Calif. Coast Drive

GETTING THERE: United flies nonstop to San Francisco from both Dulles and BWI, Independence Air flies nonstop from Dulles to San Francisco, and JetBlue flies nonstop from Dulles to Oakland. Numerous carriers operate connecting flights. Round-trip fares from Washington typically start at about $350, but sale fares can drop as low as $200.

GETTING AROUND: Point Reyes Station is about a one-hour drive from the San Francisco area; Mendocino is just over three hours. While there is some limited public transportation, most travelers will want to rent a car.

WHERE TO STAY:

· In Point Reyes:

The Point Reyes Seashore Lodge (10021 Coastal Hwy., Olema, 415-663-9000, http://www.pointreyesseashore.com/ ) is an updated, 21-room country-style lodge with romantic gardens and a path leading into Point Reyes Park. Doubles (many with fireplaces and whirlpool tubs) begin at $135 a night, including continental breakfast; the two private cottages on the grounds, each with hot tub, run $295.

Anns View on Tomales Bay (19980 Hwy. 1, Marshall, 415-663-9144, http://www.annsview.com/ ) sits above the bay and has just two suites, both of which overlook the water. They go for $225 and $275.

Bar-Or Ranch (11925 Hwy. 1, Point Reyes Station, 415-663-9596, http://www.bar-or.com/ ) is a working ranch, with horses and the feel of an Israeli kibbutz. Cottages range from $175 to $400 per night, including an organic continental breakfast. Ours, which sleeps four adults, cost $300 per night.

More than a dozen inns and about a dozen companies renting cottages are listed through Point Reyes Lodging, 800-539-1872, http://www.ptreyes.com/ .

· Around Mendocino:

Heritage House (5200 N. Hwy. 1, Little River, about five miles outside Mendocino, 800-235-5885, http://www.heritagehouseinn.com/ ) sits on 37 acres of lovely gardens above the ocean. The main, vine-covered hotel with a gourmet restaurant was built in 1877 and is surrounded by cottages. A double room including breakfast begins at $125 off season (November through March) and $175 during peak season.

Dennen's Victorian Farmhouse (7001 N. Hwy.1, 800-264-4723, http://www.victorianfarmhouse.com/ ) was built in 1877 and is surrounded by two acres of land with gardens. It's a short walk to Buckhorn Cove, a rocky beach filled with tide pools, and two miles from downtown Mendocino. Rates for a double, including breakfast served in your room, range from $135 to $235 a night.

Stanford Inn by the Sea & Spa (Highway 1 at Comptche-Ukiah Road, 800-331-8884, http://www.stanfordinn.com/ ) is a luxurious romantic inn on 10 acres that happens to have llamas, a spa, an organic garden and great views of the Mendocino coast and Big River. Rooms start at $269 a night.