Raising the Bar

With temperatures rising, we broke for a couple of sun-free options, the dolphin show at the Aquatheatre and the hourly song-and-dance show at the Music Box. "Nerds: The Musical" is one of those high-energy productions common to theme parks and cruise ships that serve as full-employment programs for peppy young people. This is a slick, lively and air-conditioned revue about campus geeks vs. cool kids. The performers wear headset microphones that make them look as if they're working a drive-through window.

By midday, it was over 90 degrees and we plunged gratefully into Hershey's most innovative attractions: the water rides. In the Pioneer Frontier section, signs tell you the dress code is relaxed and bathing suits permitted (with locker rooms provided for the change).

For the hottest three hours of the day, we stayed happily drenched on Canyon River Rapids, a raft ride that leaves no soaking to chance; Tidal Force, a mega flume that ends in a million-gallon cloud of spray; and the Roller Soaker, a roller coaster that lets you dump water on willing guests below as they return fire with mounted water cannons.

Twilight came and the carnival lights threw a few neon shadows (Hersheypark is surprisingly dark at night). One day felt like just about enough, and we left at closing time with arms full of midway prizes and bellies full of Kisses. But I will say this: We left wanting -- and I'm truly sorry here -- S'more.

ESCAPE KEYS

GETTING THERE : Hersheypark is in Hershey, Pa., just east of Harrisburg about two hours from Washington. Take I-270 to Route 15 north at Frederick, Md. At Camp Hill, Pa., pick up Route 581 east to Harrisburg, where it becomes I-83 north. At Exit 46B, take Route 322 east to Hershey and follow the signs.

HERSHEYPARK : The park is open from May to September, on most weekdays from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and most weekends until 11 p.m. Daily admission is $39.95 for adults, $22.95 for kids aged 3 to 8 and seniors 55 to 69; kids 2 and under are free. Two-day plans start at $56.50 for adults and seniors and $40.50 for seniors and kids 3 to 8. (Tip: You can get into the park free for a few evening hours when you buy your next day's ticket after 7:30 p.m.) Hershey's Chocolate World , just outside the main gate, replaces the factory tour as the place to see how chocolate is made. A ride through the chocolate-making process is free; a 3-D movie in an interactive theater tells Milton Hershey's story in a refreshingly irreverent way and is well worth the $5 ticket ($4 for kids). Info: 800-437-7439, http://www.hersheypa.com .

STAYING THERE : Hershey and his wife had a thing for fine hotels, so they built one. The Hotel Hershey is a Mobil four-star luxury hotel within sight of the Ferris wheel, with plush rooms, a stunning Mediterranean-style lobby and spa where the staff will rub all sorts of chocolate on your person for big bucks. At $369 a room in the high season (and with a jacket-required dining room), it's a lot of hotel for a theme park. But the spa, multiple golf courses and beautiful views make it a destination unto itself. For slightly less, the Hershey Lodge is a sprawling complex with comfortable motel-style rooms, three swimming pools and a sports bar. Rooms during summer are $249 a night. Hershey's Highmeadow Campground offers campsites beginning at $35 and rustic cabins from $74.50 a night. All Hershey resorts include free shuttles to the park and entry at 9 a.m., admission to the Hershey Gardens and Museum and access to golf courses. Use Hershey phone and Web site above for all lodgings. There are non-Hershey options: a Days Inn (350 W. Chocolate Ave., 717-534-2162) with rooms starting at $210 and a Comfort Inn (1200 Mae St., 717-566-2050), also at $210.

EATING THERE : The buffet lunch at Hershey Lodge's Lebbie Lebkicher's was bountiful and ended with chocolate fondue and free Mr. Goodbars. With a coupon book we got at check-in, the kids ate free and adults paid $15 each. At night, we splashed out on the lovely terrace of the Hotel Hershey's Fountain Cafe , with margaritas, grilled red snapper, fusion pizza and a long wine list. Dinner for four came to just under $100.

INFO: Pennsylvania Tourism Office , 800-847-4872, http://www.visitpa.com .