gothic glass towers of PPG Place catch the reflection of the green hillsides on the river's southern bank. From here, the old steel town looks like Emerald City.

With the sun overhead, the Point is humming with jet skis and sternwheelers. Cruisers idle in the Allegheny, their pilots waiting for stray Pirate homers to splash into the river, clowning for the Jumbotron. Eshbaugh slows as we reach the ballpark landing to drop me off. As I step ashore, a cheer goes up from the crowd. Just for a minute, I think it's for me.

Couldn't be. I didn't catch a thing.

Christine H. O'Toole last wrote for Travel on Kansas City's jazz scene.

GETTING THERE: US Airways remains the dominant carrier to the Pittsburgh airport, 17 miles from downtown; nonstop fares start at about $145 round trip. Independence Air, flying from Dulles, offers weekend fares from $158 round trip. Downtown is approximately a five-hour drive from the Beltway.

BASSMASTER CLASSIC: This year marks the last time the Bassmaster Classic will be held above the Mason-Dixon line -- it's moving to year-round warm water in 2006.