Turning Over a New Leaf

GETTING THERE: Flights to Denver, a 3 1/2 -hour drive, are less expensive, from $182 (on Northwest from Dulles). Colorado Springs is an hour closer to Salida, but flights are more expensive, starting at $275 (on Northwest from Reagan National).

WHERE TO STAY: The six-room River Run Inn (800-385-6925, http://www.riverruninn.com/ ), just outside Salida, was built on a former 1892 working farm for the indigent and has views of the Rockies and the Arkansas River. Doubles run $100 to $125 per night, including breakfast. Add wine, cheese or chocolate, and flowers for $50. Salida also has more than a dozen motels; see http://www.coloradoheadwaters.com/ .

DON'T MISS: The Collegiate Peaks . Between the 14,000-foot Princeton and Yale mountains lies one of Colorado's most aspen-filled valleys.

INFO: Colorado's Headwaters of Adventure ( http://www.coloradoheadwaters.com/ ). Heart of the Rockies Chamber of Commerce (877-772-5432, http://www.salidachamber.org/ ). Colorado.com ( http://www.colorado.com/ ).

Ozark, Ark.

PERFECT FOR: Crowd dodgers; anyone who likes their foliage more low-key, especially late in the season.

WHAT'S THERE: With the Ozark National Forest about 10 miles to the north, the Ouachita National Forest 45 miles to the south, and the Arkansas River running alongside it, Ozark (population 3,525) is an ideal place to park.

PEAK COLOR: Late October

GETTING THERE: Little Rock, about 140 miles to the east of Ozark via Interstate 40, is served by at least four carriers. Flights start at $240 (US Airways from BWI).

WHERE TO STAY: Mulberry River Mountain Ranch , formerly Spirit Mountain Lodge (on Highway 23, 866-667-1919, http://www.spiritmountainlodge.com/ ), 16 miles north of Ozark, is surrounded by the Ozark National Forest. The ranch has seven cabins, all but one with a kitchen, and an eight-bedroom lodge for rent. Cabins run from $95 to $120; the lodge starts at $375. Weekends generally require a two-night minimum.

DON'T MISS: Frontier Fest , Oct. 22-23 at Fort Smith National Historic Site (479-783-3961, http://www.nps.gov/fosm ), is a free event harking back to the tumultuous period of westward expansion, with reenactments, storytelling and demonstrations of Native American culture. The free Downtown Fall Festival & Chili Cookoff on Oct. 29 in Russellville, about 60 miles east of Ozark, is an old-fashioned street festival with entertainment, games and lots to eat. Details: 479-967-1437, http://www.discoverrussellville.org/ .

INFO: Tri-Peaks Tourist Association (800-561-6508, http://www.arvtripeaks.com/ ). City of Ozark ( http://www.ozarkarkansas.com/ ).