Island Hopping by Boat and Bike

· The Cross Sound Ferry, which travels from New London to Orient Point, N.Y., takes about an hour and a half and costs $10.50 one way, plus $2 for a bike. Info: 860-443-5281, http://www.longislandferry.com .

· Shelter Island's North Ferry Co. (631-749-0139, http://www.northferry.com ) runs a small commuter boat that takes less than five minutes to sail from Greenport, N.Y., to the north end of the island; one-way fare for a passenger and a bike is $3.

· On the opposite end of the island, the South Ferry Co. (631-749-1200, http://www.southferry.com ) goes to North Haven, N.Y., for $3 one way for a rider and a bike; travel time is minutes.

· The Viking Fleet (631-668-5700, http://www.vikingfleet.com ) runs the Montauk-Block Island route only once a day, at 9 a.m. The trip takes 1 hour 45 minutes and costs $25 one way, plus $7 for a bike. Service ends Oct. 10.

· The Block Island Express's high-speed ferry, which sails to/from Block Island and New London until Columbus Day, takes just over an hour and costs $16, plus $10 for a bike. Info: 860-444-4624, http://www.goblockisland.com/home.htm .

BIKING: The paved bike lane around Long Island's North and South forks is basically flat and becomes congested only around the towns. Parts of Montauk and Block Island are hilly, but nothing a lower gear can't handle. Depending on how you plot the trip, maximum daily distance is about 20 miles, though you can add more with side trips -- or less, by upping your idle time.

If you don't want to lug your bike from Washington, New London's Terra Cyclery (154 Williams St., 860-443-7223, http://www.terracyclery.com ) will sell a used bike for $150, then buy it back for $100 up to a week later. Mystic Cycle Center (42 Williams Ave., 860-572-7433), about a half-hour away in Mystic, Conn., rents comfort mountain bikes for $20 a day or $40 for four days.

STAYING THERE: We overnighted in Shelter Island and Montauk (strongly advised, since you have to catch a morning ferry to Block Island). For accommodations in other towns along the Long Island portion, such as East Hampton and Sag Harbor, contact the Long Island Convention and Visitors Bureau (see Info below) or visit the Sag Harbor Chamber of Commerce's Web site, http://www.sagharborchamber.com .

Shelter Island's most elegant property is the Ram's Head Inn , a secluded 17-room Colonial tucked away on Ram's Island (no ferry, just a causeway). However, its in-town sister isn't so bad, either. The Chequit , up the hill from the north end ferry, is a Victorian inn decorated in summer brights. In-season rates for the Ram's Head start at $105 weekdays with shared bath; for the Chequit, $80 weekdays for the summer cottage (there are three buildings). Two-night minimum for weekends. Info: 631-749-0811 (Ram's Head), 631-749-0018 (Chequit), http://www.shelterislandinns.com http://.

In Montauk, a number of old-school beach motels with names like Beachcomber and the Breakers sit along Old Montauk Highway, just across the street from the ocean. The Shepherds Neck Inn (631-668-2105) is not on the beach but its related property, the Shepherds Beach Motel (631-668-6700), is. The inn's rooms are modest, but the lush gardens and pool make up for its lack of style. Inn rates from $79; motel rooms from $140 per night. Info: http://www.shepherdsneckinn.com .

To be in the center of Block Island's action, stay on or around Water Street, near Old Harbor (where the ferry to New London departs). The National Hotel (800-225-2449, http://www.blockislandhotels.com ) is a 45-room landmark property with a wrap-around porch/bar where you can be in the scene without ever vacating your seat. Doubles from $149. For the best ocean views -- and best croquet lawn -- the hilltop Spring House (Spring Street, 800-234- 9263, http://www.springhousehotel.com ) has hosted such notables as Mark Twain and Billy Joel; rooms from $250 in high season.

WHERE TO EAT: The Ram's Head Inn's restaurant on Shelter Island offers upper-crust dining without the airs. Dinner choices include pignoli-crusted flounder ($24), roasted saddle of rabbit ($23) and rainbow parpadelle ($18). Planet Bliss (24 N. Ferry Rd./Route 114, 631-749-0053) serves organic world cuisine, such as coconut Thai stew ($22), Caribbean jerk chicken ($21) and lobster ravioli ($20). In Amagansett, stop for a dosa (sour-dough crepe made of rice) or uttapa (a pancake-flat dosa) at the Hampton Chutney Co. (Main Street, Amagansett Square, 631-267-3131; $7-$12).