The Word on Burma

Q My wife and I are thinking of going to Burma next May. Can you suggest things to do and to avoid?

Kermit Netteburg

Silver Spring

A In Burma, you might not want to stray too far off the beaten path. Because of ongoing political flare-ups between the government and democratic reformers, travelers should stick to -- or near -- well-trod tourist routes. Though sometimes there isn't always safety in crowds: On May 7, a trio of bombs exploded in downtown Yangon. In addition, many struggle with the ethical question of whether tourism supports the ruling junta.

"There has been a lot of controversy over human rights violations," says Nancy O'Brien, Southeast Asia travel expert for iExplore, an online adventure travel company. "But as far as the way they treat tourists . . . as long as you don't join a protest and stay to the tourist sites, you won't feel a sense of danger." The U.S. State Department ( http://travel.state.gov/travel ) also issued a public announcement May 17 alerting American visitors in Burma to "exercise extreme caution in public places and be alert to their surroundings."

In addition, since the country is very religious and quite insular, travelers should be aware of local traditions that could offend the Burmese, such as wearing shoes inside holy shrines and touching a person's head. IExplore also warns visitors to not be alarmed if customs officials temporarily confiscate electronic equipment, such as cell phones, and advises travelers to use their possessions as currency (a T-shirt can be worth more than the kayt) and to ask about a curfew upon arrival.

Concerns aside, the Southeast Asian country has some extraordinary attractions, which are centered in a handful of cities and are rooted in Buddhist history: Yangon's Shwedagon pagoda and reclining Buddha, the temples and pagodas in Bagan, Mandalay's ancient city of Amarapura and Pindaya's Shweumin pagoda (6,000-plus Buddha sculptures in limestone mountain caves). For a break from temples, Lake Inle in the Taunggyi area is noted for its vegetable gardens that seemingly sprout from water. You can also tour the country via the Ayeyarwady River; the Orient-Express (800-524-2420, http://www.orient-express.com ; from $1,900 per person double), for example, offers three- to 11-night cruises aboard the Road to Mandalay.

You can travel alone, but you might have a richer experience with a small group or private tour guide. The Myanmar Tourism Promotion Board lists tour operators on its Web site ( http://www.myanmar-tourism.com ), while iExplore (800-IEXPLORE, http://www.iexplore.com ) runs a nine-day private tour (land-only price from $2,999 per person double).

We're interested in a vacation out west where we can see wild horses. Any suggestions?