Lincoln Museum: All About Abe

But Richard Norton Smith, the library's executive director, batted back criticisms that the presentations are too Hollywood and schlocky for such serious subject matter. "There is an awful lot of information about a complicated election presented in that display," he said in an interview. "And it's presented in a way that a television-age audience can grasp."

The War Gallery is equally effective. On one wall, a map of the United States is projected, with the sites of the major battles of the war lighting up every few seconds. A running tally of the casualties on both the Union and the Confederate sides flashes on an "odometer of death" in the right-hand corner.

The theme of slavery emerges in most of the presentations, often in unpredictable ways. In the Union Theater's "Lincoln's Eyes," abolitionists are depicted criticizing Lincoln's stance on slavery as a political gesture that overlooked the practice in states such as Kentucky that were friendly to the Union. In another display, African American contemporaries of Lincoln offer different views on how they might fare after emancipation.

In the Whispering Gallery, an eerie corridor, the walls are covered with caricatures of Lincoln as a monkey, Satan or worse, all taken from newspapers soon after his 1860 election. Personal slurs about him, centering on his favoritism of "Negroes," are everywhere. That honest public portrayal alone makes the Abraham Lincoln Museum worth the trip.

GETTING THERE: There are no nonstop flights from the Washington area to Springfield, Ill. The cheapest option I found was a combination of US Airways and United flights on Orbitz.com from Reagan National via Cleveland for $317. I flew on American out of BWI to St. Louis for $180; from there, it was a two-hour drive to the museum.

LINCOLN MUSEUM: The Lincoln Museum (212 N. Sixth St.) is open daily except holidays. Hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day except Wednesdays, when it's open until 8:30 p.m. Admission is $7.50 for adults, $3.50 for children 15 and under. Details: 217-558-8844, http://www.alplm.org/ .

WHERE TO STAY: The three-star Renaissance Springfield Hotel (701 E. Adams St., 800-468-3571 or 217-544-8800, http://www.renaissance.com/ ), part of the Marriott chain, is within easy reach of the Lincoln Museum. The rooms are big and well furnished, and there is an indoor pool and a fitness center. Doubles start at $95 a night.

For travelers on a budget, the Signature Inn of Springfield (3090 Stevenson Dr., 800-822-5252 or 217-529-6611, http://www.signatureinn.com/ ), a 10-minute drive to the museum, is a decent choice. With nice beds, fridges and microwaves in all the rooms, a fitness center, an indoor pool and breakfast, it's two cuts above basic. Doubles start at $79 a night.

Bed-and-breakfast fans will like the quaintness of the 10-room Henry Mischler House (802 E. Edwards, 217-525-2660, http://www.mischlerhouse.com/ ). It's folksy but comfortable and only six blocks from the museum. Doubles start at $75 a night, including a filling Midwestern breakfast .

WHERE TO EAT: There's a good range of dining options within walking distance of the museum, including the Garden of Eat'N (115 N. Sixth St., 217-544-5446), a casual lunch spot across the street that serves fresh salads and sandwiches to order. For two, lunch is about $15.

The Tea Thyme Tea Room (1001 S. Sixth St., 217-528-3778) serves lunch, dinner and afternoon tea. For dinner, you can get tasty grilled chicken, salad and dessert for about $40 for two.

Capitol Steakhouse (620 S. First St., 217-744-3333, http://www.capitolsteakhouse.com/ ) also serves hearty dinners; a huge steak, baked potato and beer runs about $45 for two.

INFORMATION: For general info on visiting Springfield and tips on other Lincoln sights around town, contact the Springfield Convention & Visitors Bureau, 800-545-7300, http://www.visitspringfieldillinois.com/ .

-- Gary Lee