Cook With Seitan

Caramelization, it turns out, is one of the trade tricks for making animal-free products taste meaty. At least, it is for a self-described "stealth vegan" business in Wheaton. "I use tomatoes as caramelizing agents because meat caramelizes," says Carrie Megginson, kitchen manager of Gail's Vegetarian Catering (11307 Elkin St., Wheaton, 301-949-7602, http://www.gailsvegetarian.com/ ). "I try to make things do what meat does."

By "things," Megginson mostly means seitan , the Japanese word (pronounced say-tahn) for cooked wheat protein. While most restaurants that offer faux meat tend to be Asian, Gail's specializes in the European cuisine of the staff's training. The recipe she gave us is easy to make, and this pot roast benefits from a day of rest before eating. That way, the flavors develop, becoming more robust. Perfect for supper after a walk through autumn woods.

Gail's Seitan Pot Roast

*1 pound seitan

1 tablespoon unrefined corn oil

3 medium onions, peeled, halved and sliced thin

3 large carrots, peeled and cut in 1/2 -inch slices

3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut in 3/4 -inch cubes

6 cups vegetable stock

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped or grated

*3 inches kombu (Japanese kelp in strips), roughly chopped or cut into smaller strips to be removed before serving